Pinched seat post, worth the trouble?
09-26-22, 01:05 PM
#1
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Pinched seat tube, worth the trouble?
Raleigh TEAM 853 frame set, just about my size, would be a bit of a winter project, but one glaring problem....
Seller says it's just deformed and not cracked. I sort of know him and he's proven to be reliable in the past.
In this case I have my doubts though and it would be half a day's worth of traveling to go look at it in person.
Paint is not a problem, would strip and respray
Seller says it's just deformed and not cracked. I sort of know him and he's proven to be reliable in the past.
In this case I have my doubts though and it would be half a day's worth of traveling to go look at it in person.
Paint is not a problem, would strip and respray
Last edited by Mackers; 09-26-22 at 01:06 PM. Reason: Seat tube, dammit!
09-26-22, 02:25 PM
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Given that it’s “just about” your size and a long trip away, I’d probably pass. If it were close and I was interested I’d look at it in person to assess the damage.
09-27-22, 03:26 PM
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Is that Reynolds 853 steel, or something else?
I'm having troubles orienting your photo. How far down is the pinch in the seattube?
If the flaw is down in the middle of the seattube, you could probably just fill it and paint over. Possibly find something to press it back out, but not necessarily. Silver Braze?
If the flaw is near the top, then you'll have troubles with your seatpost unless you can actually get the tube pushed back round before repairing.
I'm having troubles orienting your photo. How far down is the pinch in the seattube?
If the flaw is down in the middle of the seattube, you could probably just fill it and paint over. Possibly find something to press it back out, but not necessarily. Silver Braze?
If the flaw is near the top, then you'll have troubles with your seatpost unless you can actually get the tube pushed back round before repairing.
09-27-22, 04:14 PM
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Unless getting that particular frame has special meaning, pass. I rarely, if ever, spend money and then effort (meaning time and probably more money) on a frame that has suffered structural damage (structural damage = dented, bent or cracked - serious rust pitting also falls into the pass category). Of course, that is just me.
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09-27-22, 04:18 PM
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All depends on the cost, selling price...
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09-28-22, 12:33 AM
#6
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$50, probably worth it for the fork alone.
Reynolds 853 tubing which is why when the front derailleur clamp was overtightened it pinched the tube.
All academic now, decided to let it be.
Reynolds 853 tubing which is why when the front derailleur clamp was overtightened it pinched the tube.
All academic now, decided to let it be.
09-28-22, 01:46 AM
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Ahh... down at the derailleur mount. That is a moderate stress area. But, fill it with your silver solder.
Then braze one of these onto the frame. No more clamps.
Then braze one of these onto the frame. No more clamps.
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09-28-22, 10:59 AM
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boils down to how many hours and dollars you're willing to give on this. if the answer is "limited" then keep walking. if the answer is "I'm looking for a project and I don't mind spending time and money" then have at it. but I don't think you've really found anything especially special.
09-28-22, 12:15 PM
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I picked up a Pro Miyata from a forumite I didn't know with rust, paint issues and almost given, other issues for probably too much money last summer. His photos were excellent so only issues that were well hidden and he would not have known yet were there.
And? I got a frame that is true, stiff, fits like a dream, rides like the very best of the mid-80s race bikes and is a joy! (Well the fork blades are spread 5mm. Too stiff for an easy squeeze; like good high quality tubing. I'll address them when I set up a jig and decide to get real in some future year. The seat pin threads stripped the second or third seat height adjust. That rust. A very serviceable and not bad looking SS Ace Hardware bolt and nut is now doing the job.
The bike will never look the part it should for what I paid. But - I got a dream ride, a bike that takes me back to the bike I raced and loved, only a decade later and better. Now set up with almost the wheels I trained and club raced. Gel330s and Conti 22mm Giros. (Then it was Arc en Ciels and Vittoria (but branded otherwise) 300g cottons.) Small slice of heaven.
And for those who care - I believe this was a Superbe equipped bike. FD, RD and unmarked brakes came with it but were so rusted they are a future project. Put on some almost NOS Cyclone brakes, an old Cyclone RD and newish Cyclone FD. (The brakes because they are so short. And with the pads pushed all the way up, fit is perfect. Did I say mid '80s race? Yup, tires are that close! FD spanning a 52-42-30 Campy crankset works perfect. RD didn't have enough spring to get the small cog so I wrapped bungie cord around the parallelogram. Blue to match the paint and it works perfect! I never think about it and wouldn't mention it but I noticed it yesterday moving the bike. Hubs - not perfect but they work just fine. Rear is a probably Taiwan OEM 7-speed FW. Saches 12-26. (I have a bunch of nicer hubs but finding rears with straight axles is a challenge!) Front is an older Campy low flange. Satin finish, no oil cap so it may be a Tipo. Sapim 2.0-1.6 DB, 2.0-1.8 RR, 3X.
And? I got a frame that is true, stiff, fits like a dream, rides like the very best of the mid-80s race bikes and is a joy! (Well the fork blades are spread 5mm. Too stiff for an easy squeeze; like good high quality tubing. I'll address them when I set up a jig and decide to get real in some future year. The seat pin threads stripped the second or third seat height adjust. That rust. A very serviceable and not bad looking SS Ace Hardware bolt and nut is now doing the job.
The bike will never look the part it should for what I paid. But - I got a dream ride, a bike that takes me back to the bike I raced and loved, only a decade later and better. Now set up with almost the wheels I trained and club raced. Gel330s and Conti 22mm Giros. (Then it was Arc en Ciels and Vittoria (but branded otherwise) 300g cottons.) Small slice of heaven.
And for those who care - I believe this was a Superbe equipped bike. FD, RD and unmarked brakes came with it but were so rusted they are a future project. Put on some almost NOS Cyclone brakes, an old Cyclone RD and newish Cyclone FD. (The brakes because they are so short. And with the pads pushed all the way up, fit is perfect. Did I say mid '80s race? Yup, tires are that close! FD spanning a 52-42-30 Campy crankset works perfect. RD didn't have enough spring to get the small cog so I wrapped bungie cord around the parallelogram. Blue to match the paint and it works perfect! I never think about it and wouldn't mention it but I noticed it yesterday moving the bike. Hubs - not perfect but they work just fine. Rear is a probably Taiwan OEM 7-speed FW. Saches 12-26. (I have a bunch of nicer hubs but finding rears with straight axles is a challenge!) Front is an older Campy low flange. Satin finish, no oil cap so it may be a Tipo. Sapim 2.0-1.6 DB, 2.0-1.8 RR, 3X.
