Tired of breaking spokes
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#52
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I remember Clydesdale was a common category in MTB racing in the early ‘90s, but I know there are threads here about the genesis of the term if anyone is interested in that kind of history.
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I presume Clydesdale is a reference to the big horses. If so I have no problem being called one of those, they are huge, strong, get the job done horses. You don't call a pony in to do a job that needs strength. A mate of mine breeds clydes for show, but mostly for the love of the big horses.
Another 30ks yesterday and still no broken spoke, this is good news
Another 30ks yesterday and still no broken spoke, this is good news
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#54
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I presume Clydesdale is a reference to the big horses. If so I have no problem being called one of those, they are huge, strong, get the job done horses. You don't call a pony in to do a job that needs strength. A mate of mine breeds clydes for show, but mostly for the love of the big horses.
Another 30ks yesterday and still no broken spoke, this is good news
Another 30ks yesterday and still no broken spoke, this is good news
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Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
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More minor updates: the better LBS supplied a prebuilt WB Zac19 36h wheel and new rotor from JBL. I assembled it all myself and still have some minor adjusting to do before riding; the disc brake is now rubbing a little and shifting is off just a scooch, so I think there's some fractional difference in the hub/QR/wheel setup compared to the prior wheel.
Anyway, I'm glad I took this group's advice and made the first step into a truing stand and tension gauge. Not only did I do another 15mi or so on urban streets without issue on my repaired "bad" wheel, but I found two of the spokes on the new wheel were quite out of tension. Cassette side spokes were nearly all at 25 +/- 1 deflection, but the rotor side had a couple at 8-10, a couple at <15, and the rest at 15-20. I'm hoping I averted future frustration by bringing them all up to tension.
Frankly, I'm tempted to put my "bad" wheel back on to see how long my first real truing attempt lasts.
Hopefully my broken spoke days are behind me and I can focus on riding. Now, back to daydreaming about bike touring and obsessing over bike packing setups...
Anyway, I'm glad I took this group's advice and made the first step into a truing stand and tension gauge. Not only did I do another 15mi or so on urban streets without issue on my repaired "bad" wheel, but I found two of the spokes on the new wheel were quite out of tension. Cassette side spokes were nearly all at 25 +/- 1 deflection, but the rotor side had a couple at 8-10, a couple at <15, and the rest at 15-20. I'm hoping I averted future frustration by bringing them all up to tension.
Frankly, I'm tempted to put my "bad" wheel back on to see how long my first real truing attempt lasts.
Hopefully my broken spoke days are behind me and I can focus on riding. Now, back to daydreaming about bike touring and obsessing over bike packing setups...
#57
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Hi all, 46yo, 280lb at 6' but not super-hideously unfit, just mostly. Was a regular weekend warrior MTB rider at 230-ish lbs throughout my 30s. These days, trying to get a few 60-90 minute rides per week on a Cannondale Quick-Disk 5 "fitness" bike in the endless quest to lose the 70+ lbs my doc and I want to see gone.
Problem is, I keep breaking spokes on the rear wheel. Just had a shop custom build me a rear wheel, and after maybe 50 miles it's already shot. Everything else about the bike seems to have no problem with my fatness and I quite enjoy the bike's fit and feel. Zero spokes ever broken on the front wheel.
I'm tired of it. Certainly there are more robust wheel options, aren't there? Double wall, titanium spokes...the shops have recommended these incremental changes and we've tried some, but it hasn't worked. I think the shop mechanics have a hard time thinking outside the box of a 140lb road rider obsessed with ounces and riding on smooth roads. I'm just a fatso trying to run errands and climb a few hills on imperfect urban asphalt. I don't care if I'm riding a mullet or the wheel adds a couple pounds or looks funny. I just want a reliable ride.
The bike currently has 32h wheels. I've read that 36 or 40h wheels are of course stronger, but is it genuinely significant enough to make a difference? I'd hate to go to 36 and find I'm only getting a little more time between failures.
Any suggestions? Maybe I should give up on the stock "fitness" style bikes and get a 29" hardtail MTB, lock the fork, and put on slicks? Or invest in something like a Surly Long Haul Trucker? Or?
I also can't help but think bigger tires will reduce road impacts (WTB 700x32cm are on it now) but a couple mechanics have dismissed that idea as making a real difference.
Problem is, I keep breaking spokes on the rear wheel. Just had a shop custom build me a rear wheel, and after maybe 50 miles it's already shot. Everything else about the bike seems to have no problem with my fatness and I quite enjoy the bike's fit and feel. Zero spokes ever broken on the front wheel.
I'm tired of it. Certainly there are more robust wheel options, aren't there? Double wall, titanium spokes...the shops have recommended these incremental changes and we've tried some, but it hasn't worked. I think the shop mechanics have a hard time thinking outside the box of a 140lb road rider obsessed with ounces and riding on smooth roads. I'm just a fatso trying to run errands and climb a few hills on imperfect urban asphalt. I don't care if I'm riding a mullet or the wheel adds a couple pounds or looks funny. I just want a reliable ride.
The bike currently has 32h wheels. I've read that 36 or 40h wheels are of course stronger, but is it genuinely significant enough to make a difference? I'd hate to go to 36 and find I'm only getting a little more time between failures.
Any suggestions? Maybe I should give up on the stock "fitness" style bikes and get a 29" hardtail MTB, lock the fork, and put on slicks? Or invest in something like a Surly Long Haul Trucker? Or?
I also can't help but think bigger tires will reduce road impacts (WTB 700x32cm are on it now) but a couple mechanics have dismissed that idea as making a real difference.
Im running 48s chuckers on phil wood tandem disc hubs.
As i got sick of breaking spokes amd walking...
Held for ~10 years...
#58
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My "new" 36 spoke wheel is still good after a few weeks of daily urban (bad pavement) rides, so I think it really came down to tensioning and truing somewhat properly (i.e. myself!) and fatter tires.
During my spoke frustrations I overhauled a craigslist 90's Trek MTB that has what must be original wheels and spokes, and I put fat slicks on it and brought all the spokes into tension (very carefully!). That carried my fat ass just fine for a few brief rides. So at least now I have a plan B if the new wheel on the Cannondale fails.
For my personal situation and usage, a folding bike is the dream, but I'll save that for a "clydesdale folders" thread...
#59
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Hi all, 46yo, 280lb at 6' ..
Problem is, I keep breaking spokes on the rear wheel. Just had a shop custom build me a rear wheel, and after maybe 50 miles it's already shot. Everything else about the bike seems to have no problem with my fatness and I quite enjoy the bike's fit and feel. Zero spokes ever broken on the front wheel.
Problem is, I keep breaking spokes on the rear wheel. Just had a shop custom build me a rear wheel, and after maybe 50 miles it's already shot. Everything else about the bike seems to have no problem with my fatness and I quite enjoy the bike's fit and feel. Zero spokes ever broken on the front wheel.
Since putting the bike together, I've weighed between 240 and 280. Been at 250 for the past few years. I've ridden time trials on this bike, taken it on gravel roads, and ridden it several thousand miles. I haven't had a single spoke break.
I did end up using cloth rim strip tape instead of hard plastic strips, after 3 consecutive flats on my first two longer rides.
#60
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Have had one wheelset professionally built, by R&E Cycles (Rodriguez, in Seattle WA). Exceptionally strong, silent. I fully expect them to last the life of the bike, so long as I do my part. Velocity CliffHanger rims, White Industries MI5 hubs, DT Swiss Champion 14g spokes, DT Swiss brass nipples, riding on ReneHerse Rat Trap Pass 26x2.3" tires.
Last edited by Clyde1820; 07-06-22 at 08:30 AM. Reason: links
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bajaking , are the new wheels still working out well?
BTW, what rims, spokes, nipples and tires are you running on those new wheels?
BTW, what rims, spokes, nipples and tires are you running on those new wheels?