"frame snap"
#2
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That frame was in an accident a long time ago.
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#4
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... or frontal collision. (Been there ... done that -- classic "I didn't see him" left cross.) Had it straightened, rode it a few more years until the downtube failed very much as depicted in this thread, right behind the butting on the downtube in my case. Mine didn't rupture all the way, but a crack started to expand as I was climbing a hill. I rode home gently and retired the frame.
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Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
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#5
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Yeah, those Suntour ratchet downtube shfters are so hard to push in the non-ratcheting direction that I can see this happening.
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#6
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Yeah, I front-ended a Moto. Same damage. Rode it another 8,000 miles and noticed the downtube cracking. Being young and dumb, I kept riding it until the crack got half way around the tube. Then it was tossed.
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Curb or sewer grate
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Judging by the top tube wrinkle, I would say front ended .
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This looks like an overheated tube combined with a front end impactor it's been ridden a lot since the impact.
Last edited by T-Mar; 11-27-22 at 08:02 AM.
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Was the advert proclaiming how dangerous steel frames are?
#13
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Makes it easier to remove the awesome shifters!
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I rear-ended a city bus once at about 20 mph (looked down at the wrong time). But I was riding a Schwinn Varsity, so I was fortunate the bus wasn't damaged so badly that it was undriveable. Didn't even bend the Murican-made steel rims or the Chicago-forged steel frame.
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... or frontal collision. (Been there ... done that -- classic "I didn't see him" left cross.) Had it straightened, rode it a few more years until the downtube failed very much as depicted in this thread, right behind the butting on the downtube in my case. Mine didn't rupture all the way, but a crack started to expand as I was climbing a hill. I rode home gently and retired the frame.
#16
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#17
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Yeah, that DT didn't have a chance after that Power Ratchet was clamped and forced applied. ('Bout to go for a ride on my old 531 bike with those same shifters. Making me nervous.)
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That is precisely what I love about less than high end steel. Yes, it fails. Usually from abuse. But so often it does so in a rather gentle manner unless you are completely oblivious. I've ridden at least 5 partially or completely broken steel frames home. My one aluminum experience was poor. No cracks yet in my two (steel forked) ti bikes. No CF yet save some bar plugs.
Best, Ben
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That is precisely what I love about less than high end steel. Yes, it fails. Usually from abuse. But so often it does so in a rather gentle manner unless you are completely oblivious. I've ridden at least 5 partially or completely broken steel frames home. My one aluminum experience was poor. No cracks yet in my two (steel forked) ti bikes. No CF yet save some bar plugs.
#20
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I winced when I scrolled down and saw the crack.
Looks like someone had a pliers on the tubing, too.
Looks like someone had a pliers on the tubing, too.
Last edited by Bad Lag; 11-27-22 at 07:55 PM.
#21
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#22
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Yes, but you made one of the bus riders spill their macchiato.
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#24
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Yeah. I was being generic when I said "frames". One of those breaks was a fork blade that cracked in two mid blade (a little above the bolt securing the LowRider rack). And the original fork on my avatar bike where we broke the metallurgy "rules" and I nearly paid. (We - myself with my crown choice, the builder and I - deciding to nickle plate the fork, the builder - who found some sweet SL blades instead of the 531 I was thinking; I agreed to it and the plater - who knew full well high strength steel MUST be heat treated after nickle plate, didn't and said nothing. He had the oven and we would have happily coughed up the $60 if he'd opened his mouth.)
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Isn't that a spoiler to separate air flow? (Underneath where we cannot see in that photo is an air scoop to keep that DT cool at high speeds. Without that scoop, the duct tape will just become a sticky mess after the DT heats up.)