Don't Flame Me: READ THE FIRST AND HIGHLIGHTED SENTENCES
#1
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Don't Flame Me: READ THE FIRST AND HIGHLIGHTED SENTENCES
I KNOW THAT IT'S NOT RECOMMENDED BY THE COMPANY BUT...
I have a Kuat Sherpa 2.0 tray style hitch rack that I am very happy with. Most of my bikes don't have fenders and I've had no problems. I do however have three bikes with fenders. TWO OF THE FENDERED BIKES ARE STEEL AND THE OTHER IS ALUMINUM. I understand that Kuat states that the wheel hook should be close to the brakes or fork. The fenders (Planet Bike) on my other bikes come to the top of my front wheel and when I've mounted the bikes with the hook at the end of the fender, it seems to hold the bike very well and appears to be sturdy. Since the Sherpa has a front wheel cup that cradles the back of the front wheel, I don't see a problem, particularly if I add a Velcro retention strap around the bottom of the rim. I have also found that I can attach the hook to fit over the top tube and the bike is also held in a sturdy fashion. Most of the "big" name rack manufacturers (Thule, Saris, Yakima, Swagman, Hollywood, etc.) have models that attach by the frame, so why would this be a problem with the Kuat? Again, touching the frame would only occur with non-carbon bikes and I'd use a pad to prevent major scratches.
Has anyone tried either of the two methods I described above with fendered bikes?
I have a Kuat Sherpa 2.0 tray style hitch rack that I am very happy with. Most of my bikes don't have fenders and I've had no problems. I do however have three bikes with fenders. TWO OF THE FENDERED BIKES ARE STEEL AND THE OTHER IS ALUMINUM. I understand that Kuat states that the wheel hook should be close to the brakes or fork. The fenders (Planet Bike) on my other bikes come to the top of my front wheel and when I've mounted the bikes with the hook at the end of the fender, it seems to hold the bike very well and appears to be sturdy. Since the Sherpa has a front wheel cup that cradles the back of the front wheel, I don't see a problem, particularly if I add a Velcro retention strap around the bottom of the rim. I have also found that I can attach the hook to fit over the top tube and the bike is also held in a sturdy fashion. Most of the "big" name rack manufacturers (Thule, Saris, Yakima, Swagman, Hollywood, etc.) have models that attach by the frame, so why would this be a problem with the Kuat? Again, touching the frame would only occur with non-carbon bikes and I'd use a pad to prevent major scratches.
Has anyone tried either of the two methods I described above with fendered bikes?
#2
Senior Member
When we sell a tray rack like what you have we always demonstrate the proper way to set the "wheel hook" so that it clamps down on the wheel as close to the fork as possible. We have seen what happens when that advice and manufacturers instruction is not followed.
Seems to me using the "wheel hook" to clamp down on the frame is a better option than not clamping down on the front wheel correctly. The only way to know for sure is to try it and find out.
Seems to me using the "wheel hook" to clamp down on the frame is a better option than not clamping down on the front wheel correctly. The only way to know for sure is to try it and find out.
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Reading the reply avoe and thinking about how the hook works.... If the hook is too far forward (away from the fork) it is not "locked" in place and the diameter, well, probably chord, of the wheel gets narrower and the hook can slip off the wheel. At the fork, the hook is on the wheel below the high point of the curve and cannot slip off the wheel. And I'm not explaining it and without diagrams, well....
Having just used my Kuat for the first time in a few years I was really careful securing that hook. A friend who purchased one at the same time, returned it since she has fenders on her bike.
I guess one could jury-rig something to strap the hook bar to the stem or top tube to make sure it cannot slip forward off the wheel.
Having just used my Kuat for the first time in a few years I was really careful securing that hook. A friend who purchased one at the same time, returned it since she has fenders on her bike.
I guess one could jury-rig something to strap the hook bar to the stem or top tube to make sure it cannot slip forward off the wheel.
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OP: I have a Thule xt Pro 2 rack (or something like that - can't recall the exact name) that works the same way, and I also have a couple bikes with fenders.
First, I think it is best to use such a rack with a fendered bike only when necessary, since they are not really designed to go together.
Second, here is what I do: I use a piece of cylindrical foam which originally came on a new bike's frame for protection; any shop can give you loads of this stuff, as it comes on pretty much every boxed new bike they receive. (A good alternative would be pipe insulation, if you have any of that laying around.) I use a piece that is about 5" long, and it has a slit down the long dimension. I just slide it under the front fender (so, it's lodged between the fender and the tire), then I position the rack's clamp where it usually goes -- just where the mfr recommends. The padding, placed under the fender, keeps the fender from being bent down toward the tire, while still allowing the clamp to do its job.
If that isn't clear, let me know and I will make (and post) a photo.
First, I think it is best to use such a rack with a fendered bike only when necessary, since they are not really designed to go together.
Second, here is what I do: I use a piece of cylindrical foam which originally came on a new bike's frame for protection; any shop can give you loads of this stuff, as it comes on pretty much every boxed new bike they receive. (A good alternative would be pipe insulation, if you have any of that laying around.) I use a piece that is about 5" long, and it has a slit down the long dimension. I just slide it under the front fender (so, it's lodged between the fender and the tire), then I position the rack's clamp where it usually goes -- just where the mfr recommends. The padding, placed under the fender, keeps the fender from being bent down toward the tire, while still allowing the clamp to do its job.
If that isn't clear, let me know and I will make (and post) a photo.
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I clamp carbon, steel, aluminum, and magnesium framed bikes on my thule hitch mount rack. I also sometimes add a bungie type cord for extra security.
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I don't flame people. I just ignore the posts that I consider offensive.
Your question is a good one. In some climates, we cannot ride much without fenders.
Your question is a good one. In some climates, we cannot ride much without fenders.
#7
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Thank you all for your responses. Yes, Koyote, your comment was clear and I'll look into it.
Take care and be well.
Take care and be well.
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OTOH, I have good luck with SKS detachable fenders if you want to approach the problem from the other direction.
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I think what you are suggesting (clamping the wheel in front of the fender and using a strap at the bottom of the wheel) will work fine IF you use a proper strap (i.e., not Velcro).
heck it may even be fine without the strap, but I would not want to find out.
Long of the short is that in your situation, I would do exactly what you are thinking, and would not worry about it.
heck it may even be fine without the strap, but I would not want to find out.
Long of the short is that in your situation, I would do exactly what you are thinking, and would not worry about it.
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I just followed the directions in the thread title.
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Well-constructed sentences. Concise, like the instructions themselves.
Lacking context perhaps.
Lacking context perhaps.
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A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera