Upgrading rigid fork on vintage Trek MTB
12-04-21, 08:31 PM
#26
Newbie
Thread Starter
I used a Cane Creek 40 EC34 on my Trek 970, but you can use a cheaper one from another mfg. You do need an external cup threadless headset.
Personally I like a sealed cartridge headset for a mountain bike for the the amount of impact it will need to absorb, even with a suspension fork.
The specs for the CC40 EC34 are:
Steerer Tube OD: 28.6mm (1-1/8”)
Upper head tube ID: 33.95mm
Lower head tube ID: 33.95mm
Fork crown seat OD: 30.015mm
For you stack height is not important and it is probably better with a stack height on the high side for replacements down the road. The CC40 stack height is 28mm
Once you get the headset installed, an important piece of setting up your bike will be the handlebar height. It will depend on the amount of spacers you use. I've heard a rule of thumb of a max of 40mm, which is what I'm running on my 970. But I imagine you'll find people running more spacers, especially with a 1-1/8" steel steerer tube.
You do have to get the bar height where you want it because once you cut the steerer, that is what you are stuck with; unless you go to a riser handlebar. Some people run 5mm-10mm spacer on top of the steerer until they are sure they have the height dialed incorrectly.
John
Personally I like a sealed cartridge headset for a mountain bike for the the amount of impact it will need to absorb, even with a suspension fork.
The specs for the CC40 EC34 are:
Steerer Tube OD: 28.6mm (1-1/8”)
Upper head tube ID: 33.95mm
Lower head tube ID: 33.95mm
Fork crown seat OD: 30.015mm
For you stack height is not important and it is probably better with a stack height on the high side for replacements down the road. The CC40 stack height is 28mm
Once you get the headset installed, an important piece of setting up your bike will be the handlebar height. It will depend on the amount of spacers you use. I've heard a rule of thumb of a max of 40mm, which is what I'm running on my 970. But I imagine you'll find people running more spacers, especially with a 1-1/8" steel steerer tube.
You do have to get the bar height where you want it because once you cut the steerer, that is what you are stuck with; unless you go to a riser handlebar. Some people run 5mm-10mm spacer on top of the steerer until they are sure they have the height dialed incorrectly.
John
John, Just wanted to say thanks for your help. Took the bike with new fork out today and it was glorious. Thanks again!!
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12-04-21, 10:58 PM
#27
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Mission Viejo
Posts: 5,806
Bikes: 1986 Cannondale SR400 (Flat bar commuter), 1988 Cannondale Criterium XTR, 1992 Serotta T-Max, 1995 Trek 970
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Bike looks great. Glad it worked out for you.
John
John
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