richas

Older Giant Propel with original wheels. Crashed in a circuit race, rear wheel was was hit/run-over by someone behind me. I have since found a set of Zipps which, after some effort, are on the bike. Since I had the trueing stand out I thought I would try to true the bent wheel. These wheel are AL rim brake with carbon fairings. Upon removing the rim tape I see a lot of corrosion around the spoke holes (Inside the rim, not the carbon exit hole. The spoke pull on the carbon, not the aluminum.

Anyone see an issue with cleaning the corrosion and using the wheel as an emergency spare? (Assuming it trues up ok)

Shining a light into the adjustment holes I don't see corrosion on the spoke heads. I haven't tried adjusting them as I don't have the spoke tool for recessed adjusters yet.

Rich


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Iride01 

I've ridden much worse.

It's more about whether you are okay with it than whether any of us are okay with it. We all have differing limits to things we perceive as possible safety issues and how much risk we will assume.

If when you true it your spoke tensions in places are really high to make it true, then that might be a concern for how long it'll go without breaking a spoke.

Narrow rim by todays standards I think. But it'll be fine for any size tire you can fit in that frame. A 28mm or bigger might bulge out a lot on the sides and not be as aero as it should be for that rim. But maybe the external width is more than I'm imagining.

maddog34

the low spoke count of that wheel tells me that the RIM must be true and the SPOKES only hold the rim in alignment with the hub... Depending on the AMOUNT of deflection from the crash, using extra tension to pull the rim back into true to the hub may be next to Impossible.

even an all aluminum Double Wall rim with 32 or 36 spokes can be Very Difficult to pull into true using only spoke tension, and the tensions around the wheel will never be close to equal.

Bent rim + Low spoke count = loosen ALL the spokes, then try to flatten the rim BEFORE re-tightening the spokes.
I De-lace then try to flatten, then re-lace or REPLACE the rim

Will you race it?... REPLACE it !
nothing hurts more than losing before you start.

FBinNY 

This is a design "problem" common to rims of this type.

I put "problem" in quotes because it really doesn't matter in any meaningful way.

It happens because rims are anodized before being drilled, leaving the edges of holes unprotected on the finished rim. Then water enters at the spoke hole, and ends up trapped by rhe rim tape, setting up what you now see.

This could be prevented with changes to design or process, but since it doesn't matter, makers feel it doesn't warrant higher costs.

richas

Sorry for the delay and thanks all for the input. Definitely won't race this wheel, I thought I would see if I could true before tossing it.

I will take maddog34's advice and loosen the spokes to see how bad the bend is.

Rich