sloar 

First, are my cables too high? Second, I’m trying to decide on a location for a water bottle cage. Right now I’m leaning towards the seattube. But I hate clamping on to the frame. Thanks.

SJX426 

Yes. I try to minimize the radius without having excess housing. I think you could go shorter.
P1050305 (2) on Flickr

rccardr 

Agreed,too long by…inches.
Get a Two Fish bottle holder, won’t damage the paint.

SurferRosa

When I look at my bikes' non-aero routing above the bars, they appear minimal, sleek, perfectly rounded. But when I look at pics, they look a tiny bit too long. '72 Torpado:


.
I like VO's Retro cage and their aluminum cage clamps on the down tube. File/sand the edges of the clamps so they don't scratch. Same bike, now with the cage mounted:


.

easyupbug 

Yes, the gap on your non-aero hood is at the back of the housing hole which indicates too long. I tried one bottle behind the seat holder ( like a triathlon bottle holder) and it was clumsy and did not like tools in my jersey, then tried a vertical seat bag that had a pouch for the bottle in the back but it also was clumsy.

bikingshearer 

Cables - to my eye, they are at the long end of the acceptable range, but then I'm a godless heretic who puts Campy 10sp triple stuff on 55 year old frames . . . ..

Bottle cage - two thoughts, both currently in place on my steeds. In fact, one bike has both of these work-arounds in place. (1) Get a handlebar cage holder. There are modern ones that are inexpensive and very effective. They leave your bottle a bit off center, but that doesn't bother me. If it bothers you, look for an older one that centers the bottle. The ones I use look like this. (2) Use the standard cage frame clamps, but wrap the tube with a layer of cloth handlebar tape where the bands go. Depending on the color you choose, it can be unobtrusive or it can be a decorative accent. (On my bike that is a similar shade of silver/gray, black looks really good in a low-key way - like two thin strips of black paint on either side of the band.) Either way, it saves the point. You may need longer bolts because of the thickness the tape adds, but standard M5s usually work and come in just about length you could possibly want..

I'm not a fan of the Two Fish cages - I can't get them to stay put no matter what I do. Okay, I haven't tried red loctite, but you get the point.

merziac

@sloar

Here's a holder that I like better than the two fish.

https://www.performancebike.com/dawn...CABEgLXYPD_BwE

Kevin stafford

I would vote for no cage - Camelbak instead.

Reynolds 

I wouldn't say they are too long, but if they were mine I'd have them a bit shorter.

nlerner

Drinking water is for the weak.

noobinsf 

If you're open to mounting the bottle at the handlebar, this thread has some interesting ideas and options. I like post #24, pretty clever, https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...le-cage-2.html

Piff 

Elegant, but potentially fragile. I think if I were to try that setup again (mine broke) I'd put a little L bracket underneath to help provide support.

My favorites are the Minoura BH-60 for the handlebars, or the King Cage Universal Support Bolt for the frame. The King Cage is nice because you aren't clamping the cage directly to the frame, meaning you can use any type of bottle cage you'd like. Clamping a cage directly to the frame requires the bottle cage to have little flanges sticking out for the hose clamp to grab on to.

P.S. Agreed that the cables are a bit long.

sloar 

Cut them down a bit.

John E

Did someone mention water bottles?


Looking through the Bianchi at the 1959 Capo, the Schwinn, and an old MTB frame. The Capo Siegers are behind me.

Minoura adapters. I use the bungie for added security.

Random Tandem

If it were mine, I think the handlebar position would be key. You seem to have the traditional position of the bottoms of the bars being close to parallel to the ground, while it seems that the modern style is to have the top of the bar (the ramps before the brakes) close to parallel to the ground. I think the change in style reflects that most people now ride on the hoods, while that was less common back when I was young. This difference should be resolved before you adjust the length of the cables, because the modern positioning will mean that the cables are definitely too long. If you keep the handlebars as they are, I would say it is at the long edge of the good range.

Bikes always look better without water bottles, but water can be nice, especially when it is hot.

-Will

sloar 

Position of bars and levers are set the way I like it. No issues there.

qcpmsame 

Shorten the cables, as said. Single cage on the downtube, old school wire of quality manufacture. All IMHO, up to you Top, up to you.

Bill

jdawginsc 

Depending on the clamps, you can cut Walmart craft foam to back the straps and keep it tight and scratch free.

Agree with most about the cables, a bit too long.

zukahn1 

I would be inclined to lower the position of the brake levers on the bars a bit to alloy for better breaking in the classic down position and leave the cables the same length..
With this type setup brakes you really want to have a better bottom strong breaking position if you need it.

sloar 

I like riding on the hoods. Bars and levers are set. I cut the cables down and I’m pretty happy with it thanks all.

jnbrown

It also adds pounds of weight to the frame.

zukahn1 

Well then shorten rear about a inch and leave the rest the same. Good jog on the bike it looks great.

sloar 

Thanks

zukahn1 

Cages don't add much weight but having them as option is great with only slight cosmetic issue I would put one on the seat tube for this bike and two for most others. On vintage stuff a 1/2 inch by 2inch strip of leather works fine for frame protection.

bamboobike4

Suck it up, jarhead. If they wanted you to have water, they'd have issued you a camel hump.
Actually, I have no idea where I'd put a bottle. Perhaps on the handlebars.