Just got a Peugeot Super Competition
#1
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Just got a Peugeot Super Competition
interesting mix of components...
ta cranks, superbe brakes, titlist front derailter, vx rear derailleur, suntour barcons, fiamme tubular rims - anyone know what kind of hubs these are?
ta cranks, superbe brakes, titlist front derailter, vx rear derailleur, suntour barcons, fiamme tubular rims - anyone know what kind of hubs these are?
#2
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looks like an 81 from the serial number. kind of cool but odd looking phil wood chp pedals.
would this derailleur hanger have been modified or did they come like this in the 80s?
would this derailleur hanger have been modified or did they come like this in the 80s?
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Hubs look like they could be Phil Wood.
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Nice bike! I recently picked up a Super Competition from 81 myself and it has an early Shimano 600 EX rear derailleur attached. It was explained to me by some members here that by this time the Simplex dropout derailleur hanger could accommodate any derailleur, unlike the older version which only accommodated Simplex. I agree with the poster earlier who stated the hubs look like Phil Wood hubs. They’re really very nice but be careful when cleaning them, if the red “Phil” script is still present, you can accidentally wipe it clean away with nothing but a dry rag.
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It does seem like a kind of odd mix of components- I wouldn't expect tubular rims to be matched up with Phil hubs & pedals and bar-end shifters!
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As far as the mix of parts, what we would EXPECT is not relevant, but there's nothing here of low qualityl What is the frame tubing?
Last edited by Road Fan; 10-07-22 at 05:41 AM.
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#9
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Nice bike! I recently picked up a Super Competition from 81 myself and it has an early Shimano 600 EX rear derailleur attached. It was explained to me by some members here that by this time the Simplex dropout derailleur hanger could accommodate any derailleur, unlike the older version which only accommodated Simplex. I agree with the poster earlier who stated the hubs look like Phil Wood hubs. They’re really very nice but be careful when cleaning them, if the red “Phil” script is still present, you can accidentally wipe it clean away with nothing but a dry rag.
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#12
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Definitely early Phil Wood hubs. The center portion of the hub is plated steel (nickel?), not aluminum, and prone to corrosion -- so if not already rusty anywhere, keep them waxed or oiled! I have a set with hi-lo flanges on the rear.
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#13
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Nice. I'm mulling over what to do with these. One of the rims has some rusty eyelets. Not sure if that's a big issue? But not really planning to get into tubulars either. Could sell and find something else, or remove the hubs and pair them with other rims. Open to any suggestions.
I have a couple options on hand, mavic g40 rims with mavic hubs, also a cheapo 650b set that been looking for a frame. I keep thinking I'm going to use it on other builds but end up keeping them 700c or 27.
I have a couple options on hand, mavic g40 rims with mavic hubs, also a cheapo 650b set that been looking for a frame. I keep thinking I'm going to use it on other builds but end up keeping them 700c or 27.
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If it were me- & of course it ain’t- I’d check the tire clearances with 650b rims. If 42s will fit, build some 650b wheels with the Phil hubs, & keep most everything else (you’ll need different brake calipers, of course). Maybe triple the crank- longer spindle….. But I’m old & live in the land of terrible roads & lots of (steep) hills….
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Nice score. It looks like it was upgraded in some places, the Phil hubs are certainly a bonus.
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Nice. I'm mulling over what to do with these. One of the rims has some rusty eyelets. Not sure if that's a big issue? But not really planning to get into tubulars either. Could sell and find something else, or remove the hubs and pair them with other rims. Open to any suggestions.
I have a couple options on hand, mavic g40 rims with mavic hubs, also a cheapo 650b set that been looking for a frame. I keep thinking I'm going to use it on other builds but end up keeping them 700c or 27.
I have a couple options on hand, mavic g40 rims with mavic hubs, also a cheapo 650b set that been looking for a frame. I keep thinking I'm going to use it on other builds but end up keeping them 700c or 27.
Next: do they hold air? After pumping up, let the wheels sit for a few days or until they are flat. In the meantime you can adjust your saddle and bars to match the fitting of your other bikes. If a tire leaks flat in an hour, it has a puncture and needs to be unsewn to be patched. Probably you don't want to do that - it's not difficult, but it is finicky and you need instructions.
If the tires seep down to about 50% pressure after one to two days and have passed the condition test, they have latex tubes and no leaks. Take a good look at the tread and see if it is coming off. If there is some tread separation you can try some repairs you can do with Shoe-Goo. I've had some good results with this, but I've only done little divots in the tread, not any large areas. Latex tubes seep air and need to be topped up typically once a day (not convenient for extended training, a tour, or commuting!). The positive sides are lighter weight, better suppleness/ride quality, and a more responsive feeling, absorbing little road vibrations. Set the pressure to about 50%, align them on the rim with your hands, pump them back up and then you can take a ride and have some direct experience with latex tubulars. I would suggest no racy-like moves since we are not doing a full gluing at this point. In my experience rolloff is very rare if the tire is on the rim straight, even without fresh glue. You're just going to take a 10 minute ride to get some experience. Watch out for bits of glass on the road glistening in the sun.
If the tires hold air pretty well after two days with no snaky lumps, you have butyl inner tubes, which could hold pressure several weeks or more. Observe the same points about tread separation, alignment on the rim, and riding gently and for not too much time, unless you love it, gain some more courage, and just wanna keep riding. Also watch out for glass on the roadway. Some tubulars are better than others at resisting flats, but I can't tell you much about that. Getting a flat bu riding over glass is not guaranteed, but it's also common and can ruin your nice day.
If you want to try out tubulars, the cheapest ones are surprisingly good, and are the Service Corse from Yellow Jersey in Wisconsin. Last time I bought some they were $15 each. I put them on my Mondonico and they are not like today's best, but they do convey the tubular experience. I do about 95 to 110 psi.
Sorry this is so long, but this is what I think you should know to try out your tubular tires before just trashing them. If you don't want to use them, most likely some of us here would consider taking them off your hands.
As far as Mavic hubs, they are decent hubs. Hoping that the frame is able to accommodate a 7-speed freewheel with 126 mm. Some are not, but I expect a better Peug frame is well-designed in this respect.
Last edited by Road Fan; 10-07-22 at 06:31 AM.
#21
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BTW, if the hubs need any attention, Phil Wood (the company) will do that, including things like modifying the axle length; they did on mine anyway, a few years back. Just email them with scope of refurbishment.
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#22
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My opinion is, since you have a decent wheelset with tubulars on hand, you can try the tubulars briefly and get some direct experience. At least for a basic condition check, pump up the tires pretty hard and see if they hold air and do not shed tread. Spin the wheels, see if the hubs are viable for a few rides, and if the tires look like a big snake is inside them. If they look snaky the carcass is broken and the tire is junk. That cannot be repaired. As a tubular user, you would just need to replace the tire. This does not say the rims are junk!
Next: do they hold air? After pumping up, let the wheels sit for a few days or until they are flat. In the meantime you can adjust your saddle and bars to match the fitting of your other bikes. If a tire leaks flat in an hour, it has a puncture and needs to be unsewn to be patched. Probably you don't want to do that - it's not difficult, but it is finicky and you need instructions.
If the tires seep down to about 50% pressure after one to two days and have passed the condition test, they have latex tubes and no leaks. Take a good look at the tread and see if it is coming off. If there is some tread separation you can try some repairs you can do with Shoe-Goo. I've had some good results with this, but I've only done little divots in the tread, not any large areas. Latex tubes seep air and need to be topped up typically once a day (not convenient for extended training, a tour, or commuting!). The positive sides are lighter weight, better suppleness/ride quality, and a more responsive feeling, absorbing little road vibrations. Set the pressure to about 50%, align them on the rim with your hands, pump them back up and then you can take a ride and have some direct experience with latex tubulars. I would suggest no racy-like moves since we are not doing a full gluing at this point. In my experience rolloff is very rare if the tire is on the rim straight, even without fresh glue. You're just going to take a 10 minute ride to get some experience. Watch out for bits of glass on the road glistening in the sun.
If the tires hold air pretty well after two days with no snaky lumps, you have butyl inner tubes, which could hold pressure several weeks or more. Observe the same points about tread separation, alignment on the rim, and riding gently and for not too much time, unless you love it, gain some more courage, and just wanna keep riding. Also watch out for glass on the roadway. Some tubulars are better than others at resisting flats, but I can't tell you much about that. Getting a flat bu riding over glass is not guaranteed, but it's also common and can ruin your nice day.
If you want to try out tubulars, the cheapest ones are surprisingly good, and are the Service Corse from Yellow Jersey in Wisconsin. Last time I bought some they were $15 each. I put them on my Mondonico and they are not like today's best, but they do convey the tubular experience. I do about 95 to 110 psi.
Sorry this is so long, but this is what I think you should know to try out your tubular tires before just trashing them. If you don't want to use them, most likely some of us here would consider taking them off your hands.
As far as Mavic hubs, they are decent hubs. Hoping that the frame is able to accommodate a 7-speed freewheel with 126 mm. Some are not, but I expect a better Peug frame is well-designed in this respect.
Next: do they hold air? After pumping up, let the wheels sit for a few days or until they are flat. In the meantime you can adjust your saddle and bars to match the fitting of your other bikes. If a tire leaks flat in an hour, it has a puncture and needs to be unsewn to be patched. Probably you don't want to do that - it's not difficult, but it is finicky and you need instructions.
If the tires seep down to about 50% pressure after one to two days and have passed the condition test, they have latex tubes and no leaks. Take a good look at the tread and see if it is coming off. If there is some tread separation you can try some repairs you can do with Shoe-Goo. I've had some good results with this, but I've only done little divots in the tread, not any large areas. Latex tubes seep air and need to be topped up typically once a day (not convenient for extended training, a tour, or commuting!). The positive sides are lighter weight, better suppleness/ride quality, and a more responsive feeling, absorbing little road vibrations. Set the pressure to about 50%, align them on the rim with your hands, pump them back up and then you can take a ride and have some direct experience with latex tubulars. I would suggest no racy-like moves since we are not doing a full gluing at this point. In my experience rolloff is very rare if the tire is on the rim straight, even without fresh glue. You're just going to take a 10 minute ride to get some experience. Watch out for bits of glass on the road glistening in the sun.
If the tires hold air pretty well after two days with no snaky lumps, you have butyl inner tubes, which could hold pressure several weeks or more. Observe the same points about tread separation, alignment on the rim, and riding gently and for not too much time, unless you love it, gain some more courage, and just wanna keep riding. Also watch out for glass on the roadway. Some tubulars are better than others at resisting flats, but I can't tell you much about that. Getting a flat bu riding over glass is not guaranteed, but it's also common and can ruin your nice day.
If you want to try out tubulars, the cheapest ones are surprisingly good, and are the Service Corse from Yellow Jersey in Wisconsin. Last time I bought some they were $15 each. I put them on my Mondonico and they are not like today's best, but they do convey the tubular experience. I do about 95 to 110 psi.
Sorry this is so long, but this is what I think you should know to try out your tubular tires before just trashing them. If you don't want to use them, most likely some of us here would consider taking them off your hands.
As far as Mavic hubs, they are decent hubs. Hoping that the frame is able to accommodate a 7-speed freewheel with 126 mm. Some are not, but I expect a better Peug frame is well-designed in this respect.
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They can be, but butyls much less so. But they are a thing unto themselves, and you have a chance to explore it a little bit or a lot, with minimal new expense.
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You might want to try tape rather than glue.
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