Vintage dia compe gran compe parts
#1
Long time lurker
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Chilliwack B.C.
Posts: 57
Bikes: 88 Marinoni Special, 86 Miyata 1000, 87 Miyata 712, 81 Apollo Imperial, 81 Apollo Gran Tour, 81 Apollo Gran Sport, Nishiki International, Diamond back ascent, Raleigh superbe, Raleigh sport
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18 Post(s)
Liked 15 Times
in
8 Posts
Vintage dia compe gran compe parts
so I'm missing the quick release set up on one of my brakes. I believe it is a dia compe gran compe base on the rear release. I've looked online for parts source but can't say I've found anything. One place had possible correct part but wanted a crazy amount for it. Anyone know of a source for parts like this they are willing to share? My LBS is pretty much useless and no coop within 2 hour drive to go snoop at.
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 3,292
Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1140 Post(s)
Liked 1,736 Times
in
957 Posts
You may be better off buying a whole caliper, the part you are seeking is the weak link of the model. I don't know if the updated versions part can drop in.
#3
Extraordinary Magnitude
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Waukesha WI
Posts: 13,646
Bikes: 1978 Trek TX700; 1978/79 Trek 736; 1984 Specialized Stumpjumper Sport; 1984 Schwinn Voyageur SP; 1985 Trek 620; 1985 Trek 720; 1986 Trek 400 Elance; 1987 Schwinn High Sierra; 1990 Miyata 1000LT
Mentioned: 84 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2608 Post(s)
Liked 1,699 Times
in
935 Posts
Every once in a while a set of adjusters show up on eBay.
__________________
*Recipient of the 2006 Time Magazine "Person Of The Year" Award*
Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
#4
Senior Member
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Niagara Region, Canada
Posts: 1,455
Bikes: 1970s Alex Singer, 1960s Peugeot PX 10, 1960s Bertin C37, 1973 Carre Bertin C 37, 1972 Carlton Kermesse, 1981 Peugeot PX 14 Super Competition
Mentioned: 65 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 346 Post(s)
Liked 266 Times
in
157 Posts
merrman-
You might want to consider Weinmann 405 QRs, they look about the same and often Weinmann/Dia Compe/Gran Compe parts interchanged. https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/Ke8AA...YU/s-l1600.jpg
You might want to consider Weinmann 405 QRs, they look about the same and often Weinmann/Dia Compe/Gran Compe parts interchanged. https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/Ke8AA...YU/s-l1600.jpg
Last edited by bertinjim; 07-29-20 at 03:46 PM. Reason: spelling
#6
Senior Member
Couple of things come to mind, maybe more theoretical as I never experienced them, but....
First of all, the old "Shoot, I stripped the cable anchor threads!" Don't know that's a bigger problem with these particular calipers than others, but stripping those threads in general is not uncommon.
Then the QR design isn't optimal, in that it's relatively difficult to open the QR under full cable tension. Better to squeeze the shoes against the rim, lessen the cable tension, then open the QR lever. I reckon if you're sloppy with the QR, the pivots could get sloppy, or maybe you could wear down the small nub on the cam-like section that holds the QR closed, in which case the QR would pop open under regular braking force.
Or something else I'm not thinking of, or aware of? All steel, so it rusts easier and the pivots freeze?
I used these a bit back in the day, and the cheaper DC500 calipers, I think, that had the same/similar QR design. A little hinky, but I never had any trouble with them. Definitely upgraded to Superbe Pro as soon as I saved enough $$$.
First of all, the old "Shoot, I stripped the cable anchor threads!" Don't know that's a bigger problem with these particular calipers than others, but stripping those threads in general is not uncommon.
Then the QR design isn't optimal, in that it's relatively difficult to open the QR under full cable tension. Better to squeeze the shoes against the rim, lessen the cable tension, then open the QR lever. I reckon if you're sloppy with the QR, the pivots could get sloppy, or maybe you could wear down the small nub on the cam-like section that holds the QR closed, in which case the QR would pop open under regular braking force.
Or something else I'm not thinking of, or aware of? All steel, so it rusts easier and the pivots freeze?
I used these a bit back in the day, and the cheaper DC500 calipers, I think, that had the same/similar QR design. A little hinky, but I never had any trouble with them. Definitely upgraded to Superbe Pro as soon as I saved enough $$$.
__________________
Fuggedaboutit!
Fuggedaboutit!
#7
Long time lurker
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Chilliwack B.C.
Posts: 57
Bikes: 88 Marinoni Special, 86 Miyata 1000, 87 Miyata 712, 81 Apollo Imperial, 81 Apollo Gran Tour, 81 Apollo Gran Sport, Nishiki International, Diamond back ascent, Raleigh superbe, Raleigh sport
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18 Post(s)
Liked 15 Times
in
8 Posts
Thanks for the replies. I'll expand my search a little to include the weinman parts as well. Just trying to avoid spending much in this covid year so trying to avoid replacement calipers for now.
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 3,292
Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1140 Post(s)
Liked 1,736 Times
in
957 Posts
In my opinion, the cable clamp design is flawed. The through cable clamp spot has the Allen bolt in to chinch the cable will break if tightened to many times or to much.
Getting them set is a fine line of to loose it will slip, and just when you think you have it at the right tork it slips, give it another little turn the bolt, oh snap.
The next version of the caliper has a clamp more like the traditional Campy brake.
Getting them set is a fine line of to loose it will slip, and just when you think you have it at the right tork it slips, give it another little turn the bolt, oh snap.
The next version of the caliper has a clamp more like the traditional Campy brake.
#9
Disraeli Gears
Can't one simply replace the clamp screw? With, say, a stainless steel (harder) cap screw? -- not that it will help the OP, who's missing all the parts of the QR.