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Di2 not shifting

Old 10-09-20, 11:44 AM
  #1  
vyborne
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Di2 not shifting

I am building up a triathlon bike with Ultegra 8050 front and rear derailleurs, 8060 TT levers, Dura Ace 9160 extension shifters, EW-RS910 Junction A and BT-DN110 battery and can’t get the derailleurs to shift with either the TT levers or the extension shifters. I have never built a bike with Di2, or even used one, so inexperience is definitely a factor.

The one mistake I do know I made was not putting the system together and testing it before installing it in my bike! My only saving grace is that at least I didn’t compound that error by installing the bottom bracket before I did test things. I am hopeful I can avoid taking it all apart because everything is internally wired and it was not easy getting things installed.

Here is what I have done so far to attempt to solve the problem:

1. Check that the battery is charged. When I press either the TT levers or the extension shifters, the green light on the junction A shows for 2 seconds, indicating a full charge. If it is important, the green and red lights then both show for 2 seconds which I believe means the system is set for manual shifting.

2. Check that the e-tube wires are connected properly. When doing the installation, I used Shimano’s TL-EW02 tool to connect all the wires and made sure I heard the click of each wire engaging. As a double check, I used the e-tube project software to set up my system and all the installed parts were found by the software which I believe indicates the wires are properly installed.

3. Update the firmware for all the parts. Again, I used the e-tube project software to successfully update the firmware for all my parts.

What else could be causing the problem?

Thanks for your help!
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Old 10-09-20, 12:10 PM
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Iride01 
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Both the front and rear DR's? If just the rear won't shift, have you made certain it's not in crash mode?

If you have loaded e-tube project then you should be able to see every Di2 component and determine what it is supposed to do when pushed. You can reconfigure some buttons and levers to do other than their intended function. It might be that you haven't enabled them.

This site has helped me quite a bit. https://bettershifting.com/ Lots of good info if you browse through it. https://bettershifting.com/frequently-asked-questions/
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Old 10-09-20, 01:08 PM
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If you're using the mobile E-tube app, you have to disconnect it from there first before you can shift.
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Old 10-09-20, 02:35 PM
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vyborne
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Surak - I am using the laptop/desktop version of the software at the moment, but do have the wireless module, although not installed yet, so thanks the warning when I migrate to the wireless platform.

Iride01 - I can't get either derailleur to shift. I did not enable anything as my understanding was that shifting functionality worked right out of the box. I have not reconfigured anything yet, so I will try that. Also, thanks for the website, I will check it out.
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Old 10-09-20, 08:56 PM
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To reiterate, the etube software has to be "disconnected" in software as well as hardware and in the
proper way or the system will not function. On the one occasion my LBS, who does tandem refits
to Di2 about once month, queried my system when a brifter stopped working and closed the
software before enabling the system, had to reopen the software and do it properly. As to
the brifter, the cable was loose, despite my use of the install tool and feeling the pop.
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Old 10-11-20, 12:35 PM
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If all derailleurs and shifters show up in E-Tube project then that indicates everything is connected just fine. In that case I would try to re-assign the shift buttons the right functions (shift up/down) to make sure there's nothing wrong there.
It should shift out of the box, but it's a good idea to make it's not that.

Shimano are (probably) releasing a new version of the desktop app on tuesday by the way..
(don't think there will be new functionality, but it'll look more like the mobile app)

When you install the Wireless Unit the mobile app will probably ask you to change the passkey. Don't do that on the initial setup.. it sometimes breaks the initial firmware update.
If you have changed the passkey, go to your phone's Bluetooth device list and forget/delete the EW-WU111/101 ;-).
(not sure about V4 of the app, but the old version used to cache the passkey and break the initial wireless update. This is the workaround)

@sch: was the brifter wire installed with some slack at the end? Ideally it shouldn't run straight into the (brifter)socket, but have a little loop or 'U'. This makes sure the cable isn't pulled loose easily.

Last edited by TerryDi2C; 10-11-20 at 12:40 PM.
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Old 10-13-20, 05:48 AM
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Thanks to the suggestions, I have gotten the front derailleur to work, but the rear is still not shifting.

I got the front to work by reconfiguring the system. Actually, it probably was functional the whole time, but I didn’t notice that the default settings for both the 8060 TT levers and the 9160 extension shifters were for shifting the rear derailleur, so nothing in the initial setup was capable of shifting the front derailleur. I tested both sets of shifters with the front derailleur and everything worked.

The question I now have is about the best way to assign the shifting. Does everyone with single button shifters on the base bar and extensions just use full synchro mode or is there another way to set things up?

As for the rear derailleur, I tried to reset it to make sure it wasn’t in crash mode. I pressed the button on the junction A for more than 5 seconds. First it showed steady red for a few seconds while the button was pushed, then flashing red for a couple seconds, which I believe is the indication that the derailleur has been reset. After the flashing red light ended, the green and red buttons both lit which I took as the code that my system is set for manual shifting. The rear derailleur did not move during this process, nor did it respond when I tried the shift buttons afterwards. Any other ideas on what might be causing the problem or did I not do the reset process correctly?
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Old 10-13-20, 06:35 AM
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I had a look at my Zwift bike..
Pressed and held the button until the red light started flashing and then it went to the red/green both lit state.
The second time I actually turned the cranks and the rear derailleur went through all the gears.

This is what that should look like:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GvFq...ature=youtu.be

(cranks are not that easy to turn when the bike is on a Kickr Core ;-))
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Old 10-13-20, 08:51 AM
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Not having ever installed Di2 myself, I'd just go back and follow the Shimano tech doc's, particularly the Dealers Manuals, and make sure everything I did is what they say. Read all the little sidebar notes in them and make sure you understand what all the pictograms are showing you.

What does the vendor you bought these from say? It might be you need to take it to an authorized Shimano shop. I've had to take mine in once only to be embarrassed that my battery was indeed not charged despite knowing that I'd put it on a charger a few days before.

Not saying at all that your battery is not charged. Just saying that taking it to someone more experienced and putting up with some ribbing and embarrassment will teach you something. Or, perhaps you and they will find that there is indeed an issue that requires a replacement component.
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Old 10-13-20, 09:14 AM
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Do I have to turn the cranks to reset the derailleur? The reason I ask is because I haven’t yet installed the cranks since the system wasn’t working. If that is the only way to reset the derailleur, then I guess that is what I have to do, but I was thinking the only thing worse than my current situation would be to have the cranks installed and the system still not working.
Thanks for all the help!
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Old 10-13-20, 09:20 AM
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Ah, well.. you could also take off the chain or take out the rear wheel - as long as the RD can move freely it's fine.
(I'm not sure resetting the RD is your problem, but it should definitely move when the red led starts flashing )
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Old 10-13-20, 11:05 AM
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I think we have established that all the other parts are working given my ability to shift the front derailleur with either the base bar shifters or the extension shifters, so the only issue is the rear derailleur. It shows up in the e-tube software, so the wire connection is good. If the rear derailleur is not in crash protection mode, any ideas as to what else could be causing the problem?
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Old 10-13-20, 12:33 PM
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Yeah.. the only other thing I can really think of is a malfunctioning rear derailleur, unfortunately.

This can be tested by any bike shop using their SM-PCE1 / SM-PCE02. You would just have to bring the rear derailleur to them and ask them to run error checking on it.
(probably best give them a call first though)

Note: you may also be able to perform error checking using the new E-Tube App (v4.0.2) and just the charger.. I haven't tested that yet :}
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Old 10-13-20, 07:15 PM
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Has OP run the RD through crash recovery mode?
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Old 10-14-20, 01:24 PM
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So I tried the new version of the e-tube project software, but that didn't change anything. Having tried all the suggestions here, I ended up taking the bike to my local shop where they diagnosed it and determined that the rear derailleur was not functional. Given that it was a brand new derailleur, Shimano is replacing it under warranty.

This problem is solved and I thank everyone for their help!

Unfortunately, I am now aware of another problem I will need to resolve which I will post as a new thread.
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