Remove and Replace Old Peugeot Frame Shifter bosses (PR-10)
10-11-21, 10:03 AM
#1
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Remove and Replace Old Peugeot Frame Shifter bosses (PR-10)
Hi,
I have an old peugeot frame that I'm going to repaint and put on bar shifters. When it comes to shifters bosses, the frame only has bosses on the right side which is also of a sort that I'm not familiar with (I'm foreseeing compatibility issues with "modern" Shimano Downtube Cable Stop/Adjuster)
I want to put on either downtube cable stops on both sides. What would be the best way, would it be a possibility to remove the existing cable boss without hurting the frame?
I have an old peugeot frame that I'm going to repaint and put on bar shifters. When it comes to shifters bosses, the frame only has bosses on the right side which is also of a sort that I'm not familiar with (I'm foreseeing compatibility issues with "modern" Shimano Downtube Cable Stop/Adjuster)
I want to put on either downtube cable stops on both sides. What would be the best way, would it be a possibility to remove the existing cable boss without hurting the frame?
10-11-21, 10:38 AM
#2
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Can you post a picture of the whole frame? I have a PR-10 and it has no shifter braze ons.
What I would probably do in that situation, is mount a bell on that braze on, an install the cable stop higher up on the downtube.
What I would probably do in that situation, is mount a bell on that braze on, an install the cable stop higher up on the downtube.
10-11-21, 10:51 AM
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You could remove it by sanding very carefully with a flap disk on an angle grinder until there is just a tiny bit left and then finishing with a file by hand. Just be super careful not to touch the actual frame with the grinder.
10-11-21, 11:04 AM
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Simplex made a band with a hole for that boss and a boss on the left side; get one of those and a set of boss-to-stop bits and you're in business:
10-11-21, 11:05 AM
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Roger M 's bell idea is not too bad. Or just put a M5 button head screw in there rather than removing it. This shifter boss will keep your new clamp from sliding down the tube.
It looks like the original was spot welded on. You can see a dimple where the spot weld is. This is removable, however, it could be tricky, time consuming and require some finesse. The problem is that you want to remove the spot weld and leave the tube completely undamaged.
If you do this, I would suggest start with something aggressive like an angle grinder (or even a Dremel) to remove the steel from the shifter bracket. As you get close to the surface of the tube, switch a file coarse file then to fine file to remove to remove material more carefully. There appear to be only two spot welds. One on top, one on bottom.
If it were mine, I would at least try without removing the shifter boss. See what it looks like and what you might be able to alternately use it for.
It looks like the original was spot welded on. You can see a dimple where the spot weld is. This is removable, however, it could be tricky, time consuming and require some finesse. The problem is that you want to remove the spot weld and leave the tube completely undamaged.
If you do this, I would suggest start with something aggressive like an angle grinder (or even a Dremel) to remove the steel from the shifter bracket. As you get close to the surface of the tube, switch a file coarse file then to fine file to remove to remove material more carefully. There appear to be only two spot welds. One on top, one on bottom.
If it were mine, I would at least try without removing the shifter boss. See what it looks like and what you might be able to alternately use it for.
10-11-21, 11:14 AM
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https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...e-project.html
Silver-braze flows pretty nicely with a MAPP gas torch. I've added DT shifter bosses on a couple of bikes. The hard part is locating and holding. And silver braze is kind of expensive - like $35 for 31gm (1 troy ounce).
Your DT pic kind of looks like a tack weld or something holding the boss on - there's a dot on the flange? Is that what I'm seeing?
I dunno - when I removed the DT cable stops in that link I posted, my MAPP torch had them fall off pretty easy, so they were probably silver brazed on.
With resistance welds, like yours "might" be, a good weld might, "maybe", pull some of the frame tubing away if you go to peel off the boss -- or it would leave a nugget on the frame tube. That would be a good resistance weld.
If it leaves a nugget, just sand it off! I suppose you could start peeling the boss, and as long as the boss is tearing, you'd be in good shape!
cheers!
Silver-braze flows pretty nicely with a MAPP gas torch. I've added DT shifter bosses on a couple of bikes. The hard part is locating and holding. And silver braze is kind of expensive - like $35 for 31gm (1 troy ounce).
Your DT pic kind of looks like a tack weld or something holding the boss on - there's a dot on the flange? Is that what I'm seeing?
I dunno - when I removed the DT cable stops in that link I posted, my MAPP torch had them fall off pretty easy, so they were probably silver brazed on.
With resistance welds, like yours "might" be, a good weld might, "maybe", pull some of the frame tubing away if you go to peel off the boss -- or it would leave a nugget on the frame tube. That would be a good resistance weld.
If it leaves a nugget, just sand it off! I suppose you could start peeling the boss, and as long as the boss is tearing, you'd be in good shape!
cheers!
10-11-21, 01:00 PM
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Simplex had a shift lever mount that fit over that piece, using the execrable Delrin levers. Nothing modern is compatible. It's possible that a Simplex retrofriction lever might work with that braze-on and clamp unit, but I've never tried it.
10-11-21, 01:22 PM
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I think I have one of those clamps for the NDS shift lever. Retap that one and the existing one to M5 and put away the more destructive tools! I’ll check in a bit
10-11-21, 01:27 PM
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Roger M 's bell idea is not too bad. Or just put a M5 button head screw in there rather than removing it. This shifter boss will keep your new clamp from sliding down the tube.
It looks like the original was spot welded on. You can see a dimple where the spot weld is. This is removable, however, it could be tricky, time consuming and require some finesse. The problem is that you want to remove the spot weld and leave the tube completely undamaged.
If you do this, I would suggest start with something aggressive like an angle grinder (or even a Dremel) to remove the steel from the shifter bracket. As you get close to the surface of the tube, switch a file coarse file then to fine file to remove to remove material more carefully. There appear to be only two spot welds. One on top, one on bottom.
If it were mine, I would at least try without removing the shifter boss. See what it looks like and what you might be able to alternately use it for.
It looks like the original was spot welded on. You can see a dimple where the spot weld is. This is removable, however, it could be tricky, time consuming and require some finesse. The problem is that you want to remove the spot weld and leave the tube completely undamaged.
If you do this, I would suggest start with something aggressive like an angle grinder (or even a Dremel) to remove the steel from the shifter bracket. As you get close to the surface of the tube, switch a file coarse file then to fine file to remove to remove material more carefully. There appear to be only two spot welds. One on top, one on bottom.
If it were mine, I would at least try without removing the shifter boss. See what it looks like and what you might be able to alternately use it for.
you need to remove the paint- on the UO8 that boss was spot welded - not sure on the PR
my hunch brass- if so, an oxy/ acetylene or Oxy/ propane applied to the boss should with some vise grip tugging remove it.
10-11-21, 02:52 PM
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The OP's already stated the frame's getting repainted, a few have suggested having new bosses brazed on prior to that.
@karldub, where are you located? Are you painting it yourself, or sending out? Some painters/powder coaters can also braze on new bits.
@karldub, where are you located? Are you painting it yourself, or sending out? Some painters/powder coaters can also braze on new bits.
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10-11-21, 03:14 PM
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Hmm, I struck out in finding one of those NDS boss clamps. But I did find a bunch of these odd ones. Any ideas what they'd be for?
10-12-21, 04:05 AM
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10-12-21, 04:20 AM
#13
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Thanks for all the good input! The work is to be done from a small apartment, and I have no weld or welding possibilities, so I think I'll first try to find alternative uses for the shifter boss.
You think any chance a hacksaw would suffice?
Cheers.
Roger M 's bell idea is not too bad. Or just put a M5 button head screw in there rather than removing it. This shifter boss will keep your new clamp from sliding down the tube.
It looks like the original was spot welded on. You can see a dimple where the spot weld is. This is removable, however, it could be tricky, time consuming and require some finesse. The problem is that you want to remove the spot weld and leave the tube completely undamaged.
If you do this, I would suggest start with something aggressive like an angle grinder (or even a Dremel) to remove the steel from the shifter bracket. As you get close to the surface of the tube, switch a file coarse file then to fine file to remove to remove material more carefully. There appear to be only two spot welds. One on top, one on bottom.
If it were mine, I would at least try without removing the shifter boss. See what it looks like and what you might be able to alternately use it for.
It looks like the original was spot welded on. You can see a dimple where the spot weld is. This is removable, however, it could be tricky, time consuming and require some finesse. The problem is that you want to remove the spot weld and leave the tube completely undamaged.
If you do this, I would suggest start with something aggressive like an angle grinder (or even a Dremel) to remove the steel from the shifter bracket. As you get close to the surface of the tube, switch a file coarse file then to fine file to remove to remove material more carefully. There appear to be only two spot welds. One on top, one on bottom.
If it were mine, I would at least try without removing the shifter boss. See what it looks like and what you might be able to alternately use it for.
Cheers.
