DIY thru-axle adapter for Park PRS-20
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DIY thru-axle adapter for Park PRS-20
Does anyone have a DIY solution for adapting a Park PRS-20 race stand to accept 12mm thru-axle bikes without spending $60.00+ for the Park accessory?
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One thing that occurs to me, find a tube with the right ID for your through axle, use band clamps to clamp it on top of
the existing tube, remove the existing tube QR apparatus if needed for clearance. Cut new tube to needed length first. You may need to
fab a spacer out of some soft material between the two tubes, maybe 0.25" or so.
From the Park instructions for the adapter it just looks like an open tube: https://www.parktool.com/assets/doc/...structions.pdf
An aluminum thick walled tube would be a little more benign than a steel tube from a scratching the inside of the fork POV, but you use what
you can find. Try speedy metals for tubing, 0.5" ID should clear your 12mm axle fine.
the existing tube, remove the existing tube QR apparatus if needed for clearance. Cut new tube to needed length first. You may need to
fab a spacer out of some soft material between the two tubes, maybe 0.25" or so.
From the Park instructions for the adapter it just looks like an open tube: https://www.parktool.com/assets/doc/...structions.pdf
An aluminum thick walled tube would be a little more benign than a steel tube from a scratching the inside of the fork POV, but you use what
you can find. Try speedy metals for tubing, 0.5" ID should clear your 12mm axle fine.
Last edited by sch; 10-25-21 at 03:38 PM.
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I drilled a hole big enough diameter in a piece of scrap 2x4 and then just clamped that on a sawhorse to hold my front forks still and just let the BB shell rest on another scrap piece of 2x4 that I v-notched and closed off the ends of the notch to keep it from getting pushed out the side. I have to screw that block in, but hey, I didn't have to buy anything special. Just pieces of scrap already on the garage floor. Maybe scrap from the 2x4's I used to make the sawhorses from.
But I'm only a DIY for myself type. If you are doing this a for real bicycle mechanic, even I would look at you strange if you put my bike up in such cribbed together contraption to work on it.
But I'm only a DIY for myself type. If you are doing this a for real bicycle mechanic, even I would look at you strange if you put my bike up in such cribbed together contraption to work on it.
Last edited by Iride01; 10-25-21 at 03:41 PM.
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Solution!
What I ended up doing is buying an $11.00 section of 3/4" steel tubing and having a local welder cut pieces to 100mm and 142mm and add them to the bottom of Park fork mount. Now all I have to do is flip it in the work stand to work on my QR and TA bikes.
3/4" steel pipe cut to 100mm and welded to the Park QR adapter.
Holds a 100mm thru axle fork very securely when the axle is tightened. I also had a 142mm piece added for when I want to work on the bike with the fork removed.
3/4" steel pipe cut to 100mm and welded to the Park QR adapter.
Holds a 100mm thru axle fork very securely when the axle is tightened. I also had a 142mm piece added for when I want to work on the bike with the fork removed.
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Good conversion. You might put a piece of electrical tape over each of the tubes' ends to avoid scratching the fork or frame dropouts when they are tightened in the mounts.
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possibly unavailable I think the OP request was reasonable and his solution a good one. I was trying to avoid welding when I offered
my suggestion, but the availability of welding certainly simplifies matters.