ReallySloJoe

UPDATE: Today I tried installing a new bearing. Measurements are 51.9*40, 45/45, same as the one I removed. I guess I should have realized the size might be a problem and properly measured instead of ordering the same. It won't fit. I measured the inside of the cup and got a diameter 51.8. Should I use a 51.8 bearing or something even smaller so it will fit? Thanks...
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While removing a fork I damaged in a crash, I found that the lower headset bearing was notchy. I tried to remove it, but it wouldn't budge.
The bearing was flush with the inner diameter of the cup so I couldn't push it out from the top, all that happened was I removed the internal part of the bearing. The outer part of the bearing (outer race?) was still stuck inside. Heated the cup with a towel with boiling water, but eventually started using force between the bearing and the cup. This ended with me scratching the cup quite a bit. One scratch about 0.5 mm deep, I'd say.

How bad is it to use with a new bearing? Should I immediately replace the cup? What could I have done differently? Any very thin, very strong tool that could have been wedged between the bearing and the cup?
Bike is Niner Sir 9 v2.0 with ZS44/28.6 EC44/40 headset.

Can't yet post pictures...
Thanks for any advice based on this.
Thansk

TiHabanero

Those types of headsets are a real PIA to get bearings out of if they are pressed in or severely rusted in place. Install the new bearing and ride it. The gouge won't present any issues in durability or present failure risk.

cb400bill

Pic Assist - https://www.bikeforums.net/g/picture/22898873

blamester

You gotta judge will the bearing sit flush and square. If you think it won't get a new cup.

pdlamb

Since this is the bicycle mechanics forum (and also since I may have to do this in the near future)...

How do you go about getting a pressed-in headset bearing?

dsaul

The bearing the OP's bike is not pressed in. It was a cartridge bearing that was locked into place by corrosion and had to be forced out. This is not uncommon for lower headset bearings on bikes that are used in wet weather. As for where to get the bearing, Cane Creek sells replacement bearings for their headsets. They also have an upgraded stainless "hellbender" version that may help prevent this type of seized bearing in the future.

HillRider

A complete brand new Cane Creek 40 headset meeting those specs isn't that expensive and the individual upper and lower assemblies are also available separately. Buy a new replacement.

ReallySloJoe

Thanks for the insight and advice.
I'll try seating the new bearing properly. Wanted to avoid the extra expense but if I see that it isn't seating properly, I'll bite the bullet and get a new cup. An opportunity to learn a new skill and make some tools...

WizardOfBoz

You can seat the things with 16 inches of all-thread (3/8"), two nuts, and some washers. Alternately, put a block of hardwood over the cap and use a hammer (moderate whaps - make sure you keep the thing aligned). The hammer approach takes talent and I'd go for all-thread. I got a full Cane Creek 40 headset for $42 bucks, parts probably cheaper. The allthread you can get for about 10-20 bucks. good luck.

CliffordK

Since that is just a holder for the bearing cartridges, and not actual loose bearing races, the scratches won't affect much. If there are some high spots, you could knock them down with sandpaper or emery cloth.

My general method to remove traditional headsets is to take a large crescent wrench. Set it to the outside of the head tube, and on top of the headset, and give a couple of whacks of the hammer.

cyccommute 

No need to get a new headset. Just get the bearing. The “scratches” you have are just chips in the coating. They will cause no functional issue.