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How much should my hi-end bike weigh?

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How much should my hi-end bike weigh?

Old 10-24-21, 10:55 PM
  #26  
Kimmo 
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Seems a bit heavy for a bike with rim brakes and tubulars.

This bad boy is 6.24kg / 13.75lb... fifteen years old, too.



Originally Posted by tbenjaminsen View Post
Maybe a second stealth CF wheelset is the way to go, although I can almost hear the sound of a massive amount of money flying out from my wallet 😂
These 49mm Caden tubulars are 1080g the pair, AU$1800

Last edited by Kimmo; 10-24-21 at 11:01 PM.
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Old 10-24-21, 11:29 PM
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Originally Posted by TiHabanero View Post
Lose the fugly wheel stickers and save a gram or two, and gain respectability to boot! Good Lord, they are hideous!

Keep in mind, anything under 15lbs means nothing as it can't be used in a UCI event.
You could still bring it to your local weekend worlds ride.
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Old 10-25-21, 12:56 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Kimmo View Post
Seems a bit heavy for a bike with rim brakes and tubulars.

This bad boy is 6.24kg / 13.75lb... fifteen years old, too.



These 49mm Caden tubulars are 1080g the pair, AU$1800
The frame is 15 yrs old but nothing else is.
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Old 10-25-21, 03:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Dean V View Post
The frame is 15 yrs old but nothing else is.
So? It's common practice for people say stuff like, my 15/7/2yo bike, is it? It's an obviously pimped 15yo bike.

The rear brake is from the 80s, if that's of interest.
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Old 10-25-21, 07:49 AM
  #30  
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Should? According to physics, it *should* weigh as much as it says when you put it on a scale.
How much do you *want* it to weigh? If the scale says more than you want it to, find lighter components.
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Old 10-25-21, 08:43 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by TiHabanero View Post
Keep in mind, anything under 15lbs means nothing as it can't be used in a UCI event.
I'm guessing the OP isn't riding such events.
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Old 10-25-21, 08:44 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Kimmo View Post
So? It's common practice for people say stuff like, my 15/7/2yo bike, is it? It's an obviously pimped 15yo bike.

The rear brake is from the 80s, if that's of interest.
There's the joke about the old woodsman who brags that he's owned the same axe for 20 years: "I've only replaced the head twice, and the handle three times!"
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Old 10-25-21, 08:56 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Andy Somnifac View Post
Should? According to physics, it *should* weigh as much as it says when you put it on a scale.
How much do you *want* it to weigh? If the scale says more than you want it to, find lighter components.
Factually accurate and totally unhelpful.
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Old 10-25-21, 10:20 AM
  #34  
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Just looking at your build, I would say that, unfortunately, you have a bunch of fairly expensive and fairly light components all leading upto a fairly light bike. There's no silver bullet here.

Darimo T1 Loop Seatpost Aero/Not round ? Darimo Carbon

Darimo will make you a 95g seatpost that will probably save around 100g. You can also get their sub 200g bar-stem that they just announced. That will probably shave off a solid 100-200g.

The wheels seem to weigh 1470g. Quite portly for a set of tubulars. The cadens are a good choice if you want something aero. Their 25mm wheelset weighs 940g so you'd lose a solid 500g. ax lightness sells a similar wheelset for double the price that saves you another 100g.

You can save another 150g on the crankset. Maybe 50-100g on the saddle if you get a berk or something. You can get a one piece cassette that will shave off 70g. Ti/bolt-on skewer, at least up front. Etc etc. WeightWeenies is a better place to inquire about this.

so I just mentioned several thousand dollars in "upgrades" that will save you *maybe* 1.2kg. Is it really worth it?

Personally, the first upgrade I would make is a BBinfinite or hambini bottom bracket. A stiffer bottom bracket is both cheaper and more noticeable than any of these upgrades. Then I'd look getting nicer tires. Weight isn't everything. The rolling resistance, comfort and stiffness of a bike matter just as much, if not more and can usually be improved with a lot less money.

Last edited by smashndash; 10-25-21 at 10:47 AM.
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Old 10-25-21, 11:06 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Kimmo View Post
So? It's common practice for people say stuff like, my 15/7/2yo bike, is it? It's an obviously pimped 15yo bike.

The rear brake is from the 80s, if that's of interest.
Nice bike though.
I had a 2014 TCR SL and now have a 2020.
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Old 10-25-21, 12:39 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Koyote View Post
There's the joke about the old woodsman who brags that he's owned the same axe for 20 years: "I've only replaced the head twice, and the handle three times!"
Trigger's broom for the UK guys!
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Old 10-25-21, 06:28 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by base2 View Post
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...l-project.html

IMG_0599 by Richard Mozzarella, on Flickr
It actually weighs less now with the heavy Race 28's safely on a hook in the garage & HED Belgiums installed instead. (Sorry the pics are upside-down. They're right at the Flickr site. 🤷‍♂️ )

https://www.bikeforums.net/framebuil...ification.html

This bike now wears a tandem fork with a more appropriate 50mm of rake & cantilever brakes. Also it's running GP5000TL clinchers & a standard Ultegra drivetrain instead of the JTek Shiftmate8 powered road/mountain mishmash. 6500 miles so far since that thread wound down. No issues. I haven't weighed it since the reconfig.

Edit: 28.4 pounds as ridden with the Velocity A23's. About a pound less with the Powertap Amp G3 wheel set that just aesthetically ugly AF on this bike. Not bad for a 47 year-year old size 58, hunk of gas-pipe. Even if I do say so myself.
for the love of god why?

After that effort and expense, you still have 28 pound bike with a gas pipe frame that rides like a turd. Same time and effort on any generic Chinese frame would be a dramatically better bike.

My first 10 speed was a Varsity and the bike had its place, but there’s no way that electoweld frame is worth putting coin and sweat into
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Old 10-25-21, 07:20 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by merlinextraligh View Post
for the love of god why?

After that effort and expense, you still have 28 pound bike with a gas pipe frame that rides like a turd. Same time and effort on any generic Chinese frame would be a dramatically better bike.

My first 10 speed was a Varsity and the bike had its place, but there’s no way that electoweld frame is worth putting coin and sweat into
In both cases, it is no more complicated than: "Because I could."

The prompt for the 28 pound green one was because on another bike I commuted on, the fully weighted panniers made it ride like trash with the load necessarily behind the axle to avoid heel strike. The Schwinn was a low cost way to see how a long wheel based bike would ride with the panniers in front of the rear axle & still be far enough behind to avoid heel strike. The result was when fully loaded was the CG rested between the bottom bracket & the seat clamp. The 70 degree HTA, the effective 73 degree STA (from the zero setback post) & 66mm trail made for a brilliant stable gravel/touring bike that"ll support tubeless 42's. The 19-109 gear inch range never left me wanting for more gears. I did my first gravel century on that bike.

A Schwinn Varsity's geometry is not that different than that of dedicated gravel bikes now. It just goes to show that the more things change, the more they stay the same...What's old is new again.

The red bike that weighs 25 pounds is my wifes commuter bike. I did that one to prove it can be done. For the love of the project. Just to be different. To save an old thing. To indulge sunk-cost tendencies. Take your pick.

As an added bonus, her bike, being a Schwinn; It presents a low-theft risk in the bike rack at her work where it lives 13 hours a day, 4 days a week. People see the head badge & keep right on walkin'

As for my bike, I like showing up to group rides & dropping the hammer with out all the loaded expectations & bias that my Cervelo loads into people. That -ish got real old. The Schwinn is disarming & approachable.

Last edited by base2; 10-25-21 at 07:58 PM.
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Old 10-26-21, 01:26 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Koyote View Post
I'm guessing the OP isn't riding such events.
You are very right, Sir
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Old 10-26-21, 01:42 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by smashndash View Post
Just looking at your build, I would say that, unfortunately, you have a bunch of fairly expensive and fairly light components all leading upto a fairly light bike. There's no silver bullet here.

Darimo T1 Loop Seatpost Aero/Not round ? Darimo Carbon

Darimo will make you a 95g seatpost that will probably save around 100g. You can also get their sub 200g bar-stem that they just announced. That will probably shave off a solid 100-200g.

The wheels seem to weigh 1470g. Quite portly for a set of tubulars. The cadens are a good choice if you want something aero. Their 25mm wheelset weighs 940g so you'd lose a solid 500g. ax lightness sells a similar wheelset for double the price that saves you another 100g.

You can save another 150g on the crankset. Maybe 50-100g on the saddle if you get a berk or something. You can get a one piece cassette that will shave off 70g. Ti/bolt-on skewer, at least up front. Etc etc. WeightWeenies is a better place to inquire about this.

so I just mentioned several thousand dollars in "upgrades" that will save you *maybe* 1.2kg. Is it really worth it?

Personally, the first upgrade I would make is a BBinfinite or hambini bottom bracket. A stiffer bottom bracket is both cheaper and more noticeable than any of these upgrades. Then I'd look getting nicer tires. Weight isn't everything. The rolling resistance, comfort and stiffness of a bike matter just as much, if not more and can usually be improved with a lot less money.
Thanks a lot - this is really helpful!
Will have to consider these tips, although the question you ask "Is it worth it" is the most relevant here.
I'm leaning towards just keeping the bike as it is, maybe keeping it simple switching the tires and likewise considering a potential BB switch down the road (pun intended)
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Old 10-26-21, 04:45 AM
  #41  
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There's the weight on the scale, and there's how light it feels.

A low number is nice, but what you really want is your bike to feel light. Tyres, rims, seat and post, levers and bars. Make those light and your bike will feel light.
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Old 10-26-21, 06:51 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by tbenjaminsen View Post
the question you ask "Is it worth it" is the most relevant here.
When you already have a 7.3 kg bike including pedals then the answer is almost always no. Especially if there's still low hanging fruit to be had off the bike.
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Old 10-26-21, 09:06 AM
  #43  
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200g lighter than whatever yours currently weighs.
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Old 10-26-21, 10:55 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Kimmo View Post
Seems a bit heavy for a bike with rim brakes and tubulars.

This bad boy is 6.24kg / 13.75lb... fifteen years old, too.



These 49mm Caden tubulars are 1080g the pair, AU$1800
First thing I noticed was the drop handlebar tree in the left of the pic. I didn't know such a tree existed.
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Old 10-26-21, 10:59 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by Kimmo View Post
There's the weight on the scale, and there's how light it feels.

A low number is nice, but what you really want is your bike to feel light. Tyres, rims, seat and post, levers and bars. Make those light and your bike will feel light.
Cheapest way to make your bike feel lighter is............do lots of pushups every day.
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Old 10-28-21, 02:05 PM
  #46  
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Personally, for as much as they cost, I think that modern high-end bikes should have a negative weight. Instead of a kickstand, they should come with a mooring line to keep them from flying off into the sky.

😁

Seriously though, to the OP, nice job on the build.
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