Is PB blaster OK to try to revive 7803 Dura Ace front brifter?
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: SW Ohio
Posts: 3,682
Bikes: Puch Marco Polo, Saint Tropez, Masi Gran Criterium
Mentioned: 25 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1163 Post(s)
Liked 442 Times
in
315 Posts
Is PB blaster OK to try to revive 7803 Dura Ace front brifter?
I am building up a used Masi Gran Criterium with some clean used Shimano Ultegra and Dura Ace parts. The integrated shift levers are clean used Dura Ace 7800 rear and 7803 triple front. They have minimal scratches although I did replace the hoods at one point though I have never finished this build. Now I am moving forward again on the build and find that the front shifter has no clicks in either the upshift swing or downshift swing.
I was going to spray some PB blaster into the internals to see if anything gets freed up as I sweep the shifter through the upshift and downshift modes.
I'm curious if anyone has successfully used PB Blaster spray for this application. I thought there were stronger solvents in it compared to WD40. I don't want to damage any delicate mechanisms but I do want to break up dried grease if this is the issue. Thanks for any help.
I was going to spray some PB blaster into the internals to see if anything gets freed up as I sweep the shifter through the upshift and downshift modes.
I'm curious if anyone has successfully used PB Blaster spray for this application. I thought there were stronger solvents in it compared to WD40. I don't want to damage any delicate mechanisms but I do want to break up dried grease if this is the issue. Thanks for any help.
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 982
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 506 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 638 Times
in
356 Posts
I am building up a used Masi Gran Criterium with some clean used Shimano Ultegra and Dura Ace parts. The integrated shift levers are clean used Dura Ace 7800 rear and 7803 triple front. They have minimal scratches although I did replace the hoods at one point though I have never finished this build. Now I am moving forward again on the build and find that the front shifter has no clicks in either the upshift swing or downshift swing.
I was going to spray some PB blaster into the internals to see if anything gets freed up as I sweep the shifter through the upshift and downshift modes.
I'm curious if anyone has successfully used PB Blaster spray for this application. I thought there were stronger solvents in it compared to WD40. I don't want to damage any delicate mechanisms but I do want to break up dried grease if this is the issue. Thanks for any help.
I was going to spray some PB blaster into the internals to see if anything gets freed up as I sweep the shifter through the upshift and downshift modes.
I'm curious if anyone has successfully used PB Blaster spray for this application. I thought there were stronger solvents in it compared to WD40. I don't want to damage any delicate mechanisms but I do want to break up dried grease if this is the issue. Thanks for any help.
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Golden, CO and Tucson, AZ
Posts: 2,837
Bikes: 2016 Fuji Tread, 1983 Trek 520
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 676 Post(s)
Liked 741 Times
in
430 Posts
I reserve the PB Blaster use for the severely frozen pawl. Once in a while you need to dismantle the shifter and get a dental pick on one of the pawls to work it free. If that doesn't work right away, a drop of penetrating oil helps. I don't know if penetrating oil is as good a cleaner as WD-40, which I hear is largely kerosene. And flushing out a shifter is the only place on a bike I use it.
Likes For andrewclaus:
#4
Senior member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Oakville Ontario
Posts: 8,117
Mentioned: 25 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 943 Post(s)
Liked 658 Times
in
371 Posts
WD 40 almost always works for me, and when it doesn't it's because something else is going on besides gummed up works. I do find that it sometimes takes patience though. Sometimes it takes hours or even days to thoroughly dissolve the gunk but that is usually in a shifter that has not been used in years. Otherwise, results are more immediate.
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 18,081
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4204 Post(s)
Liked 3,861 Times
in
2,309 Posts
The goal is to remove the old gummy lube, not just dilute it. Solvents and penetrating oils are poor lube, although they usually work well for the dissolving the old they are poor lubes and really will want a follow up with a true lube (which WD40 isn't). Andy
__________________
AndrewRStewart
AndrewRStewart
Likes For Andrew R Stewart:
#6
Senior Member
About 10 months ago I used PB Blaster on some 105 9 speed shifters and lubed with Dumonde Tech Lite. To this day they still work like new. I use mineral oil mixed with ATF on mountain bike shifters and it works really well if I flush with Clean Streak first. There really is nothing that can get damaged by solvents inside the brifters that I am aware of. Once cleaned out a light lube such as Dumonde Tech Lite works well and keeps the parts working freely.
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 18,081
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4204 Post(s)
Liked 3,861 Times
in
2,309 Posts
About 10 months ago I used PB Blaster on some 105 9 speed shifters and lubed with Dumonde Tech Lite. To this day they still work like new. I use mineral oil mixed with ATF on mountain bike shifters and it works really well if I flush with Clean Streak first. There really is nothing that can get damaged by solvents inside the brifters that I am aware of. Once cleaned out a light lube such as Dumonde Tech Lite works well and keeps the parts working freely.
__________________
AndrewRStewart
AndrewRStewart
Likes For Andrew R Stewart:
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 2,394
Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1561 Post(s)
Liked 1,734 Times
in
974 Posts
Another way to free up gunked up brifters is warmth. Either from setting the brifters in the sun or with a heat gun. Once the brifters frees up you can douse it with wd40 and then lube with Finishline dry lube
Likes For icemilkcoffee:
#10
Mad bike riding scientist
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 27,362
Bikes: Some silver ones, a red one, a black and orange one, and a few titanium ones
Mentioned: 152 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6219 Post(s)
Liked 4,218 Times
in
2,365 Posts
I was going to spray some PB blaster into the internals to see if anything gets freed up as I sweep the shifter through the upshift and downshift modes.
I'm curious if anyone has successfully used PB Blaster spray for this application. I thought there were stronger solvents in it compared to WD40. I don't want to damage any delicate mechanisms but I do want to break up dried grease if this is the issue. Thanks for any help.
If you have both, I’d use the WD-40 mostly because it smells better. Both have a fragrance added but PB Blaster’s fragrance is rather unpleasant in my opinion. If you only have PB Blaster, it will work just as well. If you only have WD-40, I wouldn’t run out and buy PB Blaster for this purpose. Neither will really work significantly better than the other.
__________________
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
#11
Mad bike riding scientist
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 27,362
Bikes: Some silver ones, a red one, a black and orange one, and a few titanium ones
Mentioned: 152 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6219 Post(s)
Liked 4,218 Times
in
2,365 Posts
Any spray lubricant is going to contain solvents. That’s the only way that the lubricant can be “sprayed” into place. WD-40 really isn’t any different from any other spray lubricant you care to name. The factory lubricant on shifters is a paste or semisolid lubricant that was physically placed on the part. Any spray lubricant…including WD-40…is going to be inferior to that kind of lubrication because the solvent is used to penetrate and the hope is that enough of the lubricant will be left behind.
WD-40 does have an advantage over just straight up spray degreasers in that they don’t leave any lubricant behind. At least some lubrication is left with WD-40 (or PB Blaster)
__________________
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Likes For cyccommute:
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 18,081
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4204 Post(s)
Liked 3,861 Times
in
2,309 Posts
Stuart's comments are not wrong, I don't disagree with the facts but I do with relying only on a spray as a lube. I think many here seek the quick way out of their service jobs and not always the better results. A solvent will loosen up, mix with and "freshen up" the old stuff. A spray lube with its partial solvent/carrier will do much the same, perhaps take longer to work its way inside the pawls then only a solvent does. But the solvent will in time evaporate away and if a spray lube was used its lube will remain, until that lube dries out too. All this will get the levers working in, usually, a fairly short amount of time and effort AND IF the lube was replenished periodically (as Shimano service suggests it should be, but few ever really do) this light weight lube (spray) should be fine.
My method is quite a bit more involved. At the shops I've worked in we prided ourselves for doing better work that lasts longer than what a home wrench usually can attain. For reviving gummy lube stuck STI (road or MtB) shifters we soaked the shifter core in solvent until the shifter cycled through its range freely. We'd blast out the solvent (and what old lube that dissolved in it) with compressed air. Sometimes on really stuck pawls we'd have to work the pawl with a pick to further allow solvent to get inside its pivot. Sometimes we'd repeat the soak and blast a few times, if the service writer was paying attention they would have done a quicky spray of the assembled on bike lever with a penetrating lube, it would start the softening up process the day+ before the shifter removal and flushing was started in earnest. Once the lever cycles freely and is dry of solvent we spray Triflow in the lever, cycle the lever repeatedly and blast with air to further help the Triflow get into the nooks and crannies. Repeat a couple of times then apply a medium weight drip oil with cycling and blasting a couple of times. If the lever's internals/core was not open I finish with a dripping in of Phil's oil with a blasting then a second dripping of Phil's. letting the levers drain off on a paper towel. If the internals/core was assessable I coat them with a thin film of grease (usually Phil's or Park). Before reassembling onto the bike I do a final lever cycling to confirm all is right. Generally the shift cable inner gets replaced.
This is a lot more effort than most any home wrench does, or claims here and in other forums that they do. But we don't see the levers coming back in 6 months or a year with a repeat of the stickies. We have done many STI flush and lubes that were tried by the rider after reading on line what to do. Either they didn't get the lever to work with simple spray lubes or the problem returned too soon.
Often there's good enough for now repairs and there's good for a long time ones. Often they don't overlap much but as long as the bike works again I guess it's all OK... Andy
My method is quite a bit more involved. At the shops I've worked in we prided ourselves for doing better work that lasts longer than what a home wrench usually can attain. For reviving gummy lube stuck STI (road or MtB) shifters we soaked the shifter core in solvent until the shifter cycled through its range freely. We'd blast out the solvent (and what old lube that dissolved in it) with compressed air. Sometimes on really stuck pawls we'd have to work the pawl with a pick to further allow solvent to get inside its pivot. Sometimes we'd repeat the soak and blast a few times, if the service writer was paying attention they would have done a quicky spray of the assembled on bike lever with a penetrating lube, it would start the softening up process the day+ before the shifter removal and flushing was started in earnest. Once the lever cycles freely and is dry of solvent we spray Triflow in the lever, cycle the lever repeatedly and blast with air to further help the Triflow get into the nooks and crannies. Repeat a couple of times then apply a medium weight drip oil with cycling and blasting a couple of times. If the lever's internals/core was not open I finish with a dripping in of Phil's oil with a blasting then a second dripping of Phil's. letting the levers drain off on a paper towel. If the internals/core was assessable I coat them with a thin film of grease (usually Phil's or Park). Before reassembling onto the bike I do a final lever cycling to confirm all is right. Generally the shift cable inner gets replaced.
This is a lot more effort than most any home wrench does, or claims here and in other forums that they do. But we don't see the levers coming back in 6 months or a year with a repeat of the stickies. We have done many STI flush and lubes that were tried by the rider after reading on line what to do. Either they didn't get the lever to work with simple spray lubes or the problem returned too soon.
Often there's good enough for now repairs and there's good for a long time ones. Often they don't overlap much but as long as the bike works again I guess it's all OK... Andy
__________________
AndrewRStewart
AndrewRStewart
Last edited by Andrew R Stewart; 01-03-22 at 10:54 AM.
Likes For Andrew R Stewart:
#14
Senior Member
I use CRC PowerLube in the red can. Contains PTFE so lays down a little lubricant in addition to the solvent. Never failed to free a gummed brifter with it.
Last edited by bargainguy; 01-03-22 at 05:43 PM.
#15
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: SW Ohio
Posts: 3,682
Bikes: Puch Marco Polo, Saint Tropez, Masi Gran Criterium
Mentioned: 25 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1163 Post(s)
Liked 442 Times
in
315 Posts
Thanks for all the expertise folks. I hope to just try WD40 on it tomorrow and will report back here with my results. I really hope this shifter is not toast!
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 982
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 506 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 638 Times
in
356 Posts
As others have noted, I should have followed up my WD-40 suggestion with needing to chase another actual lube in after you've got things working. Tri-Flow works well in that application.
#17
Mad bike riding scientist
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 27,362
Bikes: Some silver ones, a red one, a black and orange one, and a few titanium ones
Mentioned: 152 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6219 Post(s)
Liked 4,218 Times
in
2,365 Posts
My main point is that if you are going to use either, it doesn’t matter which. If you want to remove all the old grease…not a good idea in my opinion…use a spray solvent that doesn’t contain oil, then use a spray oil. Or, if you want to keep it simple, use either spray lube and leave it at that. Doing multiple steps doesn’t make for better lubrication.
__________________
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Likes For cyccommute:
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Nor-Cal
Posts: 3,767
Bikes: lots
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1958 Post(s)
Liked 2,932 Times
in
1,489 Posts
What is this thing that people have against WD-40? Go read the material safety data sheets on WD-40 and Triflow. They are essentially the same thing. They use the same solvent mixture and use very similar oil for the lubrication in similar concentrations. The only real difference is that Triflow has amyl acetate in it so that it smells like bananas.
My main point is that if you are going to use either, it doesn’t matter which. If you want to remove all the old grease…not a good idea in my opinion…use a spray solvent that doesn’t contain oil, then use a spray oil. Or, if you want to keep it simple, use either spray lube and leave it at that. Doing multiple steps doesn’t make for better lubrication.
My main point is that if you are going to use either, it doesn’t matter which. If you want to remove all the old grease…not a good idea in my opinion…use a spray solvent that doesn’t contain oil, then use a spray oil. Or, if you want to keep it simple, use either spray lube and leave it at that. Doing multiple steps doesn’t make for better lubrication.
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 982
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 506 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 638 Times
in
356 Posts
What is this thing that people have against WD-40? Go read the material safety data sheets on WD-40 and Triflow. They are essentially the same thing. They use the same solvent mixture and use very similar oil for the lubrication in similar concentrations. The only real difference is that Triflow has amyl acetate in it so that it smells like bananas.
My main point is that if you are going to use either, it doesn’t matter which. If you want to remove all the old grease…not a good idea in my opinion…use a spray solvent that doesn’t contain oil, then use a spray oil. Or, if you want to keep it simple, use either spray lube and leave it at that. Doing multiple steps doesn’t make for better lubrication.
My main point is that if you are going to use either, it doesn’t matter which. If you want to remove all the old grease…not a good idea in my opinion…use a spray solvent that doesn’t contain oil, then use a spray oil. Or, if you want to keep it simple, use either spray lube and leave it at that. Doing multiple steps doesn’t make for better lubrication.
#21
Hoards Thumbshifters
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Signal Mountain, TN
Posts: 1,157
Bikes: '23 Black Mtn MC, '87 Bruce Gordon Chinook, '08 Jamis Aurora, '86 Trek 560, '97 Mongoose Rockadile, & '91 Trek 750
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 246 Post(s)
Liked 335 Times
in
192 Posts
I have had great luck with CRC Electrical Cleaner, someone showed me as a trick 15 years ago to clean out STI's and Rapidfire mechanisms and it works well. Just hose it in there while clicking back and forth. Maybe wear gloves. Gets the gunk out, and then dries up fast. Then I usually spray back, lightly with some sort of very light lube, maybe an hour later while shifting through gears.
Just cause you put up the challenge, I looked at the MSDS of TriFlow and WD40. I am no chemist but the ingredients look somewhat different and %'s look different to me other than petroleum. That said WD-40 is a decent cleaner but tends to leave a film that is excellent at attracting dust in the long term, TriFlow works very similarly but seems to do a better job of lubrication and less dust collection over the long term. All my opinion and I am sure others would say different, but that has been my experience.
What is this thing that people have against WD-40? Go read the material safety data sheets on WD-40 and Triflow. They are essentially the same thing. They use the same solvent mixture and use very similar oil for the lubrication in similar concentrations. The only real difference is that Triflow has amyl acetate in it so that it smells like bananas.
My main point is that if you are going to use either, it doesn’t matter which. If you want to remove all the old grease…not a good idea in my opinion…use a spray solvent that doesn’t contain oil, then use a spray oil. Or, if you want to keep it simple, use either spray lube and leave it at that. Doing multiple steps doesn’t make for better lubrication.
My main point is that if you are going to use either, it doesn’t matter which. If you want to remove all the old grease…not a good idea in my opinion…use a spray solvent that doesn’t contain oil, then use a spray oil. Or, if you want to keep it simple, use either spray lube and leave it at that. Doing multiple steps doesn’t make for better lubrication.
#22
Mad bike riding scientist
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 27,362
Bikes: Some silver ones, a red one, a black and orange one, and a few titanium ones
Mentioned: 152 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6219 Post(s)
Liked 4,218 Times
in
2,365 Posts
Just cause you put up the challenge, I looked at the MSDS of TriFlow and WD40. I am no chemist but the ingredients look somewhat different and %'s look different to me other than petroleum. That said WD-40 is a decent cleaner but tends to leave a film that is excellent at attracting dust in the long term, TriFlow works very similarly but seems to do a better job of lubrication and less dust collection over the long term. All my opinion and I am sure others would say different, but that has been my experience.
__________________
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Likes For cyccommute:
#23
SE Wis
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 10,513
Bikes: '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400, 2013 Novara Randonee, 1990 Trek 970
Mentioned: 40 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2747 Post(s)
Liked 3,394 Times
in
2,056 Posts
I like to do the lube part with this.
https://www.1stayd.com/penetrating-g...x13-25-oz-case
or this, depending on what's in my stock.
https://www.northwoodstm.com/lubrica...oof-lubricant/
https://www.1stayd.com/penetrating-g...x13-25-oz-case
or this, depending on what's in my stock.
https://www.northwoodstm.com/lubrica...oof-lubricant/
Likes For dedhed:
#24
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: SW Ohio
Posts: 3,682
Bikes: Puch Marco Polo, Saint Tropez, Masi Gran Criterium
Mentioned: 25 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1163 Post(s)
Liked 442 Times
in
315 Posts
Just an update: I went ahead & sprayed the PB blaster in there and worked the lever back & forth until I felt and heard a click. I then sprayed a bit more and continued moving the upshift & downshift levers back and forth. I am delighted to say that this shifter started working perfectly well again!
I guess I now need to put some spray grease in there now.
I guess I now need to put some spray grease in there now.
#25
Full Member
Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 378
Bikes: 1994 Cadex CFR3, 2006 Scott CR1 SL, Rossin aero, Bertrand GB 2000, Spec Allez Pro
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 134 Post(s)
Liked 68 Times
in
52 Posts
Has anybody tried an ultrasonic cleaner? I guess it would work well with the inner gunk.