Catching up after a while: Puncture resistant tires, shoes
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Catching up after a while: Puncture resistant tires, shoes
It's been a very long time since I've bought much for my bike or looked up the latest trends. I'm doing RAGBRAI in a month and realized my shoes, my cleats, tires, they are all worn out beyond safety and becoming unglued. Though on the plus side, I can certainly say I've done this cycling sport on the cheap side.
- Is there some new technology that has allowed for a creation of puncture resistant tires that are still ok for occasional racing? I thought about getting Gatorskins, but I saw a lot of advice online about it's large rolling resistance and how those should not be used for racing. There is also the Continental 4 Seasons with a bit lower rolling and puncture resistance. Visiting a local bike shop, was surprised that Serfas Secas RS is still one of the recommended tires. That's exactly what I've had on my bike for the past 9+ years and they've provided decent protection (at this point, they're delaminating). Thus, I'm curious, what do you guys use for good puncture resistance and decent performance for the occasional race? A plus if replacing the tube is not difficult. I'm almost thinking about getting the same Serfas Seca, but I'm in a bit of disbelief that after 9 years there wouldn't be a newer, better tech. Want to make sure I'm not missing anything.
- Also need to replace my 10yr old shoes. Looking for something that's close to $100, SPD-SL cleats, easy to clean (no mesh), and tightens with a knob. Reading up online, seems like Specialized Torch 1.0 is one of the recommended ones. Any suggestions would be welcome.
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The bicylerollingresistance.com site gives the Pirelli Cinturato Velo TLR the highest puncture resistance rating, plus it scored pretty well on weight and rolling resistance.
It's available in tubed or tubeless style.
Tire ratings ordered by puncture resistance.
It's available in tubed or tubeless style.
Tire ratings ordered by puncture resistance.
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Tubeless. But assuming you have non-TLR rims, another thing you may have missed is that riding wider tires is considered less flat-prone for most if you get a fast-rolling, supple tire run at lower pressure without significant (if any) loss to speed.
There are also new non-butyl inner tubes that are marketed as being more puncture-resistant while also adding less rolling resistance than the traditional butyl ones.
There are also new non-butyl inner tubes that are marketed as being more puncture-resistant while also adding less rolling resistance than the traditional butyl ones.
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The bicylerollingresistance.com site gives the Pirelli Cinturato Velo TLR the highest puncture resistance rating, plus it scored pretty well on weight and rolling resistance.
It's available in tubed or tubeless style.
Tire ratings ordered by puncture resistance.
It's available in tubed or tubeless style.
Tire ratings ordered by puncture resistance.
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Tubeless. But assuming you have non-TLR rims, another thing you may have missed is that riding wider tires is considered less flat-prone for most if you get a fast-rolling, supple tire run at lower pressure without significant (if any) loss to speed.
There are also new non-butyl inner tubes that are marketed as being more puncture-resistant while also adding less rolling resistance than the traditional butyl ones.
There are also new non-butyl inner tubes that are marketed as being more puncture-resistant while also adding less rolling resistance than the traditional butyl ones.
Seems like wider tires have lower rolling resistance, lower puncture rates, and provide a nicer ride. Glad I hadn't bought new tires before checking here.
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Thanks for pointing that one out. Looks like a good choice. But I couldn't exactly find a tubed version of it. Is there like a different model for tubed? My concern with tubeless is that if I get a flat, then I'm done since it's not like I'm going to carry an extra tire with me. Whereas with a tube, I can replace it and be on my way.
EDIT: This Jenson link is to a different tire, the Pinarello P-Zero. Pinarello makes only a tubleless-ready version in the Cinturato Velo, which they state may be used in a "tubed or tubless configuration".
With a tubeless tire that’s punctured, you can insert a tube. Just remove the valve from the rim and insert the tube.
Last edited by terrymorse; 06-25-21 at 10:09 AM.
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Thanks for pointing that one out. Looks like a good choice. But I couldn't exactly find a tubed version of it. Is there like a different model for tubed? My concern with tubeless is that if I get a flat, then I'm done since it's not like I'm going to carry an extra tire with me. Whereas with a tube, I can replace it and be on my way.
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Here is the clincher version at Jenson.
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Thanks for pointing that one out. Looks like a good choice. But I couldn't exactly find a tubed version of it. Is there like a different model for tubed? My concern with tubeless is that if I get a flat, then I'm done since it's not like I'm going to carry an extra tire with me. Whereas with a tube, I can replace it and be on my way.
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Thanks for the tip on the Cinturato. I doubt LBS will have it, but I'll call around today before ordering online.
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The Pirelli site seems to imply there are two versions:
Originally Posted by pirelli.com
Sizes from 26-622 up to 35-622 make it ready for Granfondo riding as well as long adventures rides, all in a tube and/or TLR configuration
Last edited by terrymorse; 06-25-21 at 08:00 AM.
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Alright, well, I guess tubeless it is. I have to get a tubeless conversion kit for my RS10 clinchers it seems, also a tubeless repair kit and hope that a 32mm tires will in fact fit my RS10 wheels on the CAAD10. Let me know if there are any kits that are recommended in this forum.
Thanks for the tip on the Cinturato. I doubt LBS will have it, but I'll call around today before ordering online.
Thanks for the tip on the Cinturato. I doubt LBS will have it, but I'll call around today before ordering online.
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Excelsius I wouldn’t muck around with a “tubeless conversion kit” if I were you. Heck, ai wouldn’t do it myself, and I’ve been on road tubeless for about seven years now. There’s too much to go wrong hacking it; get a tubeless compatible wheelset or forget it, that’s my advice.
My suggestion to you is to get a pair of Schwalbe Aerothan inner tubes and pair them up to the Pirelli Cinturato Velos or some other tire as you prefer. As noted upthread, TPU tubes like Aerothan are lighter than standard tubes, more puncture and flat resistant, and have lower rolling resistance.
My suggestion to you is to get a pair of Schwalbe Aerothan inner tubes and pair them up to the Pirelli Cinturato Velos or some other tire as you prefer. As noted upthread, TPU tubes like Aerothan are lighter than standard tubes, more puncture and flat resistant, and have lower rolling resistance.
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Excelsius I wouldn’t muck around with a “tubeless conversion kit” if I were you. Heck, ai wouldn’t do it myself, and I’ve been on road tubeless for about seven years now. There’s too much to go wrong hacking it; get a tubeless compatible wheelset or forget it, that’s my advice.
My suggestion to you is to get a pair of Schwalbe Aerothan inner tubes and pair them up to the Pirelli Cinturato Velos or some other tire as you prefer. As noted upthread, TPU tubes like Aerothan are lighter than standard tubes, more puncture and flat resistant, and have lower rolling resistance.
My suggestion to you is to get a pair of Schwalbe Aerothan inner tubes and pair them up to the Pirelli Cinturato Velos or some other tire as you prefer. As noted upthread, TPU tubes like Aerothan are lighter than standard tubes, more puncture and flat resistant, and have lower rolling resistance.
Aerothan is an interesting concept, but at $30/piece plus inability to repair, I'm not sure it's a good investment. If the tire is protecting from flats already, not sure if the tube would be important because if anything can get through a tough tire, the tube wouldn't stand a chance. But I would have to buy new tubes since the ones I have only cover up to 25mm. Maybe if there are cheaper alternatives, wouldn't hurt if the tube is somewhat puncture resistant as well.
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Just put Pirelli Velos on my bike 2 days ago. I’ve put 20 miles on them…and am really liking them so far
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Catching up after a while: Puncture resistant tires, shoes
To the topic: puncture resistant ... shoes. I've got 'em. Not great riding and they weigh a lot but if a fight breaks out after too many beers, really good for **** kicking! Steel toed work boots. Carolinas. All day comfortable. Good looking leather. Toe and sole completely resistant to glass, debris and goat heads.
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Are you aware of particular issues for the conversion? From what I read, it seems all rims should be "TLR".
Aerothan is an interesting concept, but at $30/piece plus inability to repair, I'm not sure it's a good investment. If the tire is protecting from flats already, not sure if the tube would be important because if anything can get through a tough tire, the tube wouldn't stand a chance. But I would have to buy new tubes since the ones I have only cover up to 25mm. Maybe if there are cheaper alternatives, wouldn't hurt if the tube is somewhat puncture resistant as well.
Aerothan is an interesting concept, but at $30/piece plus inability to repair, I'm not sure it's a good investment. If the tire is protecting from flats already, not sure if the tube would be important because if anything can get through a tough tire, the tube wouldn't stand a chance. But I would have to buy new tubes since the ones I have only cover up to 25mm. Maybe if there are cheaper alternatives, wouldn't hurt if the tube is somewhat puncture resistant as well.
Aerothan can be patched with glueless (i.e. self-adhesive) patches per Schwalbe.
The Pirelli Cinturato Velo is impressively puncture resistant, but it's not puncture proof, nor is it flat-proof. I don't believe it is true that if an object penetrates the tire, the tube necessarily will be punctured; there are a lot of factors at play there, but if the tube is resilient enough to deform around the intrusion, it won't puncture, and Schwalbe reports Aerothan can resist the intrusion of a 1mm plunger with far greater force than any other tube material, and for a distance equivalent to latex tubes.
Whether the extra protection is worth $30/tube is a fair question, but the cost also includes reduced rolling resistance and substantial weight savings compared to typical (butyl) tubes. I weighed a Specialized 20-28c tube at 113g, while Aerothan for that size is 41g, saving 144g per pair (pretty close to 1/3lbs), which is a whopping return for my money. Again, whether any of that is worth $60 to you is for you to decide, but when comparing to tubeless setup costs, don't forget to factor in the fixed cost of rim tape, sealant, and valves. It may only be like a $20 premium to run Aerothan.
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Excelsius I wouldn’t muck around with a “tubeless conversion kit” if I were you. Heck, ai wouldn’t do it myself, and I’ve been on road tubeless for about seven years now. There’s too much to go wrong hacking it; get a tubeless compatible wheelset or forget it, that’s my advice.
My suggestion to you is to get a pair of Schwalbe Aerothan inner tubes and pair them up to the Pirelli Cinturato Velos or some other tire as you prefer. As noted upthread, TPU tubes like Aerothan are lighter than standard tubes, more puncture and flat resistant, and have lower rolling resistance.
My suggestion to you is to get a pair of Schwalbe Aerothan inner tubes and pair them up to the Pirelli Cinturato Velos or some other tire as you prefer. As noted upthread, TPU tubes like Aerothan are lighter than standard tubes, more puncture and flat resistant, and have lower rolling resistance.
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The possible problems are myriad and not exclusively to do with conversion of standard rims. Just take a quick look for tubeless setup topics, and you'll find plenty to be concerned about. That's not to say you cannot and won't get a combo which sets up perfectly, but there's a chance a may not, and you could find yourself struggling to make things work, which could include a problem like slow leak-down on the road. With only a month or so until RAGBRAI, speaking as a longtime road tubeless user who just reverse converted one of my five tubeless setups to tubes (granted, due to the tires), I wouldn't risk the stress.
Aerothan can be patched with glueless (i.e. self-adhesive) patches per Schwalbe.
The Pirelli Cinturato Velo is impressively puncture resistant, but it's not puncture proof, nor is it flat-proof. I don't believe it is true that if an object penetrates the tire, the tube necessarily will be punctured; there are a lot of factors at play there, but if the tube is resilient enough to deform around the intrusion, it won't puncture, and Schwalbe reports Aerothan can resist the intrusion of a 1mm plunger with far greater force than any other tube material, and for a distance equivalent to latex tubes.
Whether the extra protection is worth $30/tube is a fair question, but the cost also includes reduced rolling resistance and substantial weight savings compared to typical (butyl) tubes. I weighed a Specialized 20-28c tube at 113g, while Aerothan for that size is 41g, saving 144g per pair (pretty close to 1/3lbs), which is a whopping return for my money. Again, whether any of that is worth $60 to you is for you to decide, but when comparing to tubeless setup costs, don't forget to factor in the fixed cost of rim tape, sealant, and valves. It may only be like a $20 premium to run Aerothan.
Aerothan can be patched with glueless (i.e. self-adhesive) patches per Schwalbe.
The Pirelli Cinturato Velo is impressively puncture resistant, but it's not puncture proof, nor is it flat-proof. I don't believe it is true that if an object penetrates the tire, the tube necessarily will be punctured; there are a lot of factors at play there, but if the tube is resilient enough to deform around the intrusion, it won't puncture, and Schwalbe reports Aerothan can resist the intrusion of a 1mm plunger with far greater force than any other tube material, and for a distance equivalent to latex tubes.
Whether the extra protection is worth $30/tube is a fair question, but the cost also includes reduced rolling resistance and substantial weight savings compared to typical (butyl) tubes. I weighed a Specialized 20-28c tube at 113g, while Aerothan for that size is 41g, saving 144g per pair (pretty close to 1/3lbs), which is a whopping return for my money. Again, whether any of that is worth $60 to you is for you to decide, but when comparing to tubeless setup costs, don't forget to factor in the fixed cost of rim tape, sealant, and valves. It may only be like a $20 premium to run Aerothan.
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For shoes, just picked up Shimano XC7, a tad more but very comfortable. Features Boa tech and carbon midsole. My old Shimano MTB shoes are comfy also, so I stuck with Shimano.
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Well, XC7 is over $200, more than twice the cost of Torch 1.0. I picked it up today for $109, which is closer to my budget. On the other hand, I did go all in on a bike computer and finally upgraded by Edge 500 to Edge 830. Can't wait to try out the navigation when it arrives tomorrow. I've been relying on my phone and google maps, but it hasn't worked well when I get off the path.
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Well, XC7 is over $200, more than twice the cost of Torch 1.0. I picked it up today for $109, which is closer to my budget. On the other hand, I did go all in on a bike computer and finally upgraded by Edge 500 to Edge 830. Can't wait to try out the navigation when it arrives tomorrow. I've been relying on my phone and google maps, but it hasn't worked well when I get off the path.
I also have the XC7, been riding them for 6 months and they are fantastic. Would be worth a look even though they are over the budget. Also, Lordgun has Pirelli's in stock and they shipped ridiculously fast from Italy. I got my P Zero Race Classics in 28mm in 3 days. I live on the east coast.
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Brian | 2023 Trek Domane SLR 7 AXS | 2023 Trek CheckPoint SL 7 AXS | 2016 Trek Emonda ALR | 2022 Trek FX Sport 5
Brian | 2023 Trek Domane SLR 7 AXS | 2023 Trek CheckPoint SL 7 AXS | 2016 Trek Emonda ALR | 2022 Trek FX Sport 5
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I also have the XC7, been riding them for 6 months and they are fantastic. Would be worth a look even though they are over the budget. Also, Lordgun has Pirelli's in stock and they shipped ridiculously fast from Italy. I got my P Zero Race Classics in 28mm in 3 days. I live on the east coast.
Nah, my cheaper Diadora D-skin shoes have served me well. Don't recall the exact model, but they were sub $90 when I bought 9 or so years ago. Sometimes I just hop on my bike even with my running sneakers for sub 30 mile trail rides. I can return the Toch 1.0 if I don't like them during the ride, which I have yet to try. The cleat setup is a bit of PIA to get right.
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I replaced them quite quickly with Fizik R4 Tempo (Wide fit) and find these far more comfortable. They are slightly less stiff, but I find that a good thing for longer rides. They breathe better too and the uppers are generally more comfortable. They have a single Boa, but it's the more advanced type that micro-adjusts in both directions. The RC7 Boas only micro adjust tighter, so if you over-tighten them you have to completely release them and start again. Not a big deal, but worth knowing.