squarefour

Hi.

I've just fitted a Swytch bike kit to my bike. Whilst I am pleased with results, there is one problem: I have a Cateye wireless speedo fitted to the bike, with the sensor on the front wheel. When the electric motor in the Swytch wheel is running, the speedo no longer works: it drops to 0mph. If I then switch off the motor via the power pack the speedo starts working again. Similarly, when pedalling with the motor running the speedo stops working, but as soon as I stop pedalling, it starts working again.

I can only assume that the Swytch motor is interfering with the wireless signal to the speedo. Any ideas on how to solve this?

2old

I'd try moving the sensor to the other side of the wheel (might or not work).

classic carl

Buy a GPS bike computer. I recently did, and I'm never going back. I took the wireless/magnetic computers off of all of my bikes. I use the Wahoo ELEMNT Bolt on all of them.

mcmoose

Yes, likely electrical interference. I had that happen with a Cat Eye and a headlight! putting some distance between them (i.e., the light and the main Cat Eye unit) solved that problem. But if adding distance (and/or shielding) doesn't fit your problem, you may need to go the route CC suggested and migrate to GPS technology.
Good luck!

Doc_Wui

Turning on my Cree LED light would hammer the wireless in my $10 bike speedometer, So I went to a $8 wired speedometer to solve that issue.

leob1

Definitely RF interference, I used to use a Cateye Micro wireless, it didn't work when I used my front light, and it went nuts when I close to some automatic doors. The speed would bounce around when I was standing still, 15,45,25,75, etc.
I now use a Cateye Stealth, a GPS unit. It works great, no interference. And I can switch it between bikes, it makes life easier.

MNebiker

I had the exact same issue with a Cree LED light. The computer pickup was on the left fork leg so I moved the light to the right of the stem so the light and computer head were separated as far as possible. No further issues.

All the Swytch components are up front and on the bar so the interference would be strongest there. I don't know how much range the Cateye has but it might be worth moving the sender unit to a seat stay. Sounds iffy, but who knows, if might be a no-cost fix.

fooferdoggie 

better yet the other wheel sounds like all kinds of electrical noise from the motor.

bicarb

I had the same problem with my Swytch bike and velo wireless +. Resolved it by moving sensor to rear wheel and display to crossbar approx 100mm from the front of the seat. Not ideal, but it's a fix I'm going with.