derailleur hanger keeps going out of true
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derailleur hanger keeps going out of true
I have a CAAD10 with 6870 di2 (11 speed) and the derailleur hanger keeps going out of true. The rear derailleur will graze the spokes of my back wheel - very worrisome.
I could replace the derailleur hanger, is there anything else I should look for?
Thanks.
I could replace the derailleur hanger, is there anything else I should look for?
Thanks.
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If the hanger has been hit and straightened too many times, it will go soft. Or it could be that the last adjustment just wasn't right. I don't have the bike in front of me so you'll have to figure this out yourself.
If you need a new hanger, go to derailleurhanger.com and look up your bike. Here, I did it for you. https://derailleurhanger.com/manufac...series2011-16/
Even brand new hangers sometimes require small tweaks to align properly, so check this before mounting and adjusting the derailleur.
If you need a new hanger, go to derailleurhanger.com and look up your bike. Here, I did it for you. https://derailleurhanger.com/manufac...series2011-16/
Even brand new hangers sometimes require small tweaks to align properly, so check this before mounting and adjusting the derailleur.
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It's absolutely critical that the hanger is properly pocketed into the frame. Poor support at that interface allows the hanger to move when the QR is tightened.
Of course it might be as simple as your bad habit of dropping the bike on the right side, or otherwise bumping onto the derailleur.
Of course it might be as simple as your bad habit of dropping the bike on the right side, or otherwise bumping onto the derailleur.
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“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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Not knowing the history of the old hanger I would say replace it and get a new hanger from Wheels Manufacturing and make sure you are using a proper hanger alignment tool. Abbey, Efficient Velo Tools, Shimano, Park Tool make excellent quality ones but make sure you know how to use it properly always use the same point on your wheel so you can be accurate. Also I would check that your derailleur isn't damaged if it is routinely hitting the spokes that can also bend things and throw it out of alignment which can cause greater headaches. Also important to make sure your limit screws are properly set.
When installing a new hanger make sure it is properly lubricated or thread locked per manufacturer directions and it is also properly torqued and make sure it is aligned to the frame as it might be perfectly "true" but your frame might not bend it could need some light adjustment to get it set up for your frame.
When installing a new hanger make sure it is properly lubricated or thread locked per manufacturer directions and it is also properly torqued and make sure it is aligned to the frame as it might be perfectly "true" but your frame might not bend it could need some light adjustment to get it set up for your frame.
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Also make sure when you replace the wheel that it's inserted all the way into the dropouts when the quick release is clamped so it doesn't sit differently each time.
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This is the #1 reason to always put the wheel in the bike upright, not upside down. Not to mention it's easier. When someone puts the wheel back in with the bike upside down that's an instant indicator they have no idea what they're doing.
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Even when I install and secure wheels while the bike is in a repair stand, as a final step, I'll always place the bike on the ground, loosen than re-secure the quick-releases to ensure the wheel is sitting in the frame properly. Often, I can feel/see/hear the wheel move into its final resting place.
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