Deep Sigh
#26
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I'd get that MIG or TIG welded for sure. As said, welding would fill in the tapped hole, but it could be drilled out and tapped after. If MIT is too far, maybe someone at RPI?
#27
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Hmmm. I wonder.
I will very closely check the DOs after fixing.
I did not successfully cold set because the stays were like spring steel (wouldn't hold a mm of bend, even after spreading to 165mm, yet relatively easy to spread by hand) and now my check for parallel with a homemade tool feels cursory.
Edit PS
Wouldn't that misalignment become evident while setting up the RD?
I will very closely check the DOs after fixing.
I did not successfully cold set because the stays were like spring steel (wouldn't hold a mm of bend, even after spreading to 165mm, yet relatively easy to spread by hand) and now my check for parallel with a homemade tool feels cursory.
Edit PS
Wouldn't that misalignment become evident while setting up the RD?
Spreading the rear triangle and not properly aligning the dropout faces with each other puts the dropouts at risk, usually the drive side. When I say align, I mean with real tools for the job, not homemade "just as good" threaded rods and such. Again, I'm not saying for certain this is what's happened in your case but from what you've shared so far, it's where I'd put my money.
As far as the repair. I wouldn't settle for anything less than a dropout R&R with the attending alignment and paint work. This will also allow frame builder the chance to look at the other one as well. IMO, that bike is too nice for any other solution.
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Last edited by nomadmax; 03-25-22 at 09:27 AM.
#28
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I've been saying over and over again- stop spreading those frames and stop stuffing 130mm wheels where they don't belong. Leave it at 126mm. Or 120mm if that's where it's at.
#29
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Long drive, but...
Come to Harvard and I'll MIG it for you.
Bring a nice Calvados or green chartreuse and be prepared for an evening of fun.
My prior dropout work is here. I'm confident I can do this. Super easy, especially if you can forego the adjuster. I can redrill and tap the adjuster as well, just a bit more work.
Come to Harvard and I'll MIG it for you.
Bring a nice Calvados or green chartreuse and be prepared for an evening of fun.
My prior dropout work is here. I'm confident I can do this. Super easy, especially if you can forego the adjuster. I can redrill and tap the adjuster as well, just a bit more work.
For future reference I'll add that I've seen a chromed dropout TIG welded with stainless wire. In the hands of a skilled welder the repair is almost invisible.
Brent
#30
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Yup, repair for sure. I've seen some battered frames brought back to life. This one is minor compared to that. Glad you were not injured .
#31
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I’m definitely in the repair camp. It will feel good when it’s done, and you’ve got a built in support group.
Sh*t happens, and especially with old bikes (at least in my experience.) But my understanding is that Prestige steel isn’t great with cold setting. How that might effect a dropout I don’t know.
Sh*t happens, and especially with old bikes (at least in my experience.) But my understanding is that Prestige steel isn’t great with cold setting. How that might effect a dropout I don’t know.