Help me understand square taper spindle length
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Help me understand square taper spindle length
Hi all,
If I want to move my chainline inward 3mm and my bottom bracket spindle is 114mm, am I correct in thinking that a 111mm spindle will achieve this goal? Is that how spindle length works or does the non-drive side factor into it as well?
(I realize there is more than one way to adjust my chainline, but I'm shopping for a new bottom bracket and want to get the correct spindle length for my application.)
Thanks in advance!
If I want to move my chainline inward 3mm and my bottom bracket spindle is 114mm, am I correct in thinking that a 111mm spindle will achieve this goal? Is that how spindle length works or does the non-drive side factor into it as well?
(I realize there is more than one way to adjust my chainline, but I'm shopping for a new bottom bracket and want to get the correct spindle length for my application.)
Thanks in advance!
#2
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Both sides factor into the spindle length…depending on how far out from the BB your want the cranks. Remember you have to consider that going narrower will cause the crank be closer to the chain stays. You don’t want it to hit them. Perhaps this Sheldon Brown page will be of assistance to you. Good luck.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html
Dan
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html
Dan
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Maybe. Depends on how the current axle is dimensioned and how the replacement is. If the old axle is symmetrical and the replacement is also than the new axle will need to be 8mm shorter. But not all BB axles are symmetrical, often with loose ball tapered square axles the drive side has more stand off from the bearing surface on the drive side than the LH side has.
This is where some measurements are worth many words of explanation. Even with good measurements and a good understanding as to where a replacement axle is different one can find that the numbers don't produce the best fit. This is why having a few axles to try can be a time saver.
Of course this answer is full of assumptions due to missing description and data. Andy
This is where some measurements are worth many words of explanation. Even with good measurements and a good understanding as to where a replacement axle is different one can find that the numbers don't produce the best fit. This is why having a few axles to try can be a time saver.
Of course this answer is full of assumptions due to missing description and data. Andy
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Thanks!
I want to use a road double as a 1x, moving the big ring inward with no small ring. (I don't want to simply move the big ring to the small ring position on the spider for aesthetic reasons.)
I want to use a road double as a 1x, moving the big ring inward with no small ring. (I don't want to simply move the big ring to the small ring position on the spider for aesthetic reasons.)
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Make sure that the crank spider tabs don't contact the stay. Depending on various aspects/shapes the OEM inner ring's teeth might not be to closest part to the stay. Andy
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Maybe. Depends on how the current axle is dimensioned and how the replacement is. If the old axle is symmetrical and the replacement is also than the new axle will need to be 8mm shorter. But not all BB axles are symmetrical, often with loose ball tapered square axles the drive side has more stand off from the bearing surface on the drive side than the LH side has.
This is where some measurements are worth many words of explanation. Even with good measurements and a good understanding as to where a replacement axle is different one can find that the numbers don't produce the best fit. This is why having a few axles to try can be a time saver.
Of course this answer is full of assumptions due to missing description and data. Andy
This is where some measurements are worth many words of explanation. Even with good measurements and a good understanding as to where a replacement axle is different one can find that the numbers don't produce the best fit. This is why having a few axles to try can be a time saver.
Of course this answer is full of assumptions due to missing description and data. Andy
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If you have the OEM axle still you cam measure the RH end and how long it is from the bearing track. Also how far the axle end is from the center spot between the two bearing tracks. Subtract the 4mm from the drive side end. What is this "new end location" from the bearing tracks' center? Double this and you have what a replacement symmetrical axle length might be. Make sure the LH crank end will clear the stay. Andy
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Otto
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The other factor…that I think others alluded to above but didn’t actually mention…is that if you’re going 1x, and moving the large ring to the inside…there’s a chance that that ring could hit the chain stay. Sometimes that can happen even if you’re not changing to a narrower spindle. So, you should put the large ring on the current spindle to make sure how much clearance you’ll have.
Dan
Dan
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7 speed on the back. I know from riding 2x7 that the small/small combo works but not the big/big, and I intend to essentially do away with the small ring and keep the big one. I want to nudge it in so it will work across all 7 cogs.
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The other factor…that I think others alluded to above but didn’t actually mention…is that if you’re going 1x, and moving the large ring to the inside…there’s a chance that that ring could hit the chain stay. Sometimes that can happen even if you’re not changing to a narrower spindle. So, you should put the large ring on the current spindle to make sure how much clearance you’ll have.
Dan
Dan
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There don't seem to be a lot of choices in ISO bottom brackets anymore, so I'd just buy a 111mm unit and see how it goes. If it doesn't work, you ought to be able to find a buyer in C&V or the fixed-gear forum.
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