Geometry comparison: Bridgestone SL6 vs CAAD 10 vs Emonda ALR
#1
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Geometry comparison: Bridgestone SL6 vs CAAD 10 vs Emonda ALR
Hi Guys,
Shopping around for my first serious road bike. I will be using this bike for training, criteriums (when they finally get organized again in my area) and the occasional mountain climb or long and scenic weekend ride (long for me is about 70k). I have never formally raced before and currently ride around 240ish KM (150miles) a week at a reasonably fast pace for fitness. I enjoy the sprint side of cycling as well as aggressive geometry. I currently ride a really aggressive track frame and have tried endurance geometry from some of my friends bikes and found them to be less interesting to me. Carbon is out of scope for now since I am still quite heavy from powerlifting at 240lbs (108kg). I have narrowed my choices down to a Trek Emonda ALR, Cannondale CAAD 10 or 12 (not a fan of the 13 cosmetically) or a Bridgestone SL6. My criteria was based on 1. aluminum frame 2. race oriented geometry 3. 105 or ultegra, ideally 11 speed for ~1000 USD 4. available 2nd hand in decent shape. My question is on geometry.
My no. 1 choice right now is the Bridgestone SL6, The geometry for a size 52 seat tube, 55 top tube is as follows:
Head tube length - 14
Head tube angle - 73°00'
Seat tube angle - 73°45'
offset - 4.5
Front center - 58.8
Rear center - 41.0
BB drop 7.0
Wheelbase - 98.7
Stack - 54.6
Reach - 39.1
Compared to a CAAD 10 size 54 or 56 (Geometry Details: Cannondale CAAD10 2015 (geometrygeeks.bike)) or an Emonda ALR (Émonda ALR 5 | Trek Bikes), would there be any substantial differences in handling and acceleration? I ask because from what I have read it is the interaction of several factors that determine the handling and acceleration of the bike. Since I have limited experience with this, I cannot seem to visualize how these geometry numbers will make the bike feel. Thoughts?
Thanks,
Fish
Shopping around for my first serious road bike. I will be using this bike for training, criteriums (when they finally get organized again in my area) and the occasional mountain climb or long and scenic weekend ride (long for me is about 70k). I have never formally raced before and currently ride around 240ish KM (150miles) a week at a reasonably fast pace for fitness. I enjoy the sprint side of cycling as well as aggressive geometry. I currently ride a really aggressive track frame and have tried endurance geometry from some of my friends bikes and found them to be less interesting to me. Carbon is out of scope for now since I am still quite heavy from powerlifting at 240lbs (108kg). I have narrowed my choices down to a Trek Emonda ALR, Cannondale CAAD 10 or 12 (not a fan of the 13 cosmetically) or a Bridgestone SL6. My criteria was based on 1. aluminum frame 2. race oriented geometry 3. 105 or ultegra, ideally 11 speed for ~1000 USD 4. available 2nd hand in decent shape. My question is on geometry.
My no. 1 choice right now is the Bridgestone SL6, The geometry for a size 52 seat tube, 55 top tube is as follows:
Head tube length - 14
Head tube angle - 73°00'
Seat tube angle - 73°45'
offset - 4.5
Front center - 58.8
Rear center - 41.0
BB drop 7.0
Wheelbase - 98.7
Stack - 54.6
Reach - 39.1
Compared to a CAAD 10 size 54 or 56 (Geometry Details: Cannondale CAAD10 2015 (geometrygeeks.bike)) or an Emonda ALR (Émonda ALR 5 | Trek Bikes), would there be any substantial differences in handling and acceleration? I ask because from what I have read it is the interaction of several factors that determine the handling and acceleration of the bike. Since I have limited experience with this, I cannot seem to visualize how these geometry numbers will make the bike feel. Thoughts?
Thanks,
Fish
#2
Senior Member
Compare the stack and reach. Reach can only be compared at the same stack height. If one frame has a 20mm shorter stack, then subtract 6mm from the reach before comparing the two.
#3
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What about the BMC Roadmachine ALR?
Or Scott Addicts new AL
or
Specialized Allez?
I don’t believe the Emonda ALR is really aggressive. It’s closer to an HI3 fit which is very relaxed. I have friends that race it and like it, but it’s not “aggressive”
Or Scott Addicts new AL
or
Specialized Allez?
I don’t believe the Emonda ALR is really aggressive. It’s closer to an HI3 fit which is very relaxed. I have friends that race it and like it, but it’s not “aggressive”
#4
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I don't know why carbon bikes are out of the picture for your 240 lbs any more than aluminum, steel or Ti bikes. Though for your first road bike you might be better served to get a lower tier bike so you'll have more money to put up for your second road bike when you have some experience with the first and know better what you want.
Just decide whether you want a race fit or a relaxed fit and look at frame stack once you know what that fit is you want. If you are going to be doing long rides, then stick to something classed as a road bike whether it's relaxed or race fit you want. A tri bike or a TT bike wouldn't be my choice for long rides.
Any name brand sold by bike shops will be a good bike. Specialized, Cannondale, Giant and Trek are common around here.
Just decide whether you want a race fit or a relaxed fit and look at frame stack once you know what that fit is you want. If you are going to be doing long rides, then stick to something classed as a road bike whether it's relaxed or race fit you want. A tri bike or a TT bike wouldn't be my choice for long rides.
Any name brand sold by bike shops will be a good bike. Specialized, Cannondale, Giant and Trek are common around here.
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Any big name carbon fiber frame should be fine. 240 isn't really that heavy. A friend raced cat 3 at 265 and another raced track and road at 265 and higher. I've known lots of big guys who ride cf bikes. The wheels are usually the weak link.
As for geometry obviously the fit is the most important thing, you need to be comfortable and not create any overuse injuries. The other stuff, head angle, chainstay length, etc. isn't all that important imho. I prefer steep head tubes and quick handling but I'm fine on slack bikes. There's just not that much difference in modern bikes.
What I mean is they will all work and can be fun to ride. They can feel different but only you can decide which feel you like.
I think the CAAD bikes are fine, btw.
As for geometry obviously the fit is the most important thing, you need to be comfortable and not create any overuse injuries. The other stuff, head angle, chainstay length, etc. isn't all that important imho. I prefer steep head tubes and quick handling but I'm fine on slack bikes. There's just not that much difference in modern bikes.
What I mean is they will all work and can be fun to ride. They can feel different but only you can decide which feel you like.
I think the CAAD bikes are fine, btw.
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Any big name carbon fiber frame should be fine. 240 isn't really that heavy. A friend raced cat 3 at 265 and another raced track and road at 265 and higher. I've known lots of big guys who ride cf bikes. The wheels are usually the weak link.
As for geometry obviously the fit is the most important thing, you need to be comfortable and not create any overuse injuries. The other stuff, head angle, chainstay length, etc. isn't all that important imho. I prefer steep head tubes and quick handling but I'm fine on slack bikes. There's just not that much difference in modern bikes.
What I mean is they will all work and can be fun to ride. They can feel different but only you can decide which feel you like.
I think the CAAD bikes are fine, btw.
As for geometry obviously the fit is the most important thing, you need to be comfortable and not create any overuse injuries. The other stuff, head angle, chainstay length, etc. isn't all that important imho. I prefer steep head tubes and quick handling but I'm fine on slack bikes. There's just not that much difference in modern bikes.
What I mean is they will all work and can be fun to ride. They can feel different but only you can decide which feel you like.
I think the CAAD bikes are fine, btw.
l still plan on switching to Aluminum for crits.
Don’t race anything you can’t afford to replace….
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I had a CAAD5 and put 30K miles on it. Great handling bike but a harsh ride on the rough roads.
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My CAAD 4 was nice, just too small. I honestly don’t think it’s any harsher than my cervelo.
The steel rides the best out of all my bikes.
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#10
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Edit: If you look at the numbers compared to the Madone, they are very similar, but the emonda has a slightly longer headtube.
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Brian | 2023 Trek Domane SLR 7 AXS | 2023 Trek CheckPoint SL 7 AXS | 2016 Trek Emonda ALR | 2022 Trek FX Sport 5
Brian | 2023 Trek Domane SLR 7 AXS | 2023 Trek CheckPoint SL 7 AXS | 2016 Trek Emonda ALR | 2022 Trek FX Sport 5
Last edited by jaxgtr; 05-12-22 at 10:50 PM.
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#11
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The Emonda ALR is fairly aggressive and is a H1.5 fit, and you can flip the stem and cut the fork to remove extras spacers if you wanted to get that slammed feeling. I ran mine for years with the stem flipped giving me a more aero position and it gave me a very fast ride. I recently flipped it to a more upright after an accident to make it just a tad bit more comfortable as I work my back out and get some flexibility back, then I will flip it back to the more aggressive position.
Edit: If you look at the numbers compared to the Madone, they are very similar, but the emonda has a slightly longer headtube.
Edit: If you look at the numbers compared to the Madone, they are very similar, but the emonda has a slightly longer headtube.
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No problem, so many bikes, so many numbers. could have been the Domane...
#13
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I don't know why carbon bikes are out of the picture for your 240 lbs any more than aluminum, steel or Ti bikes. Though for your first road bike you might be better served to get a lower tier bike so you'll have more money to put up for your second road bike when you have some experience with the first and know better what you want.
Just decide whether you want a race fit or a relaxed fit and look at frame stack once you know what that fit is you want. If you are going to be doing long rides, then stick to something classed as a road bike whether it's relaxed or race fit you want. A tri bike or a TT bike wouldn't be my choice for long rides.
Any name brand sold by bike shops will be a good bike. Specialized, Cannondale, Giant and Trek are common around here.
Just decide whether you want a race fit or a relaxed fit and look at frame stack once you know what that fit is you want. If you are going to be doing long rides, then stick to something classed as a road bike whether it's relaxed or race fit you want. A tri bike or a TT bike wouldn't be my choice for long rides.
Any name brand sold by bike shops will be a good bike. Specialized, Cannondale, Giant and Trek are common around here.
Was looking at some Giant bikes too but for the price I am finding that a used Cannondale and the like is offering me more value overall. How racey would you say the Emonda is? Is it purely a comfort thing or is there a substantial enough performance difference? I am leaning towards the Bridgestone/Cannonale with the Emonda being the more comfort end of the spectrum (just so I have options). I do like the way the Emonda looks over the Cannondale though (+5mph ).