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How Much New is Too Much for You?

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Old 04-09-22, 09:24 AM
  #101  
rekmeyata
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Originally Posted by Rolla
Cool that you got to participate in that experiment! I think manufacturers have addressed brake/rotor overheating since then, with what success I don't know.
I doubt they have made that much progress in getting rid of the heat, the surface area is too small on bike brakes to accomplish a whole lot, and even if they have disk brakes won't stop any faster on dry roads than rim brakes. Which when I did the experiment I already knew they didn't stop any better, how's that you scream? Because stopping power is all about the tire's adhesion to the pavement, once you are at max braking, which is what I was proving to my friend who didn't believe me because he read all the hype, its about tire adhesion and nothing more, you learn this stuff when you race cars. Sure you could argue that a pair of cheap $20 rim brakes on a Walmart bike the calipers will flex, but really all that does is delay the braking response by maybe a half a second because even those brakes are capable of locking up the tires. So it boils down to how slippery are your tires and how slippery is the pavement, some tires may be better in the rain and some maybe better in the dry, the brakes aren't going to matter that much if all things are equal. Even if rim brakes get wet, after one revolution of the rim while the brake is contacting the rim the pad has swiped away the water and now you have braking action, the same thing is true with disk brakes! Ever been to a car wash or drove into a big puddle of standing water and notice your DISK brakes were not working that great until you apply the brakes enough to wipe the water off the rotors? sure you have, we all have, yet somehow we think water doesn't effect rim brakes. The only real advantage to disk brakes on a bike is that if you are riding through standing water that is high enough to submerge the rims, well that won't happen with the disks.
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Old 04-09-22, 09:42 AM
  #102  
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Originally Posted by rekmeyata
Even if rim brakes get wet, after one revolution of the rim while the brake is contacting the rim the pad has swiped away the water and now you have braking action
I haven't found this to be the case; when riding in a constant rain (as opposed to through a puddle), braking ability remains significantly diminished.

Originally Posted by rekmeyata
The only real advantage to disk brakes on a bike is that if you are riding through standing water that is high enough to submerge the rims, well that won't happen with the disks.
I think there are other advantages, including a lighter touch at the lever and the ability to brake well if the rim gets significantly out of true. In the end, I find their performance to be confidence-inspiring in all conditions, and I would choose to spec disc brakes on any bike I purchase going forward. Others can and should make their own determination for their own specific needs, of course.

Anyway, I'm not here to argue this overly-debated topic. Cheers, and thanks for your participation.

Last edited by Rolla; 04-09-22 at 09:47 AM.
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Old 04-09-22, 11:49 AM
  #103  
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Originally Posted by rekmeyata
The only real advantage to disk brakes on a bike is that if you are riding through standing water that is high enough to submerge the rims, well that won't happen with the disks.
For me the main advantages of disk brakes has nothing to do with stopping power...It has to do with saving rims from wearing out.
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Old 04-09-22, 12:54 PM
  #104  
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Originally Posted by Rolla
I haven't found this to be the case; when riding in a constant rain (as opposed to through a puddle), braking ability remains significantly diminished.



I think there are other advantages, including a lighter touch at the lever and the ability to brake well if the rim gets significantly out of true. In the end, I find their performance to be confidence-inspiring in all conditions, and I would choose to spec disc brakes on any bike I purchase going forward. Others can and should make their own determination for their own specific needs, of course.

Anyway, I'm not here to argue this overly-debated topic. Cheers, and thanks for your participation.
IF it's raining a lot the disk rotors also get wet which diminishes the performance of disk brakes, which I already addressed that, and I own a bike with disk brakes. And if you use KoolStop Salmon pads with rim brakes you won't experience what you experienced with your rim brakes. If your wheel gets significantly out of true, as you worded it, the wheel won't pass between the fork blades anyways.

I'm not arguing about this subject either, just stating the facts, CHEERS to you to.
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Old 04-09-22, 01:08 PM
  #105  
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Originally Posted by rekmeyata
IF it's raining a lot the disk rotors also get wet which diminishes the performance of disk brakes, which I already addressed that, and I own a bike with disk brakes. And if you use KoolStop Salmon pads with rim brakes you won't experience what you experienced with your rim brakes. If your wheel gets significantly out of true, as you worded it, the wheel won't pass between the fork blades anyways.

I'm not arguing about this subject either, just stating the facts
Simply put, your facts don't correspond with my experience. I've seen plenty of wheels out of true enough to affect rim brake functionality while still being able to clear the fork blades. And I do run salmon pads on my rim brake bikes; they're quite expertly adjusted, but they still don't stop as well as disc brakes in the rain. Glad you are satisfied with yours.
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Old 04-09-22, 01:14 PM
  #106  
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Originally Posted by rekmeyata
IF it's raining a lot the disk rotors also get wet which diminishes the performance of disk brakes, which I already addressed that, and I own a bike with disk brakes.
I'm not arguing about this subject either, just stating the facts, CHEERS to you to.

I might've have sided with this, but hydraulic disk brakes have the likelihood of smashing the piston thru the pads... pending nothing in the system breaks beforehand. Have you tried hydraulic disk brakes?
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Old 04-09-22, 07:11 PM
  #107  
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Just a brief safety reminder to all riders that for both rim and disk brake systems, both systems will be traction-limited in many of the more challenging braking situations, typically when cornering.

Always remember that the instantaneous total of braking forces and cornering forces can’t exceed the traction force or you will lose a wheel and likely fall. Now back to the off-topic wrangling over rim vs disk brakes….

Otto

Last edited by ofajen; 04-09-22 at 08:26 PM.
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Old 04-09-22, 09:41 PM
  #108  
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Originally Posted by rekmeyata
Back in 2018 or 19 I actually tested my Lynskey road bike with rim brakes against a guy who bought a brand new bike with hydro disk brakes to see who would stop the fastest. I had 23mm tire on the front and 25 on the rear Vittoria Rubino tires, he had Conti 4000s 25 mm tires all round; I had Shimano 105 rim brakes, my pads were Kool Stop Salmon, and he had DA Hydro disks with factory pads; the total weight of our bikes and body weights were within 5 pounds of each other; we inflated our tires according a tire calculator for a our size of tires and weight; the only rule we had was that we had to stay on our seat and not slide our butts off the back of the saddle to put more weight on the rear this way there was no ability of one person being able to slide further off the rear than the other person could. The test was going to be 3 sets of 3 runs, 1st run was at 15 mph, the 2nd at 20, and the third at 25. The results were interesting, on the first 2 sets we stopped within a foot of each other, sometimes I stopped a tad faster and sometimes he did, that was probably due to reaction time variance; the last set got interesting, the first stop I stopped about a foot and half faster, not a big deal but the second stop I stopped about 3 feet faster, and the last stop I was nearly 7 feet shorter. What happened we asked ourselves? so he touched his front disk rotor and singed his finger and left a whitish burn mark, but didn't singe his finger when he touched my rim though it was hot. What we determined was that the smaller rotor could not dissipate the heat as fast as the much larger rim could and thus he suffered brake fade. The reality is that all a rim represents is a disk, thus rim brakes are actually disk brakes, but the size of rim allows for more surface cooling and thus less chances for brake fade.
Doubtful. An 80 kg rider on a 10 kg bike traveling at 11 m/s (25 mph) has a kinetic energy of 5445 J. In an absolute worst-case scenario, where all that energy is dumped into one (i.e. front) 100g brake rotor and the rotor does not dissipate any heat to the surrounding air, the temperature of the rotor would increase about 115°C. That's very unlikely to cause brake fade. And, if the rear brake contributes some braking and the rotors dissipate heat to the surrounding air, the temperature increase is even less.
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Old 04-09-22, 10:23 PM
  #109  
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Originally Posted by tomato coupe
Doubtful. An 80 kg rider on a 10 kg bike traveling at 11 m/s (25 mph) has a kinetic energy of 5445 J. In an absolute worst-case scenario, where all that energy is dumped into one (i.e. front) 100g brake rotor and the rotor does not dissipate any heat to the surrounding air, the temperature of the rotor would increase about 115°C. That's very unlikely to cause brake fade. And, if the rear brake contributes some braking and the rotors dissipate heat to the surrounding air, the temperature increase is even less.
Believe whatever the falk you want, but until you try the experiment yourself don't bother commenting! good nite.
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Old 04-09-22, 10:30 PM
  #110  
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Originally Posted by rekmeyata
Believe whatever the falk you want, but until you try the experiment yourself don't bother commenting! good nite.
I don't have to repeat the experiment to know that physics doesn't support your conclusion that brake fade was responsible for the observed difference.
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Old 04-10-22, 06:19 AM
  #111  
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It's all a matter of practicality and personal taste. New innovations are helpful and nice - but do/get the ones that make you happy and increase your cycling joy --
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Old 04-10-22, 09:23 AM
  #112  
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Nearly every person I know who has raced on steep descents has blown a tire from rim heat or wrecked because someone blew from heat directly in front of them.

That cat 3 peloton stunk of sunscreen and burning brakes.

I don’t race anymore but I’ve lined up a times for fun in recent years. With the predominance of discs, this doesn’t seem to happen anymore.

Why isn’t this an issue on descents for the pro peloton? I don’t know, maybe they aren’t on their brakes as much.

I’ve certainly stopped on a descent and touched my braking surface out of curiosity. The smoking hot rim worried me a lot more than the rotor that melted my glove.

Once I got the hang of hydro discs, I realized they’re way easier than any rim brake to adjust.

As far as technology I won’t mess with, I don’t know. I like steel bikes but would try other materials if I felt the urge. My cable and electric shifting systems both work great.

I think for my infrequent riding, I can’t really justify power meters. If I was able to ride and actually train consistently, I’d be all over it.
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Old 04-10-22, 11:33 AM
  #113  
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I dont ride bikes newer than 1975. Euro parts only. 5 speed freewheels...6 speeds are cheating. Sew-ups preferably. Reynolds 531 or french gaspipe. Centerpull rim brakes for the win.
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Old 04-10-22, 11:51 AM
  #114  
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New stuff is great, but I don't use anything that hasn't been invented yet.
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Old 04-10-22, 11:55 AM
  #115  
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I like it all...love discs though my current bike has rim brakes. I preferred my disc brakes. I love tubeless but could use tubes since our roads are pretty good. Still, I prefer tubeless. I prefer thru-axles. I'd also use a light wireless dropper when a good one comes out- for those long steep fast multi-mile downhills.
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Old 04-10-22, 12:00 PM
  #116  
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Originally Posted by big chainring
I dont ride bikes newer than 1975. Euro parts only. 5 speed freewheels...6 speeds are cheating. Sew-ups preferably. Reynolds 531 or french gaspipe. Centerpull rim brakes for the win.
Just wondering how old is your oldest car? Does it have disc brakes?
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Old 04-10-22, 06:21 PM
  #117  
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New is not necessarily better. New things have to prove themselves.

OTOH in the cycling community for quite a while anything new is despised and and put down. I remember the resistance to click shifting, and of course disc brakes.

Then of course there still has been little acceptance of recumbent bikes and trikes by the "real cyclist", even with their many advantages.
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Old 04-10-22, 07:09 PM
  #118  
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I stopped at carbon fiber frame, Campy 10 spd, aluminum rims / components and expensive tubular tires.

The stuff that results in me going faster than my 27-28mph very short sprint, or 16-17mph solo sustained on a windless flat = just might be more hazardous than beneficial to my old body.
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Old 04-10-22, 08:08 PM
  #119  
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Originally Posted by tomato coupe
New stuff is great, but I don't use anything that hasn't been invented yet.
Lame. That’s so this year. 😊

Otto
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Old 04-10-22, 09:01 PM
  #120  
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Originally Posted by rsbob
Just wondering how old is your oldest car? Does it have disc brakes?
81 Mercedes 240D 4 wheel disc.
77 VW Westfalia front disc, drum rear.
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Old 04-10-22, 10:08 PM
  #121  
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i am drawing the line at e-shifting. It may be fantastic and fast, but I have enough items on the bike to charge now but having the shifting mechanism run out of juice whem I am several miles out or having it throw an error or malfunction. I know what this makes me sound like, but so be it.
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Old 04-10-22, 10:18 PM
  #122  
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Originally Posted by Rolla
Over the last several years, I've seen the light on tubeless tires, thru-axles, dropper posts, and hydraulic disc brakes -- to the point where I can't ever imagine buying a bike that doesn't have these features. But I'm still retro-grouchy about a lot of other things, like carbon frames and wheels, suspension stems, Strava, power meters, and electronic shifting. It's conceivable that I'll eventually come around to some of them, but I'm way past my racing days and I'm quite happy being a steel frame/alloy wheel/cable-actuated luddite.

So I'm curious: What's your limit on bike technology, if you have one? Where do you draw the line on the newfangled, and what old-school stuff do you remain devoted to?

No need to argue, persuade, or ridicule, btw -- we can all respect each other's preferences, right?
Personally I lean heavily towards steel pretty heavily. Current race bike is carbon so I'm not against it but it also doesn't impress me that much as a frame material. My kid's newest race bike is a Milwaukee with steel frame and carbon fork. But I also built it with Sram AXS wireless shifting which I wish they came out with earlier, appreciate the 1x12 on a kid's bike, and even built it with carbon rims since I think they're decent. This doesn't mean I embrace everything.

While I love 1x12 and 2x12, I hate that I had to go with a no name brand to get a shimano hg freehub compatible cassette, going 9 or 10t is just stupid, the smaller cog wears faster and has more drivetrain resistance for no discernible benefit and makes it worse to match with a chainring for Jr rollout.
I'm into the AXS because its easy for the kid to shift and cheap at 200.00 for an integrated road lever that comes with a hydraulic brake already attached while also being completely wireless. I wouldn't bother with other electronic shifting due to the wires and battery packs and all the nonsense included which makes it more complicated than a standard shifting that works flawlessly while also costing an absurd price.
I'd like to get a power meter but the companies have realized there are too many suckers with too much disposable income to make it worth the bother, though if I come in need of a new crank I'd probably also get the AXS crankset, sram picked it right when they sold a rival crankset with integrated powermeter for 350.00, a fair price, just not fair enough to replace otherwise perfect parts over.
Personally if campy comes out with similar stuff at reasonable prices, doesn't have to be rival prices but I'm not paying 400 or more over the cost of the non-electronic version. If power meters come down to proper pricing, I'd get one. I still would never bother with tiny cassette cogs.
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Old 04-11-22, 12:56 AM
  #123  
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Originally Posted by rsbob
i am drawing the line at e-shifting. It may be fantastic and fast, but I have enough items on the bike to charge now but having the shifting mechanism run out of juice whem I am several miles out or having it throw an error or malfunction. I know what this makes me sound like, but so be it.
I also draw the line at e-shifting, mainly because I have this "romantic" notion that shifting should be done by wire.

It of course doesn't bother me that e-shifting exists and who knows if one day I will change my mind.

And whilst it's not "New", I am also very much not in favour of single speed/fixed gear bikes for myself, as one of the magical things to me about bikes, is having multiple gears that best match the terrain you are riding.
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Old 04-11-22, 01:34 AM
  #124  
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Brifters

Brifters to me is high tech. I have one bike with them , on my 90s Basso titanium. All the rest are vintage mountain or road steel bikes .
now never say never . I may still by a new bike for gravel/tour type and try disc brakes.
I doubt I want electronic shifters 🥸
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Old 04-11-22, 01:47 AM
  #125  
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Originally Posted by 63rickert
Fully sealed drive train was produced by Sunbeam 100 years ago. Chain ran in an oil bath. Sunbeams were the most expensive English bike made. Many originals still exist, a few remain in use, the oil bath chaincases are still tight. The famous statue of Sir Richard Elgar with his bicycle - that is his Sunbeam.

Only problem with the Sunbeam was removing rear wheel to change a flat. Of course any who owned one had a mechanic. It was a lot of work. Solution for that would be an arrangement like the Cinelli Bivalent hub. When you opened the quick release on a Cinelli hub and dropped the back wheel the entire drivetrain remained in place. It would not be that difficult to go from there to an enclosed drivetrain on a fairly normal useable bike.

Another feature that would make enclosed drive more useful would be chain and sprockets that did not wear out. Of course simply being enclosed would limit wear considerably. Next step would be reduced chain pitch. Coventry Chain produced 8mm pitch ‘Chainette’ from 1909 to 1939. Thousands of races were won on that chain, most notably by Freddie Grubb and Sir Hubert Oppermann. When Shimano tried this some sixty years later they touted stiffness and completely missed the idea. Coventry used chainwheels and sprockets with a far higher tooth count, which meant smoother operation and far less load and less wear on each tooth. There are a variety of chain designs more efficient and less prone to wear than current bicycle chains but all of them require minimum sprocket tooth count higher than now used by bicycles. With shorter pitch chain the required tooth count would be simple. For most users the result would be chain and sprockets that lasted the life of the bicycle.

There are lots of ways to improve bicycles that are entirely overlooked. Innovations come from the sales department, not from engineers. Customers are easily hypnotized by advertising and accept rubbish that should have been discarded long ago, celebrate novelties of no particular benefit.
Very interesting the stuff you learn here!! I never knew about this enclosed system. I always wonder about this also. Why not improve quality or design . Like even something simple like bearings or hubs that roll better could be an improvement rather then the latest fad..
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