jethro00

As much work as I find myself doing on our 2 tandems, I think it is time to get a Click Torque Wrench.
Most of my bike tools are from Park Tools and they are nice.
But, I have to wonder whether the $125+ for the Pro Tools Click Torque Wrench is really worthwhile, since there are a lot of brands offering one from $30 on up. Also, which is best for use on bikes - 1/4", 3/8", 1/2"?
Please share your experience and suggestions.

Rick

I have the Park TW-5 and TW-6 torque wrenches. They are not the cheapest tools for the job but they are far from the most expensive also. I always look for reputable dealers of tools so if there is a problem you have a way so solve it. Toque range is more important than drive size. You need to know enough about the tools and their specifications before you purchase a tool.

jccaclimber

TLDR: For infrequent home use, the cheap ones will be fine. Drive size doesn't really matter, although it's nice if it matches up with your tools. Remember, you'll need either a set of metric Allen sockets, or a 1/4" socket and set of metric hex bits to drive the screws on a bicycle. I would dial the value back to zero (or the min. value stopping point) and store it in the plastic case it should come with.

Opening the can of worms:
While I grew up using a 5 finger torque wrench on most things, I also grew up with "check on it after first use and snug the loose ones". While the latter isn't a bad idea (except for crank arm bolts, re-tighten once if needed, then ignore them until you remove the crank arm), I will say things just work more reliably and smoothly when a torque wrench is used. If nothing else it gives you a good feel for what the correct torque is. As such, I applaud you on opting for a torque wrench.

Some rambling thoughts on torque wrenches, with a more automotive background (production and R&D):
1. For this application, close is probably close enough.
While I've never tested one, from what I've heard even the Harbor Freight torque wrenches tend to pass their accuracy claims. Those that fail it's usually obvious. The one torque wrench I've seen fail under several thousand cycles was actually an infrequently used Craftsman. Somewhere around the 10 year age mark the little dial with the values came loose inside the handle, and at that point all bets are off. It was obviously wrong pretty quickly. It was opened, plastic barrel realigned and properly secured, then sent back through calibration with flying colors.
2. The right range is critical.
I have analog torque wrenches which range from 0.0005 Nm (yes, really) to 800 Nm. As you might guess, the tools at either end of that range don't see much use. As a general rule I try not to go below about 20% of the max range on a mechanical torque wrench, so the 800 Nm tool is useless unless I'm dealing with fasteners in the 1" and larger range.
In your case, most of the torque specs on the bike range from 4 to 45 Nm. As a result, you aren't going to find a single torque wrench that comfortably covers that range, you'll need at least 2. Park has done a nice job of setting their ranges for common bicycle fastener sizes, but anything covering that range with at least slight overlap will do fine.
3. I mention minimum range because dial type torque wrenches are typically more accurate than clickers, although the clickers are really nice for spaces where you can't see the dial. Sadly, a dial still isn't going to be terribly accurate under 10% to 20% of the max range. I happen to like the dial variety because I can detect a fastener or joint failing before it breaks, but you do need to ensure the dial is properly zeroed.
4. The beam bending type is actually a pretty good design, and low cost. Sadly people almost always use these incorrectly which results in an incorrect value, stay away.

Alternatively, if you want some more expensive options to make you happy with the price of the Park tools, there is always CDI (a common dial type in engineering labs), the venerable Snap On torque-o-meter (common in auto shops and more established part suppliers), Wiha, and Tohnichi. Don't get me started on Wera's "bicycle torque wrench" set.

jays35

Jethr00,

I use the craftsman torque wrenches. I have a 3/8” and a 1/2” torque wrenches. As others have mentioned, having the socket adapters to change up and down in sizes and are a plus.

jethro00

Well, I see some of you know a thing or two about torque wrenches This is useful information. I have good ratchet sets with socket adapters. My reading indicates a big issue for cyclists is to make sure the torque wrench works counterclockwise, not just clockwise.

Sempervee

Coming from working on my motorcycles for 48 years I am using a click torque wrench with 1/4 & 3/8 reducer attachment from Harbor freight that cost if I remember about $12...

fooferdoggie 

I have been using this guy. they ahve the larger size but I don't usually need it. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

zandoval 

OK... I'll be the one to post the Cheap Guy tool...





I have really only needed it for securing my crank arms. So this tool and a set of 3/8 drive allens has done the job.

Harbor Freight 22 USD

jethro00

My impetus in getting a torque wrench is that when I removed a crank arm, I had to slip a piece of galvanized pipe (from a pipe clamp) over the handle of my Allen wrench to loosen it. When I replaced the crank arm, I use the pipe over the Allen wrench arm to tighten it back up. I was "careful." but that is not a technique I want to keep using.

jnbrown

I have been using this one and pretty happy with it:

https://www.amazon.com/Products-Torq...68618711&psc=1

I use it on stems, seat posts, etc. For higher torque I use a different one for things like cranks and cassettes. You really need two to cover the whole range.

merlinextraligh

Most torque specs on a bike are maximum specs, i.e. not tighter or you risk breaking something. Virtually nothing on a bike require you to to hit a precise range.

Somfor the fast majority of things on a bike, you need to tighten it enough to not slip, and not so tight it breaks, With a bit of experience it’s not hard to do this by feel. Thus, if you feel the need to buy a torque wrench, I would not sweat buying the best most precise one.

Yamato72

I bought a Venzo torque wrench from Amazon and have found it indispensable for the bikes and also quite handy for certain jobs on my cars, too.

jethro00

Took the plunge and ordered a Bulltools 1/4-inch Drive Click Torque Wrench Set Dual-Direction Adjustable 90-tooth torque wrench 20-200in.lb / 2.26-22.6Nm) from eBay for a lower range set. It's $50 on Amazon and $40 (free ship) on eBay. It comes with a set of attachments, which will spare me having to pull out my ratchet set to get attachments for the torque wrench. I will feel more comfortable using this wrench to adjust my eccentrics going forward. I have always wondered how much to tighten them.

I'm still mulling options for a higher Nm range wrench. I appreciate the shared knowledge and experience.

RedConveyor

I tried a cheap no-name (well, Anndason) torque wrench from Amazon for $40, figuring I wouldn't need it often...but it didn't work at all. (I mean, it worked as a wrench...but there was never any indication that torque level had been reached). Fortunately Amazon is good about returns.

I then tried a park tool wrench from REI for over $100...until I got it home and realized it was the wrong size for all of my bits. REI didn't have the right size, but fortunately they too are good about returns.

I ended up with a Tekton from Home Depot for $42. It's the right size and seems to work well (though I can't verify the torque numbers are accurate).

Eric F 

I have this same one, and like it a lot. My favorite feature is that the scale is in Nm, rather than in-lbs.