Ebeth11

Hi All,

I'm thinking of purchasing this bike on craigslist: Bridgestone MB-1 Commuter

The seller says it's a Bridgestone MB-1, but he doesn't know the year and I can't figure it out from the picture. I haven't found any MB-1 bike pics with that paint job. Any ideas?

I would be updating this bike for touring, and I'm not sure whether I'd put a triple crankset on it or keep the single. I'd definitely be getting new wheels and handlebars. Any thoughts on pros and cons of using this frame for touring?

Does $150 sounds reasonable for this frame?

Thanks in advance!

Vonruden

Looks like a good deal.

LesterOfPuppets

$150 is decent, but not great for that condition. Not much original there, but if there was it would be $450+

I'd probably do it if frame looks to be in good shape.

I'm thinking 1991
Bridgestone Bicycle Catalogue 1991-11

TugaDude

Yes, it is a 1991 MB1. Nicely built frame with a lot of fans so it won't last long. Not in primo shape, but I think price is reasonable enough so long as it doesn't have any dents or cracks. You can build a nice commuter off of that frame.

bikemig 

I'd run not walk to buy that bike. But then I would love to find an MB-1 in my size. Not a screaming deal because vintage MTBs just aren't worth a heck of a lot but that was a top end bike. It is made of tange prestige tubing which is a very fine and lightweight steel tubing set. That crank looks like it could be the original ritchey logic crank which had a 110/74 bolt hole diameter; that's a good crank for touring. You'll need to add 2 chainrings and a front derailleur.

While the parts have been muddied up as others have said, this bike could make a good touring bike. You'll need to keep a couple of things in mind when converting the bike to touring. It can take stout 26 inch wheels with fat tires; those are great for touring. But it is not a long wheelbase bike and it lacks double eyelets. That means you'll either have to find a somewhat longer rack (they're available) or have narrow panniers or go lightweight for ultralight touring. There are a lot of threads on that. Another good possibility is to use a trailer. The point is that you can get this to work well in terms of the bags you want to use but you'll have to put a bit of thought into the front end.

The other potential issue is that the bike has only one thumb shifter. That's not a big deal. You can find cheapies and expensive ones but you may have a hard time finding one that will click shift with that suntour RD. Friction is good and will work with any RD you throw on the bike.

The other question is what kind of h-bars. Trekking bars are cool and they work well for touring. The existing levers and thumbshifter will transfer over. Or you can add drops. That is tougher but doable; you'll want to read the thread on drop bar conversion.

I love vintage mtbs as basic all rounders and this is a good one. Here are my two mtbs, one with a trekking bar, the other with drops:

Ebeth11

Thanks for all the great replies.

The 1991 looks pretty close, but it looks like someone has altered the paint job on the craigslist bike (no red stripe on the top bar, grey paint lines straight not slanted). I'm not sure why they would do that.

We're going to take a look this evening, and I think I'll follow everyone's advice and grab it as long as the frame looks to be in good shape. Is adding a couple chainrings, front derailleur, and a second shifter a difficult job for a beginner like me? Or is that something you'd take to a bike shop?

I really like those trekking bars bikemig, very cool. I'll probably try to find similar ones. I've never liked drop bars, even on my old road bike.

LesterOfPuppets

I noticed that also, figured some white touch-up was done at some point in the bike's life.

bikemig 

The job is very doable for a newbie as long as you are patient. There are youtube videos of most of these jobs and the mechanics section on BF can help you out as well. Plus if you want to go touring, you will want to learn how to work on your bike. Better to learn it at home than on the road. I love drop bars but the trekking bars are pretty awesome as well. They just felt right the first time I rode with them.

Ebeth11

Well, I got it for $120, but it's in worse shape than I thought so I'm not sure if it's money well spent.

There's a lot of scrapes and rust, but only one big dent on the top tube (it was covered with tape). I'm attaching pictures. How bad does this dent look to you all? The previous owner rode on it for two years without any issues. It doesn't look like it's ever been treated for the rust (or cleaned very often either), and I don't know if rust can continue under the paint?

According to the serial number, it's a 1990 (J023224). It looks like it has been spray painted.

I like how it rides, but I'm concerned about the dent in the top tube and potential rust issues. Any advice would be much appreciated.

mparker326

It's fine. You can either treat the rust or just ride with some fresh tape. I wouldn't worry about it. Bike is in the shape where you can just ride it and not worry about it. Enjoy, you got a great deal.

Ebeth11

This is my first steel bike -- I know that dent in an aluminum bike would be the end of the bike. It's also in the middle of the tube, which is supposed to be the thinnest part. But since there are no cracks visible, is it safe to say that it's structurally sound?

There are a ton of scratches in the paint and a lot of accompanying rust, it really needs a new paint job. I'm thinking about stripping (or sanding?) the old paint off, removing the rust, and having it repainted and new decals put on (the old decals are pretty shredded). Would you all try removing the old paint yourselves, or is it worth it to find somewhere to have it sandblasted?

Thanks!

thinktubes 

Safe as milk.

jyl

Some alternatives.

- Take frame to a powdercoater who has done bikes. He will sandblast off the paint, using plugs to protect the bottom bracket and other openings, then powder coat it in the color of your choice. He should have pamphlets showing dozens of colors. Powdercoat is more durable than paint, looks okay although a little "thick", and you can apply decals on it. The end result will look good although it won't pass for the original MB-1 paint. Usually they are single color coats. That should cost $100-150. It is possible to do a multi color job but I'm not sure most places are able to do so. He should be able to fill the dent before coating.

- Take frame to a painter who knows bicycles. A lot more expensive, price also quite variable - I think $400-600 would be a "good" price. But ask around. He can fill the dent and apply decals, and the bike can look fresh from the Bridgestone factory circa 1991 when it is done.

- Clean the frame very well, treat the rusty dent (wire brush off loose rust then treat w/ rust convertor and paint), use touch up paint (like model paint from the hobby shop) on the scratches. I've seen incredible results but need skill and patience.

FastJake

IMO a repaint would be money poorly spent but it's your money. Unless this is a restoration project I'd leave it alone. I have steel bikes with similar looking rust spots or dents. I don't worry about them. One is even my winter commuter and has a pretty nasty scrape on the top tube. Just means I don't have to worry about scratching the paint!

Surface rust really isn't a big issue with steel bikes. The thing you have to watch out for is if water was sitting in the frame for a long time and it's rotted out from the inside.

Ebeth11

Thanks for the advice everyone. My local bike shop recommended a place that does powder coating. They say it will be $70 to sandblast, seal, and powder coat. Sounds like a pretty good deal to me. And once that's done I can start building it back up!

Ebeth11

Well, the bike shop says that's where they send their frames, so I figure it must be decent. Also, they say they put on a sealer to prevent rust from forming under the powder coat, which I haven't heard of other places doing.

The guy on the phone sounded like he knew what he was doing. I'm going to give it a go based on that and the bike shop's recommendation. I'll post pics when it's done in a couple of weeks. Next step is to find some decals...

jyl

Make sure he fills the dent.

Jsnaggle

Was cruising the forums looking for information on MB-1's as I just picked up mine for $25 on Craigslist and this one looked oddly familiar.....same dented top tube, same missing decals........... It's the SAME BIKE! Small world eh?

Before - a little rough but a good project bike.

After - I've swapped some parts out since this photo. Went with some Nitto Bosco bars and canti brakes


​

socalbike

Wow, nice save on that one.

Jsnaggle

Sanded down any surface rust, primed and rattle canned the paint. I plan on getting it powder coated next winter if it passes as a keeper. I'm 5'9" and the frame is a 52cm so a little big for me and a looong top tube. The Bosco bars bring it back tho and for a tourer I don't mind the size up. Brooks B67 for that upright posture. It is a collage of parts but actually rides and shifts like a dream. Can't wait to explore some of these upstate NY forest roads. Next, fenders I think?

Bmoreblujay

Too much corrosion?

SotR23

My first adult bike. Bought it just before college in the mid 80s. Did a light restoration a few years ago, but it needs new wheels (cracks around some spoke nipples). It’s too small for me, but it’s got some deep sentimental value.

Jsnaggle

Still the best $25 I've ever spent. Put a LOT of work into it but has been an amazing "country bike". The polished Ritchey cranks may be my favorite bit. Just thought I'd share and keep the thread alive 😉.

kc_sw22

Really beautiful work! I just spotted an old RS650T in good condition yesterday and hopfully I can turn that one into something decent as yours.

Clang

This is the right way to resurrect an old thread: with the same bike changing hands again. This time to someone who appreciates it much more.