EE Cane Creek direct mount (coil spring) brake setting
#1
CycleofLife
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2021
Location: Singapore
Posts: 26
Bikes: Giant TCR Adv Pro, Caad2, 8, 12 and 13, Giant Revolt, Yasujiro Svelte and Dahon foldie
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times
in
4 Posts
EE Cane Creek direct mount (coil spring) brake setting
Hi Help,
Been struggling to set up my rear DM ee brakes. The front brakes sets up fine.
After adjusting the correct length for the brake cable housing, adjusting the centering pin and the cable tension, I am faced with the problem of the pads not "opening up completely" when I release the brakes.
I am wondering if it has to do with the coil spring being too weak (brakes are not brand new). I have cleaned and oiled the necessary moving parts so that they are all moving smoothly.
Or is there a difference between the front and rear brakes and I may have fitted it the wrong way round. From what I can see, the front & rear brakes look identical.
I notice that the length of the housing is important. If it is too long, it tends to push down on lever and prevents the pads from opening back up completely. So I hv adjusted them so there is minimum pressure coming from the housing. This was what I was taught by Ted of Ciamilo as I also hv a pair of his earlier model of Ciamilo brakes.
Should I replace the coil spring or somehow increase its pulling force so as to "open the pads" every time the brakes are released?
Anyone gone thru similar issues with EE brakes?
Been struggling to set up my rear DM ee brakes. The front brakes sets up fine.
After adjusting the correct length for the brake cable housing, adjusting the centering pin and the cable tension, I am faced with the problem of the pads not "opening up completely" when I release the brakes.
I am wondering if it has to do with the coil spring being too weak (brakes are not brand new). I have cleaned and oiled the necessary moving parts so that they are all moving smoothly.
Or is there a difference between the front and rear brakes and I may have fitted it the wrong way round. From what I can see, the front & rear brakes look identical.
I notice that the length of the housing is important. If it is too long, it tends to push down on lever and prevents the pads from opening back up completely. So I hv adjusted them so there is minimum pressure coming from the housing. This was what I was taught by Ted of Ciamilo as I also hv a pair of his earlier model of Ciamilo brakes.
Should I replace the coil spring or somehow increase its pulling force so as to "open the pads" every time the brakes are released?
Anyone gone thru similar issues with EE brakes?
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 3,437
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 775 Post(s)
Liked 894 Times
in
645 Posts
I'm guessing you've seen the setup instructions but on the chance you haven't here's a link. AEE0204_eeBrakes_G4_DM_2021_11_01.pdf (canecreek.com)
I noticed instruction #2 points out that a cable housing that is too SHORT will also cause the non-opening problem you're having.
I noticed instruction #2 points out that a cable housing that is too SHORT will also cause the non-opening problem you're having.
#3
CycleofLife
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2021
Location: Singapore
Posts: 26
Bikes: Giant TCR Adv Pro, Caad2, 8, 12 and 13, Giant Revolt, Yasujiro Svelte and Dahon foldie
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times
in
4 Posts
I'm guessing you've seen the setup instructions but on the chance you haven't here's a link. AEE0204_eeBrakes_G4_DM_2021_11_01.pdf (canecreek.com)
I noticed instruction #2 points out that a cable housing that is too SHORT will also cause the non-opening problem you're having.
I noticed instruction #2 points out that a cable housing that is too SHORT will also cause the non-opening problem you're having.
I will try swapping the front brakes (that works quite well) to the rear to see if there is a difference between the front & rear brakes. Maybe they are slightly different.
rear.The front brakes usually works better as the cable housing doesn't force down on the cable adjustment screw...so the pads open full when it is the release model.
Likes For Steve Lai:
#4
Clark W. Griswold
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: ,location, location
Posts: 12,417
Bikes: Foundry Chilkoot Ti W/Ultegra Di2, Salsa Timberjack Ti, Cinelli Mash Work RandoCross Fun Time Machine, 1x9 XT Parts Hybrid, Co-Motion Cascadia, Specialized Langster, Phil Wood Apple VeloXS Frame (w/DA 7400), R+M Supercharger2 Rohloff, Habanero Ti 26
Mentioned: 52 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3913 Post(s)
Liked 3,380 Times
in
2,270 Posts
I haven't used the direct mount versions I have two sets of the standard mount versions best rim brakes ever. I would try swapping the brakes I am pretty sure they are directional. I don't know it should really make a difference but they do sell them as front and rear specific. You might reach out to Cane Creek as well and pose the issue. They have excellent customer service.
#5
CycleofLife
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2021
Location: Singapore
Posts: 26
Bikes: Giant TCR Adv Pro, Caad2, 8, 12 and 13, Giant Revolt, Yasujiro Svelte and Dahon foldie
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times
in
4 Posts
I haven't used the direct mount versions I have two sets of the standard mount versions best rim brakes ever. I would try swapping the brakes I am pretty sure they are directional. I don't know it should really make a difference but they do sell them as front and rear specific. You might reach out to Cane Creek as well and pose the issue. They have excellent customer service.
Likes For Steve Lai: