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How to loosen Shimano 600 brake levers (non-aero)?

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How to loosen Shimano 600 brake levers (non-aero)?

Old 10-12-13, 12:04 AM
  #1  
PapaGanoosh
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How to loosen Shimano 600 brake levers (non-aero)?

I'm trying to loosen my brake levers and disconnect the brake cables from the levers so that I can install some cane creek hoods on my road bike and clean up the gunk on the handlebar. However, I don't see how I can get to the bolt within the brake lever. Not only is the gap small, but the brake cable is in the way. How can I disassemble this setup in a method that would not involve cutting the brake cable?

Here is an image of the situation:

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Old 10-12-13, 12:08 AM
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Jeff Wills
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Remove the brake cable by squeezing the brake calipers shut and unhooking the cable at the lever. There's a slot cut into the fitting for just this purpose- no need to disturb the adjustment of the brake. Then use a 10mm socket on the nut- just loosen it some and the band that tightens it to the handlebar will allow you to slide the lever off the handlebar.
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Old 10-12-13, 12:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Jeff Wills
Remove the brake cable by squeezing the brake calipers shut and unhooking the cable at the lever.
So you can squeeze the calipers more, open the quick releases on the calipers, or remove the wheels.
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Old 10-13-13, 03:19 PM
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You sure Jeff? Usually a 5MM allen bolt. Older low end bikes took a flat blade screwdriver. You place a straight edge along the bottom of the handlebars with the bottom of the brake lever touching it. The 4MM 5MM 6MM, "Y" allen Wrench works better on the brake handle, than a smaller loose "L" shaped allen wremch.
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Old 10-13-13, 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by TireLever-07
You sure Jeff? Usually a 5MM allen bolt. Older low end bikes took a flat blade screwdriver. You place a straight edge along the bottom of the handlebars with the bottom of the brake lever touching it. The 4MM 5MM 6MM, "Y" allen Wrench works better on the brake handle, than a smaller loose "L" shaped allen wremch.
That's an old one, looks like a 10mm. The 'newer' models (from the mid/late 80's or so?) used a 5mm allen.
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Old 10-13-13, 03:29 PM
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If the OP going to change his levers anyway , why not just disconnect the cable at the calipers ,which give him the slack he need to remove the cable from the levers . And yes a 5 MM allen (hex) on a Y will work to remove the levers from the bar .
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Old 10-13-13, 04:19 PM
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Originally Posted by bikeman715
If the OP going to change his levers anyway
He is not replacing the levers, just installing new hood covers.
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Old 10-13-13, 05:35 PM
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Jeff Wills
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Originally Posted by TireLever-07
You sure Jeff? Usually a 5MM allen bolt. Older low end bikes took a flat blade screwdriver. You place a straight edge along the bottom of the handlebars with the bottom of the brake lever touching it. The 4MM 5MM 6MM, "Y" allen Wrench works better on the brake handle, than a smaller loose "L" shaped allen wremch.
Uhh... did you look at the picture the OP posted? It's clearly a hex nut.
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Old 10-14-13, 05:55 PM
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Sorry guys. Chris
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Old 10-14-13, 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeff Wills
Remove the brake cable by squeezing the brake calipers shut and unhooking the cable at the lever. There's a slot cut into the fitting for just this purpose- no need to disturb the adjustment of the brake. Then use a 10mm socket on the nut- just loosen it some and the band that tightens it to the handlebar will allow you to slide the lever off the handlebar.
Just to piggyback on this, you can take the wheel out of the dropout and use something like a toe strap to hold the caliper together to get more cable slack. Then slip the end out of the slotted part of the lever, and slide the whole shebang out the top. Installation is the opposite of removal.

I've swapped entire assemblies of taped bars, stems and levers like this without doing anything to the cable.
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Old 10-15-13, 10:20 AM
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The OP is going to have to undo the cables to get the hoods on so there is no other option. You should be able to get the hoods on without removing the brake body. Put the new hoods in some hot water for a few minutes before installing them. This helps them stretch and the water helps them slide on a bit.
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Old 10-15-13, 10:34 AM
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I like my Campag 143/2, T wrench, for those kinds of jobs ..
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Old 10-15-13, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Crankycrank
The OP is going to have to undo the cables to get the hoods on so there is no other option. You should be able to get the hoods on without removing the brake body. Put the new hoods in some hot water for a few minutes before installing them. This helps them stretch and the water helps them slide on a bit.
He just has to get the cable end out of the lever, he doesn't have to unclamp the cable at the caliper. I've done this with the same arabesque levers myself.
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Old 10-15-13, 01:45 PM
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Loosen the brake cable at the other end, on the brake, so there is leeway.

I needed a 8 or 9 mm tap back nut spanner to loosen the nut on a 1980 Shimano 600 brake earlier this year -- not an allen key. Forgot which one.
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Old 05-30-14, 01:18 PM
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Hi, a while since you posted this question: But i have exactly the same situation, minus the cable (which is loose). Did you get your bars loose? It so naarow to reach the nut.
Thankyou! / Olof
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Old 05-30-14, 01:25 PM
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Right Tool .. need at least an 8mm socket, 1/4" drive .. ..
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Old 12-04-22, 01:23 PM
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A tap back nut spanner usually for faucets... because a socket is too thick.
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Old 12-04-22, 10:06 PM
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Originally Posted by al futura
A tap back nut spanner usually for faucets... because a socket is too thick.
I tried to resist, I really did. However...

After 8 years since the last post in this thread I imagine that the OP got the brake levers loosened and replaced the brake hoods okay.

Btw, those old 600EX brake levers used a 8mm hex nut to tighten the brake lever clamp. I know that because I have one of those brake levers in my hand.

Cheers
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Old 12-05-22, 08:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Miele Man
Btw, those old 600EX brake levers used a 8mm hex nut to tighten the brake lever clamp. I know that because I have one of those brake levers in my hand.
Hozan C-73 or Campagnolo 143/2 always worked for me.

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