jadocs

Hey all,

Just purchased a Master Olympic that does not have the dropout adjustment screws. One of the dropouts has been repaired with the adjustment screw hole filled in so it won’t be as simple as getting some screws. Anyway I’m trying to prepare and have what I need when the bike gets delivered. In my previous thread it was mentioned that chainring bolts would be a possible solution.

Not knowing the dimensions of the campy dropouts, I was wondering which chainring bolts I should get? I see they make them for single speeds and doubles/triples. I have seen various lengths from 5mm, 7mm, and 8mm. My gut tells me 5mm length (single speed?) but wanted to check with you guys first. They all appear to have 10mm OD.

Thanks

3alarmer 

...I've not used chainring bolts for this, but have had great success with these. If you can find them at someplace nearby like a bike co-op, they're cheaper.

jadocs

Thanks I have seen those in my web search on the subject. You are right about being hard to find at a reasonable price! Unfortunately no Co-op around me.

I’ve saved that eBay link. Thank you.

jackbombay

You could drill and tap the repaired dropout too.

But, if it were mine, I'd fiddle with rear wheel placement and figure out exactly where I wanted it to live, then I'd JB Weld a chunk of aluminum in the drop outs, I'd make it a bit bigger than I wanted it to be, so I could then file the aluminum back to the exact size I wanted/make sure the wheel was square in the drop outs.

jadocs

Have you guys heard about Surly Monkey Nuts v2 being used successfully? They seem similar to the vintage spacers above, but with an Allen head screw.

ThermionicScott 

Dropout spacers are nice for convenience, but you don’t need ‘em.

smontanaro 

^^^^ +1 beat me to it.

JohnDThompson 

Exactly. Why bother?

xiaoman1 

Right, I posted the same comment in the OP's other thread, sometimes we overthink things...
Best, Ben

SurferRosa

If the frame doesn't have an integrated derailleur hanger, the drive-side adjuster can come in handy to keep the derailleur and chain in place when the wheel is removed.

Kuromori

Single speed ones are the safest bet.If you have spare doubles, doubles will sometimes work depending on the thickness of the dropout and the length of the nut. Campagnolo dropouts are ~7mm between the faces, so you need one where the barrel of the nut is less than 7mm to prevent it from bottoming out.

Murray Missile 

Unless it's a higher end bike (of which I have very few) if the bike has them I use them, if they're gone, I don't. I just make sure the rim is centered between the stays and tighten it down, in 40 years I've never had an issue. But then, I'm crude like that.

jadocs

I went ahead and just purchased these. The price was for two so it was much less than what others are selling singles for. At least this way I will have them ready when the bike gets here.

79pmooney

Actually. one spacer is a real time saver over none. After a flat, slide the wheel back until it hits, center the rim in the chainstays and close the QR. Done. Much easier than trying to hold the hub in the middle of the dropout while centering the rim. This shows especially when the flat happens at night, in the rain or snow and/or you are either tired or have had a brew or two. BTD (all of) T.

One plus for aluminum ones is the simple fact that on a lot of frames with horizontal dropouts built with the screws, less attention was paid to the fore and aft alignment of the two dropouts since as long as they were reasonably close the screws made up the difference. If the stops are aluminum. fine tuning where the axle hits with a file is a lot faster than with steel.

Ben