Older aluminum Cannondale road bikes?
#226
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I bought a Cannondale SR600 new in 1990, Crit 3.0, red and white. I continue to ride it everyday anywhere from 20 to 40 miles. Never would I part with this bike. It is still in mint condition and a rocket. Of course I am 65 and not the cyclist I once was but continue to hold my own considering. I much prefer this bike to any of the new stuff. One of the few things in this life that I have been content with. Love it!
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#228
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There is one variation within road frames when you consider the Criterium Series lineup. This is evident in the '87 lineup.
Last edited by OldsCOOL; 10-01-15 at 07:05 PM.
#229
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what size have the dropouts in your bikes? I have cannondale R300 maybe is 1993 the dropouts is 126mm but i use wheels with 130mm hub that is can give problems?
#231
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thank you for the answer. I do the same spread the dropouts. Do you think is worth to upgrade my cannondale? I do like much the downtube shifters but in downhill or in flats in higher speeds i not feel comfortable to change gears i have one used groupset shimano ultegra 6500 9 speeds is worth i put that brifters crank cassette and brakes in my cannondale?
#232
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thank you for the answer. I do the same spread the dropouts. Do you think is worth to upgrade my cannondale? I do like much the downtube shifters but in downhill or in flats in higher speeds i not feel comfortable to change gears i have one used groupset shimano ultegra 6500 9 speeds is worth i put that brifters crank cassette and brakes in my cannondale?
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#233
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i have the parts also i like the bike. some people say aluminum bikes have harsh ride me no have see that i have ride the bike in bike trail i have steel bike too but i not feel much different in ride both i feel is comfortable.
#234
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I have an SR400 as well. I don't find the ride harsh , either. I rode a new Trek last summer, and my 400 felt every bit as comfortable to me. Mine's not quite as pretty as yours, I must admit.
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I just sold a like new R300 with a triple crank for $400 and I thought that it was more than a fair price. It was a mid 90's bike and I loved the way it rode and hated to sell it. I just did not like the brifters and hated to re-work the bike to my specs. It was just too nice to mess with IMO. I also would have preferred to have a 54 or even a 52cm frame and it was a 56. It was a fine riding bike and it was not the first nice Cannondale I flipped. They have all been a little too large for me.
I had the same problem also with 2 frames cannondale,a cannondale caad3 saeco 1997 size 56cm..I had to sell the saeco because it was not my size. the other is an SR2000 89 'also 56cm. Now it's improved, I'll look for more photos. I put a steel track fork to give a similar look to cannondale track. I don't trust carbon forks, but I don't care about the weight
Last edited by Milan dura ace; 08-20-19 at 01:30 AM.
#236
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Hey there C&V!
I've had this question in the back of my mind for a while and I thought you guys would be the ones to ask. I've always had a soft spot for the early-mid 90s aluminum Cannondale road bikes. Something about the oversized stays, rear dropouts, and those lugged steel forks just works for me. Does their quality and value match up to my appreciation for them aesthetically? I've heard all the buzz about aluminum having a harsh ride and being prone to failure. Would getting one this late in its life be asking for trouble?
From what I've looked at in the old catalogs I'd be interested in something like an R2000, R900, R800, R700, or R600.
I know these were a big range of values. R2000 got Dura Ace, R900 got Ultegra, and the rest got 105. What's a fair price to pay for any of those in decent condition? I'm decent mechanically so it wouldn't have to be perfect or anything.
Thanks!!

I've had this question in the back of my mind for a while and I thought you guys would be the ones to ask. I've always had a soft spot for the early-mid 90s aluminum Cannondale road bikes. Something about the oversized stays, rear dropouts, and those lugged steel forks just works for me. Does their quality and value match up to my appreciation for them aesthetically? I've heard all the buzz about aluminum having a harsh ride and being prone to failure. Would getting one this late in its life be asking for trouble?
From what I've looked at in the old catalogs I'd be interested in something like an R2000, R900, R800, R700, or R600.
I know these were a big range of values. R2000 got Dura Ace, R900 got Ultegra, and the rest got 105. What's a fair price to pay for any of those in decent condition? I'm decent mechanically so it wouldn't have to be perfect or anything.
Thanks!!


#237
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I rode a black lightning for a while and it was definitely fast and stuff. However to me, it rode roughly.
I went back to back between it and a steel Bianchi and every time, I wanted to convince myself it was not the bike... but in my experience it was. You could especially feel the difference if you ran over a road reflector, chip seal, or cracked pavement. My steel, lugged frames sort of thud over them. The Cannondale would fly into the air.
I would mot be surprised to learn that those Cannondale users with steel forks do not feel that the ride is as harsh, however.
I went back to back between it and a steel Bianchi and every time, I wanted to convince myself it was not the bike... but in my experience it was. You could especially feel the difference if you ran over a road reflector, chip seal, or cracked pavement. My steel, lugged frames sort of thud over them. The Cannondale would fly into the air.
I would mot be surprised to learn that those Cannondale users with steel forks do not feel that the ride is as harsh, however.
#238
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#239
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I rode a black lightning for a while and it was definitely fast and stuff. However to me, it rode roughly.
I went back to back between it and a steel Bianchi and every time, I wanted to convince myself it was not the bike... but in my experience it was. You could especially feel the difference if you ran over a road reflector, chip seal, or cracked pavement. My steel, lugged frames sort of thud over them. The Cannondale would fly into the air.
I would mot be surprised to learn that those Cannondale users with steel forks do not feel that the ride is as harsh, however.
I went back to back between it and a steel Bianchi and every time, I wanted to convince myself it was not the bike... but in my experience it was. You could especially feel the difference if you ran over a road reflector, chip seal, or cracked pavement. My steel, lugged frames sort of thud over them. The Cannondale would fly into the air.
I would mot be surprised to learn that those Cannondale users with steel forks do not feel that the ride is as harsh, however.
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#240
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I have a 1995 R800C that I built up. I bought it as a used frameset (aluminum fork), and instead of searching for 650c wheels, I used light 26" MTB wheels with 1.25" Specialized Fat Boy tires. At a lower psi (70, maybe? I go by feel, not so much numbers), the ride is definitely not harsh. However, it does accelerate and climb extremely well and it has nimble steering without being squirrely. I like it a lot. I just took it on a 90+ mile ride without any comfort problems. Definitely a good piece of engineering from Cannondale.
#241
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The softening began around CAAD 4. Before that stiffness was the answer to everything
I don't know what "Cannondale" is any more, within the conglomerate that ate them and took them to China... if they have their own factory or if they're just buying from a contractor. But the design is still for real. I just test rode a Quick Disk that has pretty much all the history of aluminum CAAD frames incorporated. Bendy stays, big down tube, the flattened seat tube, the works. It rode great, planted and efficient but not at all harsh.
I don't know what "Cannondale" is any more, within the conglomerate that ate them and took them to China... if they have their own factory or if they're just buying from a contractor. But the design is still for real. I just test rode a Quick Disk that has pretty much all the history of aluminum CAAD frames incorporated. Bendy stays, big down tube, the flattened seat tube, the works. It rode great, planted and efficient but not at all harsh.
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#242
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I need to dig up some pics of my 1983 Cannondale. First year they made a complete bike. It is hanging in my garage needing the rear derailleur mounting hole rethreaded or repaired.
I think I paid $10 for it at a garage sale, not knowing exactly what it was, other than an old C Dale.
I think I paid $10 for it at a garage sale, not knowing exactly what it was, other than an old C Dale.
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#244
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Mint mid 90s R600 - rides smoother than any bike I've owned, which includes a Bianchi Infinito and Colnago Ace... both of which I thought were super-smooth.

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#245
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Reply from the future... Soon to be past
I've got an '87 black lightning that I got from a friend for free. Needs the rear wheel trued and the front brake cable is sticking, but it rides like butter...for a while. It's like another appendage - you know what it's doing and where it's going at all times. It feels what you're doing and reacts appropriately. It handles like it's on rails, accelerates like none other, and would probably hang with modern bikes if I chose to ride in a group with it (and did with a bunch of C&V'ers a couple years ago), but after about 80 miles or so, when you need to have some stability and some upright-ness, it just isn't the bike to use...or perhaps I haven't ridden it enough to get used to doing distances on it.

1986 SR800 Ebony Special edition, full Superbe drivetrain, Gran Compe Royal (with cheese). Recently rescued. This is the bike that spawned the idea of "Black Lightning", the prequel before the stickers
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I had a 1985 r600 as my everyday bike for a couple of years and absolutely loved it. Super snappy and quick. It was maybe a little harsh over rough pavement but honestly the responsiveness really makes up for it.
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#247
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Everyone will tell you can spread, (NOT cold set) Cannondale 126mm dropouts to 130mm without issue. Although I didn't go that route, I agree with them as I haven't heard of any issues with the pre-cantilever dopouts.
But being consistent to not following the crowd, I thought if I didn't spread the dropouts, I'd have to reduce the OLD. So going from 126mm to 130mm meant a midway stop.
Through a series of convoluted steps, including the swapping the original with an incorrect depth XT-M960 freehub body with shims on a FH-7700, I was able to get the OLD below 128mm; which on an '88 easily slides right in. That leaves me to believe that the '88/'89 Crits had an dropout width that was really 128mm and I probably could have lived with the 2mm difference. Oh well. It works well and it was a fun and successful experiment with a schooch less wheel dish.
John
But being consistent to not following the crowd, I thought if I didn't spread the dropouts, I'd have to reduce the OLD. So going from 126mm to 130mm meant a midway stop.
Through a series of convoluted steps, including the swapping the original with an incorrect depth XT-M960 freehub body with shims on a FH-7700, I was able to get the OLD below 128mm; which on an '88 easily slides right in. That leaves me to believe that the '88/'89 Crits had an dropout width that was really 128mm and I probably could have lived with the 2mm difference. Oh well. It works well and it was a fun and successful experiment with a schooch less wheel dish.
John
#248
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I rode 63cm Cannondale racing frames for years. I still own about a dozen bikes/frames. IMO for the tall tider they were and still are the way to go: stiff, light and responsive.Add a carbon fork and the ride is great. If anything, the 63cm was a tad small. I own several 27" frame ST series sports/touring bikes, and they are a better fit.and a great ride as well.
As for the rear dropout spacing, I have found several 130mm hubs with non-drive side spacers that can be reduced by 4mm or eliminated to arrive at 126mm.
Re-dish 2mm to center the wheel and away you go. At 250# or more, I have never had a wheel failure.
The Ritchey Zero System hubs and Ritchey Aero rear rims with off-center spoke beds are excellent choices.
As for the rear dropout spacing, I have found several 130mm hubs with non-drive side spacers that can be reduced by 4mm or eliminated to arrive at 126mm.
Re-dish 2mm to center the wheel and away you go. At 250# or more, I have never had a wheel failure.
The Ritchey Zero System hubs and Ritchey Aero rear rims with off-center spoke beds are excellent choices.
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#249
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1986 SR400 rides on rails and at 240lbs the ride is definitely comfortable and fast. Great bikes, so much so, I bought an 1986 SR800 PRE BLACK LIGHTNING ⚡

1986 SR800 special edition in Ebony aka Black Lightning the following year with slightly less spectacular specs: all SunTour Superbe Pro black/gold and Dia Compe Gran Comp Royal black and gold brakes, mavic MA40 rims, nitto stem, Cinelli saddle (soon to be replaced by a 1990 Selle Italia Flite)
#250
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Live the ride on my 1986 SR400, fast, precise, great acceleration and gearing.

1986 SR400 rides on rails and at 240lbs the ride is definitely comfortable and fast. Great bikes, so much so, I bought an 1986 SR800 PRE BLACK LIGHTNING ⚡

1986 SR800 special edition in Ebony aka Black Lightning the following year with slightly less spectacular specs: all SunTour Superbe Pro black/gold and Dia Compe Gran Comp Royal black and gold brakes, mavic MA40 rims, nitto stem, Cinelli saddle (soon to be replaced by a 1990 Selle Italia Flite)

1986 SR400 rides on rails and at 240lbs the ride is definitely comfortable and fast. Great bikes, so much so, I bought an 1986 SR800 PRE BLACK LIGHTNING ⚡

1986 SR800 special edition in Ebony aka Black Lightning the following year with slightly less spectacular specs: all SunTour Superbe Pro black/gold and Dia Compe Gran Comp Royal black and gold brakes, mavic MA40 rims, nitto stem, Cinelli saddle (soon to be replaced by a 1990 Selle Italia Flite)
--Shannon
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