MerckxMad

I have a compact titanium frame (Omega Radius) that has an aluminum sleeve welded into the seat tube to hold the seat post (Thomson Elite). It has developed a wickedly loud creaking/clicking noise every time I ride over a rough surface. LBS was able to identify the source of the noise. Despite changing seat posts and over-torquing the seat tube collar, we cannot figure out how to silence the noise. Although the sleeve is attached to the seat tube, it seems loose at the bottom end which allows the seat post to move ever so slightly, causing the noise. Any ideas on a fix?

jollycycle

Hi. Many years later - I have exactly the same construction (sleeve in the seat tube) and the same problem (clicking). If you're still around, did you fix it?

sweeks

I doubt the sleeve is actually welded if they are different metals (as the original post Ti frame, Al sleeve).
In this case, I'd look for some way to remove the sleeve and apply some form of lubrication; or at least get some oil in the interface.
(Stand by for Zombie Thread comments!)

alcjphil

When you revive a long dead thread like this one you should always check the last post by the OP. In this case, that was 11 years ago. Starting a new thread would have been a better idea since the OP isn't likely to see your question

Rolla

Zombie thread notwithstanding, I had a similar click with a Kona Sutra LTD that had an aluminum shim factory-installed in the seat tube. Grease would silence it for awhile, then it would return. We eventually glued the shim in place, maybe with JB Weld or epoxy, I don't remember. It solved the issue, but I never understood the rationale for intentionally making the seat tube oversized and using a shim.

Andrew R Stewart 

"but I never understood the rationale for intentionally making the seat tube oversized and using a shim." Rolla

Maybe because your view is backwards. The tube is what fits the design goals AND is actually available. The shim allow for a standard diameter post to fit. Additionally the shim will help correct for heat induced deformation that can be about the weld. Lastly the shim can be made long enough to best support the joints area and the seat post clamping.

In the 1980s/1990s some Cannondales used a seat tube shim (and both being Al it might have been able to be welded, but wasn't as a press fit worked well most of the time). These sometimes creaked and clicked with shifting weight on the seat. IIRC the Cannondale suggested solution was to soak the upper end of the seat tube in linseed oil. We just used penetrating oil. Andy

79pmooney

I have two ti frames. Both are shimmed down to 27.2. Thank you, for letting me use any of the million 27.2 posts out there! I've never had an issue with either one and in fact, I've never thought about them. 20K and 15k miles. Just grease the posts liberally. (Ti posts so maybe aluminum is better against galling but I doubt it would be an issue with the amount of grease I use.)

Rolla

Didn't realize that 27.2mm ID tubing has been in short supply all these years.

Then why isn't everyone using a two-piece seat tube that makes noise? Maybe their view is backwards.

Andrew R Stewart 

Rolla- Sorry if I sounded aggressive with my earlier reply. Wasn't trying to diss you but to describe how the view of a builder works.

There are many references of Ti tubing and its dimensions and the availability, or lack of, of bike friendly specs from over the years. Witness the un tapered stays so common.

The vast majority of shimmed (as in press fitted and not the shims that the LBS might supply) seat tubes have no issues. That this practice has been used by so many makers, to me, means it's a very practical way to control post fits.

But we all have our opinions about stuff we don't see eye to eye with. Andy

easyupbug 

Same here, Litespeed and Habanero, cheap split shims, lubed, and fitting the way too many 27.2 posts on my shelf.