mountaindave 

If this is what you are looking for, you have correctly identified them as an R-clip even though they are shaped, and used, exactly like a P-clip... They are $6 for 4 at VO. Sadly, I don't have an extra.

88Tempo

I have a pair of Shimano M535 pedals and a pair of Shimano PD-A525 clipless . They both seem to work, but I don't have the shoes to test that for sure.

If someone wants them all I ask is cover shipping and I'll send them out. Send me a PM.

The A525 pedals look like they'll clean up okay and the M535 are well used.

danarello

My current seat post is not long enough. At 16 cm in length, I can only get about 9 cm sticking out the seat tube safely. thats not enough for a proper bike fit. The Schwinn Catalogue shows that its a 26.6 mm diameter seat post. does anyone have ideas how I can find a suitable one for my needs?

The black line indicates what I believe to be the minimum insertion line.


the length is 16 cm. The seat post looks longer because the measuring tape is lower.

FBOATSB

I'm all out of posts currently, or I'd give you one. If you don't require vintage, there's several on amazon.

danarello

Ok, thanks for your reply. I'll check on amazon. I found several vintage seat posts on ebay, but there is a little confusion about seat post length. Most of the sellers don't indicate the length of the seat post, and if they do, they are listing the length of the entire seat post, not just the shaft. I also have a minor issue with the Sugino seat post clamp bolt. It looks like my washer has failed, and needs to be replaced. See pictures attached.



The washer looks broken. Also, the frame has minor damage where the washer comes in contact with right side of the clamp at the top of the seat tube.

danarello

there is the slot!


there is the tang and damaged washer.
I only just now realized that there is a small tang on the longer side of the clamp bolt that is designed to fit in the slot on the L side of the seat tube clamp! (Duh!) I think I installed the clamp the wrong way and slightly damaged the top of the seat tube clamp on the L side.

merziac

That washer was pretty crusty before the damage, these should be cleaned and greased regularly to avoid this and breakage from the threads binding, they struggle to do their job when neglected. FWIW I think anti-seize is the trick for the threads if not sometimes messy.

danarello

merziak,
I think the grease on those threads is 31 years old! I will definitely clean those threads. I will look into the anti-seize compound, don't think I have any of that in the garage. Thanks, I appreciate your input.

nlerner

Kind of a long shot, but I'm looking for the hardware for this style SR seat post:


Un-sticking a seat post.

I have plenty to trade; let me know what you're looking for.

danarello

I've looked on amazon and found a Kalloy 26.6 mm seat post that would fit my needs. Some reviews state that they had to sand them in order get them to fit in the seat tube. I couldn't find any Nitto seat posts that were 26.6 mm. Will keep looking.

davester

ISO: I'm looking for a drop bolt for a '70s nutted rear Campy brake. It doesn't need to be Campy...it just needs to work. Something like this:

rccardr 

FBOATSB

Yeah, I would suspect the condition of the seat tube of an amazon reviewer, like did their old post have those horrible zig zag scars on it before I would question Kalloy's manufacturing QC.

danarello

Hello All,
Thanks for that feedback! It's kinda funny that all the Kalloy seat posts available in US from Amazon or ebay are like 350mm in length! For some reason, sellers in Eastern Europe have some that are 240 mm or 300 mm. I prefer to buy from US sellers.

danarello

According to T-MAR, BF 2013, Adjustment screws for rear drop outs are helpful in aligning the rear wheel and improved shifting capabilities, especially with older friction shifters. One BF member mentioned that you can buy 3 mm screws at the hardware store! If so, is it necessary to use springs and little acorn nuts on the ends of the screw or just use a M3 x .5 screw? Also, if I have installed a newer Shimano 5500 derailleur, are the adjustment screws still helpful?

FBOATSB

The spring is there to put some tension on the screw so it doesn't turn and lose adjustment, just like derailleur screws have. You could easily use a jam nut on the back side of the dropout to serve the same purpose. Me thinks the acorn nut is to retain the spring if installed on inside of dropout and also to protect threads on end of screw. Derailleur doesn't matter, as purpose of these screws is for lightning fast adjustment free wheel changes while racing, or fixing flats out on the road. Maybe somebody more expert could embellish.

JohnDThompson 

They're primarily to facilitate quick wheel changes in races. Once you've found the optimum spot for the axle, you can set the adjusters to limit travel in the dropout slot, so all you have to do is pull the wheel back until it hits the adjusters and tighten the quick release. You can accomplish the same thing without the adjusters with just a little fiddling.


As @FBOATSB notes above, the springs just hold the adjusters in place so they don't vibrate out of position. The knurled nuts on the ends just facilitate setting the adjustment. Whether the adjusters will be helpful to you is more a function of how often you remove the wheel and how difficult you find restoring it to the optimum location in the dropout slot. The shifting sensitivity the adjusters address is a result of the horizontal slot in the dropout, not the age of the derailleur.

danarello

FBOATSB and JohnDThompson, Thanks for weighing in. Armed with this knowledge, I can decide whether or not it is worth it to spend $10+ dollars on some NOS Adjustment Screws for the rear drop outs.

malcala622

Found

Thanks nesteel

Wildwood 

juvela

ISO - AFA frame pump part

-----

Have AFA (Poutrait-Morin) frame pump model 318 for which is needed a replacement piston cup. This is part number 22PE. Does anyone know a source for Poutrait-Morin small parts? Thank you.





​​​​​​​-----

Stormy Archer

I have a lot of pretty unremarkable vintage stuff. currently ISO gum Campy brake hoods NR (i think) for a 73 Raleigh Professional. They're the kind with the older sun logo and the word "campagnolo" in script across it.

Also would like a nice looking, tall and short (60mm) 1" quill stem with 26mm bar clamp. Prefer black but woudln't say no to a silver Nitto.

I have a Profile quill stem 120mm x 26mm clamp, random 25.8 seatpost, 30.9 from a Rockhopper, full Shimano light action group (i think) Suntour Lepree shifters and front deraileur, diacompe G brakes, Titec Malone bar, generic carbon clipless pedals, shimano 105 8 speed RD without pulleys, 9 speed (i think?) Campy Veloce RD....

Stormy Archer

oh also have some Dura Ace 7700 bar ends (9/8s) and some pink nylon toe straps. The nicer kind with metal buckle things. Not trying to sell here just trade or would give away most stuff.

FBOATSB

This cup of yours, is it not compatible with the 22 MM cups sold for Zefal/Lapize/Tornade etc?
Rubber washer 22 mm - ZEFAL

juvela

-----