Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Classic & Vintage
Reload this Page >

Cleaning up progress on my $10 1984 Schwinn World Sport

Notices
Classic & Vintage This forum is to discuss the many aspects of classic and vintage bicycles, including musclebikes, lightweights, middleweights, hi-wheelers, bone-shakers, safety bikes and much more.

Cleaning up progress on my $10 1984 Schwinn World Sport

Old 09-02-20, 08:06 AM
  #1  
tpadul 
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
tpadul's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Chesterton, Indiana
Posts: 299

Bikes: 1984 Sekai 5000 Superbe, 1987 Raleigh Seneca Mountain Tour, 1984 Schwinn World Sport, 1978 Raleigh Grand Prix, 2021 Handsome She Devil, Mystery Vintage purple road bike

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 99 Post(s)
Liked 124 Times in 61 Posts
Cleaning up progress on my $10 1984 Schwinn World Sport

Well I’ve been cleaning up some of the parts on my $10 find and the crankset is looking pretty shiny. I’m still waiting for my 44 piece toolkit to arrive that I bought off EBay so I can’t take the chain off yet till I get the tool. I’ll buy a brand new chain and I’m wondering now how will I know if the rear and front derailleurs are in good working condition? My bike repair stand is also on its way to me as well.








tpadul is offline  
Likes For tpadul:
Old 09-02-20, 08:34 AM
  #2  
branko_76 
Senior Member
 
branko_76's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: The Urban Shores Of Michigami
Posts: 1,745

Bikes: ........................................ .....Holdsworth "Special"..... .......Falcon "Special".......... .........Miyata 912........... ........................................

Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 701 Post(s)
Liked 667 Times in 417 Posts
The chain is not rusty and by the looks of the chainrings, it has not been used much. Remove it, let it soak in a solvent overnight and clean it with a scrub brush, it should last a few years depending on how much use and how well you maintain it, i.e. keeping it clean and lubricated which you would have to do with any chain.

Or, scrub it with soap and water, rinse well, let dry in the sun and then lubricate it.
branko_76 is offline  
Likes For branko_76:
Old 09-02-20, 08:40 AM
  #3  
branko_76 
Senior Member
 
branko_76's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: The Urban Shores Of Michigami
Posts: 1,745

Bikes: ........................................ .....Holdsworth "Special"..... .......Falcon "Special".......... .........Miyata 912........... ........................................

Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 701 Post(s)
Liked 667 Times in 417 Posts
My guess is the derailleurs are fine and just need to be taken apart and cleaned. Use a solvent and wire brush to remove the rust
branko_76 is offline  
Likes For branko_76:
Old 09-02-20, 09:47 AM
  #4  
Velo Mule
Senior Member
 
Velo Mule's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 2,097

Bikes: Trek 800 x 2, Schwinn Heavy Duti, Schwinn Traveler, Schwinn Le Tour Luxe, Schwinn Continental, Cannondale M400 and Lambert, Schwinn Super Sport

Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 801 Post(s)
Liked 1,000 Times in 654 Posts
Good job on the cleaning. It looks great. I am agreeing with branko_76 that the chain doesn't look too bad. I bought a chain checking tool recently, that is kind of handy not having to guess at how worn the chain is.

I like Oz Cycling chain maintenance videos and techniques. Even if you don't follow what he does, it is helpful.

Velo Mule is offline  
Likes For Velo Mule:
Old 09-02-20, 11:38 AM
  #5  
The Golden Boy 
Extraordinary Magnitude
 
The Golden Boy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Waukesha WI
Posts: 13,640

Bikes: 1978 Trek TX700; 1978/79 Trek 736; 1984 Specialized Stumpjumper Sport; 1984 Schwinn Voyageur SP; 1985 Trek 620; 1985 Trek 720; 1986 Trek 400 Elance; 1987 Schwinn High Sierra; 1990 Miyata 1000LT

Mentioned: 84 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2597 Post(s)
Liked 1,678 Times in 926 Posts
I am of the train of thought that the 84 and later Schwinn World Sport is a bike that punches well above it's pay grade. (that's a dumb mixed metaphor)

You've got a CrMo main frame with hi-ten stays and fork. The bike rides REALLY nicely. The Suntour AR stuff functions as well as any Suntour stuff does, it only gets more fancy looking.

You've got a kickstand plate- how cool is that!

I'd be tempted to get some Cyclone derailleurs and some fancy band-on shifters and dolly that bike up!!!
__________________
*Recipient of the 2006 Time Magazine "Person Of The Year" Award*

Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!

"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
The Golden Boy is offline  
Likes For The Golden Boy:
Old 09-02-20, 11:44 AM
  #6  
tpadul 
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
tpadul's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Chesterton, Indiana
Posts: 299

Bikes: 1984 Sekai 5000 Superbe, 1987 Raleigh Seneca Mountain Tour, 1984 Schwinn World Sport, 1978 Raleigh Grand Prix, 2021 Handsome She Devil, Mystery Vintage purple road bike

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 99 Post(s)
Liked 124 Times in 61 Posts
Originally Posted by The Golden Boy
I am of the train of thought that the 84 and later Schwinn World Sport is a bike that punches well above it's pay grade. (that's a dumb mixed metaphor)

You've got a CrMo main frame with hi-ten stays and fork. The bike rides REALLY nicely. The Suntour AR stuff functions as well as any Suntour stuff does, it only gets more fancy looking.

You've got a kickstand plate- how cool is that!

I'd be tempted to get some Cyclone derailleurs and some fancy band-on shifters and dolly that bike up!!!
Thanks!!! So I'll look up the Cyclone derailleurs and please tell me what "band-on shifters" are? Is that the brand name? Band-on? And I am going to get rid of the drop handlebars and replace them with some upright handlebars like the Tourist kind, what kind of brake levers should I get? Can I still use the same Dia-Compe brake levers with upright handlebars? My back really hates riding in the position with the drop handlebars.
tpadul is offline  
Old 09-02-20, 12:12 PM
  #7  
Shp4man
Senior Member
 
Shp4man's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: San Diego
Posts: 1,051

Bikes: 1989 Schwinn World Sport. 1994 Diamond Back Response Elite MTB. 1964 Schwinn Typhoon. 1974 Bridgestone Sprinter, 2015 Scott Sub 10 Citybike.

Mentioned: 17 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1687 Post(s)
Liked 78 Times in 34 Posts
Originally Posted by tpadul
Thanks!!! So I'll look up the Cyclone derailleurs and please tell me what "band-on shifters" are? Is that the brand name? Band-on? And I am going to get rid of the drop handlebars and replace them with some upright handlebars like the Tourist kind, what kind of brake levers should I get? Can I still use the same Dia-Compe brake levers with upright handlebars? My back really hates riding in the position with the drop handlebars.
It is possible to modify drop bar brakes to work on a upright bar. You need a big Cresent wrench or similar with a hole in the end to use as a lever, and carefully bend the levers.
These were drop bar bakes:
Shp4man is offline  
Likes For Shp4man:
Old 09-02-20, 12:18 PM
  #8  
The Golden Boy 
Extraordinary Magnitude
 
The Golden Boy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Waukesha WI
Posts: 13,640

Bikes: 1978 Trek TX700; 1978/79 Trek 736; 1984 Specialized Stumpjumper Sport; 1984 Schwinn Voyageur SP; 1985 Trek 620; 1985 Trek 720; 1986 Trek 400 Elance; 1987 Schwinn High Sierra; 1990 Miyata 1000LT

Mentioned: 84 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2597 Post(s)
Liked 1,678 Times in 926 Posts
Originally Posted by tpadul
Thanks!!! So I'll look up the Cyclone derailleurs and please tell me what "band-on shifters" are? Is that the brand name? Band-on? And I am going to get rid of the drop handlebars and replace them with some upright handlebars like the Tourist kind, what kind of brake levers should I get? Can I still use the same Dia-Compe brake levers with upright handlebars? My back really hates riding in the position with the drop handlebars.
If'n I were you, I'd take it one step at a time...

First- if you don't like the drop handlebars- address that first. So to me, that would mean bars and brake levers... you can keep the stem mount shifters until you decide you like the ride.

Bars like this would be pretty slick- if you can get them for around $20- score- and you get the grips...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1979-Schwin...IAAOSwhw9fA9yX

I've got nothing to do with the auction or seller- And you can poke around for other similar bars. Another thing- I like those Schwinn grips- I had a couple bikes that I was making upright bars work on- and those 1950s style Schwinn grips were my favorite of the bunch- I think I still have a set in the basement. "just in case."

Brake levers...

These guys look like they'd fill the spot pretty good:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-198...MAAOSwVFZfTb5i

Again, no affiliation with the seller or auction.



The 'band on' shifters I was referring to were shifters attached to a band clamp that would attach to your downtube-
__________________
*Recipient of the 2006 Time Magazine "Person Of The Year" Award*

Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!

"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
The Golden Boy is offline  
Likes For The Golden Boy:
Old 09-02-20, 12:19 PM
  #9  
tpadul 
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
tpadul's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Chesterton, Indiana
Posts: 299

Bikes: 1984 Sekai 5000 Superbe, 1987 Raleigh Seneca Mountain Tour, 1984 Schwinn World Sport, 1978 Raleigh Grand Prix, 2021 Handsome She Devil, Mystery Vintage purple road bike

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 99 Post(s)
Liked 124 Times in 61 Posts
Originally Posted by Shp4man
It is possible to modify drop bar brakes to work on a upright bar. You need a big Cresent wrench or similar with a hole in the end to use as a lever, and carefully bend the levers.
These were drop bar bakes:
Thank you!! That looks so awesome!! Those are the kind of handlebars I want!!!
tpadul is offline  
Old 09-02-20, 12:54 PM
  #10  
Shp4man
Senior Member
 
Shp4man's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: San Diego
Posts: 1,051

Bikes: 1989 Schwinn World Sport. 1994 Diamond Back Response Elite MTB. 1964 Schwinn Typhoon. 1974 Bridgestone Sprinter, 2015 Scott Sub 10 Citybike.

Mentioned: 17 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1687 Post(s)
Liked 78 Times in 34 Posts
Originally Posted by tpadul
Thank you!! That looks so awesome!! Those are the kind of handlebars I want!!!
That World Sport would be any easy one to add fenders, a rack , and maybe a 7 speed freewheel. Friction shifters are pretty flexible.
Shp4man is offline  
Likes For Shp4man:
Old 09-02-20, 01:25 PM
  #11  
WGB 
WGB
 
WGB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Niagara Region
Posts: 5,655

Bikes: Panasonic PT-4500

Mentioned: 45 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1783 Post(s)
Liked 2,305 Times in 1,365 Posts
Band on shifters



https://www.ebay.com/itm/SUNTOUR-6-S...00%7C7000%7C10
WGB is offline  
Likes For WGB:
Old 09-02-20, 01:34 PM
  #12  
SurferRosa
señor miembro
 
SurferRosa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Pac NW
Posts: 8,237

Bikes: '70s - '80s Campagnolo

Mentioned: 92 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3846 Post(s)
Liked 6,437 Times in 3,183 Posts
You could probably find an inexpensive Sugino or SR crankset with aluminum rings and rid the old steel set.

Suntour ratcheting shifters work better than most anything friction and look appropriate on a bike like this. I saw some in the bin at my lbs for under $10. Check with your co-op.

I’m wondering now how will I know if the rear and front derailleurs are in good working condition?
Remove. Fully overhaul. Replace. Test.

Last edited by SurferRosa; 09-02-20 at 01:38 PM.
SurferRosa is offline  
Old 09-02-20, 01:42 PM
  #13  
ryansu
Senior Member
 
ryansu's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Seattle WA
Posts: 2,870

Bikes: 2009 Handsome Devil, 1987 Trek 520 Cirrus, 1978 Motobecane Grand Touring, 1987 Nishiki Cresta GT, 1989 Specialized Allez Former bikes; 1986 Miyata Trail Runner, 1979 Miyata 912, 2011 VO Rando, 1999 Cannondale R800, 1986 Schwinn Passage

Mentioned: 72 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 796 Post(s)
Liked 522 Times in 367 Posts
Wald makes some nice inexpensive touring bars I have used on conversions just make sure your current stem clamp diameter and the bars are compatible https://cambriabike.com/products/wal...gaArZ8EALw_wcB

And Velo orange has some inexpensive brake levers to work on this type of barshttps://velo-orange.com/collections/...-brakes-levers

If you have a Bike Co-op near you they can also be a source of this type of component for not a ton of $$
ryansu is offline  
Likes For ryansu:
Old 09-02-20, 04:15 PM
  #14  
Murray Missile 
Senior Member
 
Murray Missile's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: 700 Ft. above sea level.
Posts: 3,205

Bikes: More than there were awhile ago.

Mentioned: 22 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 620 Post(s)
Liked 1,205 Times in 575 Posts
Soak the rusty chrome pieces like that front derailleur in white vinegar for a few hours, maybe 4 to 6 but don't leave them in the vinegar too long as it can cause the plating to peel more and will attack any aluminum pieces. A short soak won't effect the aluminum though. Most of the rust will wipe right off after about a 4 hour soak. To get what doesn't come off the first time you can then try soaking them a little longer or hit the remaining rust with #0000 steel wool soaked with WD-40, I prefer the steel wool and WD. Any areas where the plating is gone or heavily pitted can be coated with clear finger nail polish to protect them from moisture.
__________________
".....distasteful and easily triggered."
Murray Missile is offline  
Likes For Murray Missile:
Old 09-02-20, 05:55 PM
  #15  
The Golden Boy 
Extraordinary Magnitude
 
The Golden Boy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Waukesha WI
Posts: 13,640

Bikes: 1978 Trek TX700; 1978/79 Trek 736; 1984 Specialized Stumpjumper Sport; 1984 Schwinn Voyageur SP; 1985 Trek 620; 1985 Trek 720; 1986 Trek 400 Elance; 1987 Schwinn High Sierra; 1990 Miyata 1000LT

Mentioned: 84 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2597 Post(s)
Liked 1,678 Times in 926 Posts
Originally Posted by SurferRosa
You could probably find an inexpensive Sugino or SR crankset with aluminum rings and rid the old steel set.
I'm pretty sure that's a melt forged, swaged alloy chain set.
__________________
*Recipient of the 2006 Time Magazine "Person Of The Year" Award*

Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!

"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
The Golden Boy is offline  
Likes For The Golden Boy:
Old 09-04-20, 06:22 AM
  #16  
cooperryder
Senior Member
 
cooperryder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Dallas / Ft Worth
Posts: 1,151
Mentioned: 19 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 211 Post(s)
Liked 1,400 Times in 398 Posts
Your making good progress.
Lots of good tips on the thread.

Regarding the chain...I've had good luck using KMC 6,7,8 speed chains with the removable quick link.
I get them for about 12 to 14 bucks.


It sure makes it easier when cleaning chain, adjusting chain length or changing derailers.

I've also been pleased with these upright handlebars for about 35 bucks.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/SUNLITE-NORT...IAAOSwK7palz-V

Last edited by cooperryder; 09-04-20 at 06:45 AM.
cooperryder is offline  
Likes For cooperryder:
Old 09-04-20, 06:29 AM
  #17  
cooperryder
Senior Member
 
cooperryder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Dallas / Ft Worth
Posts: 1,151
Mentioned: 19 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 211 Post(s)
Liked 1,400 Times in 398 Posts
Originally Posted by Shp4man
It is possible to modify drop bar brakes to work on a upright bar. You need a big Cresent wrench or similar with a hole in the end to use as a lever, and carefully bend the levers.
These were drop bar bakes:
Thanks for the brake lever tip Shp4man .
Thats very innovative!
For a budget build that's will save the cost of new levers. I probably have 7 or 8 sets of similar levers in parts bin.

Last edited by cooperryder; 09-04-20 at 06:45 AM.
cooperryder is offline  
Old 09-08-20, 02:13 PM
  #18  
tpadul 
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
tpadul's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Chesterton, Indiana
Posts: 299

Bikes: 1984 Sekai 5000 Superbe, 1987 Raleigh Seneca Mountain Tour, 1984 Schwinn World Sport, 1978 Raleigh Grand Prix, 2021 Handsome She Devil, Mystery Vintage purple road bike

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 99 Post(s)
Liked 124 Times in 61 Posts
Worked more on the clean up this long weekend and removed all the cables and tossed them. Ran into a problem trying to remove the handlebars as the bolt was stripped so I did take the frame into the LBS and they are removing it for me. They also removed the freewheel for me from the rear wheel.

so I spent the weekend soaking parts and degreasing them and cleaned up the wheels.

Found cheap Bell 27 tubes at Walmart for $4.97 that will fit the 27 x 1 1/4 tires, ordered new tires online today.









Took apart the stem shifters and need some grease before I put those back together.

I think I found a spray paint match for the spots I want to touch up. Unfortunately the Goof Off heavy duty I was using to get the caked on Adhesive off the frame stripped away the paint In those spots
tpadul is offline  
Old 09-08-20, 03:34 PM
  #19  
madpogue 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Madison, WI USA
Posts: 6,876
Mentioned: 50 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2350 Post(s)
Liked 1,728 Times in 1,180 Posts
Without a chain checker tool, you can still _measure_ the chain for wear. Hold the chain tight and measure center-to-center over 24 pins (12 full links). On a new chain, that last pin will measure to exactly 12". If your chain measures more than 1/16" beyond the 12" mark over that 12-fulll-link span, it's worn and should be replaced.
madpogue is offline  
Old 09-08-20, 04:53 PM
  #20  
xiaoman1 
Senior Member
 
xiaoman1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: City of Angels
Posts: 5,152

Bikes: A few too many

Mentioned: 42 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1359 Post(s)
Liked 2,173 Times in 1,178 Posts
Originally Posted by tpadul
Worked more on the clean up this long weekend and removed all the cables and tossed them. Ran into a problem trying to remove the handlebars as the bolt was stripped so I did take the frame into the LBS and they are removing it for me. They also removed the freewheel for me from the rear wheel.

so I spent the weekend soaking parts and degreasing them and cleaned up the wheels.

Found cheap Bell 27 tubes at Walmart for $4.97 that will fit the 27 x 1 1/4 tires, ordered new tires online today.









Took apart the stem shifters and need some grease before I put those back together.

I think I found a spray paint match for the spots I want to touch up. Unfortunately the Goof Off heavy duty I was using to get the caked on Adhesive off the frame stripped away the paint In those spots
OP,
I would try an auto parts store a buy the premixed touch-up paint they have...I am certain that you will find a metallic paint that will suit your purposes better than the nonmetallic blue from Krylon....auto touchup in my estimation is also a better choice quality-wise than regular rattle can stuff from the big box stores.
Krylon used to be better before the changes made to make it more E.F.
Looking good.
GL, Ben
xiaoman1 is offline  
Likes For xiaoman1:
Old 09-09-20, 09:07 AM
  #21  
tpadul 
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
tpadul's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Chesterton, Indiana
Posts: 299

Bikes: 1984 Sekai 5000 Superbe, 1987 Raleigh Seneca Mountain Tour, 1984 Schwinn World Sport, 1978 Raleigh Grand Prix, 2021 Handsome She Devil, Mystery Vintage purple road bike

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 99 Post(s)
Liked 124 Times in 61 Posts
Originally Posted by xiaoman1
OP,
I would try an auto parts store a buy the premixed touch-up paint they have...I am certain that you will find a metallic paint that will suit your purposes better than the nonmetallic blue from Krylon....auto touchup in my estimation is also a better choice quality-wise than regular rattle can stuff from the big box stores.
Krylon used to be better before the changes made to make it more E.F.
Looking good.
GL, Ben
OK Thanks for that tip!! I'll stop by Autozone and bring the frame with me and see if they can help me color match the paint,
tpadul is offline  
Old 09-09-20, 03:02 PM
  #22  
ryansu
Senior Member
 
ryansu's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Seattle WA
Posts: 2,870

Bikes: 2009 Handsome Devil, 1987 Trek 520 Cirrus, 1978 Motobecane Grand Touring, 1987 Nishiki Cresta GT, 1989 Specialized Allez Former bikes; 1986 Miyata Trail Runner, 1979 Miyata 912, 2011 VO Rando, 1999 Cannondale R800, 1986 Schwinn Passage

Mentioned: 72 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 796 Post(s)
Liked 522 Times in 367 Posts
That Schwinn is getting some love! I like to put a bit of 3 in 1 lube on the pivot points (and springs) on the derailleurs and brakes after the clean up. I have dribbled lube into the FW which is better than nothing but the more I read and see on the forum the more I think the FW should either get replaced - what I normally do, or get taken apart and cleaned and lubed inside and reassembled. I leave that up to the experts like pastorbobnlnh (https://www.freewheelspa.com/) RJ the bike guy does have a
on it You Suntour Perfect is a desirable FW IIRC,
ryansu is offline  
Likes For ryansu:
Old 09-16-20, 12:32 PM
  #23  
tpadul 
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
tpadul's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Chesterton, Indiana
Posts: 299

Bikes: 1984 Sekai 5000 Superbe, 1987 Raleigh Seneca Mountain Tour, 1984 Schwinn World Sport, 1978 Raleigh Grand Prix, 2021 Handsome She Devil, Mystery Vintage purple road bike

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 99 Post(s)
Liked 124 Times in 61 Posts
Well the LBS helped me with the stripped fork bolt and we were able to get the handlebars and the fork and stem off the bike, I did go to an auto parts store in town that does custom paint matches for cars and I found a metallic blue color that matches the bike.
my cruiser handlebars have arrived and my new tires as well. Decided to get the cool looking Blue tires to match the frame.

I hope to spend some time this weekend working on getting the rust spots cleaned up on the frame.

Right now it’s a box of parts in a corner of the house but little by little it is coming together.

I want a more comfortable vintage type cruiser saddle instead of the one it has now so I’ve been looking at the vintage Mesinger Schwinn Saddles with the “S” on them.


Top color is the one that matches the current color. Took the frame to the Auto parts store and took the sample card outside in the natural light to compare with the frame.


tpadul is offline  
Old 09-16-20, 07:01 PM
  #24  
SurferRosa
señor miembro
 
SurferRosa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Pac NW
Posts: 8,237

Bikes: '70s - '80s Campagnolo

Mentioned: 92 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3846 Post(s)
Liked 6,437 Times in 3,183 Posts
Originally Posted by tpadul
The LBS helped me with the stripped fork bolt and we were able to get the handlebars and the fork and stem off the bike.
Was it the quill stem bolt? How did they dismantle it?

We think you'd like gumwall tires here.
SurferRosa is offline  
Old 09-16-20, 08:35 PM
  #25  
ramzilla
Senior Member
 
ramzilla's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Fernandina Beach FL
Posts: 3,605

Bikes: Vintage Japanese Bicycles, Tange, Ishiwata, Kuwahara

Mentioned: 22 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 700 Post(s)
Liked 321 Times in 251 Posts
It's been tough finding decent alloy riser bars on line lately. I recently ordered three pairs of these & I'm satisfied with the size & finish. But, I just checked ebay wheelandsprocket(215,634) & they're sold out again. Too bad. They were a great deal at around $22 each.


Kalloy AI092 Tourist Bar 70mm Rise 25.4x580mm Silver


Here's how they look on an upright conversion bike:


Last edited by ramzilla; 09-16-20 at 08:43 PM.
ramzilla is offline  
Likes For ramzilla:

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.