Adjusting and repacking an SPD MTB pedal
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Adjusting and repacking an SPD MTB pedal
My pedal seized up on me last week, knocking me out of a group ride.
I've opened it up but cannot figure out how to back off the cones a bit or access the bearings to lube them.
I've read my Zinn manual which shows several pedal styles nine of which match mine.
I've watched the Park video on SPDs but they show an accessible cone nut. .
I don't see one on mine.
How do I attack this?
I've opened it up but cannot figure out how to back off the cones a bit or access the bearings to lube them.
I've read my Zinn manual which shows several pedal styles nine of which match mine.
I've watched the Park video on SPDs but they show an accessible cone nut. .
I don't see one on mine.
How do I attack this?
#2
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Peter?- Looks like a radial contact cartridge bearing which will have no cone, the "lock nut" is only to secure the bearings/axle and has no bearing load aspect.
One trick that I've used for this arrangement is to clean out with solvent all the grease one can w/o taking the bearings apart. Then inject a bunch of grease into the pedal body, where the axle/bearing unit goes. The fresh grease can squeeze out through the bearing seals as you press/screw the axle/bearings back in place. Andy
One trick that I've used for this arrangement is to clean out with solvent all the grease one can w/o taking the bearings apart. Then inject a bunch of grease into the pedal body, where the axle/bearing unit goes. The fresh grease can squeeze out through the bearing seals as you press/screw the axle/bearings back in place. Andy
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AndrewRStewart
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Seems I can just knock that inner shaft out of the shiney outer body. It's just a Friction fit inside that bearing.
Is there only a bearing at one end - the outside end?
It looks like a cone shaped but on the inside end of the shaft but I don't see any bearings
Is there only a bearing at one end - the outside end?
It looks like a cone shaped but on the inside end of the shaft but I don't see any bearings
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Some low cost pedals use a bushing at the inner/thicker end. While a bushing is a bearing it isn't one with balls. Andy
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AndrewRStewart
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#5
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SPD refers to 'Shimano Pedaling Dynamics'. These pedals are not Shimano, but one of the innumerable clones. Authentic Shimano cleats may be compatible with these pedals. Or somewhat compatible, as I have found with older Ritchey pedals.
OK: enough of terminology - your pedals have a single cartridge bearing at the end, and a bushing at the near end. The bushing should be lubricated, and could last thousands of miles, but in theory and practice, 'real' bearings (cup and cone or carts both inboard and outboard) are superior in terms of frictional losses and longevity. And adjustability.
This particular cartridge design I recognize as being used by the many Shimano clones over the years. They were OK, but the bushings definitely developed play due to wear faster than Shimano pedals, even the cheapest ones. If you can find the exact cartridge (spindle and bearings), then it is plug and play.
Suggest you cut your losses, and buy some Shimano M520 pedals, one of the great bargains in cycling. The M520's are cheap, relatively light, and almost impossible to kill, apart from major impacts. When the innards of the M520s get dirty or wet, the pedal spindle and bearing 'cartridge' can be removed as a unit and serviced with fresh grease in no time. As in like 5 minutes; I've done it many times on client pedals.
OK: enough of terminology - your pedals have a single cartridge bearing at the end, and a bushing at the near end. The bushing should be lubricated, and could last thousands of miles, but in theory and practice, 'real' bearings (cup and cone or carts both inboard and outboard) are superior in terms of frictional losses and longevity. And adjustability.
This particular cartridge design I recognize as being used by the many Shimano clones over the years. They were OK, but the bushings definitely developed play due to wear faster than Shimano pedals, even the cheapest ones. If you can find the exact cartridge (spindle and bearings), then it is plug and play.
Suggest you cut your losses, and buy some Shimano M520 pedals, one of the great bargains in cycling. The M520's are cheap, relatively light, and almost impossible to kill, apart from major impacts. When the innards of the M520s get dirty or wet, the pedal spindle and bearing 'cartridge' can be removed as a unit and serviced with fresh grease in no time. As in like 5 minutes; I've done it many times on client pedals.
Last edited by Dave Mayer; 11-16-22 at 12:44 PM.
#6
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Peter?- Looks like a radial contact cartridge bearing which will have no cone, the "lock nut" is only to secure the bearings/axle and has no bearing load aspect.
One trick that I've used for this arrangement is to clean out with solvent all the grease one can w/o taking the bearings apart. Then inject a bunch of grease into the pedal body, where the axle/bearing unit goes. The fresh grease can squeeze out through the bearing seals as you press/screw the axle/bearings back in place. Andy
One trick that I've used for this arrangement is to clean out with solvent all the grease one can w/o taking the bearings apart. Then inject a bunch of grease into the pedal body, where the axle/bearing unit goes. The fresh grease can squeeze out through the bearing seals as you press/screw the axle/bearings back in place. Andy
That is a key advantage of the Shimano pedals, that you can remove the spindle/bearing 'cartridge', clean out the pedal body cavity, and then put about 1cc of fresh grease at the bottom. Then press the cartridge back into the pedal body, which serves to force all of the old grease out in favor of fresh stuff. Saves a lot of time and fussing with teeny tiny little balls and bearing preload/adjustments. This nice feature is what allows the '5-minute pedal overhaul' I referred to.
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and Good tips for moving forward.
i just don't like tossing bike parts (or appliances or anything else for that matter ) that is salvageable.
#8
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As I stated earlier, you may be able to find replacement complete cartridges - somewhere deep in the back of an at least 30-year old bike shop. Or my garage. But unlikely, and unlikely it is worth the cost and effort for what was a $30 pedal set.
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just to close the loop here, after 2 weeks soaking in diesel fuel I reassembled the pedal and..... it spun like a top.
virtually friction-free
so, another pedals saved from landfill.
many thanks again to you all.
virtually friction-free
so, another pedals saved from landfill.
many thanks again to you all.