NOS Sturmey Archer AWC (ii) Hub seems draggy
#1
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NOS Sturmey Archer AWC (ii) Hub seems draggy
Anyone have experience with the Sturmey Archer AWC (ii) or RC3 (ii) hubs? I recently built up an SA AWC (ii) coaster brake 3-speed hub for my daughter. It was a NOS hub, new in the box, and I laced it up. I recently installed it in the bike, and it seems to shift ok, but the hub doesn't coast well at all. In the stand, the bike shifts fine, but the rear wheel slows down fairly quickly. Are these hubs just draggy, or do I need to adjust the cones?
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Most all the current IGhs from the old world players (Shimano, SRAM/Sachs and SA/SunRace) have more drag when new then the classic AWs, Torpedo Boys and such. For the market they are designed for this isn't a deal breaker. Andy
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My SA XRD3 will spin 3 min+. I guess a coaster may be more draggy like my roller brake.
If yours is old then obviously it needs taken apart and relubed. There needs to be a bit of play.
My Nexus 7i was also tight when new.
There's a hundred YT videos for all the 3 speed hubs. The Nexus 7 ones are almost all in Russian, darn it.
If yours is old then obviously it needs taken apart and relubed. There needs to be a bit of play.
My Nexus 7i was also tight when new.
There's a hundred YT videos for all the 3 speed hubs. The Nexus 7 ones are almost all in Russian, darn it.
Last edited by GamblerGORD53; 05-07-22 at 11:05 PM.
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Anyone have experience with the Sturmey Archer AWC (ii) or RC3 (ii) hubs? I recently built up an SA AWC (ii) coaster brake 3-speed hub for my daughter. It was a NOS hub, new in the box, and I laced it up. I recently installed it in the bike, and it seems to shift ok, but the hub doesn't coast well at all. In the stand, the bike shifts fine, but the rear wheel slows down fairly quickly. Are these hubs just draggy, or do I need to adjust the cones?
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What's the build date (stamped on the hub)?
Manuals:
sturmey-archerheritagedotcom has the factory five-page technical document for the AWC(ii)
https://www.sturmey-archerheritage.co.../view-1123.pdf
sturmey-archerdotcom has a generic one-page instruction sheet:
https://www.sturmey-archer.com/files...EED%20HUBS.pdf
Sheldon on coaster brakes:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/coaster-brakes.html
Sutherlands manual pages on the AWC II
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/sutherl...-5-sturmey.pdf
Manuals:
sturmey-archerheritagedotcom has the factory five-page technical document for the AWC(ii)
https://www.sturmey-archerheritage.co.../view-1123.pdf
sturmey-archerdotcom has a generic one-page instruction sheet:
https://www.sturmey-archer.com/files...EED%20HUBS.pdf
Sheldon on coaster brakes:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/coaster-brakes.html
Sutherlands manual pages on the AWC II
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/sutherl...-5-sturmey.pdf
Last edited by tcs; 05-07-22 at 08:34 AM.
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Coaster brake hubs always have more drag than non-coaster hubs. But unloaded spin-down does not really demonstrate how the hub will perform under load.
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Don't see one, but it's a Sun-Race Sturmey-Archer so I know it's post-2000.
I found that the other day Googling. Section 2.3 seems to have some bearing:
Manuals:
sturmey-archerheritagedotcom has the factory five-page technical document for the AWC(ii)
https://www.sturmey-archerheritage.co.../view-1123.pdf
sturmey-archerheritagedotcom has the factory five-page technical document for the AWC(ii)
https://www.sturmey-archerheritage.co.../view-1123.pdf
2.3 Hub Bearing Adjustment
The right hand cone is preset at the Sturmey-Archer factory and should only be disturbed during a major service. The left-hand cone only is used for normal bearing adjustment.
1. Loosen left-hand cone locknut.
2. Adjust brake arm nut until very slight side play can be felt at the wheel rim, and none at the hub.
3. Holding the brake arm nut stationary tighten the cone locknut (Torque 27 Nm).
I tried loosening the cone locknut, but I couldn't budge it. That and the brake arm nut are an odd size, too. I'll have to come up with plan B.
The right hand cone is preset at the Sturmey-Archer factory and should only be disturbed during a major service. The left-hand cone only is used for normal bearing adjustment.
1. Loosen left-hand cone locknut.
2. Adjust brake arm nut until very slight side play can be felt at the wheel rim, and none at the hub.
3. Holding the brake arm nut stationary tighten the cone locknut (Torque 27 Nm).
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Fun fact: In July 1908 Harry Green set a new Lands End to John O'Groats record of 2 days, 19 hours and fifty minutes riding a Raleigh fitted with an ancestor of the AWC II, a Sturmey-Archer Type-C Tricoaster. This is the only time a rider using a coaster-braked bicycle held the record.