dedhed

Stop over, I'll set you right up with a splice.

Oneder

Worst comes to worst I'll get a rag and when I need to shift I'll just get off and do it by hand!

dsbrantjr

These are smaller and might be a closer fit: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...2574/205887624

dedhed

That's the size I should have linked. I use 1/16" ferrules all the time on bike cables. I use the cut off SS ones for trailer hitch pin lanyards, hanging bird feeders etc.

Retro Grouch 

I agree with you but what is there to lose? If it works (which I doubt) great. If it doesn't work, it will still be a learning process.

Oneder

The size I tried was 3/32. The 1/6 probably would have worked if I had only shifter cable but I didn't have any extra shifter cable just some old cantilever brake cables and housing to play with, which are too big to go in there. But the copper plates worked OK for now they just look ridiculous

_ForceD_

Could you please post some pictures of your work. Not to ridicule it, but...at least for me...a reference for future jury rigs and kludges.

Dan

Troul 

some light duty lawn mowers may have a cable selection with eyes attached to pick from. Otherwise, if you run short of line, try a tackle shop & look for low test braid wire & lead split shots.

70sSanO

Actually you may not need a splice per se. We mechanically fasten cables to derailleurs and brakes and ride thousands of miles.

You might be able to use a brake bolt and fit 2 shifter cables, or any bolt and nut. Add a couple of grooves, maybe a serrated washer.

John

Last ride 76 

Worst case bring a screwdriver to adjust the high gear stop to lift chain to a mid-range cog. Now you've got a functioning 2 speed. Need different choices? Adjust again. The TDF used to be run on single speed bikes HTFU (Said in a spirit of good will.)

Personally, if galvy cable, I would splay open the ends you want to connect, (after running the cable pieces through where they need to go) and kink the tips back on themselves (like mini grappling hooks, co-mingle them, and twist, with flat pliers, then wrap the mess together winding a single strand around to cover the splice bends and dip in flux, heat and solder.Wrap with electrical tape, wrap some bar tape around the down tube in the appropriate location, and get going on your Century.


whipping.... like with a piece of marlin line. Yeah that's what I meant about the single strand getting ound the bundle. think maybe 8-10 turns, looking like the tie around tied&soldered spokes.... (Thanks Ben, I haven't had a boat in 20 years.....)

79pmooney

If I were doing this and could summon the patience, I'd get my best press fittings for slightly bigger diameter that the cable, splice the cable as per the video in a previous post (no I did not watch it but I assume it demonstrated a typical nautical splice) then crimp down on the splice with a couple of fittings. Now the crimp only has to force the strands to bend over/under the opposing and crossing strands, not try to keep them from sliding. Like putting a tight whipping of marlin around a rope splice.

When I say "best" press fittings, I mean the best you can com up with, not the best out there. The OPs copper might well be it and should do this job just fine.

Another approach - search for marine wire slices. Sailors have been trusting their lives to those splices as long as galvanized and steel wire have existed. A good source will also tell you the percent loss of strength of the wire at the splice. (Be aware that any splice will "settle" with the first few uses. They tighten up to a smaller diameter and lengthen in the process. Completely normal and it will mess up your first few derailleur adjusts.

Edit, that said, dedhed's got just the tool. My 12 racing sailboat was rigged completely with the telephone lineman's scaled up version of that nicopress. Sill in my shop. Still does that job simply first class.

Ben

Last ride 76 

Probably will outlast the other cables.

aggiegrads

Do you have an extra straddle? You might be able to thread two shifter cables from the opposite direction and clamp down.

Last ride 76 

.

or a little plate with 2 cable holes and hole for bolt, nut and washer 20 minutes to drill and assemble tighten and clip cables. 5 more to protect the paint and 5 to adjust the RD.

70sSanO
A voice of sanity, in the wilds of BF..*
Another overthunk and over-worried problem by BF (me included)
Say it WAS a brake cable. Do it carefully and test it. take it easy and check it... Mts, be MORE careful.

* I'm sorry, that avatar makes me feel a little less confident about that sanity clause...

Oneder

I didn't want to get into the brake thing because you know how alarmist some people are, but if I did gimmick my brakes then I would obviously be very careful when braking and with my speed. And like I said this is not meant to be a long term thing just a stopgap so I don't have to stop riding while I wait on the mailman. But if just one brake were off I would not worry much, I used to ride like that all the time and I don't go that fast for the most part and if I do it's only when there is a long downhill and no pedestrials or other bikes around then I let loose...for about half a mile anyway lol

dabac

I’ve extended galvanized shifter cables Several times. Simply by winding them around each other in a lazy spiral, then soldering.It has worked so well I’d forgotten about it and been surprised by it next time the bike got a thorough service.
I’ve also used the crimp-on sleeves for electrical work. I pick a size where the cable just will fit through double. That’s been fine too. The only emergency fix I’ve tried that failed was using a screw-on electrical cable connector.

elcyc

Depends on WHERE the cable broke. My shifter just broke at the hand about 0.5 in. after the nipple. Has another used shifter with plenty of good slack after the shift nipple. I'm going to splice the orig (coming from derail.) to the new-used scrap I had around ... right at the downtube. Spiral loop the the two for about 12in, 7-8 plastic cable ties and then JB weld much of that. Pictures comin' soon!

veganbikes

Keep in mind this thread was dormant for 2 years!

For those looking for good advice just get a new cable they are pretty cheap even a galvanized cable is going to be better than zip ties and jb-weld. However don't use galvanized cables just get a proper slick stainless cable, install it correctly and replace it when needed. Cables are important pieces and broken ones are no good and wasting time and effort and extra money to bodge it together isn't sensible unless out on the road away from a shop. Be safe out there.

elcyc

THANKS DAD
Look, pops .... most of us on this forum have brand new cables, in multiple qty, in our parts drawers, and other parts galore up the wazoo .... had 'em fer years.
This here thread is 'bout experimentin', thinkin' outside the box, havin' fun.

elcyc

Some photos ....





Initial tests ... all equal to orig cable. Long-term ... I think JB splice will outlast the cable by decades.

crowbike

Did this out of curiosity. Piece of copper tubing from a scrapped water heater. Was crimped using a cable cutter tool. Connection was strong enough to lift a 40lb dumbbell.

veganbikes

Not a pops. Not even close, though yes you should thank your father. However the thread was dormant and the idea is poor. I am not saying one needs to have multiple cables in their parts drawers if they somehow can't but getting a new cable is easy most shops will have them and if you are that desperate their are some online brick and mortars and if you are really desperate you can help poor old Billionaire Jeff Bezos who is barely the worlds richest man and he can supply cables. One doesn't need a supply but yeah having some basic low cost repair parts in your bin is pretty handy. Though I guess if you are only using the bike for purely entertainment purposes and not for getting around than not having the bike may not matter but if you are commuting or using the bike to get places having minor things like cables and brake pads and things like that aren't a big draw on funds. I am not talking about having a spare XTR derailleur and carbon wheels and stuff like that but actual practical things you will use and need to properly maintain a bike for safe usage.

Maybe for you $5 per cable per year or maybe two years is a kingly sum but I think most folks can swing it especially if you buy coffee at a chain or artisan coffee shop or spend money on gas for short range trips or less important things like that. Obviously yes there are people out there struggling not talking about them in this case they are not here. Plus if you have money for $5-10 in JB Weld a cable is not far from that.

A bodge is meant to get you home in an emergency or to the next shop.

elcyc

Good!
I would never do or recommend any splicing on brake cables.

squirtdad

and no elegance at all....i.e ugly as crap. Somethings are meant to be experimented with....others are not.......

now get off my lawn whipper snapper

Iride01 

I don't recall the op saying that they wanted to do fun experiments with cables.