Bottom Bracket Question..
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Bottom Bracket Question..
I have a 2017 cervelo s3 (bbright) with a stock rotor 3D crankset on it. I’m looking for a new bottom bracket. Is this the right one?
https://wheelsmfg.com/bottom-bracket...-bb-black.html
I heard good things about wheels threaded cup bottom brackets.
thanks
https://wheelsmfg.com/bottom-bracket...-bb-black.html
I heard good things about wheels threaded cup bottom brackets.
thanks
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BBRight is basically a PF30 that is wider so you'll need a BBRight specific BB, especially since it's threaded together in the frame. Also your Rotor crank is 30mm so I'd go with this one, assuming you don't need ceramic bearings.
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I would double-check your Rotor spindle diameter, too - current Rotors with a 24mm spindle have "24" in the name, but I think that some of the previous models didn't. *If* your Rotor is a 30mm, the one that you linked should work, but you could also save yourself 20 bucks and go with this - https://wheelsmfg.com/bottom-bracket...nks-black.html
If you have a 24mm spindle, you'd want this (which is what I have for my Cervelo/Rotor P2M) - https://wheelsmfg.com/bottom-bracket...nks-black.html
If you have a 24mm spindle, you'd want this (which is what I have for my Cervelo/Rotor P2M) - https://wheelsmfg.com/bottom-bracket...nks-black.html
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What brad said. If you have a 30mm spindle, that's probably what you need. It does seem like Rotor 3D is 24mm though. There's also a 3D24, 3DF, 3D+ and 3D30. Which one do you have?
Source:
https://wheelsmfg.com/crankset-tech
If you have extra cash:
https://www.bbinfinite.com/products/bbright-30mm
https://www.hambini.com/product/bbri...ottom-bracket/
Source:
https://wheelsmfg.com/crankset-tech
If you have extra cash:
https://www.bbinfinite.com/products/bbright-30mm
https://www.hambini.com/product/bbri...ottom-bracket/
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I'm pretty sure OP has 30mm cranks. I have a 2016 Cervelo R3 and it came with Rotor 3D30 cranks stock which are the 30mm flavor.
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Yea the crankset is 100% 30mm.
The Bottom bracket I’m using now is a stock rotor pf4630. It’s a rotor 3d30
@brad
The one I linked is 61-79mm width
where the one you link is like 79mm width(which is the width of bbright BB) with outboard cups?
I don’t get it..I have a 30mm crank and bbright 46ID//79mm width BB
In the One you linked it says the spindle length must be at the same as a bb386 to work, I think the rotor 3d30 is 110mm?
just don’t wanna buy the wrong one, or will they both work?
thanks sorry..just trying to wrap my head around this.
The Bottom bracket I’m using now is a stock rotor pf4630. It’s a rotor 3d30
@brad
The one I linked is 61-79mm width
where the one you link is like 79mm width(which is the width of bbright BB) with outboard cups?
I don’t get it..I have a 30mm crank and bbright 46ID//79mm width BB
In the One you linked it says the spindle length must be at the same as a bb386 to work, I think the rotor 3d30 is 110mm?
just don’t wanna buy the wrong one, or will they both work?
thanks sorry..just trying to wrap my head around this.
Last edited by Dopefish905; 04-24-21 at 12:14 PM.
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Like someone said, "The good thing about bottom bracket standards is that there are so many to choose!"
I'm about out of my league here at this point. I'd reach out to Wheels Mfg. and see what they have to say. I would think that if they make a BBRight specific part then that's the way to go. It could be that either would work but I don't know. EDIT: I just noticed that the BB you originally link to does say it will go into a BBRight shell.
FWIW, I installed (had a LBS install, that is) a BBInfinite BBRight BB a few months after I got my bike because of some creaks. If I had to do it again I'd go with the Wheels Manufacturing option because it seems like it would be easier to service since it screws together. The BBInfinite takes some special tools from what I understand if I every have to take it out.
I'm about out of my league here at this point. I'd reach out to Wheels Mfg. and see what they have to say. I would think that if they make a BBRight specific part then that's the way to go. It could be that either would work but I don't know. EDIT: I just noticed that the BB you originally link to does say it will go into a BBRight shell.
FWIW, I installed (had a LBS install, that is) a BBInfinite BBRight BB a few months after I got my bike because of some creaks. If I had to do it again I'd go with the Wheels Manufacturing option because it seems like it would be easier to service since it screws together. The BBInfinite takes some special tools from what I understand if I every have to take it out.
Last edited by MidTNBrad; 04-24-21 at 03:42 PM.
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Hey I appreciate the info, it’s just when there’s 2 to choose from are both “right”or one is not? Just don’t wanna buy the wrong one and it’s plenty confusing it seems..I emailed wheels and see what they say, I thought I had the right one but it seems maybe there are 2 options but maybe not for my crank set? 🤯🤯🤯 complicated
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79mm is probably just the max width since they thread together. Both cups are press-fit, with the drive side having a little outboard extension. Presumably they're press-fitted by threading them together using suitable spline sockets and a through-bar for alignment. (Like found in their BB toolkits.) But I'm just guessing there. Never had any problems with my C3's BB so no reason to replace it, but if I did I'd probably get the Wheels Mfg toolkit and suitable BB. (24mm I suppose for R8000.)
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Wait... so does your current bottom bracket not have an outboard portion? A picture is worth a thousand words here. If both sides are inboard... none of the linked bottom brackets will work, most likely.
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79mm is probably just the max width since they thread together. Both cups are press-fit, with the drive side having a little outboard extension. Presumably they're press-fitted by threading them together using suitable spline sockets and a through-bar for alignment. (Like found in their BB toolkits.) But I'm just guessing there. Never had any problems with my C3's BB so no reason to replace it, but if I did I'd probably get the Wheels Mfg toolkit and suitable BB. (24mm I suppose for R8000.)
The second BB linked specifies only BBright, 30mm spindle and 79 mm shell width.
My guess is that both would work, but the BBright specific one is cheaper and heavier, and there is a difference in the bearings.
I'll be very interested to see which WM recommends. If both work, it would simply be a matter of weight vs cost, imho.
As how they are installed and function, they're of the same design, and similar to one I installed in a PF 30 BB. One side presses in with a BB press, the other simply screws into that, keeping everything perfecly aligned. No special tool for that, it's designed that way..
Some report that the one side doesn't even need a press to push it in, but when both sides thread together it's solid, which is the whole point. My experience is that the press-in side was very easy to do with my DIY threaded rod tool and the thread-in side was equally easy using two common BB cup tools. When they're tightened to spec, they are very solid. The solid-ness doesn't depend on the interference fit of the press fit BB, but the solid connection between the two sides through the threads, drawing them tight against the sides of the shell, in perfect alignment.
The OP's linked BB states that it is for 61-79mm shell, and this is because the depth of the threads allow that much difference. You tighten the two sides together to the specified torque, which is achieved when the two sides seat hard against the two sides of the BB shell, whether that's 61mm, 79 mm or anything in between. I don't know why the BBRight-specific version doesn't have a range like that - the threads seem to be adequate.
I'm probably missing some difference that I haven't listed - again interested in what WM says.
You might also check Praxis. They make similar products.. Their design is very similar, but slightly different in how it lodges within the shell.
Last edited by Camilo; 04-24-21 at 11:10 PM.
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I’ll let everyone know what they say when they get back to me, the second one linked has the drive side bearing sitting outside the frame(outboard)(which I don’t have at the moment with my rotor pf4630 BB both bearings are pressed flush inside the shell)but my rotor 3d30 crank set does have a 11.5m spacer behind the chainring so maybe that one would work if I remove the spacer? But the first one I linked both bearings press flush inside the shell like I have now.they seem to both be for Pf30 bbright BB but do they require different spindle lengths if the drive side bearing sits outside the shell and not flush? Can’t figure it out🤯
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I’ll let everyone know what they say when they get back to me, the second one linked has the drive side bearing sitting outside the frame(outboard)(which I don’t have at the moment with my rotor pf4630 BB both bearings are pressed flush inside the shell)but my rotor 3d30 crank set does have a 11.5m spacer behind the chainring so maybe that one would work if I remove the spacer? But the first one I linked both bearings press flush inside the shell like I have now.they seem to both be for Pf30 bbright BB but do they require different spindle lengths if the drive side bearing sits outside the shell and not flush? Can’t figure it out🤯
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It looks to me that 3D30 crank is compatible with BB386? So that means it is a long spindle and in traditional BBRight needs an outboard spacer as you need a total of about 90mm. So the typical PF30 style BBRight BB (with internal bearings shown in first WM link) will need a spacer at least on one side. I guess outboard bearings a la HGII or BB386 EVO are an option. (AFAIK, BB386 EVO is just Shimano HGII with a 30mm spindle).
scott s.
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scott s.
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Yup, apparently both will work(though no explanation) but the comment about the spacer and BB bearings mounted flush or outboard drive side bearing and no spacer is spot on! Good on you sir, I’m flush mount with a 11.5mm spacer on DS.(easy google for the part)
Wonder which is the best choice though?
I’m guessing both would keep chain line optimal now? Or is one better then the other? 🤣🤣🤣 #RabbitHoles
Wonder which is the best choice though?
I’m guessing both would keep chain line optimal now? Or is one better then the other? 🤣🤣🤣 #RabbitHoles
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Yup, apparently both will work(though no explanation) but the comment about the spacer and BB bearings mounted flush or outboard drive side bearing and no spacer is spot on! Good on you sir, I’m flush mount with a 11.5mm spacer on DS.(easy google for the part)
Wonder which is the best choice though?
I’m guessing both would keep chain line optimal now? Or is one better then the other? 🤣🤣🤣 #RabbitHoles
Wonder which is the best choice though?
I’m guessing both would keep chain line optimal now? Or is one better then the other? 🤣🤣🤣 #RabbitHoles
I don't know enough engineering to be able to tell you definitively whether inboard or outboard will be better. Inboard has the advantage of being perfectly aligned with the frame's bearing surface. You can imagine that if the bearing is too far outboard and the bottom bracket is really flexy, you could end up applying a torque to the bearing surface rather than a radial force like it was designed for. I'd say that any potential stiffness gains from a wider bearing stance are wiped out due to this - unless you have a really stiff bottom bracket (not talking about the frame. Talking about the actual bb that you insert). Though I highly doubt you'd be able to notice the difference.
The only benefit of outboard, then, is probably that the spindle has more distance to flex to handle any parallel misalignment. Getting a one-piece BB like Hambini/BBinfinite will probably help with this too.
Last edited by smashndash; 04-26-21 at 06:29 PM.
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To give you item number 6,721 to consider , the bottom bracket linked to your original post has angular contact bearings. It's my understanding that they are more sensitive to preload and have to be adjusted properly.
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Based on this: https://rotoramerica.com/products/3d30-crankset
you should be ok with angular contact but I wouldn't say it's strictly necessary
#20
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Supposed that you got the spindle diameter right, there are always two things included in the price of the WheelsMFG BB in the link (I have it also for different spindle size).
One thing is the adapter (two piece) and the other is (are) the bearings which are the expensive ones (Red, angular contact ABEC5).
The reason that you might want to go to WheelsMFG is to change spindle flavor e.g. to go to Hollowtech II of shimano which is 24mm bore /90mm width like I did.
WheelsMFG BBs give the benefit that you install the adapter and then you just replace bearings but other than that it is pointless to pay this cash just to stay in 30mm. Pay for the bearings alone and think of what is the need you are trying to satisfy.
One thing is the adapter (two piece) and the other is (are) the bearings which are the expensive ones (Red, angular contact ABEC5).
The reason that you might want to go to WheelsMFG is to change spindle flavor e.g. to go to Hollowtech II of shimano which is 24mm bore /90mm width like I did.
WheelsMFG BBs give the benefit that you install the adapter and then you just replace bearings but other than that it is pointless to pay this cash just to stay in 30mm. Pay for the bearings alone and think of what is the need you are trying to satisfy.