Convert BB from cup&cone to cartridge
#26
Really Old Senior Member
Without getting really expensive (Phil's BB's) it sounds like your best bet is a 127mm BB.
I've not seen longer than that in a cartridge.
Spindle length might be a bit nebulous.
Imagine cutting 3mm off the DS. You cranks will still be in the same place.
Actual measurement is at a specified ref point on the taper where the taper is a certain size.
Some spindles may not adhere to common specs.
You're pretty much stuck with trying a 127 and hoping.
I've not seen longer than that in a cartridge.
Spindle length might be a bit nebulous.
Imagine cutting 3mm off the DS. You cranks will still be in the same place.
Actual measurement is at a specified ref point on the taper where the taper is a certain size.
Some spindles may not adhere to common specs.
You're pretty much stuck with trying a 127 and hoping.
Last edited by Bill Kapaun; 09-18-20 at 11:39 AM.
#27
Half way there
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Yep. And if your chain-line is not quite right, you can add a few spacers between the cartridge and the drive side shell to move the spindle out a bit. Moving it in would require machining the shell, which you probably don't want to do.
The bottom line is for a triple crank, a chain-line off a few mm one way or the other is not a big deal.
Good luck on this project. Let us know how it works out.
The bottom line is for a triple crank, a chain-line off a few mm one way or the other is not a big deal.
Good luck on this project. Let us know how it works out.
#28
Really Old Senior Member
Yep. And if your chain-line is not quite right, you can add a few spacers between the cartridge and the drive side shell to move the spindle out a bit. Moving it in would require machining the shell, which you probably don't want to do.
The bottom line is for a triple crank, a chain-line off a few mm one way or the other is not a big deal.
Good luck on this project. Let us know how it works out.
The bottom line is for a triple crank, a chain-line off a few mm one way or the other is not a big deal.
Good luck on this project. Let us know how it works out.
It's probably cheaper to "eat" the 1st BB then pay the cost of having the shell faced.
#29
SE Wis
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70mm English threaded BB are not unheard of in 80's Asian built frames.
https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-m...sh-thread.html
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...et-i-need.html
https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-m...sh-thread.html
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...et-i-need.html
#30
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Yeah, considering the root words axis and spin, that'd be a valid distinction.
#31
Newbie
Thread Starter
70mm English threaded BB are not unheard of in 80's Asian built frames.
https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-m...sh-thread.html
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...et-i-need.html
https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-m...sh-thread.html
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...et-i-need.html
Don't know how they work but could that get me the 2mm I need to get to 70mm?
Someone suggested I could thread the non drive side end of the cartridge further beyond flush to eat the 2mm space.
No problems with crank on the NDS.
Any comments?
#32
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I went to velo-orange site and found that they have spacers for 68mm cartridges.
Don't know how they work but could that get me the 2mm I need to get to 70mm?
Someone suggested I could thread the non drive side end of the cartridge further beyond flush to eat the 2mm space.
No problems with crank on the NDS.
Any comments?
Don't know how they work but could that get me the 2mm I need to get to 70mm?
Someone suggested I could thread the non drive side end of the cartridge further beyond flush to eat the 2mm space.
No problems with crank on the NDS.
Any comments?
68mm cartridge in a 70mm shell NDS buried.
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