Show us your Raleigh Super Course!
#1952
Senior Member
Likes For daka:
#1953
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: northern michigan
Posts: 13,317
Bikes: '77 Colnago Super, '76 Fuji The Finest, '88 Cannondale Criterium, '86 Trek 760, '87 Miyata 712
Mentioned: 19 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 659 Post(s)
Liked 595 Times
in
313 Posts
There is no bottom bracket and I read it’s english threading. Not being familiar with British ‘72 stuff, will there be a problem with finding one? Will Shimano fit this?
#1954
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 17,146
Mentioned: 481 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3803 Post(s)
Liked 6,639 Times
in
2,602 Posts
The BB only cares about threading, not manufacturer! In my experience, it's somewhat of a crapshoot as to whether it'll be standard English/BSA threading or Raleigh-proprietary threading. I think it depends on whether the Raleigh brazer was right-handed or left-handed (BSA shells to the left; Raleigh-threaded shells to the right).
Likes For nlerner:
#1955
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: northern michigan
Posts: 13,317
Bikes: '77 Colnago Super, '76 Fuji The Finest, '88 Cannondale Criterium, '86 Trek 760, '87 Miyata 712
Mentioned: 19 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 659 Post(s)
Liked 595 Times
in
313 Posts
The BB only cares about threading, not manufacturer! In my experience, it's somewhat of a crapshoot as to whether it'll be standard English/BSA threading or Raleigh-proprietary threading. I think it depends on whether the Raleigh brazer was right-handed or left-handed (BSA shells to the left; Raleigh-threaded shells to the right).
#1956
Senior Member
The Raleigh threaded bottom brackets are easy to spot because they are wider, as much as 71-72 mm .
Likes For daka:
#1957
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: SE Wisconsin
Posts: 773
Bikes: Trek 970, Bianchi Volpe,Casati
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 356 Post(s)
Liked 120 Times
in
86 Posts
Finally picked one up
Just picked her up today. Don't know if I got a good deal, but paint and chrome look ok, snd original.
needs adjusting and front wheel doesn't spin well. Will see where it goes.,, I guess another winter project 😏
needs adjusting and front wheel doesn't spin well. Will see where it goes.,, I guess another winter project 😏
Likes For rossiny:
#1958
elcraft
Wow, looks completely original excepting the derailleur mechs, Suntour was;not OEM. But a common period upgrade from the usual Huret challenger or Simplex that was OEM.paint and chrome look stunning.
#1959
Senior Member
Very pretty! I'm certain you will enjoy it.
#1960
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: SE Wisconsin
Posts: 773
Bikes: Trek 970, Bianchi Volpe,Casati
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 356 Post(s)
Liked 120 Times
in
86 Posts
Thanks
thanks , was a birthday gift to myself ! Yes I been looking at it, and doesnt seem used almost no scratches ! I paid 275, he wouldn't budge lower on price from 300 asking . It needs all the bearing checked and cleaned and greased , cables adjusted etc. Probably pads. I noticed if I push on crank I can get a bit of side to side movement , but it will be fun checking and redoing . The seat is riding on the seat post almost. I might need a new post and see if seat can be used . I like a longer stem and brake levers .. Any suggestions will be helpful I may post in thud vintage section . Thanks again
#1961
The dropped
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 2,144
Bikes: Pake C'Mute Touring/Commuter Build, 1989 Kona Cinder Cone, 1995 Trek 5200, 1973 Raleigh Super Course FG, 1960/61 Montgomery Ward Hawthorne "thrift" 3 speed, by Hercules (sold) : 1966 Schwinn Deluxe Racer (sold)
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1739 Post(s)
Liked 1,014 Times
in
696 Posts
thanks , was a birthday gift to myself ! Yes I been looking at it, and doesnt seem used almost no scratches ! I paid 275, he wouldn't budge lower on price from 300 asking . It needs all the bearing checked and cleaned and greased , cables adjusted etc. Probably pads. I noticed if I push on crank I can get a bit of side to side movement , but it will be fun checking and redoing . The seat is riding on the seat post almost. I might need a new post and see if seat can be used . I like a longer stem and brake levers .. Any suggestions will be helpful I may post in thud vintage section . Thanks again
The good news is that your bike is guaranteed to use a standard English threaded bottom bracket, so you can put any modern or vintage replacement in once you measure the DS spindle length.
Likes For Unca_Sam:
#1962
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: SE Wisconsin
Posts: 773
Bikes: Trek 970, Bianchi Volpe,Casati
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 356 Post(s)
Liked 120 Times
in
86 Posts
Good to hear
My experience with the Normandy hubs found on earlier Raleigh lightweights was that the cones are "soft" and tended to pit easily. It has been difficult finding one today with intact cones.
The good news is that your bike is guaranteed to use a standard English threaded bottom bracket, so you can put any modern or vintage replacement in once you measure the DS spindle length.
The good news is that your bike is guaranteed to use a standard English threaded bottom bracket, so you can put any modern or vintage replacement in once you measure the DS spindle length.
#1963
Senior Member
If you decide to rebuild the bottom bracket, measure one of the bearing balls before charging ahead and replacing with fresh 1/4" balls - Both of my Nervar cotterless bottom brackets used 7/32" balls.
And don't beat yourself up on the price you paid - there are Super Courses out there for less but this one is particularly pristine and is well worth paying a little more. You didn't get taken.
And don't beat yourself up on the price you paid - there are Super Courses out there for less but this one is particularly pristine and is well worth paying a little more. You didn't get taken.
Last edited by daka; 12-25-20 at 11:05 AM.
Likes For daka:
#1965
Senior Member
I wouldn't have said anything except that one of those bottom brackets was original to my Super Course Mk II which looks just like @rossiny 's (except that mine is not in such nice shape). The other Nervar bottom bracket was purchased off of eBay, its origins unknown, and was installed in the Raleigh "Intercourse" project. It too wouldn't go together with 1/4 inch balls. The "tracks" on the spindle and cups were in the wrong places and the adjustable cup had way too many threads showing.
Once quick measurement with calipers should avoid any headaches.
Once quick measurement with calipers should avoid any headaches.
#1966
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: SE Wisconsin
Posts: 773
Bikes: Trek 970, Bianchi Volpe,Casati
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 356 Post(s)
Liked 120 Times
in
86 Posts
thanks all, will be cleaning and repacking so will check the bearing measurement . There is some movement when I checked it by pushing back and forth on the crank.
#1967
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: northern michigan
Posts: 13,317
Bikes: '77 Colnago Super, '76 Fuji The Finest, '88 Cannondale Criterium, '86 Trek 760, '87 Miyata 712
Mentioned: 19 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 659 Post(s)
Liked 595 Times
in
313 Posts
Here’s a few pics of the old Super Course I grabbed today. This one isn’t as nice as I usually bring into the shop, but when you get a classic in trade for a set of pedals, you just grab it.
Just a few pics for now. It should look better by spring (my shop is a bit chilly this time of year.
Just a few pics for now. It should look better by spring (my shop is a bit chilly this time of year.
#1968
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Minneapolis
Posts: 934
Bikes: 1968 Raleigh Super Course, 1972 Raleigh Professional, 1975 Raleigh International, 1978 Raleigh Professional, 1985 Raleigh Prestige, 1972 Schwinn Paramount, 1980 Schwinn Voyageur 11.8, 1960 Carlton Franco Suisse Peugeot PX10, 1972 Motobecane Le Champ
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 321 Post(s)
Liked 688 Times
in
351 Posts
Here’s a few pics of the old Super Course I grabbed today. This one isn’t as nice as I usually bring into the shop, but when you get a classic in trade for a set of pedals, you just grab it.
Just a few pics for now. It should look better by spring (my shop is a bit chilly this time of year.
Just a few pics for now. It should look better by spring (my shop is a bit chilly this time of year.
#1970
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: northern michigan
Posts: 13,317
Bikes: '77 Colnago Super, '76 Fuji The Finest, '88 Cannondale Criterium, '86 Trek 760, '87 Miyata 712
Mentioned: 19 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 659 Post(s)
Liked 595 Times
in
313 Posts
Quick question on this ‘71 BB. The threads are the same as a more modern BB cup so can I assume that the DS fixed cup is reverse thread (clockwise to loosen)?
#1971
Senior Member
Correct. Clockwise to loosen.
But, being conflict-averse, I don't remove those unless they are worn/damaged badly enough that they have to be replaced. For a clean & regrease, I'd suggest doing that with the cup left installed.
But, being conflict-averse, I don't remove those unless they are worn/damaged badly enough that they have to be replaced. For a clean & regrease, I'd suggest doing that with the cup left installed.
Last edited by daka; 12-28-20 at 11:36 AM.
Likes For daka:
Likes For oneclick:
#1973
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: northern michigan
Posts: 13,317
Bikes: '77 Colnago Super, '76 Fuji The Finest, '88 Cannondale Criterium, '86 Trek 760, '87 Miyata 712
Mentioned: 19 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 659 Post(s)
Liked 595 Times
in
313 Posts
I typically do the same but this cup is the only one on the bike. So it will come off and another BB in it’s place. Thanx for the help, I will hope it isn’t fused in there to tightly.
#1974
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: northern michigan
Posts: 13,317
Bikes: '77 Colnago Super, '76 Fuji The Finest, '88 Cannondale Criterium, '86 Trek 760, '87 Miyata 712
Mentioned: 19 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 659 Post(s)
Liked 595 Times
in
313 Posts
The paint restoration begins!
#1975
The dropped
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 2,144
Bikes: Pake C'Mute Touring/Commuter Build, 1989 Kona Cinder Cone, 1995 Trek 5200, 1973 Raleigh Super Course FG, 1960/61 Montgomery Ward Hawthorne "thrift" 3 speed, by Hercules (sold) : 1966 Schwinn Deluxe Racer (sold)
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1739 Post(s)
Liked 1,014 Times
in
696 Posts
That bronze green is notoriously difficult to reproduce. Add in 45+ years of oxidation and the cumulative hours of UV exposure, and your matched paint, if accomplished, might not match everywhere. I opted to polish and stabilize what mine had. A phosphatizing treatment for the bare steel will provide a strong curb to rust formation on the exposed steel.
Likes For Unca_Sam: