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Show us your Raleigh Super Course!

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Old 12-23-20, 08:53 AM
  #1951  
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Originally Posted by nlerner
Nervex lugs, cursive downtube font = ‘71 or ‘72 (and shifters are replacements).
Thank you. That certainly narrows things down a bit.
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Old 12-23-20, 11:55 AM
  #1952  
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Originally Posted by nlerner
Nervex lugs, cursive downtube font = ‘71 or ‘72 (and shifters are replacements).
The clamp for the front derailleur looks like a Simplex, rather than Huret, so I'll guess '72.
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Old 12-23-20, 02:27 PM
  #1953  
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Originally Posted by daka
The clamp for the front derailleur looks like a Simplex, rather than Huret, so I'll guess '72.
If this is the case, I have a Simplex shifter and both derailleurs. I’m excited to nab it Saturday.

There is no bottom bracket and I read it’s english threading. Not being familiar with British ‘72 stuff, will there be a problem with finding one? Will Shimano fit this?
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Old 12-23-20, 03:34 PM
  #1954  
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Originally Posted by OldsCOOL
There is no bottom bracket and I read it’s english threading. Not being familiar with British ‘72 stuff, will there be a problem with finding one? Will Shimano fit this?
The BB only cares about threading, not manufacturer! In my experience, it's somewhat of a crapshoot as to whether it'll be standard English/BSA threading or Raleigh-proprietary threading. I think it depends on whether the Raleigh brazer was right-handed or left-handed (BSA shells to the left; Raleigh-threaded shells to the right).
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Old 12-23-20, 03:46 PM
  #1955  
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Originally Posted by nlerner
The BB only cares about threading, not manufacturer! In my experience, it's somewhat of a crapshoot as to whether it'll be standard English/BSA threading or Raleigh-proprietary threading. I think it depends on whether the Raleigh brazer was right-handed or left-handed (BSA shells to the left; Raleigh-threaded shells to the right).
Right. Yup I just didn’t know what to expect with a ‘72 from England. I’ll be digging through my parts bins with this one. Other than my 1898 Glenwood path racer, this is my oldest restore in C&V territory. Can’t wait. Been wanting a Super Course since 2011. Thanx for the tip!
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Old 12-23-20, 04:29 PM
  #1956  
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The Raleigh threaded bottom brackets are easy to spot because they are wider, as much as 71-72 mm .
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Old 12-24-20, 09:46 PM
  #1957  
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Finally picked one up

Just picked her up today. Don't know if I got a good deal, but paint and chrome look ok, snd original.
needs adjusting and front wheel doesn't spin well. Will see where it goes.,, I guess another winter project 😏

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Old 12-24-20, 10:50 PM
  #1958  
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Wow, looks completely original excepting the derailleur mechs, Suntour was;not OEM. But a common period upgrade from the usual Huret challenger or Simplex that was OEM.paint and chrome look stunning.
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Old 12-25-20, 12:09 AM
  #1959  
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Very pretty! I'm certain you will enjoy it.
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Old 12-25-20, 03:22 AM
  #1960  
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Thanks

Originally Posted by elcraft
Wow, looks completely original excepting the derailleur mechs, Suntour was;not OEM. But a common period upgrade from the usual Huret challenger or Simplex that was OEM.paint and chrome look stunning.
thanks , was a birthday gift to myself ! Yes I been looking at it, and doesnt seem used almost no scratches ! I paid 275, he wouldn't budge lower on price from 300 asking . It needs all the bearing checked and cleaned and greased , cables adjusted etc. Probably pads. I noticed if I push on crank I can get a bit of side to side movement , but it will be fun checking and redoing . The seat is riding on the seat post almost. I might need a new post and see if seat can be used . I like a longer stem and brake levers .. Any suggestions will be helpful I may post in thud vintage section . Thanks again
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Old 12-25-20, 07:30 AM
  #1961  
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Originally Posted by rossiny
thanks , was a birthday gift to myself ! Yes I been looking at it, and doesnt seem used almost no scratches ! I paid 275, he wouldn't budge lower on price from 300 asking . It needs all the bearing checked and cleaned and greased , cables adjusted etc. Probably pads. I noticed if I push on crank I can get a bit of side to side movement , but it will be fun checking and redoing . The seat is riding on the seat post almost. I might need a new post and see if seat can be used . I like a longer stem and brake levers .. Any suggestions will be helpful I may post in thud vintage section . Thanks again
My experience with the Normandy hubs found on earlier Raleigh lightweights was that the cones are "soft" and tended to pit easily. It has been difficult finding one today with intact cones.
The good news is that your bike is guaranteed to use a standard English threaded bottom bracket, so you can put any modern or vintage replacement in once you measure the DS spindle length.
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Old 12-25-20, 10:44 AM
  #1962  
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Good to hear

Originally Posted by Unca_Sam
My experience with the Normandy hubs found on earlier Raleigh lightweights was that the cones are "soft" and tended to pit easily. It has been difficult finding one today with intact cones.
The good news is that your bike is guaranteed to use a standard English threaded bottom bracket, so you can put any modern or vintage replacement in once you measure the DS spindle length.
yes I just noticed movement in the spindle area , don't know if just need clean and repack ? Definitely needs seat new or adjust ,,next to post 😬
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Old 12-25-20, 11:01 AM
  #1963  
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If you decide to rebuild the bottom bracket, measure one of the bearing balls before charging ahead and replacing with fresh 1/4" balls - Both of my Nervar cotterless bottom brackets used 7/32" balls.

And don't beat yourself up on the price you paid - there are Super Courses out there for less but this one is particularly pristine and is well worth paying a little more. You didn't get taken.

Last edited by daka; 12-25-20 at 11:05 AM.
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Old 12-26-20, 04:20 AM
  #1964  
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Originally Posted by daka
If you decide to rebuild the bottom bracket, measure one of the bearing balls before charging ahead and replacing with fresh 1/4" balls - Both of my Nervar cotterless bottom brackets used 7/32" balls.
Just measured a Nervar Star BB - 1/4" balls.
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Old 12-26-20, 11:27 AM
  #1965  
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I wouldn't have said anything except that one of those bottom brackets was original to my Super Course Mk II which looks just like @rossiny 's (except that mine is not in such nice shape). The other Nervar bottom bracket was purchased off of eBay, its origins unknown, and was installed in the Raleigh "Intercourse" project. It too wouldn't go together with 1/4 inch balls. The "tracks" on the spindle and cups were in the wrong places and the adjustable cup had way too many threads showing.

Once quick measurement with calipers should avoid any headaches.
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Old 12-26-20, 11:38 AM
  #1966  
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thanks all, will be cleaning and repacking so will check the bearing measurement . There is some movement when I checked it by pushing back and forth on the crank.
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Old 12-26-20, 01:56 PM
  #1967  
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Here’s a few pics of the old Super Course I grabbed today. This one isn’t as nice as I usually bring into the shop, but when you get a classic in trade for a set of pedals, you just grab it.

Just a few pics for now. It should look better by spring (my shop is a bit chilly this time of year.





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Old 12-26-20, 02:52 PM
  #1968  
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Originally Posted by OldsCOOL
Here’s a few pics of the old Super Course I grabbed today. This one isn’t as nice as I usually bring into the shop, but when you get a classic in trade for a set of pedals, you just grab it.

Just a few pics for now. It should look better by spring (my shop is a bit chilly this time of year.





Suntour Superbe shifting and Nervex lugs. I like it!
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Old 12-26-20, 02:56 PM
  #1969  
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Originally Posted by Pcampeau
Suntour Superbe shifting and Nervex lugs. I like it!
As much as I love Superbe, this one will go back to Simplex. But...those Superbe parts will fit into my parts bin nicely. Thanks!
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Old 12-28-20, 10:03 AM
  #1970  
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Quick question on this ‘71 BB. The threads are the same as a more modern BB cup so can I assume that the DS fixed cup is reverse thread (clockwise to loosen)?
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Old 12-28-20, 10:37 AM
  #1971  
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Correct. Clockwise to loosen.

But, being conflict-averse, I don't remove those unless they are worn/damaged badly enough that they have to be replaced. For a clean & regrease, I'd suggest doing that with the cup left installed.

Last edited by daka; 12-28-20 at 11:36 AM.
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Old 12-28-20, 10:38 AM
  #1972  
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Originally Posted by OldsCOOL
Quick question on this ‘71 BB. The threads are the same as a more modern BB cup so can I assume that the DS fixed cup is reverse thread (clockwise to loosen)?
If it's a Raleigh - any kind of Raleigh - and the DS cup is *not* a left-hand thread, someone's butchered it.
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Old 12-28-20, 11:50 AM
  #1973  
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Originally Posted by daka
Correct. Clockwise to loosen.

But, being conflict-averse, I don't remove those unless they are worn/damaged badly enough that they have to be replaced. For a clean & regrease, I'd suggest doing that with the cup left installed.
I typically do the same but this cup is the only one on the bike. So it will come off and another BB in it’s place. Thanx for the help, I will hope it isn’t fused in there to tightly.
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Old 12-28-20, 11:51 AM
  #1974  
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The paint restoration begins!


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Old 12-28-20, 12:04 PM
  #1975  
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Originally Posted by OldsCOOL
The paint restoration begins!


That bronze green is notoriously difficult to reproduce. Add in 45+ years of oxidation and the cumulative hours of UV exposure, and your matched paint, if accomplished, might not match everywhere. I opted to polish and stabilize what mine had. A phosphatizing treatment for the bare steel will provide a strong curb to rust formation on the exposed steel.
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