1950s Bianchi
08-27-19, 08:58 PM
#26
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54 years old, 4 kids, but so far only a grandpup! The only son that would be remotely interested in the bike is 5’9” and lives in a tiny place in Boston- no go on two counts. Lots to think about. Guess sellers really can’t be choosers- but still hoping just the right fit for the bike will be out there. Thank you for all of the info and advice. Believe my dad may have raced the bike - amateur type stuff. Unsure re the fenders - maybe there was a different bike at some point or something.
Any idea how tall your father was? I'm guessing that bike is about 56cm from the center of the bottom bracket (crank spindle), to the top of the seat tube.
It problably would be OK for someone from about 5'9 to about 5'11 or so, more or less.
So, perhaps slightly on the tall side for your son, but not too outlandish.
From the seat, your father was around 6'?
08-28-19, 01:10 AM
#27
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I thought almost all Italian racing bike’s shipped with that particular fender-set back in the 50s/60s, painted to match the frame. I have a black and silver set that came from a Cinelli Mod. A - exactly the same fenders, and I’ve seen them on a lot of other older Italian bikes too. Somewhere I read that bike shops accumulated piles of them because no one wanted them on their racers, so they were usually lost to the bike they came with.
What ever the case, you have what appears to be an almost completely original mid - 50‘s Bianchi Campione Del Mondo that needs a good deal of cosmetic work, and “All original” commands a premium. This would have been an expensive bike so keep an eye out for any associated paper work like receipts that your dad might have saved, they’ll also add to the value. BTW, if it was me, I’d remove the generator and lights, as they are not really original to this bike.
The SpeedBicycles Museum has 4 of these ( 1953/54/55/56),with the serial number of their 1953 model being about 300 less than your dad’s. The number on the 1954 bike and all subsequent years start with a ‘B” prefix, so 1953 seems the best guess. All four Bianchi’s are listed as made with Columbus tubing and have a a 25.0mm seatpost. All are similarly equipped to your dads bike
Bianchi Campione del Mondo 1953?- speedbicycles.com
Bianchi Campione del Mondo 1954?- speedbicycles.com
Bianchi Campione del Mondo 1955?- speedbicycles.com
Bianchi Campione del Mondo 1956?- speedbicycles.com
What ever the case, you have what appears to be an almost completely original mid - 50‘s Bianchi Campione Del Mondo that needs a good deal of cosmetic work, and “All original” commands a premium. This would have been an expensive bike so keep an eye out for any associated paper work like receipts that your dad might have saved, they’ll also add to the value. BTW, if it was me, I’d remove the generator and lights, as they are not really original to this bike.
The SpeedBicycles Museum has 4 of these ( 1953/54/55/56),with the serial number of their 1953 model being about 300 less than your dad’s. The number on the 1954 bike and all subsequent years start with a ‘B” prefix, so 1953 seems the best guess. All four Bianchi’s are listed as made with Columbus tubing and have a a 25.0mm seatpost. All are similarly equipped to your dads bike
Bianchi Campione del Mondo 1953?- speedbicycles.com
Bianchi Campione del Mondo 1954?- speedbicycles.com
Bianchi Campione del Mondo 1955?- speedbicycles.com
Bianchi Campione del Mondo 1956?- speedbicycles.com
Last edited by d_dutchison; 08-28-19 at 01:22 AM.
08-28-19, 02:08 AM
#28
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I meant your father's grandkids... so yes!
Any idea how tall your father was? I'm guessing that bike is about 56cm from the center of the bottom bracket (crank spindle), to the top of the seat tube.
It problably would be OK for someone from about 5'9 to about 5'11 or so, more or less.
So, perhaps slightly on the tall side for your son, but not too outlandish.
From the seat, your father was around 6'?
Any idea how tall your father was? I'm guessing that bike is about 56cm from the center of the bottom bracket (crank spindle), to the top of the seat tube.
It problably would be OK for someone from about 5'9 to about 5'11 or so, more or less.
So, perhaps slightly on the tall side for your son, but not too outlandish.
From the seat, your father was around 6'?
08-28-19, 02:25 AM
#29
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Wow, he looks tall.
Perhaps the frame size is a little deceptive with the high tire clearance.
You would have to take a few measurements to confirm. As I mentioned, one of the key measurements is the center of the bottom bracket to the top of the seat tube. Also the length of the top tube from the center of the seat tube to the center of the head tube. Both of those measurements are independent of the tires. I'm used to reading in centimeters, but one can convert from inches. Those measurements are also handy to know when selling a bike (one often finds oneself guessing).
I don't pay a lot of attention to stand-over, but with the tires inflated, one would measure from the top of the top tube to the ground.
Nonetheless, if you lowered the seat by about 3", that should fit someone 5" or 6" shorter than your father. The frame is probably slightly tall for someone 5'9", but not outrageous. It may have been slightly small for your father.
Perhaps the frame size is a little deceptive with the high tire clearance.
You would have to take a few measurements to confirm. As I mentioned, one of the key measurements is the center of the bottom bracket to the top of the seat tube. Also the length of the top tube from the center of the seat tube to the center of the head tube. Both of those measurements are independent of the tires. I'm used to reading in centimeters, but one can convert from inches. Those measurements are also handy to know when selling a bike (one often finds oneself guessing).
I don't pay a lot of attention to stand-over, but with the tires inflated, one would measure from the top of the top tube to the ground.
Nonetheless, if you lowered the seat by about 3", that should fit someone 5" or 6" shorter than your father. The frame is probably slightly tall for someone 5'9", but not outrageous. It may have been slightly small for your father.
08-28-19, 02:27 AM
#30
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One thing to note, of course, is that tubular (sewup) tires have fallen out of favor for city bikes/commuter bikes. Nonetheless, the new ones are better now than 60 years ago, and they are still used in some racing circles, and even in off-road cyclocross.
08-28-19, 02:31 AM
#31
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Thread Starter
I thought almost all Italian racing bike’s shipped with that particular fender-set back in the 50s/60s, painted to match the frame. I have a black and silver set that came from a Cinelli Mod. A - exactly the same fenders, and I’ve seen them on a lot of other older Italian bikes too. Somewhere I read that bike shops accumulated piles of them because no one wanted them on their racers, so they were usually lost to the bike they came with.
What ever the case, you have what appears to be an almost completely original mid - 50‘s Bianchi Campione Del Mondo that needs a good deal of cosmetic work, and “All original” commands a premium. This would have been an expensive bike so keep an eye out for any associated paper work like receipts that your dad might have saved, they’ll also add to the value. BTW, if it was me, I’d remove the generator and lights, as they are not really original to this bike.
The SpeedBicycles Museum has 4 of these ( 1953/54/55/56),with the serial number of their 1953 model being about 300 less than your dad’s. The number on the 1954 bike and all subsequent years start with a ‘B” prefix, so 1953 seems the best guess. All four Bianchi’s are listed as made with Columbus tubing and have a a 25.0mm seatpost. All are similarly equipped to your dads bike
Bianchi Campione del Mondo 1953?- speedbicycles.com
Bianchi Campione del Mondo 1954?- speedbicycles.com
Bianchi Campione del Mondo 1955?- speedbicycles.com
Bianchi Campione del Mondo 1956?- speedbicycles.com
What ever the case, you have what appears to be an almost completely original mid - 50‘s Bianchi Campione Del Mondo that needs a good deal of cosmetic work, and “All original” commands a premium. This would have been an expensive bike so keep an eye out for any associated paper work like receipts that your dad might have saved, they’ll also add to the value. BTW, if it was me, I’d remove the generator and lights, as they are not really original to this bike.
The SpeedBicycles Museum has 4 of these ( 1953/54/55/56),with the serial number of their 1953 model being about 300 less than your dad’s. The number on the 1954 bike and all subsequent years start with a ‘B” prefix, so 1953 seems the best guess. All four Bianchi’s are listed as made with Columbus tubing and have a a 25.0mm seatpost. All are similarly equipped to your dads bike
Bianchi Campione del Mondo 1953?- speedbicycles.com
Bianchi Campione del Mondo 1954?- speedbicycles.com
Bianchi Campione del Mondo 1955?- speedbicycles.com
Bianchi Campione del Mondo 1956?- speedbicycles.com
08-28-19, 02:46 AM
#32
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Thread Starter
Wow, he looks tall.
Perhaps the frame size is a little deceptive with the high tire clearance.
You would have to take a few measurements to confirm. As I mentioned, one of the key measurements is the center of the bottom bracket to the top of the seat tube. Also the length of the top tube from the center of the seat tube to the center of the head tube. Both of those measurements are independent of the tires. I'm used to reading in centimeters, but one can convert from inches. Those measurements are also handy to know when selling a bike (one often finds oneself guessing).
I don't pay a lot of attention to stand-over, but with the tires inflated, one would measure from the top of the top tube to the ground.
Nonetheless, if you lowered the seat by about 3", that should fit someone 5" or 6" shorter than your father. The frame is probably slightly tall for someone 5'9", but not outrageous. It may have been slightly small for your father.
Perhaps the frame size is a little deceptive with the high tire clearance.
You would have to take a few measurements to confirm. As I mentioned, one of the key measurements is the center of the bottom bracket to the top of the seat tube. Also the length of the top tube from the center of the seat tube to the center of the head tube. Both of those measurements are independent of the tires. I'm used to reading in centimeters, but one can convert from inches. Those measurements are also handy to know when selling a bike (one often finds oneself guessing).
I don't pay a lot of attention to stand-over, but with the tires inflated, one would measure from the top of the top tube to the ground.
Nonetheless, if you lowered the seat by about 3", that should fit someone 5" or 6" shorter than your father. The frame is probably slightly tall for someone 5'9", but not outrageous. It may have been slightly small for your father.
08-28-19, 08:18 AM
#33
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Interesting bike.
I don't think I have ever seen pump pegs attached to Campagnolo shifter bosses & cable guides.
LOTS of brake clearance!!!
Those appear to be "tubular" or "sewup" tires, and glued to the rim. I don't think I ever tried running a generator off of sewups, but it does make me cringe a bit!!!
I don't see a close-up of the brake levers, but based on the calipers (and the general shape of the levers), my guess is that those are "Universal" levers too, and as I mentioned, good reproduction hoods are available.
Cloth handlebar tape is also available.
Or, the choice is always to keep it as-is.
Are those integrated headset bearing cups? I think Bianchi did that on a few bikes.
I don't think I have ever seen pump pegs attached to Campagnolo shifter bosses & cable guides.
LOTS of brake clearance!!!
Those appear to be "tubular" or "sewup" tires, and glued to the rim. I don't think I ever tried running a generator off of sewups, but it does make me cringe a bit!!!
I don't see a close-up of the brake levers, but based on the calipers (and the general shape of the levers), my guess is that those are "Universal" levers too, and as I mentioned, good reproduction hoods are available.
Cloth handlebar tape is also available.
Or, the choice is always to keep it as-is.
Are those integrated headset bearing cups? I think Bianchi did that on a few bikes.
The calipers are Universal Model 51, which would be era correct. The levers also appear to be era correct Universal models,
Bianchi used the integrated headset on their high grade models from at least the late 1940s to well into the 1960s.
Regarding the pump holders, here's a portion of the relevant page from catalog 12 (1953) showing these parts. The umbrella clip integrated into the lever clamp is also visible in the mid-1950s Bianchi catalogues.
08-28-19, 08:37 AM
#34
Full Member
Nice bike!
It looks like it was too small of a frame for your fathers height.
I would normally be concerned that the seat post and handlebar stem might be stuck in the frame. but, since the seat post and handlebar stem appear to be set high this probably will not be a problem.
Having the fenders is a nice addition.
It looks like it was too small of a frame for your fathers height.
I would normally be concerned that the seat post and handlebar stem might be stuck in the frame. but, since the seat post and handlebar stem appear to be set high this probably will not be a problem.
Having the fenders is a nice addition.
Last edited by gbi; 08-28-19 at 08:42 AM.
08-28-19, 09:21 AM
#35
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Regarding the tubeset, there is an extant Bianchi catalogue reportedly from 1955 that contains this model. The frame description is, ""Telaio in tubi speciali ad alta resistenza" (i.e , frame in special high resistance tubes). There's no mention of Columbus or butting and this could even be interpreted as hi-tensile tubing. It's worth noting that during this period Bianchi classified their pro grade models as "Aquila" (i.e Eagles).
Normally, tubing grades can be determined by the diameter of the seat post, as it reflects the thinness of the tube wall relative to the outside diameter of the seat tube. In this case, 25.0mm is a very small diameter and would suggest a hi-tensile tubing. However, looking at the top of the seat lug on the Speedbicycles samples, some appear to have two annular rings. This would suggest a sleeve inside the seat tube. Cinelli used a similar seat tube sleeve, though theirs was only about a 0.5mm thick and resulted in a 26.2 mm post. If it does have a sleeve, this would go a long way towards explaining the small seat post size but based on pictures alone it's difficult to gauge the actual internal diameter of the seat tube and consequently the grade of the tubeset.
Normally, my next step would be to check inside the bottom of the fork's steerer tube for the five helical ridges that are indicative of a Columbus steerer tube. Alternately, the fork could be removed and the outside of the steerer tube checked for Columbus' dove logo. However, I'm not sure exactly when the Columbus steerer tube was introduced. Based on a Cinelli I had, I know it dates back to at least the early 1960s but I don't know if it dates back to the mid-1950s. Consequently, a non-Columbus steerer tube won't prove anything. Still, if the steerer tube can be verified as Columbus, then it's almost certainly a Columbus tubeset.
Normally, tubing grades can be determined by the diameter of the seat post, as it reflects the thinness of the tube wall relative to the outside diameter of the seat tube. In this case, 25.0mm is a very small diameter and would suggest a hi-tensile tubing. However, looking at the top of the seat lug on the Speedbicycles samples, some appear to have two annular rings. This would suggest a sleeve inside the seat tube. Cinelli used a similar seat tube sleeve, though theirs was only about a 0.5mm thick and resulted in a 26.2 mm post. If it does have a sleeve, this would go a long way towards explaining the small seat post size but based on pictures alone it's difficult to gauge the actual internal diameter of the seat tube and consequently the grade of the tubeset.
Normally, my next step would be to check inside the bottom of the fork's steerer tube for the five helical ridges that are indicative of a Columbus steerer tube. Alternately, the fork could be removed and the outside of the steerer tube checked for Columbus' dove logo. However, I'm not sure exactly when the Columbus steerer tube was introduced. Based on a Cinelli I had, I know it dates back to at least the early 1960s but I don't know if it dates back to the mid-1950s. Consequently, a non-Columbus steerer tube won't prove anything. Still, if the steerer tube can be verified as Columbus, then it's almost certainly a Columbus tubeset.
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08-28-19, 10:24 AM
#36
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Panama, explains all the surface rust. Cool bike. Good luck with your sale.
08-28-19, 10:57 AM
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08-28-19, 01:39 PM
#38
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Nice bike!
It looks like it was too small of a frame for your fathers height.
I would normally be concerned that the seat post and handlebar stem might be stuck in the frame. but, since the seat post and handlebar stem appear to be set high this probably will not be a problem.
Having the fenders is a nice addition.
It looks like it was too small of a frame for your fathers height.
I would normally be concerned that the seat post and handlebar stem might be stuck in the frame. but, since the seat post and handlebar stem appear to be set high this probably will not be a problem.
Having the fenders is a nice addition.
frame, but thought I’d share.
08-28-19, 02:29 PM
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I suppose that is the question about an old bike like that. Does one wish to put it back to "showroom", or to admit the years of multi-use from racing to training to commuting.
Nonetheless, as @T-Mar and I have mentioned, sewups and bottle generators seem like a bad idea. Nothing against using the generator on the bike, but there is the potential for it to wear into the relatively thin tread of the tire.
Still, in the 1950's and 1960's, there might not have been a lot of choice in bike lights. Carbide lamps would have been on the way out, and non-rechargable battery lights would have just been coming onto the scene.
08-28-19, 02:42 PM
#41
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Excellent! Having the receipt is a bonus to a collector. How much value it adds I can't say, but I'd pay more for a bike this old that had one and I'm no collector.
There seems to be a bit of a misunderstanding here. As best I can tell, you're dad's bike doesn't have a pump. What it does have are some very unusual mounts to hold one, which have drawn a few comments here. Pumps were often carried by cyclists however, so if you come across it you should include it. Here are some typical examples: https://www.google.com/search?q=vintage+bicycle+air+pump&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjBtsybtqbkAhUVvJ4KHX5RBb0Q_AU IESgB&biw=1779&bih=894 Having the pump would make me want to pay a little more.
The light set consists of the generator and red tail light at the back (basically mounted as a single unit) and the head lamp. These would not have been mounted on most any racing bike of that era although local laws may well have required them in this case. It's just not something you would expect to see on a racing machine. It strongly detracts from the aesthetics of the machine and contradicts the accepted style for such bikes so it might also detract from the price some are willing to pay.
BTW, lots of collectors restore older touring and roadster bikes, and this light set on its own would definitely have value for them. It's a Miller generator and light set, a bit more info here: https://rustybikebell.wordpress.com/...erator-lights/
HaHa, Now you see why we are so passionate about these old bikes! BTW, your pictures are excellent and would be all you really need to sell the bike online,
The light set consists of the generator and red tail light at the back (basically mounted as a single unit) and the head lamp. These would not have been mounted on most any racing bike of that era although local laws may well have required them in this case. It's just not something you would expect to see on a racing machine. It strongly detracts from the aesthetics of the machine and contradicts the accepted style for such bikes so it might also detract from the price some are willing to pay.
BTW, lots of collectors restore older touring and roadster bikes, and this light set on its own would definitely have value for them. It's a Miller generator and light set, a bit more info here: https://rustybikebell.wordpress.com/...erator-lights/
HaHa, Now you see why we are so passionate about these old bikes! BTW, your pictures are excellent and would be all you really need to sell the bike online,
08-28-19, 02:55 PM
#42
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It does look more "Racy" without them. But, it was an interesting piece of history.
I suppose that is the question about an old bike like that. Does one wish to put it back to "showroom", or to admit the years of multi-use from racing to training to commuting.
Nonetheless, as @T-Mar and I have mentioned, sewups and bottle generators seem like a bad idea. Nothing against using the generator on the bike, but there is the potential for it to wear into the relatively thin tread of the tire.
Still, in the 1950's and 1960's, there might not have been a lot of choice in bike lights. Carbide lamps would have been on the way out, and non-rechargable battery lights would have just been coming onto the scene.
I suppose that is the question about an old bike like that. Does one wish to put it back to "showroom", or to admit the years of multi-use from racing to training to commuting.
Nonetheless, as @T-Mar and I have mentioned, sewups and bottle generators seem like a bad idea. Nothing against using the generator on the bike, but there is the potential for it to wear into the relatively thin tread of the tire.
Still, in the 1950's and 1960's, there might not have been a lot of choice in bike lights. Carbide lamps would have been on the way out, and non-rechargable battery lights would have just been coming onto the scene.
I emailed the Speedbicycles museum that was mentioned here in the forum to get their thoughts on the bike and to see if they have any interest. They're in Switzerland, so they'd definitely need to take care of the shipping. Not sure they'd want it with all of the rust, but maybe they know someone that would and would make it worth the shipping. I guess I'm getting to the point where I need to decide where and how to sell it, and how much to ask. Going to wait and see what they have to say first. Need to get it out of here before my husband takes the PB Blaster to it - he's a bit of a bull in a china shop when it comes to projects - and he keeps telling me to PB Blast it. I need to save it from him.
08-28-19, 03:11 PM
#43
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Excellent! Having the receipt is a bonus to a collector. How much value it adds I can't say, but I'd pay more for a bike this old that had one and I'm no collector.
There seems to be a bit of a misunderstanding here. As best I can tell, you're dad's bike doesn't have a pump. What it does have are some very unusual mounts to hold one, which have drawn a few comments here. Pumps were often carried by cyclists however, so if you come across it you should include it. Here are some typical examples: https://www.google.com/search?q=vint...w=1779&bih=894 Having the pump would make me want to pay a little more.
The light set consists of the generator and red tail light at the back (basically mounted as a single unit) and the head lamp. These would not have been mounted on most any racing bike of that era although local laws may well have required them in this case. It's just not something you would expect to see on a racing machine. It strongly detracts from the aesthetics of the machine and contradicts the accepted style for such bikes so it might also detract from the price some are willing to pay.
BTW, lots of collectors restore older touring and roadster bikes, and this light set on its own would definitely have value for them. It's a Miller generator and light set, a bit more info here: https://rustybikebell.wordpress.com/...erator-lights/
Uh, oh - just showed my husband examples of the missing pump. He helped to clean out the garage at my dad's and believes it is in the dumpster we have in the driveway to get rid of things. I may need to send him dumpster diving. Ugh! He also pitched the spear that my dad used while diving that had the moray eel bite marks on it. He says he's saving us from ourselves.
I thought the generator and pump were one and the same. Learned something new as I read more. This bike terminology is mind boggling (but I talk a mean nurse)
Will have to check out the light and generator potential on Ebay.
HaHa, Now you see why we are so passionate about these old bikes! BTW, your pictures are excellent and would be all you really need to sell the bike online,
There seems to be a bit of a misunderstanding here. As best I can tell, you're dad's bike doesn't have a pump. What it does have are some very unusual mounts to hold one, which have drawn a few comments here. Pumps were often carried by cyclists however, so if you come across it you should include it. Here are some typical examples: https://www.google.com/search?q=vint...w=1779&bih=894 Having the pump would make me want to pay a little more.
The light set consists of the generator and red tail light at the back (basically mounted as a single unit) and the head lamp. These would not have been mounted on most any racing bike of that era although local laws may well have required them in this case. It's just not something you would expect to see on a racing machine. It strongly detracts from the aesthetics of the machine and contradicts the accepted style for such bikes so it might also detract from the price some are willing to pay.
BTW, lots of collectors restore older touring and roadster bikes, and this light set on its own would definitely have value for them. It's a Miller generator and light set, a bit more info here: https://rustybikebell.wordpress.com/...erator-lights/
Uh, oh - just showed my husband examples of the missing pump. He helped to clean out the garage at my dad's and believes it is in the dumpster we have in the driveway to get rid of things. I may need to send him dumpster diving. Ugh! He also pitched the spear that my dad used while diving that had the moray eel bite marks on it. He says he's saving us from ourselves.
I thought the generator and pump were one and the same. Learned something new as I read more. This bike terminology is mind boggling (but I talk a mean nurse)
Will have to check out the light and generator potential on Ebay.
HaHa, Now you see why we are so passionate about these old bikes! BTW, your pictures are excellent and would be all you really need to sell the bike online,
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08-28-19, 03:15 PM
#44
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Nooooooooooooooooooooo! FWIW, If I saw this sitting on my local Craigslist at $1000, in it's present condition, complete w. fenders and paperwork,I'd be tempted. I'd think that is kind of expensive, but I'd be tempted.
08-28-19, 03:24 PM
#45
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If you want to do a mild "patina" restoration, you might post a note in the Classic/Vintage subforum. Or perhaps ask for this thread to be moved.
There are some people who swear by using tinfoil to shine up rusty chrome, and perhaps galvanized surfaces (spokes).
I had an old Raleigh 3-speed that I hit with Steel Wool, then clear-coated it. It took off some of the paint topcoat, but the result was quite stunning.
Aluminum, of course, can also be polished, if you wish. But, you may choose to preserve the "patina" look.
Depending on how deep you delve into the bike, you may need some special tools for the bottom bracket, hubs, and perhaps headset. I've always taken crank cotters out with a hammer, but it is generally destructive to the cotters. There may be cotter presses that are less destructive.
But, the last thing you have to decide. "Clean" looks good. There are a few different types of buyers. Some would like a bike "ready to ride". Others would prefer doing their own restoration.
There are some people who swear by using tinfoil to shine up rusty chrome, and perhaps galvanized surfaces (spokes).
I had an old Raleigh 3-speed that I hit with Steel Wool, then clear-coated it. It took off some of the paint topcoat, but the result was quite stunning.
Aluminum, of course, can also be polished, if you wish. But, you may choose to preserve the "patina" look.
Depending on how deep you delve into the bike, you may need some special tools for the bottom bracket, hubs, and perhaps headset. I've always taken crank cotters out with a hammer, but it is generally destructive to the cotters. There may be cotter presses that are less destructive.
But, the last thing you have to decide. "Clean" looks good. There are a few different types of buyers. Some would like a bike "ready to ride". Others would prefer doing their own restoration.
08-28-19, 04:05 PM
#46
Member
Thread Starter
My area is probably not a great place to sell, but it's sure a great place for a ride. They call it the "Switzerland of Ohio" - lots of hilly, curvy, smooth roads. I see some serious looking cyclists on the roads all summer/fall - but they don't live here.
08-28-19, 04:12 PM
#47
Member
Thread Starter
If you want to do a mild "patina" restoration, you might post a note in the Classic/Vintage subforum. Or perhaps ask for this thread to be moved.
There are some people who swear by using tinfoil to shine up rusty chrome, and perhaps galvanized surfaces (spokes).
I had an old Raleigh 3-speed that I hit with Steel Wool, then clear-coated it. It took off some of the paint topcoat, but the result was quite stunning.
Aluminum, of course, can also be polished, if you wish. But, you may choose to preserve the "patina" look.
Depending on how deep you delve into the bike, you may need some special tools for the bottom bracket, hubs, and perhaps headset. I've always taken crank cotters out with a hammer, but it is generally destructive to the cotters. There may be cotter presses that are less destructive.
But, the last thing you have to decide. "Clean" looks good. There are a few different types of buyers. Some would like a bike "ready to ride". Others would prefer doing their own restoration.
There are some people who swear by using tinfoil to shine up rusty chrome, and perhaps galvanized surfaces (spokes).
I had an old Raleigh 3-speed that I hit with Steel Wool, then clear-coated it. It took off some of the paint topcoat, but the result was quite stunning.
Aluminum, of course, can also be polished, if you wish. But, you may choose to preserve the "patina" look.
Depending on how deep you delve into the bike, you may need some special tools for the bottom bracket, hubs, and perhaps headset. I've always taken crank cotters out with a hammer, but it is generally destructive to the cotters. There may be cotter presses that are less destructive.
But, the last thing you have to decide. "Clean" looks good. There are a few different types of buyers. Some would like a bike "ready to ride". Others would prefer doing their own restoration.
08-28-19, 04:35 PM
#48
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Even if the tires seem bad, many people like to ship wheels with the tires installed as a small element of added protection.
You've already figured out how to get the seat off. You have the nut, right?
The only other thing that is frequently removed would be the handlebar stem. And, many people here like to know that it isn't stuck. Unscrew the bolt on top of the stem a couple of turns (3/16 inch or so). Give the bolt a good whack with a hammer (with wood block?). Squeeze the front wheel between your knees (ok, do this before removing the wheel), and see if the handlebars twist. A little penetrating oil doesn't hurt. If the fork doesn't have a plug in the bottom, then you can flip the bike upside-down and spray the penetrating oil from the fork towards the stem.
Oh, pedals are frequently removed using a fairly slender 15mm wrench. The right pedal has standard right hand threads (loosen counter-clockwise). The left pedal has reverse left hand threads (loosen clockwise)
Cables sometimes get bent in shipping. A slight problem, but they're often replaced. No need to cut them.
If you remove the rear wheel, the rear derailleur is a bit precarious, and should be protected or partly-removed and protected.
Your bike shop may give you spacers for the fork and rear dropouts, although your spacer may be too long for the rear dropouts and you might want to simply cut a piece of wood as a spacer.
Pipe insulation from your local hardware store, bubble wrap, and that thicher flexible foam packing all work well for protecting the bike.
I'd probably remove the skewers from the wheels and put any small pieces into a zip-lock bag and tape it to something like a wheel that won't get damaged by tape.
Last edited by CliffordK; 08-28-19 at 04:39 PM.
08-28-19, 04:41 PM
#49
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Middle Earth (aka IA)
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Bikes: A bunch of old bikes and a few new ones
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In addition to the advice in post 49, there are youtube videos on how to properly pack a bike.
You might get a decent price listing it on CL and hoping that someone within driving distance will buy it. If you join bike forums, you can list the bike here in the C&V for sale forum (this was suggested in a few earlier threads). My guess is that will maximize the odds of you selling it.
You might get a decent price listing it on CL and hoping that someone within driving distance will buy it. If you join bike forums, you can list the bike here in the C&V for sale forum (this was suggested in a few earlier threads). My guess is that will maximize the odds of you selling it.
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08-28-19, 05:08 PM
#50
Member
Thread Starter
Wheels come off easily. Just flip the quick release lever, and perhaps unscrew the nut (hopefully by hand) a couple of turns if needed.
Even if the tires seem bad, many people like to ship wheels with the tires installed as a small element of added protection.
You've already figured out how to get the seat off. You have the nut, right?
The only other thing that is frequently removed would be the handlebar stem. And, many people here like to know that it isn't stuck. Unscrew the bolt on top of the stem a couple of turns (3/16 inch or so). Give the bolt a good whack with a hammer (with wood block?). Squeeze the front wheel between your knees (ok, do this before removing the wheel), and see if the handlebars twist. A little penetrating oil doesn't hurt. If the fork doesn't have a plug in the bottom, then you can flip the bike upside-down and spray the penetrating oil from the fork towards the stem.
Oh, pedals are frequently removed using a fairly slender 15mm wrench. The right pedal has standard right hand threads (loosen counter-clockwise). The left pedal has reverse left hand threads (loosen clockwise)
Cables sometimes get bent in shipping. A slight problem, but they're often replaced. No need to cut them.
If you remove the rear wheel, the rear derailleur is a bit precarious, and should be protected or partly-removed and protected.
Your bike shop may give you spacers for the fork and rear dropouts, although your spacer may be too long for the rear dropouts and you might want to simply cut a piece of wood as a spacer.
Pipe insulation from your local hardware store, bubble wrap, and that thicher flexible foam packing all work well for protecting the bike.
I'd probably remove the skewers from the wheels and put any small pieces into a zip-lock bag and tape it to something like a wheel that won't get damaged by tape.
Even if the tires seem bad, many people like to ship wheels with the tires installed as a small element of added protection.
You've already figured out how to get the seat off. You have the nut, right?
The only other thing that is frequently removed would be the handlebar stem. And, many people here like to know that it isn't stuck. Unscrew the bolt on top of the stem a couple of turns (3/16 inch or so). Give the bolt a good whack with a hammer (with wood block?). Squeeze the front wheel between your knees (ok, do this before removing the wheel), and see if the handlebars twist. A little penetrating oil doesn't hurt. If the fork doesn't have a plug in the bottom, then you can flip the bike upside-down and spray the penetrating oil from the fork towards the stem.
Oh, pedals are frequently removed using a fairly slender 15mm wrench. The right pedal has standard right hand threads (loosen counter-clockwise). The left pedal has reverse left hand threads (loosen clockwise)
Cables sometimes get bent in shipping. A slight problem, but they're often replaced. No need to cut them.
If you remove the rear wheel, the rear derailleur is a bit precarious, and should be protected or partly-removed and protected.
Your bike shop may give you spacers for the fork and rear dropouts, although your spacer may be too long for the rear dropouts and you might want to simply cut a piece of wood as a spacer.
Pipe insulation from your local hardware store, bubble wrap, and that thicher flexible foam packing all work well for protecting the bike.
I'd probably remove the skewers from the wheels and put any small pieces into a zip-lock bag and tape it to something like a wheel that won't get damaged by tape.
