How do hookless tires stay on?
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How do hookless tires stay on?
I was looking at a new pair of wheels and noticed they were hookless, which means the rim profile is straight. After some googling I still can't quite understand how the tire actually stays on, so I thought I'd ask here.
So how do they work? Are they relying on the pressure at one side from allowing the other side to be pulled off? Does that mean there's a risk that with a sudden depressurisation there's a risk the tire will dismount slightly easier than clinchers/hooks?
So how do they work? Are they relying on the pressure at one side from allowing the other side to be pulled off? Does that mean there's a risk that with a sudden depressurisation there's a risk the tire will dismount slightly easier than clinchers/hooks?
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I'm curious about this as well. I have only heard of these tires in passing. Absolutely zero personal experience. I seem to recall hearing something about gluing the tires on? I'm sure someone more knowledgeable will chime in.
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I was looking at a new pair of wheels and noticed they were hookless, which means the rim profile is straight. After some googling I still can't quite understand how the tire actually stays on, so I thought I'd ask here.
So how do they work? Are they relying on the pressure at one side from allowing the other side to be pulled off? Does that mean there's a risk that with a sudden depressurisation there's a risk the tire will dismount slightly easier than clinchers/hooks?
So how do they work? Are they relying on the pressure at one side from allowing the other side to be pulled off? Does that mean there's a risk that with a sudden depressurisation there's a risk the tire will dismount slightly easier than clinchers/hooks?
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I have been riding hookless rims since April. Tubeless setup. Work fine so far.
Not sure it is the pressure that keeps them on, as in fact there is a relatively low max pressure allowed (73 psi I believe).
Not sure it is the pressure that keeps them on, as in fact there is a relatively low max pressure allowed (73 psi I believe).
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Hookless tires and rims are not anything new. I was riding hookless on my Schwinn bikes in the 70's. They did disappear into obscurity for a time. Some tubeless mfr's seem to see them as a solution to making a better seal between the rim and tire.... IIRC and AFAIK.
Just like tires for crochet rims, the BSD of the tire is smaller than the rims overall diameter. Air pressure and the specific construction of the tire bead made them work. Usually they were wire bead tires in the old days, again IIRC. It was a hookless tire and rim that it took me over 150 psi to blow the tire off the rim. That was intentional just to see what it took and very much over the recommended max PSI.
Not all tires will work on hookless, but some will do both crochet and hookless rims.
Just like tires for crochet rims, the BSD of the tire is smaller than the rims overall diameter. Air pressure and the specific construction of the tire bead made them work. Usually they were wire bead tires in the old days, again IIRC. It was a hookless tire and rim that it took me over 150 psi to blow the tire off the rim. That was intentional just to see what it took and very much over the recommended max PSI.
Not all tires will work on hookless, but some will do both crochet and hookless rims.
Last edited by Iride01; 08-17-22 at 12:35 PM.
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I've had a tire come off at 20 mph. Hooked rim, old tire and a blowout. A crash I never want to do again. I haven't been able to enjoy fast descents the past 10 years because I cannot remove that from memory. (Broken ribs, collarbone, dented helmet and an acre of road rash.)
Hookless rims? For me, no thanks! In fact, I'm swapping to the tires and system we raced in the dark ages because I know from experience that a high speed blowout does nothing more than cause on instantaneous rise in heart rate! Sewups aka tubulars. Glued on well, you just brake to a stop from any speed. Change the tire and go on. So uneventful I cannot remember where I did this or which wheel it was (or one time or two). I know I've blown sewups at 45+. Underfunded bike racer. Food and tires were my biggest expenses.
All my bikes except the winter/rain/city bikes are going tubular. I'll keep one set of clincher wheels for high flat risk rides. ($$s) It's a tough trade-off. I now have to put up with the magic carpets; the sublime ride I haven't see since I rode quality tubulars an eon ago.
Hookless rims? For me, no thanks! In fact, I'm swapping to the tires and system we raced in the dark ages because I know from experience that a high speed blowout does nothing more than cause on instantaneous rise in heart rate! Sewups aka tubulars. Glued on well, you just brake to a stop from any speed. Change the tire and go on. So uneventful I cannot remember where I did this or which wheel it was (or one time or two). I know I've blown sewups at 45+. Underfunded bike racer. Food and tires were my biggest expenses.
All my bikes except the winter/rain/city bikes are going tubular. I'll keep one set of clincher wheels for high flat risk rides. ($$s) It's a tough trade-off. I now have to put up with the magic carpets; the sublime ride I haven't see since I rode quality tubulars an eon ago.
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I have hookless rims (Zipp 303S). I don't know how the physics/mechanics work, but in practice they function just like any other bike wheel I've owned. Tires are no more or less difficult to install than a regular rim.
Tires have to be "tubeless ready" and "hookless compatible", though you can still run these tires with tubes if you want. Most tubeless ready tires out there are hookless compatible, but there are a few exceptions. As mentioned above, the max pressure is 72psi. I run tires ranging from 28mm-35mm on them, and pressures ranging from 30-60psi. If you aren't into tubeless and/or want to run high pressure, a hooked rim is probably a better choice.
Tires have to be "tubeless ready" and "hookless compatible", though you can still run these tires with tubes if you want. Most tubeless ready tires out there are hookless compatible, but there are a few exceptions. As mentioned above, the max pressure is 72psi. I run tires ranging from 28mm-35mm on them, and pressures ranging from 30-60psi. If you aren't into tubeless and/or want to run high pressure, a hooked rim is probably a better choice.
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You do know that EVERY car and motorcycle rim is hookless, right? The diameter and shape of the 'shelf' next to the sidewall is what keeps the tire on. Tires are more likely to stay on if you flat with hookless rims than with hooked ones. That's why you hear that 'pop' when you inflate them, it's bead seating.
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I've had a tire come off at 20 mph. Hooked rim, old tire and a blowout. A crash I never want to do again. I haven't been able to enjoy fast descents the past 10 years because I cannot remove that from memory. (Broken ribs, collarbone, dented helmet and an acre of road rash.)
Hookless rims? For me, no thanks! In fact, I'm swapping to the tires and system we raced in the dark ages because I know from experience that a high speed blowout does nothing more than cause on instantaneous rise in heart rate! Sewups aka tubulars. Glued on well, you just brake to a stop from any speed. Change the tire and go on. So uneventful I cannot remember where I did this or which wheel it was (or one time or two). I know I've blown sewups at 45+. Underfunded bike racer. Food and tires were my biggest expenses.
All my bikes except the winter/rain/city bikes are going tubular. I'll keep one set of clincher wheels for high flat risk rides. ($$s) It's a tough trade-off. I now have to put up with the magic carpets; the sublime ride I haven't see since I rode quality tubulars an eon ago.
Hookless rims? For me, no thanks! In fact, I'm swapping to the tires and system we raced in the dark ages because I know from experience that a high speed blowout does nothing more than cause on instantaneous rise in heart rate! Sewups aka tubulars. Glued on well, you just brake to a stop from any speed. Change the tire and go on. So uneventful I cannot remember where I did this or which wheel it was (or one time or two). I know I've blown sewups at 45+. Underfunded bike racer. Food and tires were my biggest expenses.
All my bikes except the winter/rain/city bikes are going tubular. I'll keep one set of clincher wheels for high flat risk rides. ($$s) It's a tough trade-off. I now have to put up with the magic carpets; the sublime ride I haven't see since I rode quality tubulars an eon ago.
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You do know that EVERY car and motorcycle rim is hookless, right? The diameter and shape of the 'shelf' next to the sidewall is what keeps the tire on. Tires are more likely to stay on if you flat with hookless rims than with hooked ones. That's why you hear that 'pop' when you inflate them, it's bead seating.
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You can't just 'pull them off by hand' if they're glued well. You need to get a screwdriver or tire lever under that base tape and work it back and forth til you get 1/4 to 1/3 of the tire off the rim then you can remove it by hand. The bond and pressure, in conjunction w/ the shape of the rim keep them on.
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If you go to the tubular sticky thread, you will see tricks that tubular rider use so they can get those tires off. Different glues have different levels of "stick'. I had training/club race wheels that were not all that hard to change roadside and race wheels glued on solidly. And coming in the mail are steel tire levers so I can put one each in saddle bags to start stubborn tires. (Didn't need them years ago with my training tires but then, years ago I had much stronger, injury free hands.)
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You do know that EVERY car and motorcycle rim is hookless, right? The diameter and shape of the 'shelf' next to the sidewall is what keeps the tire on. Tires are more likely to stay on if you flat with hookless rims than with hooked ones. That's why you hear that 'pop' when you inflate them, it's bead seating.
But really not equivalent to road bikes...
have you ever handled a tubeless motorcycle tire (same as auto/truck), The bead is incredibly stiff, and will not stretch. Getting the bead over the wheel rim wall is quite difficult. I've done quite a few dozen of these, by hand. It takes some incredible effort AND exactly the proper technique and some monster levers.
Tubeless Bike tires are a cakewalk I can get a 6 yr old to do properly... But at the pressures of mtb and wide width tires, I'm not afraid of them coming off on a fast downhill sharp curve.
I don;t have tubeless 'road' experience, so I wouldn;t know what the forces are like for narrower tires and total flat...
I tried some 'grip tape' for putting on a spare - on a training ride -, back when tape came out - I can warrant that move is a total FAIL!
Every race - BITD - there was 'bike inspection' - and the primary inspection was for 'tire adhesion ... there was the guy who could tear telephone directories in half (anyone not sure what that is ???) and they would try to roll the tire off the rim... with their thumbs... the really serious testers would test using their palms ! Once you 'fail' - don;t both bringing that wheel back for the re-test, it would certainly fail again.
and tubular cement and putting on a tire can be a very messy thing - an initiation which most all tubular neophytes will experience.
If one had any kind of 'support'/team, there were always spare wheels, with the proper freewheel range... Team mechanics always checked wheels and replaced worn tires right after a 'stage', to have it really for use the next morning...
sewups are a PITA, unless you are on a team...
same as above... same system, different in use...
Thing I wonder about - if the tire bead is compromised (casing cut near the bead) or somehow flawed, how does the affect a road bike hookless setup/use?
Booting the tire might be possible, sometimes, and then running a tube might get you home, but not if the tire needs a minimum pressure to hold the bead in place...
Ride On
Yuri
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...
good question. the real solution for tubular flats on the road, while riding is Change The Wheel... If you get a flat on a tubular, its a total PITA... When/if you get the flat tire off, putting on a 'spare' (complete tire) does nothing to guarantee that the tire won;t 'roll' with the slightest side force... The existing glue on rim is usually not tacky enough to assure any grip. If you're in the middle of any ride, you need to baby the ride back, or until you can get a proper wheel change... Putting on fresh glue won;t allow proper grip - it usually takes overnight for the glue/tire adhesion to set and be useable.
I tried some 'grip tape' for putting on a spare - on a training ride -, back when tape came out - I can warrant that move is a total FAIL!
Every race - BITD - there was 'bike inspection' - and the primary inspection was for 'tire adhesion ... there was the guy who could tear telephone directories in half (anyone not sure what that is ???) and they would try to roll the tire off the rim... with their thumbs... the really serious testers would test using their palms ! Once you 'fail' - don;t both bringing that wheel back for the re-test, it would certainly fail again.
and tubular cement and putting on a tire can be a very messy thing - an initiation which most all tubular neophytes will experience.
If one had any kind of 'support'/team, there were always spare wheels, with the proper freewheel range... Team mechanics always checked wheels and replaced worn tires right after a 'stage', to have it really for use the next morning...
sewups are a PITA, unless you are on a team...
...
good question. the real solution for tubular flats on the road, while riding is Change The Wheel... If you get a flat on a tubular, its a total PITA... When/if you get the flat tire off, putting on a 'spare' (complete tire) does nothing to guarantee that the tire won;t 'roll' with the slightest side force... The existing glue on rim is usually not tacky enough to assure any grip. If you're in the middle of any ride, you need to baby the ride back, or until you can get a proper wheel change... Putting on fresh glue won;t allow proper grip - it usually takes overnight for the glue/tire adhesion to set and be useable.
I tried some 'grip tape' for putting on a spare - on a training ride -, back when tape came out - I can warrant that move is a total FAIL!
Every race - BITD - there was 'bike inspection' - and the primary inspection was for 'tire adhesion ... there was the guy who could tear telephone directories in half (anyone not sure what that is ???) and they would try to roll the tire off the rim... with their thumbs... the really serious testers would test using their palms ! Once you 'fail' - don;t both bringing that wheel back for the re-test, it would certainly fail again.
and tubular cement and putting on a tire can be a very messy thing - an initiation which most all tubular neophytes will experience.
If one had any kind of 'support'/team, there were always spare wheels, with the proper freewheel range... Team mechanics always checked wheels and replaced worn tires right after a 'stage', to have it really for use the next morning...
sewups are a PITA, unless you are on a team...
...
And that system had a great safety factor. For years, bikes were my only wheels. I found myself i less than desirable neighborhoods. sometimes because they were by far the fasted way to get to where I wanted to go. Loved knowing that if I flatted, I'd be on my way in not much over 5 minutes. I didn't have to take the time to get anything "right". I could ride off with the tire on crooked, lopsided and it still worked. I could out-ride thieves on foot on this poorly mounted tire. That kind of sloppiness simply doesn't work with innertubes. (And those tires were far easier to change in rain, snow, poor light, inebriated, tired ... No skill or attention required at all. In my twenties, I did all of those.)
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yeah, pretty much same here, I would use Tubasti for my training wheels, especially the wheels I'd use for the 'rougher' rides... Clement was always used for team race wheels (and Vittoria in a pinch), once on, you often had to use pliers to get the tire started for getting off. Avoided Wolber cement - that stuff was brittle and also not the best grip.
Could even ride Tubasti well into winter - but the down side of Tubasti was, it would pick up road crud and within a day of wet, the tires all looked like their mascara ran... LOL!
Crooked Tires... some were so bad, when you rode behind someone who had some, it looked like the wheel had a huge wobble... LOL!
My training tires usually were Barums, and they generally had that 'wandering tread' look... LOL! But they wore like iron and were amazing in the wet.
Fun remembering back, but I don;t think I'd want to go back to sewups... Yeah, I rode sewups from 68 until '89 - 90' ish? happy to leave that in memories...
Ride On
Yuri
Could even ride Tubasti well into winter - but the down side of Tubasti was, it would pick up road crud and within a day of wet, the tires all looked like their mascara ran... LOL!
Crooked Tires... some were so bad, when you rode behind someone who had some, it looked like the wheel had a huge wobble... LOL!
My training tires usually were Barums, and they generally had that 'wandering tread' look... LOL! But they wore like iron and were amazing in the wet.
Fun remembering back, but I don;t think I'd want to go back to sewups... Yeah, I rode sewups from 68 until '89 - 90' ish? happy to leave that in memories...
Ride On
Yuri
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And probably someone else might know better, but the crochet type rims were even more necessary when we started running 18mm wide tires on our bikes. Otherwise the likely hood of a smooth bead tire coming off is low. And back in my pre-teen and teen years, I didn't pay much attention to the max inflation pressure on the tire. I just pumped them up rock hard. Because at that time you were "badder" than all the rest.
Stories of the coming off are probably a tire that wasn't intended for hookless rims or otherwise likely as often as any have a crochet tire come off. When it's a crochet tire we look for a reason. When it's a hookless tire, we just blame hookless or PSI and don't look for the reason.
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The biggest issue with vintage hookless clincher rims is the inability to run narrow high pressure tires, though I'm sure some have been successful.
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not every motorcycle (and there are a few antique cars which use tubed tires
But really not equivalent to road bikes...
have you ever handled a tubeless motorcycle tire (same as auto/truck), The bead is incredibly stiff, and will not stretch. Getting the bead over the wheel rim wall is quite difficult. I've done quite a few dozen of these, by hand. It takes some incredible effort AND exactly the proper technique and some monster levers.
Tubeless Bike tires are a cakewalk I can get a 6 yr old to do properly... But at the pressures of mtb and wide width tires, I'm not afraid of them coming off on a fast downhill sharp curve.
I don;t have tubeless 'road' experience, so I wouldn;t know what the forces are like for narrower tires and total flat...
good question. the real solution for tubular flats on the road, while riding is Change The Wheel... If you get a flat on a tubular, its a total PITA... When/if you get the flat tire off, putting on a 'spare' (complete tire) does nothing to guarantee that the tire won;t 'roll' with the slightest side force... The existing glue on rim is usually not tacky enough to assure any grip. If you're in the middle of any ride, you need to baby the ride back, or until you can get a proper wheel change... Putting on fresh glue won;t allow proper grip - it usually takes overnight for the glue/tire adhesion to set and be useable.
I tried some 'grip tape' for putting on a spare - on a training ride -, back when tape came out - I can warrant that move is a total FAIL!
Every race - BITD - there was 'bike inspection' - and the primary inspection was for 'tire adhesion ... there was the guy who could tear telephone directories in half (anyone not sure what that is ???) and they would try to roll the tire off the rim... with their thumbs... the really serious testers would test using their palms ! Once you 'fail' - don;t both bringing that wheel back for the re-test, it would certainly fail again.
and tubular cement and putting on a tire can be a very messy thing - an initiation which most all tubular neophytes will experience.
If one had any kind of 'support'/team, there were always spare wheels, with the proper freewheel range... Team mechanics always checked wheels and replaced worn tires right after a 'stage', to have it really for use the next morning...
sewups are a PITA, unless you are on a team...
same as above... same system, different in use...
Thing I wonder about - if the tire bead is compromised (casing cut near the bead) or somehow flawed, how does the affect a road bike hookless setup/use?
Booting the tire might be possible, sometimes, and then running a tube might get you home, but not if the tire needs a minimum pressure to hold the bead in place...
Ride On
Yuri
But really not equivalent to road bikes...
have you ever handled a tubeless motorcycle tire (same as auto/truck), The bead is incredibly stiff, and will not stretch. Getting the bead over the wheel rim wall is quite difficult. I've done quite a few dozen of these, by hand. It takes some incredible effort AND exactly the proper technique and some monster levers.
Tubeless Bike tires are a cakewalk I can get a 6 yr old to do properly... But at the pressures of mtb and wide width tires, I'm not afraid of them coming off on a fast downhill sharp curve.
I don;t have tubeless 'road' experience, so I wouldn;t know what the forces are like for narrower tires and total flat...
good question. the real solution for tubular flats on the road, while riding is Change The Wheel... If you get a flat on a tubular, its a total PITA... When/if you get the flat tire off, putting on a 'spare' (complete tire) does nothing to guarantee that the tire won;t 'roll' with the slightest side force... The existing glue on rim is usually not tacky enough to assure any grip. If you're in the middle of any ride, you need to baby the ride back, or until you can get a proper wheel change... Putting on fresh glue won;t allow proper grip - it usually takes overnight for the glue/tire adhesion to set and be useable.
I tried some 'grip tape' for putting on a spare - on a training ride -, back when tape came out - I can warrant that move is a total FAIL!
Every race - BITD - there was 'bike inspection' - and the primary inspection was for 'tire adhesion ... there was the guy who could tear telephone directories in half (anyone not sure what that is ???) and they would try to roll the tire off the rim... with their thumbs... the really serious testers would test using their palms ! Once you 'fail' - don;t both bringing that wheel back for the re-test, it would certainly fail again.
and tubular cement and putting on a tire can be a very messy thing - an initiation which most all tubular neophytes will experience.
If one had any kind of 'support'/team, there were always spare wheels, with the proper freewheel range... Team mechanics always checked wheels and replaced worn tires right after a 'stage', to have it really for use the next morning...
sewups are a PITA, unless you are on a team...
same as above... same system, different in use...
Thing I wonder about - if the tire bead is compromised (casing cut near the bead) or somehow flawed, how does the affect a road bike hookless setup/use?
Booting the tire might be possible, sometimes, and then running a tube might get you home, but not if the tire needs a minimum pressure to hold the bead in place...
Ride On
Yuri
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I was looking at a new pair of wheels and noticed they were hookless, which means the rim profile is straight. After some googling I still can't quite understand how the tire actually stays on, so I thought I'd ask here.
So how do they work? Are they relying on the pressure at one side from allowing the other side to be pulled off? Does that mean there's a risk that with a sudden depressurisation there's a risk the tire will dismount slightly easier than clinchers/hooks?
So how do they work? Are they relying on the pressure at one side from allowing the other side to be pulled off? Does that mean there's a risk that with a sudden depressurisation there's a risk the tire will dismount slightly easier than clinchers/hooks?
The design is common now and works very well for MTB where tires are run at pretty low pressures.
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How do hookless tires stay on?
Cenzippetal force.
Cenzippetal force.