Chainrings too close?
#1
aka Timi
Thread Starter
Chainrings too close?
Hi, I've just put new chainrings on. The outer and middle rings look too close together. I'm absolutely sure I've put them on correctly, not reversed any of the markings (outer facing out, the other two facing in) or the salients misaligned (all behind the crankarm, there wasn'ta a chain drop pin, but just a hole for it). The inner and middle rings are SLX, the outer LX, although when I bought them they were all packaged as Deore LX. Thanks for any advice. It's all 9 speed. I haven't put the chain and RD on yet as I've got new jockey wheels on order... This shouldn't be weird should it?
Crank: LX FC-M661 triple
Outer: FC-T661
Middle: FC-M660
Inner: FC-M660
Crank: LX FC-M661 triple
Outer: FC-T661
Middle: FC-M660
Inner: FC-M660
#2
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drape the chain over the rings and see how it looks. And/or check the actual distance between rings to see if it's an illusion or not.
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+1. If need be, thin chainring spacers can be installed to make sure everything is separated just right.
#4
aka Timi
Thread Starter
Thanks guys. I took the crank off again as it is really hard to eyeball it on the bike. Impossible to measure accurately as well. I'm pretty sure summat ain't right though. Chainring spacers? Guess my LBS could help with that.
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Other than being obviously too close so the chain simply doesn't clear, the issue relates more to chain rub on the inner face of the larger ring when using a smaller one and the outside of the cassette.
This is a common and critical issue on many 10s and 11s compact systems which cannot be ridden fully crossed without some chainring rub. Even when they don't rub, you can hear the ticks of the pick up pins brushing past. (please don't post "don't ride small/small")
This is a common and critical issue on many 10s and 11s compact systems which cannot be ridden fully crossed without some chainring rub. Even when they don't rub, you can hear the ticks of the pick up pins brushing past. (please don't post "don't ride small/small")
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Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#6
aka Timi
Thread Starter
Thanks again guys. I found the problem: The outer ring was the wrong way round, EVEN though the stamped lettering was facing the way the instructions said (outwards)... By examining the ring it was obvious. It is now correct: the indentations for the bashguard are on the outside, the ugly end of the rivets on the inside, the spacing is perfect, and to top it all off I googled pictures and enlarged them until I could compare all the details.... BUT the stamped lettering is on the inside...
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Are you concerned about looking at the bike or riding it? Andy.
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#8
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You have to be patient with our semi-facitious comments. They're not intended to be snide, more like a gentle poke in the ribs.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
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“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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I don't think so. If the bike works as intended but the writing is on the other side of the part then what you prefer what is the problem? Not all rings have their stampings on the outer side. Or even on the same side as the other rings. By posting your question in an open forum you are asking for other's opinions. I gave you mine. Andy.
#11
aka Timi
Thread Starter
Chainrings too close?
You have missed the point completely.
I installed the chainring exactly following the printed instructions... It did not work, the outer ring was too close to the middle ring.
Everything I have read and googled says."outer ring, lettering outwards... other two rings, lettering inward..."
It's got nothing to do with esthetics -one can hardly see the stamped lettering - but I posted my findings in case anyone else had the same problem, or found it interesting.
Your snarky comment was uncalled for, but I put it down to you having neither read or understood the thread.
I installed the chainring exactly following the printed instructions... It did not work, the outer ring was too close to the middle ring.
Everything I have read and googled says."outer ring, lettering outwards... other two rings, lettering inward..."
It's got nothing to do with esthetics -one can hardly see the stamped lettering - but I posted my findings in case anyone else had the same problem, or found it interesting.
Your snarky comment was uncalled for, but I put it down to you having neither read or understood the thread.
#12
aka Timi
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Yes, thanks FB. I've been here (BF) long enough to appreciate friendly jibing delivered with wit and intelligence...
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Sometimes it isn't quite as obvious which side of a chainring goes out, but the ugly end of the pins and countersinking are good clues. I've almost installed rings backward in the past because more of the information was stamped on the inner side, which didn't make sense to me at first...
#14
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"Your snarky comment was uncalled for, but I put it down to you having neither read or understood the thread." Imi
So I went back and reread the OP. I read that you were not sure which way the rings were to be mounted, that the instructions might be wrong. But you were not sure and were seeking help. Your second post seemed to confirm your confusion but you were on the path to figuring it out by questioning another reply's suggestion. Your third post shows that you were able to get past the reliance on instructions. Not surprising with the wrong instructions with the mix of rings grades. Again you were able to experiment to reach the goal. Good job.
My possible error was with my first post was not continuing to mention that one has to rely on the fix that works, not the set up that one has seen before. My bad on this point.
But this is the interweb method of give and take. I try to minimize my posts. Both in word count as well as in posting numbers on any one thread. The interaction when in person is so much better a communication then those done with words in magnetic ink. I do try to read the OPs and see the real issues, not always the written questions. I try to cut to the chase with my answers.
I'm glad that you were able to figure things out. I'm not sorry that I put out there that looks are not always the best guide. My self imposed guide of usually offering three replies to a thread has been met. Andy.
So I went back and reread the OP. I read that you were not sure which way the rings were to be mounted, that the instructions might be wrong. But you were not sure and were seeking help. Your second post seemed to confirm your confusion but you were on the path to figuring it out by questioning another reply's suggestion. Your third post shows that you were able to get past the reliance on instructions. Not surprising with the wrong instructions with the mix of rings grades. Again you were able to experiment to reach the goal. Good job.
My possible error was with my first post was not continuing to mention that one has to rely on the fix that works, not the set up that one has seen before. My bad on this point.
But this is the interweb method of give and take. I try to minimize my posts. Both in word count as well as in posting numbers on any one thread. The interaction when in person is so much better a communication then those done with words in magnetic ink. I do try to read the OPs and see the real issues, not always the written questions. I try to cut to the chase with my answers.
I'm glad that you were able to figure things out. I'm not sorry that I put out there that looks are not always the best guide. My self imposed guide of usually offering three replies to a thread has been met. Andy.
#15
aka Timi
Thread Starter
Andrew: No worries. Thanks for your last post. /Timi
#17
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Part of the adaptation to thinner chains of the post 8 speed(9,10,11) cranks , is making them closer together.
wider spacing risks dropping the thinner chain in-between chainrings..
perhaps the new chainrings were machined to be '11 speed' compatible?
shim spacers around the bolts, between the crank arms and the chain ring may help.
wider spacing risks dropping the thinner chain in-between chainrings..
perhaps the new chainrings were machined to be '11 speed' compatible?
shim spacers around the bolts, between the crank arms and the chain ring may help.
Last edited by fietsbob; 07-23-15 at 09:29 AM.
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I was thinking the same thing. I thought you always faced all stamping on chain rings so that they face out toward drive side pedal...even though that would make the stamping on inner chainrings harder to see.
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That's the danger of adhering to rules. The rings have to be mounted according to tooth profile, offset,pickup pins, counterbored holes, or other functional criteria. Going by some rule about where logos should be isn't reliable, because even if there's a "rule" of some kind, there will always be exceptions.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
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WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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Counterbored holes is usually the best clue; no reason to have them on the side where the bolt head doesn't go...
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I know this is a 7 year old thread, but this is the first result when searching 'chain rings too close' on Google. I personally struggled with this for close to 6 hours, taking the crank off and on and testing different orientations until I figured out what was wrong. I found that I was mounting the outermost chainring on the inner side (towards the bicycle) of the crank, when it should have been on the pedal side (away from the bicycle). I was confused because of videos I watched (other types of crank/chainrings) putting it on the other side.
So, to whoever ends up in this thread - if your middle chainring is too close to the outer, consider that your outer chainring might be mounted on the wrong side of the crank. Ultimately, the recommended orientation most people mention was correct, it was just that the outer chainring needed to have the crank itself as the spacer between it and the middle chainring.
Specifically, mine is a Shimano Deore Crankset.
So, to whoever ends up in this thread - if your middle chainring is too close to the outer, consider that your outer chainring might be mounted on the wrong side of the crank. Ultimately, the recommended orientation most people mention was correct, it was just that the outer chainring needed to have the crank itself as the spacer between it and the middle chainring.
Specifically, mine is a Shimano Deore Crankset.
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Now to your thinking that as a commuter bike it's looks shouldn't matter- you make a false assumption of me. Here's a shot of my current commuter, clean and not the usual color combo. As a lifer in the LBS service department I very much care that others do take pride in their bikes. Andy
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In (feeble) defense of manufacturers/distributers ... the instructions that came with the crankset might well have been written and published long before the chainrings were made and packaged. (This includes what you might see online.) And the parts might well have been made/stamped/labeled by folk not speaking or reading English and not bike riders. They may well have never seen the printed instructions.
If these chainrings were Shimano, Campagnolo or SRAM, I can see a case for complaint. But if these were picked because they apparently filled the bill but were at lesser cost, I'd hope they were machined well and forgive the lettering mistake.
If these chainrings were Shimano, Campagnolo or SRAM, I can see a case for complaint. But if these were picked because they apparently filled the bill but were at lesser cost, I'd hope they were machined well and forgive the lettering mistake.