Cyclocross Quill Stem for Centerpull Brakes
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Cyclocross Quill Stem for Centerpull Brakes
I'm building up the Land Shark cyclocross frame and am using a quill stem that was drilled to serve as the anchor point for a centerpull front brake.
Any advice on proper setup would be most appreciated, as would pics of examples.
Thanks
RFC
Any advice on proper setup would be most appreciated, as would pics of examples.
Thanks
RFC
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Hello are these pics any help?
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
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Thank you. Yours is a little different. This one is drilled through the top of the stem to anchor the housing with the cable running out the bottom of the stem to the centerpull.
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My mountain bike has a stem like that, I will get some closeup photos this evening.
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It's important to cut the housing to the right length so it doesn't kink where it enters the stem.
If you're using aero levers the routing has to be a little weird to make this happen, I usually use one of the more standard housing stops with modern brake levers, rather than the stem.
If you're using aero levers the routing has to be a little weird to make this happen, I usually use one of the more standard housing stops with modern brake levers, rather than the stem.
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You may or may not have this issue depending on your setup, but I thought is was worth pointing out.
I have a custom frame and had problems with break shudder with my canti-brakes. I found it was best to get the cable stop closest to the yoke as possible to reduce the shudder. The original cable stop(pictured below) was replaced with one that drops about a 1 1/2". This fix my fork shudder problem.
I have a custom frame and had problems with break shudder with my canti-brakes. I found it was best to get the cable stop closest to the yoke as possible to reduce the shudder. The original cable stop(pictured below) was replaced with one that drops about a 1 1/2". This fix my fork shudder problem.
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here