jdawginsc 

Adding a few more possibilities...

Nishiki Tri (I have one, I love it).
Fuji Newest

machinist42

Vintage mens and women bikes
$100

Listed 5 hours ago in Wilmington, NC

Details

• Condition
  Used - like new
• Type
  Hybrid Bike

"Assortment of racing and cruisers and city cruiser"



Link.



It is nothing special I don't think, but mostly how I find my bikes. It does not have Safety Levers, or an interesting crown. It does appear to have matching tubing stickers on the downtube and forks. It looks like it has a decent, Suntour front hub. It is probably 54cm. It has that special let's call it "Beige" or "Vile Bile" colour which could help you buy it for like $25 and it might make a decent "Clunker Challenger!" (May be a "Puch," but I only make that assertion for the Pun Value, which may be nil?) May have clearance for wider tires? Looks like a forged front dropout. Stainless spokes? From what I tell, a nice curve to the forks. Worth a look?

(Last year I found one of my Clunker Candidates this way, albeit through an OfferUp listing. It's a 23" 1973 Acer-Mex Carabela Profesional, admittedly in rough shape, but the RD is an '84 Titanium Super Record which is basically unused, and most of the rest is first generation Black Dura-Ace. Go figure? $40.)

philbob57

I know a lot of people say they love the ride of hi-ten steel bikes like Peugeot UO-8s, Raleigh Grand Prixs, Gitane I-forget-the-model-names, Motobecane Mirages/Super Mirages, etc., but with $1,000 to spend, I strongly recommend sticking to double-butted frames - Reynolds 531, Columbus SL/SP, Ishiwata 019, 022, or 024, Tange Champion #1 or #2, some of the Vitus tubing. The steel is stronger than hi-ten tubing, so you get a better strength-weight and a better ride, IMO.

In addition, I urge you to do test rides of different candidate bikes to find out what you like. I believe geometries changed during the late 1970's, from each vendor taking their unique approach to square frames with tight rear triangles from the '80s to now. You might like one approach much more than you like another.

Fit is the most important criterion for choosing a bike - you'll ride it if it feels good; you won't if it doesn't. There are limits to the adjustments you can make in how a frame fits. The frame's tubing can't be changed, so I view that as the 2nd most important element of a bike purchase decision.

Actually, wheels/tires are probably 2nd most important element of liking a bike. Well-built, light wheels and good tires can make a lot of dull bikes seem to take wings; I would not be surprised if a UO-8 with sewups didn't fly. But wheels and tires are a lot easier to change than fit or tubing. (If I can build wheels, anyone can.)

DBDad

Wow, so much great info! Looks like I definitely came to the right place. Tried to respond earlier, but the forum made me wait 24hrs.

I’ve taken screen shots of the posts with brands you all recommended. Will do some research on them. It’s good to know that I won’t necessarily have to max out my budget to get a good rider. The bikes posted are really sharp for the price and seem like killer deals. I’ll keep my eyes open for something like that.


RustyJames - That’s a sweet Allez!

BFisher - I’d love to come across a deal like that. Will check out the Raleigh Racing USA models. I think my bike from the 80s was a “Raleigh Racing.”

jdawginsc - Thanks for the list. Exactly what I was looking for. Will research those.

Machinist42 - Good to meet a local rider! I’d definitely be interested in that Miele. Quick research says those are good bikes. Agree that Wilmington isn’t the best for biking. I stick to the Cross City Trail mostly. The traffic here is complete madness. The trail borders roads that you could swear are drag strips. I need to explore and find some good routes.

3alarmet - That’s great to hear. I’m glad there are many of these old bikes to be had!

genejockey - Nice bikes!

echoplex - Great tips. I’m keeping an eye on those sites. The hunt is fun!

philbob57 - Thanks for the steel tips. Through my research I’ve noticed the names you mentioned - especially Reynolds 531 and Columbus. I’ll keep an eye out for the other steel you mentioned.

Bamboobike4 - I’m definitely interested. Note for the PM, I need 10 posts to respond. Interested to see what you have available.

I could use some info on what to look for in components. Campagnolo, Dura Ace, those are the ones to look for, right? What about SunTour? Any info on wheel brands would be great too.

Also note that I don’t need to fit wide tires on the bike I’m searching for. Cross-Check will serve that purpose. I have 43mm Panaracer Gravel King SKs on it right now. Looking for strictly a road bike. Skinny tires are fine.

Side note - I remember seeing all those classic 10 speeds as a kid and always wanted one. They seemed too fancy and for grown ups at the time. Now that I’m 42, it’s time to get one!

Also, as fun as a project bike/fixer upper sounds, I just don’t have the skills, knowledge, tools at this point. Maybe down the road. I’d love to learn though. So I’m willing to spend the extra money to get something solid and in good condition.

*Double side note - I have a basically new 54cm Surly Cross-Check frameset that I’m happy to add to a trade/sell for a vintage bike if anyone’s interested. Bought as a complete and it was too long for me. I bought a 52 frame and had everything swapped over to it. (Surly’s 52 measures at a typical 54). I’ll see about posting it in the “sell” section . Happy to post pics. Send me a message if interested.



Great advice. Thanks everyone.

RustyJames 

Suntour in the mid 70s thru the mid 80s was at the top of their game and Shimano and Campagnolo were scrambling to catch up, IMHO. There are fans of other European and English bikes/components and I’m sure they will chime-in soon.
I’m not super particular about wheels but again, opinions will flow in. I think it’s generally agreed that 700c wheels are preferred over 27”. You also have the option of looking into sew-ups.
FWIW - 54cm frames fit me and many Italian bikes from the 1960s are this size. No idea why…
Lastly (from me, for now) pre-1970 bikes are a bit of a minefield. Frame and component quality varies WIDELY. Coming from a modern bike, bikes from that era will seem pre-historic. I like ‘em but I’m not right in the head. 😬

smd4

Your best value in components are probably from mid-1980s Shimano. Dura Ace are of course the best, but 600/600EX or even 105 are nice too, especially if you want indexed shifting. Some Sun Tour parts except for shifting are OK ( hubs, cranks, brakes). As a shop mechanic in 1985, we never thought of Sun Tour as anything more than no 3 behind Shimano and Campagnolo. Campagnolo parts are nice but expensive. Stay away from any 27” wheels; stick with 700c with Presta valves. You’ll have way more tire choices. I like my tires to be as thin as possible (23 mm currently) but that’s just me and one or two others here. Every one else runs tires as wide as they can fit.

RustyJames 

I used to think of Suntour as 3rd tier until I started using it. Fit and finish on Superbe is flawless and the indexed Sprint shifters on my Circuit are the best downtube shifters I’ve ever used.

I heartily agree the best value are Shimano 600 components. I’ve seen entire group sets for a couple hundred $$ and they work very well.

jdawginsc 

Agree with Rusty about Superbe and Sprint. Great stuff, and the light and cheap VGx was the awesomest friction guy around. ARX were bomb proof and never miss a shift. Never ridden anything with Cyclone oddly.

Honestly, if I want friction, I lean toward SunTour...indexed, Shimano...and brifters, Campy.

However, for the original poster’s request, any of the following would be an excellent vintage or or transitional
experience in my opinion...

Shimano DA 7200, 7400
Shimano 600 EX,600tricolor
SunTour Superbe/Sprint
Campy NR, SR, 8 speed Chorus/Athena/Record
Sachs New Success, maybe? The upper end one.
Galli stuff is decent

Mavic 501/550 hubs

Upper end Simplex, Huret stuff I cannot comment on...

smd4

The Bicycle Rider magazine review from April 1987 noted a couple advantages of the Sun Tour AccuShift system over Shimano, but used words like “annoying,” “alarming,” and “...readjustment. Especially readjustment” to describe its shifting precision. Shimano’s two year head start was just too much to overcome back then. I’m glad yours works well for you.

branko_76 

For $1,000 you can get a very nice vintage steel road bike. The market is not as insane as it was at the start of the pandemic.

If you work on bikes, there are lots of ways to go. If you don't work on bikes (meaning overhauling them), then try to find a "garage queen" something all original that has seen little use. If parts have been swapped, you can never be sure that it hasn't been crashed or the person doing the swap knew what they were doing.

beng1

I can't think of any purpose for a quick-steering road bike, is there some sport I don't know about where people are slaloming these things around closely set pylons??? The slower steering a bike is within reason, the more useful and safe it is. If I am going fast in an aero, tucked in position I would rather be concentrating on keeping that position and pedaling than a quick-steering bike that is hard to keep straight.

One thing that will have you shelling out a lot of cash is being impatient or particular. There are thousands of old lugged-steel road bikes out there that can be had for tens of dollars such as Schwinn World and World-Sports and other similar lower-end cycles you can ride with no problem until something special shows up. My initial cost for my three steel road bikes is $53 total, a friend wants to give me another lugged bike in my size for free that is in excellent condition, and I have seem many, many more at estate sales, salvation-army etc. for a few dollars.

Once I placed 40th in a time-trial with over 400 entrants riding a Motobecane Jubile Sport, which was not much when it was new, was cheap when I bought it used, and was made as a sport-tourer. I know that as long as the bike fits the rider and is in good shape, it makes little difference how expensive the bike was when new, an experienced rider in good shape on a cheap bike will kick the crap out of most other riders on expensive bikes who have concentrated more on what they are riding instead of themselves.

Good luck......

smd4

Yeah, sort of analogous to those weirdos who want to buy Ferraris or Lambos, for some reason...

repechage

Cast a wider net.
Buy a correct size, decent condition Colnago super, save countless bikes that you would buy prior to that.
service it an be satisfied.

bamboobike4

I'm waiting on him to be able to PM.
One of my offers was a 1985 Super, 2x10 Centaur (compact) and I'd be open to the Surly in a partial trade.
I think he'd be well served, especially in his area, and I'd be able to break bones as a gravel newbie.

bamboobike4

The 1989 Suntour GPX was a very solid indexing group.
Solid in build, solid in shifting. Hidden spring calipers.
Why they decided to paint the crank arms and hubs is beyond me.

smd4

Where did GPX fit in the lineup?

I've seen Suntour hidden spring calipers. Gorgeous.

Catnap 

DBDad I just sent you a PM - I've got a freshly restored Raleigh Competition for $500. Lots of info and hi-res photos here: https://djcatnap.com/raleigh-competi...i-restoration/

DBDad

Jeez, that was a long 24 hrs to wait…

So this’ll give me my 10 posts. bamboobike4 I’ll give you a shout via PM. Catnap thanks for the Raleigh PM. I’ll take a look.

Set a new PR today for a ten miler. Pretty excited about that.

bamboobike4

Not sure, but I think I saw a chart once and they were below the top, but I'm not sure if the chart separated indexed from friction.
They were designed and marketed to compete against Shimano's "tricolor," but too little too late.
The shifting pod was very well-designed, and durable, but lacked the flexibility of Shimano's backing plate/shifting pod system.
One thing about GPX: when you shifted, you certainly had no doubt it shifted.
The freewheel cogs were straight-cut, so the chain "settled" solidly.
I'm not sure it was compatible with a Shimano freewheel, but top506 would know or canklecat .

philbob57

'54 CM' is not necessarily '54 CM'. The Brits and, IIRC, the French tended to measure STs center-to-top; Italians, center-to-center. That's about a 1/2" difference. Also, for the same ST length, the top tube will be located slightly differently for different seat angles.
*****
WRT components, there's this (from DisraeliGears.co.uk): "Frank Berto caustically comments that the Campagnolo Nuovo Record rear derailleur shifted poorly, but was so well constructed that it would keep on shifting exactly as poorly - forever." Sheldon thinks Suntour's problems stemmed at least in part from underpricing the Cyclone ders. The Simplexes I had shifted smoothly, and I never had a problem with a Simplex rear der; I can't say that about their front der. I've never owned Hurets, just Suntours, a few Campagnolos, and the one Shimano (a 600EX which made me pine for the Suntour Vx that was on my stolen Atala). I suffered through a Campy GT. Now THAT was crap.

IOW, in the 1970s and early '80s, maybe up until Shimano came out with the SIS system, and maybe until Suntour's patent expired, Suntour buyers got the best ders at the best prices.

There are other necessary components, of course. I can't comment on them, except that I always wanted Campy Record hubs and finally got a pair 6 years ago.

DBDad

Thanks, I was actually researching that when your post came up. I’m looking at a Miele on EBay and the seller measured the seat tube at 54 center-to-center. I’m guessing these bikes are measured in the Italian way since Miele was Italian even though he built bikes in Canada? If so, it would be my size.

beng1

I agree it is analogous, and that there are few good reasons pursue ownership of a Ferrari or Lambo either, or most impractical things. I would much rather hang around with people who were happy with what is practical, than those who spent their lives chasing the fashionable and trendy.

Classtime 

A nice Raleigh Pro recently sold on eBay for less than $1,000. I’d wait for one if that was my budget and I wanted a vintage racing Raleigh.

smd4

Ugh. Living the life of the practical. No excitement in life. No attending county fairs; no roller coasters; no Christmas trees; no birthday parties; no candy; no barbecues, no flavor in your food. Dare I say it--no booze!...How boring your life must be--albeit very practical, I'm sure.

DBDad

I grabbed a Miele off of EBay last night. I made an offer under list price and apparently it was automatically accepted. If I’d have know that I’d have started lower… Anyway, I’m excited about the bike. I’ll attach photos. Can anyone tell me the model? Any info on the bike? Also, I can’t tell if the hubs are Santé, it looks like everything else is. Thanks for all your input. I have a feeling this is just the beginning and I’ll be buying more of these old bikes. The photos are from the listing.