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Reaming and tapping - NOS steel frame

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Reaming and tapping - NOS steel frame

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Old 04-25-21, 07:53 AM
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Jacksyboy
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Reaming and tapping - NOS steel frame

Hi All,
I have an NOS casati frame that i've slowly sourced all parts for . Unfortunately I've now learned that the head tube, seat tube both need reaming to 1" and 27.2mm respectively. Plus the italian bottom bracket thread needs tapping/clean thread.
Anyone got any ideas on solutions other than me sending it away? I live in Qatar.. The tools themselves will cost more than I paid for frame.
I might be better off just selling it and moving on from the idea
Cheers
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Old 04-25-21, 08:05 AM
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The seat tube does not need reaming, just use a smaller diameter seat post.

You may be able to use sand paper for the head tube. Be sure to have your headset before you start removing metal.

The BB threads will be more difficult, You could try a thread file. While those files are best with convex threads, the larger diameter of the convex BB threads may give the tool some efficacy.
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Old 04-25-21, 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Jacksyboy
Hi All,
I have an NOS casati frame that i've slowly sourced all parts for . Unfortunately I've now learned that the head tube, seat tube both need reaming to 1" and 27.2mm respectively. Plus the italian bottom bracket thread needs tapping/clean thread.
Anyone got any ideas on solutions other than me sending it away? I live in Qatar.. The tools themselves will cost more than I paid for frame.
I might be better off just selling it and moving on from the idea
Cheers
Head tubes are bigger than 1" to start with; do you mean that you need to go from 30.0 to 30.2 for the cups?

Because if so and the cups are aluminium[1] you could find someone with a lathe to take a cut off the cups - and the crown race if it's 26.4 and you have a 27.0 fork.

As for the BB, if the threads are there but just dirty/rusty a short wire brush on a handle - like a toothbrush - is what I use; that and a bit of grease has made almost every tight cup I've had go in with no drama.

[1] If they're steel this can still be done, but it's a little trickier as they are likely hardened, the lathe and tooling will need be be rigid and sharp.

Last edited by oneclick; 04-25-21 at 11:17 AM.
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Old 04-25-21, 09:08 AM
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If the bottom bracket needs the threads chased, you may also need to face the bottom bracket.

If you just need to clean the threads, you can possibly make a tool by sacrificing a bottom bracket cup. If you cut sections out of the threads (probably at least four) you can turn the bracket into a low quality tap that will clean threads (it won't cut new threads).

Last edited by wesley77803; 04-25-21 at 09:10 AM. Reason: grammar fix "a bottom bracket"
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Old 04-25-21, 12:29 PM
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Jacksyboy
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Thanks folks. I tried to upload 3 pics but the Forum wont allow me to. In 8 more messages i can
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Old 04-25-21, 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by wesley77803
If you just need to clean the threads, you can possibly make a tool by sacrificing a bottom bracket cup. If you cut sections out of the threads (probably at least four) you can turn the bracket into a low quality tap that will clean threads (it won't cut new threads).
Yes, use a Dremel or similar tool with a stone wheel to grind some channels through the threads. If the bottom bracket is Italian thread, one such tool can chase both sides.
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Old 04-25-21, 02:58 PM
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You can buy cheap used tools for reaming. You just have to not buy bicycling specific tools. I don't know how expensive shipping would be to Qatar, though. Maybe another $50 from the USA where I know these tools are plentiful. I have got an adjustable reamer for under $30 that does most seatpost sizes. And another one for $25 that does anything a stem might go into. Search "Chadwick reamer" or "Adjustable reamer" on evilbay and see what you see. They are usually marked with a size in inches or else they're marked with a letter that denotes a size, which is easy enough to look up. Sometimes the blades of a used one will be a little dull. This can actually be beneficial for the beginner, if you get it off angle or it gets hung up on something. As your skill level increases (and you become known as "the person with the reamers"), you will make back the money you spent on them in favors from your bicycle friends and can purchase a whetstone to sharpen up the blades.

And yes, you can also do it with sandpaper and maybe a half-round file if sandpaper is going slow. But I did this enough to want some cheap reamers.
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Old 04-25-21, 03:04 PM
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Old 04-25-21, 04:39 PM
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Well, at least no chrome!

not having tools or access will be tough.
there was some “machining” done but not careful work it looks like.

there are a few workarounds- a lower cost Aluminum cup headset- the softer aluminum will yield- an eccentric loading bottom bracket
edco made one, VeloOrange sells one still I think. No threading required.
for the seatpost- clean it up with a brake piston hone and see what you need- 27.0?
add 5-10 mm of headset spacers to make the fork safe for a different headset later.
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Old 04-25-21, 05:33 PM
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I understand that it would be nice to clean things up a bit by chasing and facing but did you try fitting your parts as is? You can always get it done proper when it is convenient.
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Old 04-25-21, 07:43 PM
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Get a wire brush bit for your drill and clean the threads and seat area with it. Your build should go fine with just that bit of cleaning. Smiles, MH
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Old 04-25-21, 08:41 PM
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The proper tools are expensive because they are precision tools. Precision tools are what it takes to do those tasks properly. You can ham-hand it any way you like and the results will never be the same. BTW - adjustable reamers have ruined more work than you can imagine and few people seemingly know how to use one as intended. Far the majority of the people I've observed seem as well to be ignorant of even how to use a reamer at all.
All the machining on a bike is a one time expense and mistakes are not fixable.
But then, it's your frame.
just sayin'
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Old 04-25-21, 09:01 PM
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For the bottom bracket you might be able to use a VO threadless bottom bracket.
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