My E+ review
#151
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Metalman,
for electronic calibration you need discharge E+ NMH completely untill cut off and next charge fully including final balancing stage.
This way PIC chip on DSP board will register new high and new low for battery and adjust SOC displaying accordingly.
Tell me.
You are the owner with biggest millage on 1000W Eplus I ever heard or read.
Congratulation.
Did you noticed any mechanical issues with motor, like noises, cogging or loose torque arm, etc???
Any problems except batteries of course?
miro13car
for electronic calibration you need discharge E+ NMH completely untill cut off and next charge fully including final balancing stage.
This way PIC chip on DSP board will register new high and new low for battery and adjust SOC displaying accordingly.
Tell me.
You are the owner with biggest millage on 1000W Eplus I ever heard or read.
Congratulation.
Did you noticed any mechanical issues with motor, like noises, cogging or loose torque arm, etc???
Any problems except batteries of course?
miro13car
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That makes sense with one battery, but how about with the two?
The motor has been perfect. I've had a few displays replaced, first one quit after a rain storm. I went through a few more, we eventually traced the problem to the main harness which was then changed and that took care of that problem. The thumb throttle was also replaced under warranty.
I just went out and checked the mileage, it has 8,566 on it now. That's since November 2010.
The motor has been perfect. I've had a few displays replaced, first one quit after a rain storm. I went through a few more, we eventually traced the problem to the main harness which was then changed and that took care of that problem. The thumb throttle was also replaced under warranty.
I just went out and checked the mileage, it has 8,566 on it now. That's since November 2010.
#153
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With two batteries, you should charge them separate if they were used separately as one could be used up more than the other... I have found that with my fishing/electric motor the battery's never charge up as fully together as separately... JMO Unless I charge them up with one charger - on one battery and the other on the + on the other battery with both batteries hooked together with separate cables in parallel?... Don't really know if that makes sense but... It works well in that application.
.................................. +).....(-' neg battery charger
positive battery charger '+(.....) -
.................................. +).....(-' neg battery charger
positive battery charger '+(.....) -
#154
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Metalman
Thank you for feedback.
there are two rain-sensitive points on Eplus:
1. front data connector /same brand as on Tidal Force - HIROSE/
2. display/controller
solution for connector is to disconnect, slide heatshrink tubing even 2 inch long over up communication cable, connect , slide down just enough to cover lower part of connector maybe 1/4 inch , creating "skirt" . Next place some silicone into tubing at the top, next heatshrink with heatgun only upper part of tubing
You would have to streach this skirt with pliers to be able to connect.
To weather-proof display/controller I applied slicone , applied silicone around edge of glass window .
About batteries.
If they had approximately same usage it woud be no problem.
PIC chip on BMS runs the code/software/ , counts discharge, takes cell volt readings /in group of 5 cells/ and decides what to display.
For correct displaying it needs to register real low /cut off/ voltage and real after charge voltage.
When this low and high voltages change every charge and complete discharge , BMS can get "confused".
your extra hub is NOT battery B and still is seen as battery A.
Maybe Rick Ruggiero would know how to assaign status B to this extra hub.
350htrr,
I cannot even imagine paraller charging of two hub batteries.
you don't know but Eplus battery is much more complex than you think.
each hub battery has electronics buit-in, there are not just cells.
Thank you for feedback.
there are two rain-sensitive points on Eplus:
1. front data connector /same brand as on Tidal Force - HIROSE/
2. display/controller
solution for connector is to disconnect, slide heatshrink tubing even 2 inch long over up communication cable, connect , slide down just enough to cover lower part of connector maybe 1/4 inch , creating "skirt" . Next place some silicone into tubing at the top, next heatshrink with heatgun only upper part of tubing
You would have to streach this skirt with pliers to be able to connect.
To weather-proof display/controller I applied slicone , applied silicone around edge of glass window .
About batteries.
If they had approximately same usage it woud be no problem.
PIC chip on BMS runs the code/software/ , counts discharge, takes cell volt readings /in group of 5 cells/ and decides what to display.
For correct displaying it needs to register real low /cut off/ voltage and real after charge voltage.
When this low and high voltages change every charge and complete discharge , BMS can get "confused".
your extra hub is NOT battery B and still is seen as battery A.
Maybe Rick Ruggiero would know how to assaign status B to this extra hub.
350htrr,
I cannot even imagine paraller charging of two hub batteries.
you don't know but Eplus battery is much more complex than you think.
each hub battery has electronics buit-in, there are not just cells.
Last edited by powell; 01-12-13 at 12:00 AM.
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Passed over 8700 miles today. It's pitiful how little I've been using the Big Dummy lately, I did get another E bike last fall and I have over 400 miles on that so far.
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Metalman
Thank you for your ongoing report
8,700 miles that's impressive
Especially that you use your EPLUS installed on cargo bike
So 8700 heavy duty miles
My converted Eplus runs much better in the sense that it sustain max speed for much longer than on NMH cells
Precisely because A123 sag so little
I want post more pictures
Front hub is no more on my Eplus front wheel replaced with Chris King hub much lower rolling resistance
Thank you for your ongoing report
8,700 miles that's impressive
Especially that you use your EPLUS installed on cargo bike
So 8700 heavy duty miles
My converted Eplus runs much better in the sense that it sustain max speed for much longer than on NMH cells
Precisely because A123 sag so little
I want post more pictures
Front hub is no more on my Eplus front wheel replaced with Chris King hub much lower rolling resistance
Last edited by powell; 02-27-13 at 01:07 PM.
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Using relative warm weather I took my Eplus Biria to grocery
Ethnic shop 14kms away
It run lovely even in weather which felt fridged plus 5C but with humidity of over 90%
let Me tell you that feels freezing
Maintaining 40km/h was no problem for Eplus in such a cold with fake pedalling
In level 6 I was able to reach 40km/h and mostly stayed in that level
Eplus 9 power levels are very good computerized design , no gadgets
I used measly 14Wh of electrical energy per km !!!!!!
Testimony to efficiency of EPLUS
Ethnic shop 14kms away
It run lovely even in weather which felt fridged plus 5C but with humidity of over 90%
let Me tell you that feels freezing
Maintaining 40km/h was no problem for Eplus in such a cold with fake pedalling
In level 6 I was able to reach 40km/h and mostly stayed in that level
Eplus 9 power levels are very good computerized design , no gadgets
I used measly 14Wh of electrical energy per km !!!!!!
Testimony to efficiency of EPLUS
Last edited by powell; 03-08-13 at 05:02 PM.
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Spring is coming slowely.
Only small patches of snow here and there.
My EPLUS BIRIA project is completed.
You judge yourself from pictures.
Low mounted battery pack looks weird mounted soooo low, but believe me - very practical, CofGravity must be low , laws of physics.
This ebike is going to be my only commuter in spring, summer and fall, so reliability is a must, it must be reliable.
It means bike quality components, because EPLUS electric drive proofed itself beyond the doubt as Metalman uses it on cargo heavy duty bike.
BIRIA was $450 bicycle so I knew from start that I will be replacing almost everthing except frame which is Taiwan-made.
Components on BIRIA can only be described as crap, no brand names , like $9 BBracket, $15 rear shifter/plastic !!!!/ , horrible creaking stem/heandlebar.And list goes on and on.
I pressed real headset in myself, installed stem, fork , brakes ,
etc.etc.
Only small patches of snow here and there.
My EPLUS BIRIA project is completed.
You judge yourself from pictures.
Low mounted battery pack looks weird mounted soooo low, but believe me - very practical, CofGravity must be low , laws of physics.
This ebike is going to be my only commuter in spring, summer and fall, so reliability is a must, it must be reliable.
It means bike quality components, because EPLUS electric drive proofed itself beyond the doubt as Metalman uses it on cargo heavy duty bike.
BIRIA was $450 bicycle so I knew from start that I will be replacing almost everthing except frame which is Taiwan-made.
Components on BIRIA can only be described as crap, no brand names , like $9 BBracket, $15 rear shifter/plastic !!!!/ , horrible creaking stem/heandlebar.And list goes on and on.
I pressed real headset in myself, installed stem, fork , brakes ,
etc.etc.
Last edited by powell; 04-21-13 at 11:20 AM.
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Nice color scheme! Can you use the pedals? In the photos it looks like the left pedal is blocked by the battery housing. What is in the yellow plastic box by the head tube?
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wrandyr
thank you for comment.
As you can see.
Of course I can pedal normally , maybe pictures don't show it. There is around 1cm clearance between crank and side of the box.
I replace $9 Biria BBracket with much, much better USA PhilWood legendary quality with longer axle/spinner/ just 1.5cm longer on each side.
Plastic box bolted to headtube is brand name PELICAN box housing a 17Amps charger, 17A is a pitance for A123, but hudge current for NMH cells.
After conversion my Eplus is not a one-trip-a-day ebike anymore.
thank you for comment.
As you can see.
Of course I can pedal normally , maybe pictures don't show it. There is around 1cm clearance between crank and side of the box.
I replace $9 Biria BBracket with much, much better USA PhilWood legendary quality with longer axle/spinner/ just 1.5cm longer on each side.
Plastic box bolted to headtube is brand name PELICAN box housing a 17Amps charger, 17A is a pitance for A123, but hudge current for NMH cells.
After conversion my Eplus is not a one-trip-a-day ebike anymore.
Last edited by powell; 04-22-13 at 09:28 PM.
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Metalman,
impressive indeed
real workhorse
I haven't seen anything like that before.
So you are approaching incredible 15,000km on your EPLUS with no motor/controller problems.
It is only thread on this forum which document ebike with such millage.
impressive indeed
real workhorse
I haven't seen anything like that before.
So you are approaching incredible 15,000km on your EPLUS with no motor/controller problems.
It is only thread on this forum which document ebike with such millage.
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The motor has been perfect. I have had the display changed a few times if that's what you are calling the controller. The first issue I had was when it got wet, then I kept having problems so we replaced the complete wire harness.
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for those who consider ebike which lasts and with tech knowledge.
There must be hundred or more of Eplus bikes with dead NMH batteries out there begging to be converted to Lithium.
The problem is how do you search CRAG lists USA-wide not city by city.
There must be hundred or more of Eplus bikes with dead NMH batteries out there begging to be converted to Lithium.
The problem is how do you search CRAG lists USA-wide not city by city.
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So weather was so nice on weekend, temperature almost 15C with 20-25 km/h wind.
I went for a nice ride on my Eplus.
Many short stops and go /often acceleration from dead stops/when I was checking here and there .
Terrain mostly flat, half way with 20km/h another half with around 30km/h headwind according to forecast tat day.
so here are statistics according to Cycle Analist.
distance: 26.6 km
Ah used: 7.69Ah
WHr used: 307Wh
Wh per km: 11.5Wh/km
Amax.: 21.9Amps
Max.speed: 49.9 km/hour
POWER LEVEL 5 /out of 9 power levels/
You must remeber that itwas not that beautiful summer day around 20C with warm wind.
It was just above 10C with cold nasty wind.
The fact that Eplus can achive above 49km/hour even with 20km/h wind in just level 5 testifies to its efficiency.
As of today I have 5,101 km on my Eplus.
I went for a nice ride on my Eplus.
Many short stops and go /often acceleration from dead stops/when I was checking here and there .
Terrain mostly flat, half way with 20km/h another half with around 30km/h headwind according to forecast tat day.
so here are statistics according to Cycle Analist.
distance: 26.6 km
Ah used: 7.69Ah
WHr used: 307Wh
Wh per km: 11.5Wh/km
Amax.: 21.9Amps
Max.speed: 49.9 km/hour
POWER LEVEL 5 /out of 9 power levels/
You must remeber that itwas not that beautiful summer day around 20C with warm wind.
It was just above 10C with cold nasty wind.
The fact that Eplus can achive above 49km/hour even with 20km/h wind in just level 5 testifies to its efficiency.
As of today I have 5,101 km on my Eplus.
Last edited by powell; 05-03-13 at 03:59 AM.
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Congratulations, Metal Man! The cargo carrying capacity of the Surly Big Dummy is phenomenal.
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Be a part of the solution to Climate Change instead of a contributor.
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10K = Awesome = Congrats!! What is the history of batteries, type of batteries, replacement and how old are current batteries?
Thanks for info
Thanks for info
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The front one is original. The rear was bought a few months later, it's all in this thread. I do believe they have degraded some, but all considered I can't complain.
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WOW
That is one real workhorse of yours.
I can only imagine how much money do you save on gasoline.
If I might ask
how much do you weight.
My Eplus just works normally as new, I am 66kg so maybe 130punds, so it has easy life to carry me, but is powered now on Lithium with often 1350W drawn at over 50km/h speeds.
On nickel factory battery I saw 1100W at the most and breafly.
Why?
Eplus is computerized system with all kind of sensors built into motor. When voltage sags of cells reported to computer reach certain tresholds computer limits power to save cells from more sag. WHILE powered on Lithium A123 voltage sag is minimal so computer does not limit power. So on other hand my motor has harder life and gets warmer than on nickel battery.
Unlike cheap China motors which use external controllers , Eplus cannot be destroyed by heat, overvoltage, overcurrent, you name it.
I just reached 6339kilometers on mine Eplus.
That is one real workhorse of yours.
I can only imagine how much money do you save on gasoline.
If I might ask
how much do you weight.
My Eplus just works normally as new, I am 66kg so maybe 130punds, so it has easy life to carry me, but is powered now on Lithium with often 1350W drawn at over 50km/h speeds.
On nickel factory battery I saw 1100W at the most and breafly.
Why?
Eplus is computerized system with all kind of sensors built into motor. When voltage sags of cells reported to computer reach certain tresholds computer limits power to save cells from more sag. WHILE powered on Lithium A123 voltage sag is minimal so computer does not limit power. So on other hand my motor has harder life and gets warmer than on nickel battery.
Unlike cheap China motors which use external controllers , Eplus cannot be destroyed by heat, overvoltage, overcurrent, you name it.
I just reached 6339kilometers on mine Eplus.
Last edited by powell; 07-26-13 at 09:01 PM.
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I'm now at about 10,700 miles on the Big Dummy. Last week I got a new Lithium Ion battery. It's pretty awesome now, so much more power than before.
I got this battery.
https://em3ev.com/store/index.php?rou...product_id=105
And this charger.
https://em3ev.com/store/index.php?rou...product_id=146
I have it mounted mostly below the deck behind the seat.
I still need to have the data connector plugged in to make the system work so I still have to use the front hub. Since I was running it with the two batteries I'm down about 6 pounds with this new battery. The system shuts down every ten minutes this way and I don't have a battery level gauge now.
Over the last few hundred miles my original front hub has really degraded. For the last year or so you couldn't run it above level 7 or it would shut down. This wasn't an issue because I wouldn't normally run it that high anyways. Last week I wasn't able to run it on 5 now it's to the point where it will only run on 1. This weekend I plan on swapping the hub I had mounted on the rear into the front wheel.
I got this battery.
https://em3ev.com/store/index.php?rou...product_id=105
And this charger.
https://em3ev.com/store/index.php?rou...product_id=146
I have it mounted mostly below the deck behind the seat.
I still need to have the data connector plugged in to make the system work so I still have to use the front hub. Since I was running it with the two batteries I'm down about 6 pounds with this new battery. The system shuts down every ten minutes this way and I don't have a battery level gauge now.
Over the last few hundred miles my original front hub has really degraded. For the last year or so you couldn't run it above level 7 or it would shut down. This wasn't an issue because I wouldn't normally run it that high anyways. Last week I wasn't able to run it on 5 now it's to the point where it will only run on 1. This weekend I plan on swapping the hub I had mounted on the rear into the front wheel.
#173
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MetaMan
so you mounted new battery where your second hub was - behind the seat.
Can you reach 30mph with no pedalling?
But your bike is very heavy , it is like two bikes powered by one motor.
Your EPLUS is much lively now like with new NMH hub except it feels strong even after 20 miles runs - impossible even with new with NMH hub.
so you mounted new battery where your second hub was - behind the seat.
Can you reach 30mph with no pedalling?
But your bike is very heavy , it is like two bikes powered by one motor.
Your EPLUS is much lively now like with new NMH hub except it feels strong even after 20 miles runs - impossible even with new with NMH hub.
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I passed 11,000 miles last week, unfortunately I am having a problem with my new battery. It looks like the BMS went out on me. I didn't know there was a procedure to follow in plugging it in. They are sending me a new BMS under warranty. I hope it doesn't take too long.