Mixing brands of lockring and cassette
09-14-21, 11:52 AM
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Mixing brands of lockring and cassette
Asking for a friend 
. Could he, for example, use a Shimano lockring to avoid advertising to all the elitists in the club that he has a Microshift cassette?
. Could he, for example, use a Shimano lockring to avoid advertising to all the elitists in the club that he has a Microshift cassette?
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09-14-21, 12:13 PM
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if it fits, shouldn’t be a problem. I use an old Rolf lock ring on my Campag cassette/freehub. The Rolf is lighter and better finished than the Campag ring (Campag finishing isn’t what it was)
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09-14-21, 01:26 PM
#3
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Since 11T lock rings are different than >11T lock rings, what could possibly go wrong?
What if you have slightly less thread engagement and strip one/both threads?
Your friend needs new friends. You can't count on people that are THAT PETTY!
What if you have slightly less thread engagement and strip one/both threads?
Your friend needs new friends. You can't count on people that are THAT PETTY!
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09-14-21, 03:09 PM
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If they look that closely then they'll probably be able to tell from the teeth and finish on the cogs.
Maybe just letting it get a little gunked up will hide the shameful fact he cheaped out of paying 10 bucks more. But if they are that picky, then I guess you'll get grief for not cleaning the chain and cogs. I mean he'll get grief.....
Maybe just letting it get a little gunked up will hide the shameful fact he cheaped out of paying 10 bucks more. But if they are that picky, then I guess you'll get grief for not cleaning the chain and cogs. I mean he'll get grief.....
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09-14-21, 03:10 PM
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Generally, yes, you can swap.
Few things to watch out for;
Shape and thickness of the outer portion of the lockring, (the part that sits between the small cog and the drop-out). Some of the alloy rings are thicker and may not protrude past the axle locknut on some hubs. SRAM's domed shaped rings protrudes further that Shimano's steel rings are an example.
Length of the threaded portion of the lockring. Needs to be long enough to get good engagement with the freehub body. But not so long that it interferes with the dust cap in the freehub body.
Proper engagement between the serrations on the lockring and the smallest cog.
Few things to watch out for;
Shape and thickness of the outer portion of the lockring, (the part that sits between the small cog and the drop-out). Some of the alloy rings are thicker and may not protrude past the axle locknut on some hubs. SRAM's domed shaped rings protrudes further that Shimano's steel rings are an example.
Length of the threaded portion of the lockring. Needs to be long enough to get good engagement with the freehub body. But not so long that it interferes with the dust cap in the freehub body.
Proper engagement between the serrations on the lockring and the smallest cog.
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09-14-21, 06:48 PM
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Have your buddy reverse the snobbery. He can sneer at the elitist that he has all the functionality for half the price they paid.
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09-14-21, 06:51 PM
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Generally, yes, you can swap.
Few things to watch out for;
Shape and thickness of the outer portion of the lockring, (the part that sits between the small cog and the drop-out). Some of the alloy rings are thicker and may not protrude past the axle locknut on some hubs. SRAM's domed shaped rings protrudes further that Shimano's steel rings are an example.
Length of the threaded portion of the lockring. Needs to be long enough to get good engagement with the freehub body. But not so long that it interferes with the dust cap in the freehub body.
Proper engagement between the serrations on the lockring and the smallest cog.
Few things to watch out for;
Shape and thickness of the outer portion of the lockring, (the part that sits between the small cog and the drop-out). Some of the alloy rings are thicker and may not protrude past the axle locknut on some hubs. SRAM's domed shaped rings protrudes further that Shimano's steel rings are an example.
Length of the threaded portion of the lockring. Needs to be long enough to get good engagement with the freehub body. But not so long that it interferes with the dust cap in the freehub body.
Proper engagement between the serrations on the lockring and the smallest cog.
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09-14-21, 09:34 PM
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Other than thread engagement and a small enough lockring diameter to clear the chain, I’ve never paid much attention to which lockring I use.
There is merit in straight vs domed if dropout space is tight.
At times I’ve even used a non-1st position cog without serrations, or placed a shim or 2 between the 1st position cog and the lockring. That pretty much throws all the theories out the window.
Thread engagement, diameter, and a torque wrench solves everything.
John
There is merit in straight vs domed if dropout space is tight.
At times I’ve even used a non-1st position cog without serrations, or placed a shim or 2 between the 1st position cog and the lockring. That pretty much throws all the theories out the window.
Thread engagement, diameter, and a torque wrench solves everything.
John
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09-15-21, 12:48 AM
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As Charles Bukowski once said: "We are here to laugh at those who use Shimano, and live our lives with Microshift so well that Death will tremble to take us."
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