Trying to figure out whether This Trek Bike is Worth $90
#1
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Trying to figure out whether This Trek Bike is Worth $90
....and how much cost and trouble it would be to out normal drops and change the shifters if I need to. Couldn't get any real info on the model or year. Supposedly it is perfectly rideable as is so it may be a good deal but it's an hour away and I don't want to waste my time on junk or if I have to buy new handlebars. Mom ignorant about those bars please help.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1537402076593064/
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1537402076593064/
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Buy the Trek. When you get it home, remove the added-on aero bar extensions. This will reveal the stock dropped bars as sold, and you can turn them downwards slightly a better position. Then remove the shifters from the aero extensions, loosen the shift cables from the derailleurs and slide them free, remove the cable stops from the frame and put the shifters on the mounts on the downtube where they probably were when the bike left the factory. Run your cables back to the derailleurs, clip off the excess, adjust and Bob's yer uncle.
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Another vote for the Trek. Totally agree with rusystrings61 on what to do with the bike. Get rid of those aero bars!
This looks like a Trek 1200 from 1992.
Before you buy, make sure it fits. Get a test ride and check for any damages to the frame (dents, cracks, etc.) or front fork (bent).
Good luck!
This looks like a Trek 1200 from 1992.
Before you buy, make sure it fits. Get a test ride and check for any damages to the frame (dents, cracks, etc.) or front fork (bent).
Good luck!
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#5
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Buy the Trek. When you get it home, remove the added-on aero bar extensions. This will reveal the stock dropped bars as sold, and you can turn them downwards slightly a better position. Then remove the shifters from the aero extensions, loosen the shift cables from the derailleurs and slide them free, remove the cable stops from the frame and put the shifters on the mounts on the downtube where they probably were when the bike left the factory. Run your cables back to the derailleurs, clip off the excess, adjust and Bob's yer uncle.
I've never done that before. I've changes tires and adjusted brakes. Never played with derailleurs. How much would a shop charge for that?
Thanks so much for the input! Just out of curiosity what is better about the trek?
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You just need to unscrew these aero bars and move the shifters to the down tube. If you don’t want to attach the shifters and adjust the derailleurs yourself, your local bike shop should be able to do it for very little money.
I personally like the Trek more as this has a nice classic road bike geometry and classic color too. The 1000 was the aluminum entry version, followed by the 1100, 1200, 1400.
It all depends what you want to do with it…
#8
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Ok! Thanks guys! Totally changed my mind! This board can really be amazing. I will make the Trek to see the trek then. Sounds like it's worth the trip and the hassle. I guess it wouldn't hurt to have a bike shop go over it anyway.
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Did you not get the Scott CX bike.
Last edited by shelbyfv; 09-20-21 at 02:28 PM.
#10
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Buy the Trek. When you get it home, remove the added-on aero bar extensions. This will reveal the stock dropped bars as sold, and you can turn them downwards slightly a better position. Then remove the shifters from the aero extensions, loosen the shift cables from the derailleurs and slide them free, remove the cable stops from the frame and put the shifters on the mounts on the downtube where they probably were when the bike left the factory. Run your cables back to the derailleurs, clip off the excess, adjust and Bob's yer uncle.
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1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
#11
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Unfortunately the Trek is too small. So it's either the Novara for $150, a Giant Sedona for $120 or a Giant ATX for $90. The Sedona has street tires but the ATX has Knobbies which I'd want to change.
Which would be a better commuter/grocery getter?
Which would be faster all other things being equal?
Which would be a better commuter/grocery getter?
Which would be faster all other things being equal?
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/967379230749191/
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2045867172243504/
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/967379230749191/
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2045867172243504/
#12
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#13
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The Randonnee is a good solid bike that can take a fat tire. It is versatile. If you want a road bike to go fast, a bike like the Trek would be a better choice assuming it had fit you. The Randonnee is a more versatile bike.
What do you want a bike for?
What do you want a bike for?
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Simple answer YES it's worth $90 actually worth 2 to 3 x that if it has no m major damage
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Unfortunately the Trek is too small. So it's either the Novara for $150, a Giant Sedona for $120 or a Giant ATX for $90. The Sedona has street tires but the ATX has Knobbies which I'd want to change.
Which would be a better commuter/grocery getter?
Which would be faster all other things being equal?
Which would be a better commuter/grocery getter?
Which would be faster all other things being equal?
IF the tires are good I would go with sedona. Considering a nice set of street tires are hard to find and run close to $100 bin the current market.