MoreCarbs

Here are my gathered assumptions for adjusting hub axle spacing and position:
-Exposed QR axle should be 4-5mm past the locknut and not go past outside of dropouts
-O.L.D. should be the same as dropouts (inner to inner)
-There should be ~5mm from the smallest cog face to that side's locknut so there is room for the chain from the frame

I had to get new cones, and my planned sequence is to:
1. Tighten drive side cone to locknut, leaving ~4mm of exposed axle and with expected spacers to allow for chain clearance from the frame.
2. Pack grease & install new bearings.
3. Insert axle and put on non drive side cones, spacers, and locknut to match the drive side.
4. Add/remove spacers equally on both sides so OLD is same as dropout spacing,
5. Adjust axle position so exposed axle is the same on both sides, but not past the dropouts.

I’d appreciate any corrections or suggestions on my assumptions, and achieving them by that sequence of events.

Still some questions:
-Must there be equal spacers (between cones and locknuts) on each end of the axle?
-If unclamped dropouts are ~2mm wider than OLD, is that okay or should I add washers to expand OLD to match dropouts more closely?

Thank you!

Bill Kapaun

Rear axles frequently have different cones & spacers.
If the axle is currently correct, take a picture of the parts orientation and duplicate. Else get the exploded view manual if Shimano.
Film is cheap.

Andrew R Stewart 

"Still some questions:
-Must there be equal spacers (between cones and locknuts) on each end of the axle?
-If unclamped dropouts are ~2mm wider than OLD, is that okay or should I add washers to expand OLD to match dropouts more closely?" MoreCarbs

- No, or the two sides of the axle will be the same "length"
- 2mm of stay compression in is not a deal killer. But since you are playing around with axle spacers why settle for good enough when better is only a few minutes more effort?

My usual pattern to axle replacement is pretty much along your guidelines. Set the cog end of the axle as clearances require and fill the LH end as needed to make up the overall width. Dish the wheel to match the axle spacing. Andy

hokiefyd 

There's a maximum there, depending on the thickness of your dropouts. This is not a minimum measurement. If your dropouts are, say, only 3mm thick (maybe old pressed steel ones), then your axles should extend only 2 or 2.5mm beyond the locknut. The primary purpose of this is getting the wheel installed -- the axle itself generally doesn't bear any weight while you ride...assuming your QR skewer is tightened properly. The clamping force of the QR skewer against the dropout, against the lock nuts, is what bears your weight.

MoreCarbs

I suppose another assumption would be that the rim be centered with the frame, preferably by spacers then wheel dishing.

had to get new cones that have slightly different thickness, and wanted to approach it without necessarily referencing the previous configuration.

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True, just need to get thinner washers/spacers from LBS or hardware store.

right, not extending past the dropout being the main requirement there.

my current measurements are
Rear drops
134.9mm inside to inside
149.5mm outer to outer (for 7.3mm rear dropout thickness)
141mm rear axle length

Fork drops
101.8mm inside to inside
113.3mm outer to outer (for 5.7mm fork dropout thickness)
108mm front axle length

Bill Kapaun

The thing to keep in mind is-
The cassette has to be located a specific distance from the drop out because the RDER EXPECTS it to be there. You've got a slight amount of "wiggle room", but it really doesn't take that much more effort to do it right. Think of it as your foundation.
Comparing a couple different (decent quality) bikes to see how much distance between the smallest cog and the DO should give an idea of what you want.

Adjust your spacers to give that on the DS and then finish up with what you need on the NDS.
IF it's the original wheel, the dish should be very close.
If you need to change the dish of the wheel, that's really not a big deal unless the nipples are corroded to the spokes.
IF I had that prospect in my future, I'd use my hypodermic w/ penetrating oil and apply a drop per nipple and let soak for a bit.

Andrew R Stewart 

88 Andy