Leather saddle texture
05-30-23, 08:14 AM
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Leather saddle texture
I’m switching saddles around after just purchasing a used Ideale 92 Diagonale, and was wondering about the texture.
This is probably from the early 80s. Flipper seller did say he put a bit of neatsfoot oil on it. The texture is similar to a comfortable well broken in Brooks Pro I have from the same era. I have several B15s, and B17s. A couple of the newer 17s seem to not want to break in at all.
This one just won’t get comfortable, and I just switched it up to my upright conversion that has a hybrid style riding position. I have put Proofide and Obenaufs on this, but the hard surface just shrugs it off. This hard surface on an older B15 I have has developed cracks in the top. My limited experience seems to show that they don’t really soften up with cracks. I think I like the more porous surface treatment. Any comments or advice?
This is probably from the early 80s. Flipper seller did say he put a bit of neatsfoot oil on it. The texture is similar to a comfortable well broken in Brooks Pro I have from the same era. I have several B15s, and B17s. A couple of the newer 17s seem to not want to break in at all.
This one just won’t get comfortable, and I just switched it up to my upright conversion that has a hybrid style riding position. I have put Proofide and Obenaufs on this, but the hard surface just shrugs it off. This hard surface on an older B15 I have has developed cracks in the top. My limited experience seems to show that they don’t really soften up with cracks. I think I like the more porous surface treatment. Any comments or advice?
05-30-23, 08:51 AM
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I have that same Brooks B17 Standard that you pictured and I agree that they are not as easy to break in as the Pro's that I have on my other bikes. I have well over 500 miles on mine and it is finally starting to get comfy. I also found that a little tilt back ( very little) helped quite a bit. It is , in my case , a bit of an unfair comparison as most of my Pro's are earlier editions from the 70's and 80's and the B 17 is from about 2015 ( i got it new , but second hand ). I also have an Ideale 87 that has an almost suede feel to it but it is very old. The Ideal is very comfy.
05-30-23, 08:54 AM
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This one just won’t get comfortable, and I just switched it up to my upright conversion that has a hybrid style riding position. I have put Proofide and Obenaufs on this, but the hard surface just shrugs it off. This hard surface on an older B15 I have has developed cracks in the top. My limited experience seems to show that they don’t really soften up with cracks. I think I like the more porous surface treatment. Any comments or advice?
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05-30-23, 09:08 AM
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Leather saddles are hard. That's how they are supposed to be.
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05-30-23, 09:52 AM
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I guess I understand “hard” too. My old Pro that I’ve had for decades is thick and hard in general, but it does seem that after 30-40 years it has yielded just a bit in the sit bone area. I understand they are all different too. I have a newer black B17 that is slowly coming around.
So the next question is, what are the advantages of the different finishes? Researching the Ideale led to a mention of the finish treatment.
I know this marking refers to the leather treatment, and doesn’t Brooks sell “pre softened” ones that are perhaps the same? I’m going to try that Ideale on my longer distance bike as the brown b17 was only good for maybe 30 miles. Of course, that could very well be me too.
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05-30-23, 10:06 AM
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Agree on the B17 Std. break in resistance, but the Champion Special is even tougher! In 2004 I picked up one in green at a good price and put it on my Torelli road bike. Couple years later, after several light proofide applications top and bottom over approx. 2,000 miles, comfort level was OK but little changed from as new. Local shop owner Bill Stevenson, (Olympia, WA) mentioned a similar experience with one he thought would never break in.
I transferred the saddle to my touring bike, continued occasional proofide treatments and it slowly broke in over the years. Recently ran out of proofide and began using Kiwi leather care top and bottom. Saddle condition now similar to a pair of old Brooks Pro's that are favorites. Here are pics from 2006 when on the Torelli and in 2017 on my touring bike. Will add a recent pic soon. I have a couple newer B17 specials which grew comfy much sooner. Don
2years + 2,000 miles in 2006
Fairly Comfy in 2017
I transferred the saddle to my touring bike, continued occasional proofide treatments and it slowly broke in over the years. Recently ran out of proofide and began using Kiwi leather care top and bottom. Saddle condition now similar to a pair of old Brooks Pro's that are favorites. Here are pics from 2006 when on the Torelli and in 2017 on my touring bike. Will add a recent pic soon. I have a couple newer B17 specials which grew comfy much sooner. Don
2years + 2,000 miles in 2006
Fairly Comfy in 2017
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05-30-23, 10:21 AM
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Sorry to hear about the Special. I just picked one up and I have not decided which bike it will go on. Mine is brown and has very little use with oversize copper rivets and copper looking rails , a very attractive saddle. It looks very nice on your touring bike.
05-30-23, 11:00 AM
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No, I got them back in the early 2000's from a shop in Olympia WA.(The Bike Stand) I was still commuting to/from work, wore reflective vest and gloves, asked their mech if they had any reflector take offs? Was a whole drawer full for anyone who wanted them, so I took a few of the largest. Think this may be my only with them as others moved on. Check with a local bicycle co-op or older shop if any near you. I have seen these in our Salem "NW Hub" sometimes, so will keep my eyes open. Don
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05-30-23, 11:22 AM
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My 2 newer Specials had fa aster break in, hopefully yours will too. Brooks are comfortable when new for me, just not so good as when soft & fit to my sit bones. There was a time when closure rumors circulated. So I bought every bargain priced I could find. No regrets
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05-30-23, 03:23 PM
#11
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from https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...l#post22114662
Make sure that your measure your 'sit bones' and ensure they fall within the cantle plate.
Make sure that the saddle width is appropriate for the style of riding you propose (wider saddles for a more upright riding style)
These are covered here and here
In 'breaking-in' a tensioned leather saddle you are aiming for it to mold to your sit bones.
The vegetable-tanned leather is soaked in water then pressure molded in the factory to the shape you buy. You are aiming to fine-tune that shape by applying pressure from your sit bones to the leather which subtly reshapes the leather at those higher pressure points.
Where the pressure is equalized, the saddle is then molded to your riding position.
The process is aided by the normal humidity found at that contact point when riding.
The thicker the leather, the longer the process is likely to take, but the longer the saddle will last. There has been a suggestion that a damp (not wet) cloth on the saddle top for about 30 min then a short 30 min ride can speed up the process of the pressure point equalization. Then let the saddle leather dry thoroughly.
If you apply conditioners to the leather to make it soft and pliable the leather will not retain the molded shape and it will quickly stretch and become unusable. Follow Brooks advice!
Make sure that the saddle width is appropriate for the style of riding you propose (wider saddles for a more upright riding style)
These are covered here and here
In 'breaking-in' a tensioned leather saddle you are aiming for it to mold to your sit bones.
The vegetable-tanned leather is soaked in water then pressure molded in the factory to the shape you buy. You are aiming to fine-tune that shape by applying pressure from your sit bones to the leather which subtly reshapes the leather at those higher pressure points.
Where the pressure is equalized, the saddle is then molded to your riding position.
The process is aided by the normal humidity found at that contact point when riding.
The thicker the leather, the longer the process is likely to take, but the longer the saddle will last. There has been a suggestion that a damp (not wet) cloth on the saddle top for about 30 min then a short 30 min ride can speed up the process of the pressure point equalization. Then let the saddle leather dry thoroughly.
If you apply conditioners to the leather to make it soft and pliable the leather will not retain the molded shape and it will quickly stretch and become unusable. Follow Brooks advice!
05-30-23, 11:43 PM
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The softer Brooks Pros I've tried are all newish ones, made with thinner leather, apparently.
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● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
06-01-23, 08:10 AM
#13
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Agree on the B17 Std. break in resistance, but the Champion Special is even tougher! In 2004 I picked up one in green at a good price and put it on my Torelli road bike. Couple years later, after several light proofide applications top and bottom over approx. 2,000 miles, comfort level was OK but little changed from as new. Local shop owner Bill Stevenson, (Olympia, WA) mentioned a similar experience with one he thought would never break in.
I transferred the saddle to my touring bike, continued occasional proofide treatments and it slowly broke in over the years. Recently ran out of proofide and began using Kiwi leather care top and bottom. Saddle condition now similar to a pair of old Brooks Pro's that are favorites. Here are pics from 2006 when on the Torelli and in 2017 on my touring bike. Will add a recent pic soon. I have a couple newer B17 specials which grew comfy much sooner. Don
2years + 2,000 miles in 2006
Fairly Comfy in 2017
I transferred the saddle to my touring bike, continued occasional proofide treatments and it slowly broke in over the years. Recently ran out of proofide and began using Kiwi leather care top and bottom. Saddle condition now similar to a pair of old Brooks Pro's that are favorites. Here are pics from 2006 when on the Torelli and in 2017 on my touring bike. Will add a recent pic soon. I have a couple newer B17 specials which grew comfy much sooner. Don
2years + 2,000 miles in 2006
Fairly Comfy in 2017
I guess I'm in the minority - B17s are comfortable for me right out of the box. I just slide around on them less over time as they break in.
06-02-23, 05:04 PM
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For whatever it's worth- I've seen the Rebour saddles- I thought it was a style or model- but didn't realize it was a treatment on the leather-
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