Raleigh Gran Sport city bike conversion
#26
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#27
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Glad to know it's UAL approved. I use the same vessel (not pictured) in the leather-trimmed cage on my International to carry my artisanally-brewed, locally-roasted, single-origin to work. I'm confident it's also certified by the Association of Caffeinated Wheelers...
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1987 Mercian Pro, 1985 Shogun 500, 197? Falcon San Remo, 1972 Peugeot PX-10, 1972 Schwinn Paramount P13-9, 1971 Peugeot PX-10, 1971 Raleigh International, 1970 Raleigh Professional Mark I
Curator/Team Mechanic: 2016 Dawes Streetfighter, 1984 Lotus Eclair, 1975 Motobecane Jubile Mixte, 1974 Raleigh Sports, 1973 Free Spirit Ted Williams, 1972 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Philips Sport
1987 Mercian Pro, 1985 Shogun 500, 197? Falcon San Remo, 1972 Peugeot PX-10, 1972 Schwinn Paramount P13-9, 1971 Peugeot PX-10, 1971 Raleigh International, 1970 Raleigh Professional Mark I
Curator/Team Mechanic: 2016 Dawes Streetfighter, 1984 Lotus Eclair, 1975 Motobecane Jubile Mixte, 1974 Raleigh Sports, 1973 Free Spirit Ted Williams, 1972 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Philips Sport
#28
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I discovered some years back that the Contigo travel mugs fit perfectly in a bottle cage.
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I've got a gaggle of Gran(d) Sport(s). The reason? When I was 15 I wanted one. I grew up on a farm, and worked all summer feeding hay to heifers to save up, but didn't have enough shekels at the end of the summer for a GS, so I setted for a Raleigh Super Course MkII. My townie friend Bob was given a Gran(d) Sport(s) for his birthday that summer.
One definition of a mid-life crisis is buying a bunch of whatever you desired but could not afford back when you were a kid.
One definition of a mid-life crisis is buying a bunch of whatever you desired but could not afford back when you were a kid.
Still, all of that time spent staring at the Raleigh catalogs did have an effect on me. No wonder that it was a bit past my 40th birthday when these beauties found their way into my hands...
Steve in Peoria
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#30
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Looking out the window from the garden st Cafe this morning.... Non Raleigh content.
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#31
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Wow, some spectacular bikes in this thread.
This is all just repeating what's already been said, but if the Stronglight BB is good (and unless it spent time submerged or something, it should be), keep it- they're strong and bulletproof! And it'd be a crime to ditch the beautiful Stronglight crankset! Throw some Kool Stop pads on the Weinmanns and they'll be about as good as any rim brake.
This is all just repeating what's already been said, but if the Stronglight BB is good (and unless it spent time submerged or something, it should be), keep it- they're strong and bulletproof! And it'd be a crime to ditch the beautiful Stronglight crankset! Throw some Kool Stop pads on the Weinmanns and they'll be about as good as any rim brake.
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#32
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@branko_76, can I ask you to expand on your question posed above? Are you concerned that the original Raleighs are being "diluted" by all the alteration to other purposes? Would you prefer that the bikes were kept in their original configurations?
I agree, there are bikes built later that, mostly from Japan, have better and more consistent brazing, finishing and are plentiful. Why not mess with those instead?
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@branko_76, can I ask you to expand on your question posed above? Are you concerned that the original Raleighs are being "diluted" by all the alteration to other purposes? Would you prefer that the bikes were kept in their original configurations?
I agree, there are bikes built later that, mostly from Japan, have better and more consistent brazing, finishing and are plentiful. Why not mess with those instead?
I agree, there are bikes built later that, mostly from Japan, have better and more consistent brazing, finishing and are plentiful. Why not mess with those instead?
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#34
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@branko_76, can I ask you to expand on your question posed above? Are you concerned that the original Raleighs are being "diluted" by all the alteration to other purposes? Would you prefer that the bikes were kept in their original configurations?
I agree, there are bikes built later that, mostly from Japan, have better and more consistent brazing, finishing and are plentiful. Why not mess with those instead?
I agree, there are bikes built later that, mostly from Japan, have better and more consistent brazing, finishing and are plentiful. Why not mess with those instead?
90% of my riding is for commuting, running errands, etc. so I don't need high performance components. The run of the mill derailleurs, brakes, etc. from the 1970's work perfectly after they have been overhauled, I don't fuss over performance specs.
I have nothing against people customizing their vintage bikes to suit their particular needs, especially those who, like me, have been riding bikes regularly for decades. We know what we want and need.
My question was to the OP who has a fine example of a vintage bike and by the nature of his questions seems relatively new to working on and possibly riding vintage bikes yet has made it clear that he is unhappy with certain aspects of the bike, not sure why.
With the exception of the handlebars, which I understand aren't for everyone, and possibly the Simplex FD (if cracked) replacing any of the other components won't necessarily make the bike better
Now I plan to convert it to a more upright riding position and change out some of the parts
Derailleurs and shifters are unappealing so they're going. What would be a good replacement?
Stronglight crank and chainring - staying (I think)
Stronglight bottom bracket - worth keeping? It looks like its in good shape. Should I clean it and reinstall or is better to replace?
Handlebars and shifters - gone. I'm thinking about something like the Granola bar from VO. Anyone opinions on those?
Weinmann 750 brakes - safe? better to replace? I'd rather not be maimed in the name of period correctness.
Seatpost (can't tell what it is but the clamp is Ideale) - worth keeping?
GB quill stem - like the look of it, I'd like to keep it, if it fits with the new handlebars
Derailleurs and shifters are unappealing so they're going. What would be a good replacement?
Stronglight crank and chainring - staying (I think)
Stronglight bottom bracket - worth keeping? It looks like its in good shape. Should I clean it and reinstall or is better to replace?
Handlebars and shifters - gone. I'm thinking about something like the Granola bar from VO. Anyone opinions on those?
Weinmann 750 brakes - safe? better to replace? I'd rather not be maimed in the name of period correctness.
Seatpost (can't tell what it is but the clamp is Ideale) - worth keeping?
GB quill stem - like the look of it, I'd like to keep it, if it fits with the new handlebars
#35
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#36
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These are great bikes, but yes, the paint job is also excellent! Mine has always been a favorite in the pack. I think it may be in part from it being a bit heavier and the relaxed geometry… it’s just really pleasant to ride.
Stronglight crank and bottom bracket was high end stuff. I’d strongly recommend keeping it. It even has a chainring guard to keep your pants leg clean. You can also remove the guard and convert to a triple.
For derailleurs, Suntour! VGT-luxe, VX-GT Cyclone… lots of great options there.
The brake calipers are tried and true. Get some kool stop pads. They are safe to use.
Brake levers, don’t throw them out. Those Carlton levers hold some value to Raleigh collectors. The hoods are indestructible.
Downtube shifters, yeah ditch them. Suntour bar ends are my go-to, even on upright bars.
Stronglight crank and bottom bracket was high end stuff. I’d strongly recommend keeping it. It even has a chainring guard to keep your pants leg clean. You can also remove the guard and convert to a triple.
For derailleurs, Suntour! VGT-luxe, VX-GT Cyclone… lots of great options there.
The brake calipers are tried and true. Get some kool stop pads. They are safe to use.
Brake levers, don’t throw them out. Those Carlton levers hold some value to Raleigh collectors. The hoods are indestructible.
Downtube shifters, yeah ditch them. Suntour bar ends are my go-to, even on upright bars.
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#38
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Well... since everyone else is posting pictures, Ill join in. This is an old photo, but not much has changed. I have had simplex, cyclone, VGT derailleurs on there. I checked last night, it's back to the VGT-luxe. The biggest change is now the bar tape looks like holy hell.
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#40
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We are particular about our fenderlines in the PNW. 33.333 with Velo Orange 45mm wide 700c Facetted Fenders
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Well... since everyone else is posting pictures, Ill join in. This is an old photo, but not much has changed. I have had simplex, cyclone, VGT derailleurs on there. I checked last night, it's back to the VGT-luxe. The biggest change is now the bar tape looks like holy hell.
I've got a spare set of white Blumel Popular fender purchased when the LBS was cleaning out their basement. Still wondering what to do with them. They do seem like they would be rather fragile. BITD, I had some aluminum Blumel "Lightweight" fenders on my Gran Sport. All I remember is that they made a lot of noise. In retrospect, I think they must have been rather nice.
Also... you get extra credit for the Huret Multito odometer! Does it have an Ant+ connection to the power meters in your pedals?
I've stuck with an intermediate point in technology, using Avocet computers on my vintage bikes. Yeah, the battery has to be replaced annually, but no software updates are needed and there's no need to pair it with anything else on the bike. I do like the speedometer function too.
Steve in Peoria
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#42
Newbie
Does the GS frame have an eyelet on the chainstay bridge? the spacing and lines looks perfect. I own a Sports, so I'm unfamiliar. Thanks!
#43
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#44
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But one can get pretty good lines on a non-butchered frame as well.
The chainstay bridge has a hole in it.
I can't remember if the chainstay bridge had a hole in it to bolt the fender up, or if I drilled it in myself.
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If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
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#45
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To get those fenderlines, cheated. I have a torch.
But one can get pretty good lines on a non-butchered frame as well.
The chainstay bridge has a hole in it.
I can't remember if the chainstay bridge had a hole in it to bolt the fender up, or if I drilled it in myself.
But one can get pretty good lines on a non-butchered frame as well.
The chainstay bridge has a hole in it.
I can't remember if the chainstay bridge had a hole in it to bolt the fender up, or if I drilled it in myself.
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#46
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It sure looks to be in good shape! I do believe 3-speeds with 27" rims were available in the 1950s. I have a later Raleigh Gran Sport which is still N.O..S. out of the box with all the original packaging ties still in place. Amazing, but true! Someday I'll get the nerve to snip the ties and do the final assembly. Should be fun to feel the freewheel lock into place for the first time!
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#47
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@d2702 I can't wait to see the build. I did a city build for my '72 Grand Sports. Here it is from today's ride, wearing 38c Soma Supple Vitesse tires for the first time.
I went mostly newer Shimano: Dura Ace centerpulls, rear derailleur, cassette/hubs, bottom bracket, Ultegra crankset, 600 shifters. Brooks supplies the contact points. I had to replace the fork with a no-name chrome model.
I went mostly newer Shimano: Dura Ace centerpulls, rear derailleur, cassette/hubs, bottom bracket, Ultegra crankset, 600 shifters. Brooks supplies the contact points. I had to replace the fork with a no-name chrome model.
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#48
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@nlerner makes a good point about how you could get weird handling with an upright bar. I can't figure out why it happens only sometimes. But front end handling is a black art, and Raleigh is known for building bikes with imprecise measurements. I have a 1973 Raleigh International. When it had upright bars, it was fine. I have a 1971 Raleigh Super Course, and when it had upright bars, the steering was very floppy. I didn't mind although it was really noticeable. I loaned the bike to a friend, and he wobbled off with difficulty controlling it. On his way home, he crashed it. So try it but understand you may not like the result.
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#49
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Excellent looking bike geluzj . If mine comes out looking anything like yours I'll be a happy rider.
What handlebars are those? I'm looking forward to trying something with more sweep. Curious to see how comfortable I find them.
As for components I've got the Stronglight all cleaned up and reassembled. The BB is ready to go back on. I snagged an early generation Suntour Cyclone for the rear derailleur. Thought I found a good candidate for the FD but the clamp is too big, serves me right for not checking it. So I'll probably hunt down a cyclone front and I like the look of your Tektro levers, I'll see if those will work with the original brakes.
What handlebars are those? I'm looking forward to trying something with more sweep. Curious to see how comfortable I find them.
As for components I've got the Stronglight all cleaned up and reassembled. The BB is ready to go back on. I snagged an early generation Suntour Cyclone for the rear derailleur. Thought I found a good candidate for the FD but the clamp is too big, serves me right for not checking it. So I'll probably hunt down a cyclone front and I like the look of your Tektro levers, I'll see if those will work with the original brakes.
#50
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@nlerner makes a good point about how you could get weird handling with an upright bar. I can't figure out why it happens only sometimes. But front end handling is a black art, and Raleigh is known for building bikes with imprecise measurements. I have a 1973 Raleigh International. When it had upright bars, it was fine. I have a 1971 Raleigh Super Course, and when it had upright bars, the steering was very floppy. I didn't mind although it was really noticeable. I loaned the bike to a friend, and he wobbled off with difficulty controlling it. On his way home, he crashed it. So try it but understand you may not like the result.