A Randonneur Build Around a 1977 Peugeot PRN10
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 399
Bikes: 2017 Sage Skyline, 2015 Co-Motion Periscope Tandem, 2012 Soma Smoothie, 2006 Kona Jake, 1986 Miyata Nine Twelve, 1977 Peugeot UO18c, 1977 Peugeot PRN10, 1974 Allegro Schweitzermeister Model 76, 1972 Hugo Rickert Spezial
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 114 Post(s)
Liked 592 Times
in
190 Posts
A Randonneur Build Around a 1977 Peugeot PRN10
I approached this build with the idea of building a proper bike for multi day brevets. Not a full on touring bike, but a rando bike with sufficient storage for clothing changes, batteries, and the other tools and gear you would bring with you on a multi day brevet like a 600k. Brevets always proceed even in rain so I made the decision to put fenders on it.
I had a 1977 PRN10 frame that was cosmetically challenged but in good structural shape. Powder coated, straightened, and new decals to get it ready for the build. I wasn’t going for historical accuracy but I did want to stay with a C&V build so the parts are generally 70s and early 80s parts. I stuck with the Stronglight 49D crank but I did use a Red Clover tripleizer to convert it to a 52/42/32 triple crank. (I also had to use a 125 mm spindle to get proper clearance.) The RD is a Shimano long cage Crane that easily handles the 14-32 range of the 5 speed freewheel. It also has sufficient throw to handle the range of the crankset. I did have to thread the Simplex dropout but no further surgery was necessary to accommodate the rear derailleur.
I did have to abandon using the 1st generation Shimano Dura Ace front derailleur I had planned on because it did not have sufficient throw to handle the chainring shifting. I found a NOS Suntour Mountech that was made for early 80s MTB cranks that worked really well, so I used that. Shifting from the Suntour bar end shifters with the front and rear derailleurs is excellent and I have a great range of gearing.
Sharp looking build that functions for it’s purpose really well. I have taken it out on a number of shake down rides and it really fits the purpose well. The straight gauge Reynolds 531 tubing is perfect for the purpose because it is more rigid than butted tubing and the weight penalty is not that bad. The slightly long wheelbase also gives it good stability.
Super happy with this build. Below is a link to a Google album with detailed photos of the build if you are curious about the details.
Bonne route!
https://photos.app.goo.gl/tvVxgEJ8iQMMyKLW7
I had a 1977 PRN10 frame that was cosmetically challenged but in good structural shape. Powder coated, straightened, and new decals to get it ready for the build. I wasn’t going for historical accuracy but I did want to stay with a C&V build so the parts are generally 70s and early 80s parts. I stuck with the Stronglight 49D crank but I did use a Red Clover tripleizer to convert it to a 52/42/32 triple crank. (I also had to use a 125 mm spindle to get proper clearance.) The RD is a Shimano long cage Crane that easily handles the 14-32 range of the 5 speed freewheel. It also has sufficient throw to handle the range of the crankset. I did have to thread the Simplex dropout but no further surgery was necessary to accommodate the rear derailleur.
I did have to abandon using the 1st generation Shimano Dura Ace front derailleur I had planned on because it did not have sufficient throw to handle the chainring shifting. I found a NOS Suntour Mountech that was made for early 80s MTB cranks that worked really well, so I used that. Shifting from the Suntour bar end shifters with the front and rear derailleurs is excellent and I have a great range of gearing.
Sharp looking build that functions for it’s purpose really well. I have taken it out on a number of shake down rides and it really fits the purpose well. The straight gauge Reynolds 531 tubing is perfect for the purpose because it is more rigid than butted tubing and the weight penalty is not that bad. The slightly long wheelbase also gives it good stability.
Super happy with this build. Below is a link to a Google album with detailed photos of the build if you are curious about the details.
Bonne route!
https://photos.app.goo.gl/tvVxgEJ8iQMMyKLW7
Last edited by Sactown_Albert; 10-09-22 at 05:44 PM. Reason: Typo
Likes For Sactown_Albert:
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Oakland, CA
Posts: 3,265
Bikes: '82 Univega Competizione, '72 Motobecane Grand Record, '83 Mercian KOM Touring, '85 Univega Alpina Uno, '76 Eisentraut Limited
Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1088 Post(s)
Liked 1,205 Times
in
701 Posts
Very nice!
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Middle Earth (aka IA)
Posts: 20,435
Bikes: A bunch of old bikes and a few new ones
Mentioned: 178 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5888 Post(s)
Liked 3,471 Times
in
2,079 Posts
Very nice build. No easy thing finding a 125 mm stronglight spindle. Yes this should be Reynolds 531 double butted main triangle and hi tensile fork and stays. That's a fine way to build a bike.
#4
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 399
Bikes: 2017 Sage Skyline, 2015 Co-Motion Periscope Tandem, 2012 Soma Smoothie, 2006 Kona Jake, 1986 Miyata Nine Twelve, 1977 Peugeot UO18c, 1977 Peugeot PRN10, 1974 Allegro Schweitzermeister Model 76, 1972 Hugo Rickert Spezial
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 114 Post(s)
Liked 592 Times
in
190 Posts
Almost certain the PRN10 is straight gauge
Looking at catalogs and brochures, I’m pretty certain the main triangle on this frame is straight gauge Reynolds 501.
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 4,704
Bikes: 82 Medici, 2011 Richard Sachs, 2011 Milwaukee Road
Mentioned: 55 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1949 Post(s)
Liked 2,010 Times
in
1,109 Posts
Nice one. Are you planning to do a SR series! I’m in the process of preparing my 77 Motobecane GR. Is your headlamp battery operated? My plan is to use my bottle dyno. And I notice only one bottle! The top tube cable clamp interferes with placing my frame pump there so I wedged a Top peak along a seat stay so I can clamp a bottle cage on the seat tube.
__________________
I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs.
I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs.
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Middle Earth (aka IA)
Posts: 20,435
Bikes: A bunch of old bikes and a few new ones
Mentioned: 178 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5888 Post(s)
Liked 3,471 Times
in
2,079 Posts
Reynolds 501 was developed in '83, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reynol...%20thicknesses.
Very nice build on your bike.
#7
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 399
Bikes: 2017 Sage Skyline, 2015 Co-Motion Periscope Tandem, 2012 Soma Smoothie, 2006 Kona Jake, 1986 Miyata Nine Twelve, 1977 Peugeot UO18c, 1977 Peugeot PRN10, 1974 Allegro Schweitzermeister Model 76, 1972 Hugo Rickert Spezial
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 114 Post(s)
Liked 592 Times
in
190 Posts
Plans for riding
Nice one. Are you planning to do a SR series! I’m in the process of preparing my 77 Motobecane GR. Is your headlamp battery operated? My plan is to use my bottle dyno. And I notice only one bottle! The top tube cable clamp interferes with placing my frame pump there so I wedged a Top peak along a seat stay so I can clamp a bottle cage on the seat tube.
#8
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 399
Bikes: 2017 Sage Skyline, 2015 Co-Motion Periscope Tandem, 2012 Soma Smoothie, 2006 Kona Jake, 1986 Miyata Nine Twelve, 1977 Peugeot UO18c, 1977 Peugeot PRN10, 1974 Allegro Schweitzermeister Model 76, 1972 Hugo Rickert Spezial
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 114 Post(s)
Liked 592 Times
in
190 Posts
You are correct. I mistyped.
Catalog link, https://www.bikeboompeugeot.com/Broc...e%20PRN10E.jpg
Reynolds 501 was developed in '83, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reynol...%20thicknesses.
Very nice build on your bike.
Reynolds 501 was developed in '83, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reynol...%20thicknesses.
Very nice build on your bike.
#9
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 399
Bikes: 2017 Sage Skyline, 2015 Co-Motion Periscope Tandem, 2012 Soma Smoothie, 2006 Kona Jake, 1986 Miyata Nine Twelve, 1977 Peugeot UO18c, 1977 Peugeot PRN10, 1974 Allegro Schweitzermeister Model 76, 1972 Hugo Rickert Spezial
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 114 Post(s)
Liked 592 Times
in
190 Posts
Bike Recyclery
#10
Bike Butcher of Portland
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 11,635
Bikes: It's complicated.
Mentioned: 1299 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4679 Post(s)
Liked 5,797 Times
in
2,282 Posts
Nicely done!
For those bemoaning the lack of a second water bottle cage, that big front handlebar bag can easily carry one. Brevets aren't non-stop events like a race, it's easy enough to stop and switch bottles, or even on the move. The few brevets I've done included eating constantly, having the bag right there is a very handy place for, say, a bag of macadamia nuts.
For those bemoaning the lack of a second water bottle cage, that big front handlebar bag can easily carry one. Brevets aren't non-stop events like a race, it's easy enough to stop and switch bottles, or even on the move. The few brevets I've done included eating constantly, having the bag right there is a very handy place for, say, a bag of macadamia nuts.
__________________
If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
Likes For gugie:
#11
Full Member
Really nice work! I've been trying to figure out a very similar build for a 77 PX10LE so this is great to see. So far I've gotten a triple stronglight 99, also 32-42-52, but I've been wracking my brain on the derailleurs. I had wanted to keep it Simplex, but maybe the Crane/Mountech is the way to go. Hmm...
I went for the NECO 127mm sealed BB, hasn't arrived yet.
I had assumed this was a 650b conversion - surprised you could fit fenders on there!
I went for the NECO 127mm sealed BB, hasn't arrived yet.
I had assumed this was a 650b conversion - surprised you could fit fenders on there!
Last edited by dukeofearl; 10-10-22 at 05:52 PM.
#13
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 399
Bikes: 2017 Sage Skyline, 2015 Co-Motion Periscope Tandem, 2012 Soma Smoothie, 2006 Kona Jake, 1986 Miyata Nine Twelve, 1977 Peugeot UO18c, 1977 Peugeot PRN10, 1974 Allegro Schweitzermeister Model 76, 1972 Hugo Rickert Spezial
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 114 Post(s)
Liked 592 Times
in
190 Posts
Suntour Mountech is inexpensive and works well
Really nice work! I've been trying to figure out a very similar build for a 77 PX10LE so this is great to see. So far I've gotten a triple stronglight 99, also 32-42-52, but I've been wracking my brain on the derailleurs. I had wanted to keep it Simplex, but maybe the Crane/Mountech is the way to go. Hmm...
I went for the NECO 127mm sealed BB, hasn't arrived yet.
I had assumed this was a 650b conversion - surprised you could fit fenders on there!
I went for the NECO 127mm sealed BB, hasn't arrived yet.
I had assumed this was a 650b conversion - surprised you could fit fenders on there!
The Crane is a superstar. I had it on a previous build so I knew what I was getting into. (Ironically it was a PX10 that I originally had it on. I took it off to install on this bike after I returned that bike to a full French setup. By not using the more aggressive grinding of an RD limit, the Simplex Prestige went back on no problem.) see pictures below.
Two things to make the Crane work on a Simplex dropout. You do have to thread the mounting hole but it doesn’t require any additional “surgery” so you can return to a Simplex RD without an issue. Critical for something as nice as a PX10 frame. The other trick is that you have to rotate the limit before you screw in the mounting bolt on the Crane. This will make the RD pulleys stand further from the freewheel when the chain is on so you can easily run up to a 34 tooth large cog. I went with a 32 since the front small chainring is a 32 so I have a 1/1 climbing ratio. You use a flathead screwdriver to rotate the limit clockwise and then you use the hex to screw the RD onto the dropout while holding the limit pin to the right side of the dropout.
Hope this helps!
Was able to return to historical configuration with no trouble since there was no aggressive surgery.
Initial set up when I was using it with a Crane long cage RD. You can see how the pulley wheels sit lower because of the pre-tensioning.
Likes For Sactown_Albert:
#14
señor miembro
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Pac NW
Posts: 6,623
Bikes: '70s - '80s Campagnolo
Mentioned: 92 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3886 Post(s)
Liked 6,480 Times
in
3,206 Posts
Likes For SurferRosa:
#15
Full Member
nice, thanks. i'll look into that mountech. and definitely consider the crane.
did you have that px10 powder coated as well? maybe i should look into that. my px10le has seen better days.
did you have that px10 powder coated as well? maybe i should look into that. my px10le has seen better days.
#16
I don't know.
Join Date: May 2003
Location: South Meriden, CT
Posts: 2,015
Bikes: '90 B'stone RB-1, '92 B'stone RB-2, '89 SuperGo Access Comp, '03 Access 69er, '23 Trek 520, '14 Ritchey Road Logic, '09 Kestrel Evoke, '08 Windsor Tourist, '17 Surly Wednesday, '89 Centurion Accordo, '15 CruX, '17 Ridley X-Night, '89 Marinoni
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 317 Post(s)
Liked 853 Times
in
446 Posts
you win just by showing up on that bike. It's beautiful.
#17
Pedal to the medal
The other trick is that you have to rotate the limit before you screw in the mounting bolt on the Crane. This will make the RD pulleys stand further from the freewheel when the chain is on so you can easily run up to a 34 tooth large cog. I went with a 32 since the front small chainring is a 32 so I have a 1/1 climbing ratio. You use a flathead screwdriver to rotate the limit clockwise and then you use the hex to screw the RD onto the dropout while holding the limit pin to the right side of the dropout.
Great, thoughtful build.
#18
RUSA #3100
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Oregon City
Posts: 836
Bikes: Yes
Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 237 Post(s)
Liked 505 Times
in
181 Posts
Not a full on touring bike, but a rando bike with sufficient storage for clothing changes, batteries, and the other tools and gear
You will see all kinds of setups at different brevets and it varies regionally as well. Randonneurs from Arizona will rarely have fenders while in the PNW they will sport not only full fenders but mud flaps that nearly touch the ground! For rides over 300 km dynamo hubs are nearly universal and two water bottles are almost mandatory unless you wear a Camelback or use other supplemental water storage. Probably the most "typical" rando bikes are those from Rene Herse which were light, fast and minimalist. This bike, as nice as the build is, is not really a randonneur to my eye.
__________________
https://utahrandonneur.wordpress.com
https://utahrandonneur.wordpress.com
Last edited by Oldairhead; 10-11-22 at 11:18 AM.
#19
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 399
Bikes: 2017 Sage Skyline, 2015 Co-Motion Periscope Tandem, 2012 Soma Smoothie, 2006 Kona Jake, 1986 Miyata Nine Twelve, 1977 Peugeot UO18c, 1977 Peugeot PRN10, 1974 Allegro Schweitzermeister Model 76, 1972 Hugo Rickert Spezial
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 114 Post(s)
Liked 592 Times
in
190 Posts
Excellent clarification
By "limit" I assume you mean the limit the derailleur mount (as this is a Crane RD with a built-in limit) and not the limit screw that effect the range of motion on the RD. It might seem obvious to some, but I want to clear up any confusion that I, or others, may have.
Great, thoughtful build.
Great, thoughtful build.
#20
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 399
Bikes: 2017 Sage Skyline, 2015 Co-Motion Periscope Tandem, 2012 Soma Smoothie, 2006 Kona Jake, 1986 Miyata Nine Twelve, 1977 Peugeot UO18c, 1977 Peugeot PRN10, 1974 Allegro Schweitzermeister Model 76, 1972 Hugo Rickert Spezial
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 114 Post(s)
Liked 592 Times
in
190 Posts
No disrespect taken.
I'm not trying to disrespect this bike in any way as it is a very nice looking machine. It seems to me though that this is more of a light tourer than a rando bike. In my experience "rando bikes" are built for speed and efficiency along with an ability to carry some extra gear. They need to be both fast and comfortable to allow a rider to cover the many miles in the time allotted. Most rando riders are minimalists and carry as little as possible during the ride, just enough to cover the conditions that they may expect to encounter, and rely on grit, tenacity and resourcefulness to get them through.
You will see all kinds of setups at different brevets and it varies regionally as well. Randonneurs from Arizona will rarely have fenders while in the PNW they will sport not only full fenders but mud flaps that nearly touch the ground! For rides over 300 km dynamo hubs are nearly universal and two water bottles are almost mandatory unless you wear a Camelback or use other supplemental water storage. Probably the most "typical" rando bikes are those from Rene Herse which were light, fast and minimalist. This bike, as nice as the build is, is not really a randonneur to my eye.
You will see all kinds of setups at different brevets and it varies regionally as well. Randonneurs from Arizona will rarely have fenders while in the PNW they will sport not only full fenders but mud flaps that nearly touch the ground! For rides over 300 km dynamo hubs are nearly universal and two water bottles are almost mandatory unless you wear a Camelback or use other supplemental water storage. Probably the most "typical" rando bikes are those from Rene Herse which were light, fast and minimalist. This bike, as nice as the build is, is not really a randonneur to my eye.
As I am getting older, my philosophy has been shifting from blasting through courses as fast as possible to enjoying the ride more. This bike is part of that shift. My son has inherited the Domane since he is in his prime “go fast” years.
#21
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 399
Bikes: 2017 Sage Skyline, 2015 Co-Motion Periscope Tandem, 2012 Soma Smoothie, 2006 Kona Jake, 1986 Miyata Nine Twelve, 1977 Peugeot UO18c, 1977 Peugeot PRN10, 1974 Allegro Schweitzermeister Model 76, 1972 Hugo Rickert Spezial
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 114 Post(s)
Liked 592 Times
in
190 Posts
PX10 is original paint
The PRN10 is powder coated and the externally applied decals are from Greg Softley at Cyclomondo.
Last edited by Sactown_Albert; 10-11-22 at 12:35 PM. Reason: Typo
Likes For Sactown_Albert:
#22
Senior Member
Very nice. I like Stronglight 49D cranks as they take TA Pro 5 vis chainrings. You could have kept it as a double with a 46- 30 combination, or something like that. Randonneur or light touring? Neither word is that precise. I first came across randonneur meaning hiker. I also think a lot of French touring bikes were labeled Randonneur, and had cantilever brakes and racks. To quote Humpty Dumpty "When I use a word, it means exactly what I want it to mean, nothing more or less."
I once heard a song about Peugeots to the tune of "I Ride an Old Paint"
"I ride an old Peugeot, I don't speak French
Yippee ki yi yi, won't you lend me a wrench...."
or maybe it was "I drive an old Peugeot..... Maybe someone could make new words for it.
I once heard a song about Peugeots to the tune of "I Ride an Old Paint"
"I ride an old Peugeot, I don't speak French
Yippee ki yi yi, won't you lend me a wrench...."
or maybe it was "I drive an old Peugeot..... Maybe someone could make new words for it.
Likes For ironwood:
#23
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 399
Bikes: 2017 Sage Skyline, 2015 Co-Motion Periscope Tandem, 2012 Soma Smoothie, 2006 Kona Jake, 1986 Miyata Nine Twelve, 1977 Peugeot UO18c, 1977 Peugeot PRN10, 1974 Allegro Schweitzermeister Model 76, 1972 Hugo Rickert Spezial
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 114 Post(s)
Liked 592 Times
in
190 Posts
Time to clear up the confusion
i initially described the tubing, incorrectly, as 501. I know better that it is 531. The correction was made but in that correction it was suggested that the 531 tubing was butted. I pointed out it was straight gauge but I should have also pointed out my initial error. Bottom line is that the PRN10 has a 531 main triangle with straight gauge Reynolds tubing.
Likes For Sactown_Albert:
#24
señor miembro
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Pac NW
Posts: 6,623
Bikes: '70s - '80s Campagnolo
Mentioned: 92 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3886 Post(s)
Liked 6,480 Times
in
3,206 Posts
#25
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 399
Bikes: 2017 Sage Skyline, 2015 Co-Motion Periscope Tandem, 2012 Soma Smoothie, 2006 Kona Jake, 1986 Miyata Nine Twelve, 1977 Peugeot UO18c, 1977 Peugeot PRN10, 1974 Allegro Schweitzermeister Model 76, 1972 Hugo Rickert Spezial
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 114 Post(s)
Liked 592 Times
in
190 Posts
Only the PX and PY had butted tubing